April 21, 2010 | Press Releases
Congratulations to Randy Seward of Orlando, FL for getting his 91’ Mustang to the Ultimate level of being a “TRUE” Street/Strip machine. In February, after driving 160 miles to the NMRA event in Bradenton, FL his record setting (3) pass average was 8.66 et at 158mph! To top it off, a month later he drove 500 miles to the NMRA event in Atlanta, and once again turned in some very nice 8.70’s. Amazingly he not only raced with the same tires he drove on, but he managed to get nearly 20mpg using our high performance 4STB (AOD) Overdrive transmission.
Here’s a portion of Randy’s personal story:
“I don’t remember exactly what it was that triggered it, but I suddenly decided I was going to build another Mustang. So I started hunting the local ads and ebay for a coupe. I eventually ended up buying a 4-cylinder Calypso green coupe with a body in decent shape for $1800 from someone on ebay. It was located a few hundred miles away in the Florida panhandle new Pensacola so my girlfriend and I took a weekend vacation, drove there to pick up the car.
The car arrived at my house in April of 2007 and the project was on. Since I was going to make some serious power and wanted something that could take the abuse, I decided to build the motor from scratch using aftermarket components. Fortunately, one of my long time friends is Ronnie Crawford in Miami, Fl. He has been building engines for 40 years and was the one who designed the first 347 stroker engine. First, he had me call Dale at Pro-Power in Ft. Lauderdale. Dale provides just about any 5.0 engine parts you might need to build some real power. He also will spec a custom camshaft for you. In my case I have decided to stay with a hydraulic stick for drivability and ease of maintenance. My original plan for the car was to make it a 9 second street-strip car that could be driven on a regular basis. I still don’t own a trailer so the car had to make it everywhere on its own.
I was originally going to reuse the C-4 from my previous car but while researching components to rebuild it, I happened upon FB Transmissions’ web site. They had a higher torque/horsepower rating for their AOD (4STB) with the electric overdrive than their C-4. I called and talked to Mike and Fred Brown and they assured me that the transmission would take everything I was planning for. Though it was heavier than the C-4, I decided to go with the durability of the higher rated transmission and the overdrive for drivability for trips on the highway. For almost three years the transmission has performed virtually flawless and has been tested far past the original power levels I expected to throw at it. It seems to be good for around 200 passes between rebuilds. The 10” PTC torque convertor has had no problems either. The transmission came with a trans-brake and has also been upgraded by FB Transmission with a 2.84 low gear and their patented Variable Stall Control (VSC) system. When hooked up to the trans-brake button, the VSC temporarily limits the fluid flow to the convertor allowing it to stall much higher. Once the trans-brake button is released, the fluid flow returns to normal and the convertor “recovers” and tightens back up to its normal setting. The low gear and VSC helps the car leave hard. Leaving at 3400 with 3lbs of boost the car has managed a 1.28 short time and there’s still a lot left. But I will have to continue to test the car to see how far it will go in this department.
The car has been tuned gradually to the current performance level. I was never in a hurry to make a “killer pass”. Every trip to the drag strip was primarily a chance to test the car at a particular power level and the car has steadily gotten faster during this process. The car has approximately 500 passes on it to date. Everyone asks how much power it makes and I really can only estimate that at the current tune it is running at, it has 1200 flywheel and 1000 rwhp. All of the tuning has been done at the drag strip and I have not been concerned with putting it on a chassis Dyno to measure the power. I am more concerned with how to make power, not how much power the car has.
Car drives very much like most fox body Mustangs. It idles smoothly, and with the overdrive and 3.25 gear, it gets almost 20 mph on the highway. The only detractions compared to most Mustangs of this style are the manual steering and brakes. With a spool, it takes some effort to maneuver the car at very slow speeds such as parking. But who’s driving slow?
I would really like to thank Jay at Real Street, Mike and Fred Brown at FB Performance Transmissions, Ronnie Crawford, Mike and Todd Braasch at TRZ for all their help and support.
My future plans for the car are to continue to engineer things and make some minor changes to make it faster. How fast is a secret right now, but I intend to keep it on the street and driving to the race track.”
April 20, 2010 | Site News
It’s that time of year again, and if you’re like us, you love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!
