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Blew my first FRP sensor.....DANG!

39K views 94 replies 35 participants last post by  quadcammer 
#1 ·
Well, I just got done tuning on this car using SCT's new Pro Racer package and boy this thing pulls like no tomorrow. So, I was on my way home from the office tonight and getting on the highway. I made a 2nd gear pull to what I hoped to be 6500rpm but while watching the wideband sensor to verify air/fuel, I hit the 7000rpm rev limiter. Next thing I know, the car just about died with enough momentum to coast from the fast lane to the breakdown lane on the right side. I popped the hood, and yanked the vacuum line off the FRP sensor. I then key cycled the ignition and a geyser of fuel shot out of the vacuum port about 4 feet long.

I had to call my pregnant wife to come get me and take me home so I could pick up my tools, a lantern, and a spare FRP sensor that I keep on hand for just this type of emergency. As we were pulling back up to the car about 45minutes later, a MA state trooper pulls up with the intentions of towing the car. I begged him to let me try to fix it and promised him that it would only take 5 minutes. Five minutes later, we were all on the road.

What do most of the FRP sensor failures have in common? Pulling hard and hitting the rev limiter. Things that make you go....hmnnnnnn....

MJ
 
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#52 ·
Let me get this straight. It's one thing to smell your own dipstick but you are gonna have another guy smell it?? Whatever floats your boat man...lol. If there is gas in there....99% chance your FRPS has failed in some way. You can also pull the vacuum line of the sensor and check for gas in there. My buddies blew so bad that he had fuel dripping outta his TB!
 
#54 ·
stangin said:
Thanks guys.. I was going to work with Brian at Apten, but he is gone now.
I guess Apten is now in Cincinnati although the milling work on the Eaton is still being done in St. Louis. Apten was bought or merged with MD Performance or something like that. They told me Brian was moving to the Orlando area to work with SCT on some projects. I don't know if he is working for them or just with them. Don't really know the facts but that is what I heard.
 
#55 ·
sambandit said:
Let me get this straight. It's one thing to smell your own dipstick but you are gonna have another guy smell it?? Whatever floats your boat man...lol. If there is gas in there....99% chance your FRPS has failed in some way. You can also pull the vacuum line of the sensor and check for gas in there. My buddies blew so bad that he had fuel dripping outta his TB!
Yeah when mine failed, at the time we thought it was something else. Fuel was pouring out of the T\B and theres even a fuel stain on the bottom of my K&N filter.... that really sucks

This time around I'll know to keep a spare sensor in the glove box.
 
#56 ·
KOTH said:
I guess Apten is now in Cincinnati although the milling work on the Eaton is still being done in St. Louis. Apten was bought or merged with MD Performance or something like that. They told me Brian was moving to the Orlando area to work with SCT on some projects. I don't know if he is working for them or just with them. Don't really know the facts but that is what I heard.
Who is MD performance? Modular Depot?
I thought they might hook up with Paul's. I heard Paul's is adding a huge machine shop and are going to specialize in doing mod motors.
 
#58 ·
dbennet said:
What is a "FRPS"? How can you tell if it failed or not? Where can you buy a spare?:confused:

Please accuse me, I'm a newbie.

Thanks
Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor

It's a little back square on the front of your drivers side fuel rail.

Look at the picture a few posts above this one.

You get them from ford.

Someone has the correct part # cause theres a couple of them.
 
#59 ·
Is this right?

As you can see there is a white "T" behind the vacuum rubber tube? This is not in factory pic. I tried to trace the two lines and one seems to be going to drivers side firewall. Do you think my wrench connected the Autometer A/F here? Installed the "T"? All my problems started after Apten was installed along with A piller and gauges. As I mentioned above...RWHP went down after Apten install and on 3rd dyno car went lean big time.

Or, am I seeing black helicopters and boogie men?
 

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#61 ·
Jerry said:
I'm in the SCT membership too yo! :cool: :D
Sorry Jerry.. I have been a member of this board a while, but have not posted much until recently.. forgive me :)
 
#62 ·
Bald,
The second line may be connected to an aftermarket boost gauge or something similar. Do you have one of them? That line has vacuum/boost only.