ONCE AGAIN, Coast High Performance is sending you and a guest to the races! Get ready see some of the most Heart-Pounding Racing action you have ever seen! Only the NMRA and NMCA can put together events like these and you can go FOR FREE!
To enter, simply click the link, fill out the form in its entirety, submit and your in! No purchase is necessary to enter or win. Winners are chosen randomly based on the state the race takes place. For example: If Jeff Smith from Kentucky enters, he could be chosen for the NMRA World Finals in Bowling Green, Kentucky.
COAST HIGH PERFORMANCE NMRA TICKETS CONTEST
You must enter to win. Those who entered last year must enter again.
Tickets hold no cash value
Winner will receive 2 Tickets
Tickets are not valid for Start Line Access / Race Entrants
Only one entry per household
March 2, 2010 | Ride of the Month
My name is Kevin, and I have been working on Mustangs for more than 20 years. I have owned 5 Fox Bodies prior to purchasing my Cobra used in November 2005.
The lure of driveability and performance is what made my decision to purchase my Terminator. Since I purchased it I have spent many hours making it exactly how I wanted it. From detailing every part of the vehicle including the undercarriage, to modifying the engine with much help from the experienced members of Modular Fords.
The current set up makes 700 RWHP and 650 RWTQ on E85. All the tuning and work was performed by myself.
2004 “Torch Red” Cobra 1 of 477
Approximately 18,000 Miles and gets driven every weekend!!!
Supercharger:
Whipple 2.3 W140AX (Gen 1) running 20 psi of boost, Reichard Racing 2.60 Upper Pulley, Stock Lower Pulley, Billetflow “Hard Anodized” 4 pc Idler Set, Stock Ported Throttle Body (Ported by me)
Fuel System:
80 lb FRPP Fuel Injectors, Twin GT Pumps, Fore Hat, dual FPDM’s,wiring upgrade, -8 line to the rails, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, Diablosport MAFIa, Metco Motorsports Carbon Fiber RAI w/ S&B 10″ filter, Runs on E85 Ethanol!
Tuning:
All the tuning is done by me with SCT’s Pro Racer Package and an SCT XCal2 handheld tuner
Exhaust:
Magnaflow Catted-X pipe, Borla 14858 cat-back. (Hand Polished by me)
Suspension:
H&R Race Springs, Stock Bilstein Shocks and Struts, Maximum Motorsports Full Length Sub-Frame Connectors, IRS Bushings and Caster Camber Plates, Billetflow IRS brackets and IRS Brace
Wheels & Tires:
(2 Piece) True Forged “Chicanes” . Fully Polished. Front: 18 X 9 w/ 265-35-18 Goodyear GS-D3’s, Rear: 18 X 10 w/ 295-35-18 Goodyear GS-D3’s.
Cooling Mods:
170 Degree Thermostat, LFP Heat Exchanger, True Forged Reservoir
Driveline:
Stock T-56 Transmission, MGW Shifter, CobraBob Shifter Gasket, Stock Clutch , Fiore Firewall Adjuster and Quadrant, Stock Driveshaft, Stock 3.55 Gears
Gauges:
SpeedHut Boost/Vacuum and A/F Gauge in a Speed Of Sound Gauge Pod.
Exterior Mods:
True Forged Hood and Side Vents, 2000 Cobra R Antenna Delete w/ Windsheild Mount Antenna.
Look forward to an upcoming article in Car Craft Magazine in the May issue on the engine called “Horsepower!”.
Special thanks to ModularFords, Lethal Performance, True Forged, SCT, Steve @ Tousley Ford, Whipple Superchargers, Metco Motorsports, Billetflow, CobraBob Shifter Gaskets, MGW, Bart Tobener, XtremeJC, Skaarew04SVT, and finally my Wife and others who have helped me achieve my dream car!
February 22, 2010 | Site News
Discuss this topic here: http://modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150862&highlight=lethal+gt500
The Lethal Performance 2010 GT500 made its way deeper into the 9’s cracking off a 9.66@146.19mph. The weather was in the 60’s with a little bit of moisture in the air. Jeremy Martorella of UPR Products pulled the car up to the line for our first run of the evening. With the 2 step set at 2100 he made the launch. First gear looked awesome and so did the 1-2 shift.. However after the shift the car broke loose and started going sideways but Jeremy’s professional race experience got the car back in the groove and down the rest of the track shifting as fast as an automatic could. As he passes the traps the board lit up with a 9.66@146.19mph. The car ran 114.14mph through the 1/8th.
This is still using a 4″ pulley which produces 21.5psi. We were using C16 with no methanol and blower only. No changes were made besides the rear end since our last outing at the track. We’re going to continue working on the suspension and once it’s dialed in we’ll turn up the boost. Our goal we’re working towards is to make an 8 second pass with the 6 speed.
Big thanks to everyone involved. UPR Products, Whipple Superchargers, Boss330 Racing, Kris@ Champion Racing Heads, Power By the Hour, Jon Lund, Revan Racing, Shelby Performance, Steeda, Autosports, BMR Fabrication, SCT, Fore Precision Works, Reische Performance, Mustang Racing Performance, Bogart, Mcleod Clutches, Moroso Performance, The Driveshaft Shop and lastly all of our families, friends and customers for all of your support.
Big Congrats to the Lethal Crew from everyone here at ModularFords! Keep up the great work guys.
January 28, 2010 | Press Releases
Cruizin Concepts, in cooperation with Foose Wheels, is unveiling an exclusive Foose wheel for the Mustang market, the Foose Legend SS. This wheel brings a classic, yet aggressive look with a five spoke deep dish style. Debuting in 3 different finishes, the Foose Legend SS would be a great fit for your car.
The Foose Legend SS will be release in stealth gloss black, black spoke and machined lip, as well as chrome. This wheel will come in 20 inch sizes fitting the 2005-2010 Mustangs, specific fitments include 2007-2010 GT500 2005, and newer V6 and GT models. All finishes are made out of 3031 aluminum alloy and are a one piece design.
These wheels are specifically designed to clear big brakes such as Brembo, making this wheel one of the few one-piece wheels to fit such brakes. Like all Foose wheels, this one will continue the 1 year finish warranty and lifetime warranty of the structure of the wheel.
These wheels are available and are able to be viewed online at www.cruizinconceptswholesale.com. Cruizin Concepts Wholesale, LLC has been a thriving Mustang headquarters since 2001 with its main office in Georgia and other warehouses in Texas and California.
Greg Walker, the general manager of Cruizin Concepts states “As one of the most reliable sources of aftermarket parts and accessories in the industry our benchmark is quality customer service and wholesale direct pricing. You will walk away knowing your car is being taken care of.”
For additional information, please visit our website at www.cruizinconceptswholesale.com or contact Mike at mike@cruizinconceptswholesale.com or sales@cruizinconcepts.com. You may also call our office at (888) 630-0655 or by fax at (770) 769-9361.
January 6, 2010 | Ride of the Month
One sweet truck accurately describes this ride! Matias, also known as MisterGadget out of Miami, built his Ford Lightning right in his garage. The project started as a dream of one of his dearest friends and fellow Lightning owner, VinnieP. Vinnie passed away before the project got underway, and for that reason, it’s affectionately dedicated to him. The build itself took nearly 3 years so I think it’s safe to say that Matias was very passionate about this project.
The truck was purchased brand new in 2003 after ordering it in late 2002. It spent the first few years of its life as the owner’s daily driver, and had the usual bolt-ons, intake, chip, pulley, exhaust, and eventually nitrous. With that combo the truck ran a best of 11.90@114 with the stock motor. That wasn’t quite enough for MisterGadget so he decided to take the performance to the next level.
Here are all the details on this Lightning. It has made 625rwhp on only 12psi, stay tuned for numbers and track times when the boost gets turned up!
Engine:
32v 5.4L built by Al Pappito
Iron Block
Manley Billet Rods
Diamond Pistons
Ford GT heads and valvetrain
Ford GT intake and Intercooler
Custom made intake hat designed by me
Moroso aluminum oil pan & transmission pan
Turbo System: Custom built turbo kit, designed by Matias, welded by a friend
Borg Warner S480 turbo with a custom 1.10 backhousing
5” downpipe, narrows down to 4” exhaust the whole way back
Turbosmart Pro-Gate 48mm wastegate
Turbosmart Race Port BOV
Turbosmart Eboost 2 boost controller
Supporting modifications:
Custom tuned by Torrie @ Unleashed Tuning with an SCT Livewire
Fore Performance fuel pump hanger with 3 Walbro 255 pumps
-10 feed line, -8 return
RPS Billet Fuel Filter
Wilson manifolds custom fuel rails
16 42-lb injectors (two per cylinder)
Aeromotive Regulator
OEM Ford GT ignition
Odyssey battery
High output alternator
Aluminum intercooler tank with Meziere pump in the bed
Racetested nitrous system
Factory tech valvebody
Dirty Dog Performance custom stall converter
Suspension/Brakes/Tires:
Front TCE Wilwood 4-piston big brake kit
Belltech front coils and rear leafs
Belltech shock extenders
Hotchkis Bilstein shocks
Hotchkis swaybars
Competition Engineering driveshaft loop
Competition Engineering endlinks
Competition engineering slide-a-link traction bars
Nitto NT555/555R’s street
Bogart racing wheels with slicks/skinnies setup for the track
Exterior/Appearance:
Bedrug
Sylvania Xenarc HID headlights
KC daylighter driving lamps behind the grill
LED taillamps
Yellow foglamps
White powercoated wheels
Custom twin 5” exhaust tips
Interior:
Bucket seats
Expedition console with custom lid
Alpine headunit, Boston Acoustics door speakers, PPI amp, two JL 10” subs
Fully dynomat covered
Autometer NV gauges
It took many people to make this project happen - special thanks to: Accelerated Race Technologies, Boss330 Racing, FastPartsNetwork, Mike Turbo, Race Parts Solutions, Spray It Racing, and VMP Tuning.
September 23, 2009 | Installations
www.killerchiller.com
505-275-COOL (2665)
___________________________
Tools and materials required:
Metric socket set and open end wrenches
Hose cutter
Concrete nips
Blue (1/2”) and black (5/8”) A/C spring lock coupler disconnects
R134A or ES12A refrigerant (3-4 cans)
2 oz. of PAG oil
Distilled water
Anti-freeze
DIY special equipment (optional):
A/C gauge set
Air vacuum pump
A/C can tapping valve
List of Materials in the Killer Chiller Kit
Figure 1 shows the different parts in the kit, and Table 1 has a complete listing of all the included components.
Figure 1. Killer Chiller Kit with all parts shown in kit.
Basic diagram of A/C system, and Killer Chiller modification
Figure 2 shows the basic Ford A/C system and components. The 03-04 Mustang cobra is slightly different, but all the major components and connections are the same.
The principal modification to the A/C system from installing the KC system is the replacement of the condenser to
evaporator tube, with a line that goes from the condenser to the KC unit, and a line from the KC unit to the evaporator (at the firewall).
The flow path of the refrigerant at the end of this installation is: Compressor – condenser – KC unit (including orifice tube) – evaporator – accumulator – compressor
The flow path of the coolant at the end of this installation is: Reservoir – pump – heat exchanger – KC unit – intercooler – reservoir
Read through the all the instructions before starting to improve your understanding of all the steps
Make sure to follow standard safety rules associated with automotive maintenance and repair
Suggestions and tips in the figures and text are denoted by an *
Installation
* If the vehicle has been lowered, or you have difficulty reaching underneath, putting the front end up on some jacks maybe helpful.
1. Evacuate the A/C system. Do not vent the refrigerant to the atmosphere, it is toxic and harmful to the environment. Most service stations with A/C equipment can do this.
2. Disconnect the battery. (safety precaution).
3. Remove the front bumper cover. Follow the service instructions provided in Figures 3 and 4. You do not need to remove the headlights, just be careful to make sure the tabs under the headlights go back into their correct locations upon re-installation. An interior trim tool would be helpful to pull the two retainers from the bottom of the cover.The pin retainers on front of the inside fenders (Figure 2) are actually screws that attach the inner wheel vendors to the front bumper cover. Pull out the inner fender to gain access to the two bumper cover nuts inside. Don’t forget to disconnect the fog lamps, the connectors face the floor.
4. Drain the intercooler fluid. Remove the coolant line going out of the heat exchanger (the line going back into the intercooler). The section of hard line that the heat exchanger hose connects to (that goes to the intercooler) is shown in Figure 5.
Figure 5. Detail of coolant return line with hose removed.
5. Remove the air filter and intake assembly. Remove the entire assembly from the throttle body forward. This
will allow access to the condenser to evaporator line that must be removed.
6. Remove the factory condenser to evaporator A/C line. Service instructions for disconnecting the spring lock
couplings are shown in Figure 6. Disconnect the low pressure suction line (at the top of the accumulator, Figure 7)
to gain easier access to the evaporator line and for routing of the new A/C hose. The low pressure suction line (w/
low side pressure port) requires the BLACK (5/8”) quick disconnect, the evaporator inlet coupling the BLUE
(1/2”) quick disconnect tool, as shown in Figures 7 and 8, respectively. Service instructions for removal of the
condenser to evaporator line are shown in Figure 9, and a detail of the peanut fitting to be removed is shown in
Figure 10.
Figure 7. Detail of low pressure suction line disconnect.
Figure 8. Detail of the evaporator inlet line (firewall) disconnect.
Figure 10. Detail of the factory peanut fitting.
7. Modify the foam bumper insert to house the KC unit. Remove material from the foam bumper insert, similar to what is shown in Figure 11. Test fit the KC unit as you remove material, the KC fittings should be below the bottom of the radiator grille opening. If desired, the foam insert can be separated from the bumper to ease modification but it must then be re-attached to the bumper (with an electric fan mounting kit, for example). If you want to use the enclosed bracket, the foam material can be completely removed below the KC unit, and the bracket attached to the bottom of the bumper (as shown in Figure 12) to support the unit. Additional material will then also have to be removed to run the hoses out of the foam insert.
Figure 11. Detail of foam bumper insert modifications for KC unit.
Figure 12. Detail of the KC unit support bracket.
8. Install coolant water line from the heat exchanger to the KC unit. Depending on whether you have the factory or aftermarket heat exchanger installed this could be located at either the driver or passenger side. For this example an aftermarket dual pass unit was installed, and both the inlet and exit lines were on the passenger side. Use the enclosed heater hose and worm hose clamps. Figure 13 shows how the lines should be attached to the KC unit and the flow path of both the coolant and refrigerant lines. Figure 14 shows a detail of the line coming from the intercooler heat exchanger which uses one of the 90° PCV fittings to avoid kinking of the line. Two fittings have been included, use as necessary. Do not cut the hose until you are sure of the length by routing the line up to the KC unit first.
Figure 13. Detail of KC unit connections and flow paths.
Figure 14. Detail of the heat exchanger coolant outlet line.
9. Install coolant line from KC exit to intercooler. Install the hose from the intercooler inlet (hard line shown in
Figure 4) to the KC unit (coolant exit, Figure 12). Again use the included heater hose line and worm hose clamps, and do not cut the line until you are sure of the length required.
* BEFORE INSTALLING ANY OF THE NEW A/C FITTINGS AND LINES MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE O-RINGS AND PUT SOME PAG OIL (OR OTHER SUITABLE LUBRICANT) ON THEM. PUTTING PAG ON THE HIGH PRESSURE HOSE FITTINGS WILL ALSO HELP INSTALL THEM ONTO THE HOSES.
10. Install A/C line from condenser to KC inlet. Install the new A/C line (#8) from the condenser (peanut fitting) to the KC unit (inlet w/ orifice tube, Figure 13). Use the included high pressure line, connect the peanut fitting and 90° metal hose fitting together, and attach the #8 hose. A detail of how the high pressure hose clamps are attached is shown in Figure 15, with additional tips for crimping the clamps. Figure 16 shows a detail of the fitting and installed onto the condenser, note that there is a slight angle to avoid the hose from resting against a screw that protrudes from the fender. Test fit the assembled fitting prior to attaching. You will need an open end 13 mm wrench to get to the nut, remember the torque spec provided in Figure 9, do not over tighten or you may strip the bolt.
*Make sure that the peanut fitting is flush with the condenser. Once the peanut fitting is properly attached at the condenser route the #8 hose to the KC unit to determine the exact length required. Attach the #8 fitting and clamps to the hose and thread the fitting and finished line onto the KC unit A/C inlet line (Figure 13).
Figure 15. Detail of how the clamps attach the high pressure hose to the fittings.
Figure 16. Detail of the new A/C line attached to the condenser.
11. Install the new A/C line from the evaporator (firewall) to the KC unit exit. Use the supplied coupling and
thread the hose fitting and clamped #10 hose onto the coupling (Figure 17). The installed fitting (at the firewall) is
shown in Figure 18. Run the hose underneath the low pressure metal suction line, and if desired insulate all or part
of the line as shown in Figure 19. This will help keep the refrigerant going to the evaporator (and the cab) cooler. Similar to the condenser line, do not cut the hose until it has been routed to the KC unit. Attach the #10 fitting and clamps to the hose and thread onto the KC unit exit (Figure 13). The completed zip-tied lines (underneath the vehicle) are shown in Figure 20. Your installation may be different depending on heat exchanger and routing of lines.
Figure 17. Detail of the completed A/C coupling to be connected to the evaporator inlet (firewall).
Figure 18. Detail of the installed fitting and line to the evaporator inlet.
Figure 19. Detail of installed #10 line from KC exit.
Figure 20. Detail of final coolant and A/C line configuration with the KC installed.
12. Re-attach the low pressure suction line spring coupling. Once the KC to evaporator line is installed, re-attach
the low pressure line coupling to the accumulator. Double check all the coolant and A/C line connections and fittings before proceeding.
13. Re-connect the battery.
14. Refill intercooler reservoir. Use both anti-freeze and water due to the improved cooling, and insure that all air
pockets have been removed. The intercooler pump can be jumpered at the relay to run without the engine on.
Should the pump cavitate due to air, remove the upper hose coming from the intercooler at the reservoir and blow
strongly into the line, re-start the pump and continue to add fluid until the system is full. Depending on the model
of heat exchanger a stop cock can also be opened to remove additional air in the heat exchanger. Check for any
coolant leaks.
15. Reinstall the intake and air filter assembly. Remember to plug in the MAF and IAT1 sensors.
16. Vacuum the A/C system to remove moisture (low pressure side). An inexpensive air vacuum pump can be used if the proper capacity air compressor is available. This unit is shown in Figure 21. If R-134A is used insure at least 25 in-Hg of vacuum for 30-45 minutes prior to filling (depending on humidity). If ES-12A is used, a shorter time maybe sufficient since ES-12A is unaffected. A typical vacuum setup is shown in Figure 22 with an A/C gauge set also purchased at Harbor Freight.
Figure 21. Inexpensive air vacuum pump.
Figure 22. Example setup for pulling vacuum on the A/C.
17. Re-charge the A/C. Follow standard A/C service procedures for re-filling the system and checking the low and
high side pressures. Add in 2 oz. of PAG oil to the system, before adding refrigerant. Depending on the refrigerant 3-4 cans are needed to refill the system. Use A/C service charge pressure recommendations. One simple formula for determining the high side pressure is:
Average Ambient Temperature (F) X 2.3 = High Side Pressure (psi)
18. Re-attach the front bumper cover. Once the system is operational, and no leaks have been found, re-attach the
front bumper cover following the procedures shown in Figures 2 and 3 in reverse.
Depending on the vehicle modifications, ambient conditions, refrigerant and refrigerant pressure levels, the KC (at idle), should be able to reduce the ambient coolant temperatures down to mid-40’s (F) in about 4-5 minutes of operation. Installation of a temperature sensor in the coolant reservoir will provide an average temperature of the coolant. Placement of a temperature sensor into the KC coolant exit line (near the KC unit) will provide temperature of the coolant going into the intercooler.
An example of the results are shown in Figure 23. The A/C (w/ KC installed) is turned on with the car (cold). The ambient and coolant temperature (Figure 22a) is 81 F. After approximately 3-3.5 minutes of idling the coolant temperature is 50 F (Figure 22b). After about 5 minutes of idling the coolant temperature reaches 44 F (Figure 22c). The vent temperature (as measured with an IR probe) is 40 F.
Figure 23. Coolant temperature at idle for several times after startup.
August 11, 2009 | Press Releases
1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS OEM Fit Brake Hose Kits
After over a year of development J&M Products is proud to the release our new direct OEM fit D.O.T. certified Teflon lined brake hoses for the IRS Ford Mustang Cobra. These brake hose assemblies use true OEM style direct replacement non-universal fittings along with proper center support brackets and fittings. Expansion of stock rubber hoses causes a spongy brake pedal feel and loss of initial braking force. Installation of our Teflon-lined stainless steel hose assemblies will give your car a firmer pedal, quicker braking response, and easier brake modulation. Every hose is tested to 3000 psi to guarantee a leak free hose assembly. Best of all these are made by J&M Products right here in the USA.
Benefits:
- Quicker brake response.
- Better brake modulation.
- The ONLY direct OEM fit hoses available.
- Every hose is pressure tested to 3000 psi.
- Every hose is stamped with our registered US Dept. of Trans. number.
Part # Description List
22517 1999-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra $75.
4422510R 1999-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra With IRS Rear Only $147.
8222540 1999-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra With IRS Fr. & Rear $216.26
www.HOTPART.com
805-239-1558
August 3, 2009 | Press Releases
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Media Contact:
Jeff Dusing
610.240.5121
Jeff.dusing@americanmuscle.com
What makes a great car show? Cars? Girls? Giveaways?
The AmericanMuscle.com Car Show it all, plus a $9,000+ to Homes for Our Troops Charity
MALVERN, PA (07/20/09)—Most car shows involve an hour of frantic polishing, followed by an hour of aimlessly walking the lot to check out the competition, and then finally, a good nap. But with 150 of the sweetest ‘Stangs ever to hit the road stationed door to door and bumper to bumper on every corner of the lot surrounded by more than a dozen top Mustang brands, each ready and eager to talk parts and performance, the 1st Annual AmericanMuscle Car Show and Charity Event was already set to be something different. Then add in a circling helicopter taking photos from 1,000 feet, a free dyno running from dawn ‘til dusk, free food and drink for all registered cars, more free stuff than you can carry in a mid-size sports coupe, and a slew of über-hot AmericanMuscle Girls strolling the lot, showing off their own fox bodies. Now that’s a car show.
Of course the central point of the July 19th event was the Best in Show competition. AmericanMuscle judges walked the lot all day long meticulously examining every show candidate. In the end, it was Tony Massimano’s fully-custom ’69 Mach 1 that took top prize. Here’s a list of the rest of the winners:
· Rick Bauman: President’s Choice Award: Torch Red ’05 GT
· Tommy Lee: Best ’05 to 2010 Mustang: Black ’06 GT Convertible
· Mike Baer: Best ’99 to ’04 Mustang: ’04 MystiChrome Cobra Convertible
· Donnie Huth: Best ’94 to ’98 Mustang: ’97 Cobra
· Rick Nagle: Best ’79 to ’93 Mustang: ’93 GT
In a day full of highlights, more than 1,000 showed up to walk and talk Mustangs, and show their support for Homes for Our Troops, a charity that buys or builds homes for disabled veterans. The goal for the day was to raise $5,000 for those that given more than we could ask while defending our freedom. But, when the day was done, and the money was counted, AmericanMuscle wrote a check for $8015 to its favorite charity. Adding to this number, the Garden State Region Mustang Club made an additional donation of $850, and an anonymous AmericanMuscle supplier also kicked in a check for $500, bringing the total donation to $9,365—a good day indeed.
For more information, plus lots of photos and video on the 1st Annual AmericanMuscle Car Show and Charity Event please visit: http://blog.americanmuscle.com/
Founded in 2003, AmericanMuscle.com has raced to the top of the market as a leading online Mustang parts retailer with more than 500,000 customers to date. A true innovator in e-commerce, AmericanMuscle.com employs more than 80 staff at its 65,000 square foot facility in Malvern, PA, approximately 20 miles west of Philadelphia. www.americanmuscle.com
June 29, 2009 | Reviews
Techco International has just released their 3.0L twin screw supercharger kit for the S197 Mustangs. Being comprised of several of the engineers that brought us the Saleen blower, Techco has the talent to deliver a powerful blower. How does it measure up?
Our test car is a 2006 Mustang GT (Auto) previously equipped with the Saleen supercharger kit, as sold by JDM Engineering. Prior to the Techco installation our test car was put back to stock minus American Racing 1 5/8” headers, catted X-pipe, Zoomer’s axleback, and GT500 fuel pumps. The installation of the Techco blower follows very closely with the other twin screw kits, so our review will concentrate on the differences of the install, and the performance of the blower.
Continue reading »