Dana
 
#63 ·
Dana.....New A pillar has

3 gauges installed at same time as Apten (story above). 1.Boost 2. Fuel Press 3. Water temp

Was there a better place for the tap? Could this have led to poor dynos, loss of HP, extreem lean out? Do I address my wrench about this?

Just had wife sniff dip stick without knowing why..."smells like gasoline".

BINGO
 
#64 ·
As long as the line is not leaking, it should be fine there. I am pretty sure it is being used for the boost gauge.
The most common place people hook them up at is behind the glove box. Open the glove box and tip the box forward by bending the clips. You'll see a vacuum line there. That is the most common point. Others have just cut into the line right under the dashboard. That works too.

I really don't think the location of the connection is related to the poor dyno performance, unless it (the line) is leaking somewhere. If there was a vacuum/pressure leak, that could cause the FRPS to produce an incorrect reading and screw up the signal to the PCM and any commands based on the fuel rail pressure data.
If you're not sure, have the tech locate it farther away from the sensor, say under the dash or by the glove compartment just to be certain.
I assume that with the gas smell, you will be changing the oil? And the FRPS? Good idea.

Dana
 
#65 · (Edited)
I would not get on it for a while and would change the oil again at 500 miles just to be sure.. I have read threads about the gas in the oil destroying engines. I installed one of those clear glass fuel filters on the vacuum line right at the sensor so I could see any gas if it ever leaked gas and gave no symptoms - easy to see, without having to pull the vacuum line everytime I open the hood.
 
#66 ·
#67 ·
3rd revision

MCHIP....number is correct 3R3Z-9F972-AA.....and is 3rd revision per local Ford parts dude. He went to parts shelf and grabbed it so quick it was as if it was a common replacement. Said they keep a half dozen at all times. Hmmmmm.
As soon as the sun comes up goes on this AM then idle over to closest rack and dump gassy oil.
 
#68 ·
BALDSNAKE said:
MCHIP....number is correct 3R3Z-9F972-AA.....and is 3rd revision per local Ford parts dude. He went to parts shelf and grabbed it so quick it was as if it was a common replacement. Said they keep a half dozen at all times. Hmmmmm.
As soon as the sun comes up goes on this AM then idle over to closest rack and dump gassy oil.
does your part dude have any info on the frps part# 3R3E-9F972-AA as if it's a newly revised part# or is a predecessor to the 3R3Z.
 
#70 ·
BALDSNAKE said:
Being in the auto parts biz sorta (large variety....big rigs) I can tell you that newly revized part nos. generaly come out with a higher number or letter....i.e., Z comes after E.
i was thinking the same thing but need to obtain a real confirmation from someone who has access to ford parts info.
 
#72 ·
I have had 3 of these to fail on my car.just went to the dealer and picked up a new one part # is 3R3E-9F972-AA.guess what my brother came by in his 03 gt and he has the same part # on his sensor.we need to find out if the part #3R3Z-9F972-AA is any different.this part failure could cost us all lots of promblems.think if the bladder just leaks a little and it does this for long periods of time. there will be failure in the bottom ends of your motor.please lets all try to work together on this and fix it.
 
#74 ·
I took the failed one friday and changed it out with the ford dealer.iam going to call tomorrow and get the part # on it he should still have it.i think it may be the new part # 3R3E-9F972-AA it came off my ann 03 and it was # 7749 of 8394 built on 6-24-03 my blk 03 is #803 built 6-21-02 it is the one that keeps failing.the last one that failed i had taken off the ann car to get the blk one home.so i will post tomorrow with the last part # that failed.
 
#75 ·
Pumped 03 said:
I took the failed one friday and changed it out with the ford dealer.iam going to call tomorrow and get the part # on it he should still have it.i think it may be the new part # 3R3E-9F972-AA it came off my ann 03 and it was # 7749 of 8394 built on 6-24-03 my blk 03 is #803 built 6-21-02 it is the one that keeps failing.the last one that failed i had taken off the ann car to get the blk one home.so i will post tomorrow with the last part # that failed.
Hey pumped, if you dont mind me asking.. do you bounce of the rev limiter often? Do you drive the car really hard? Just trying to see if there is a consitancy in what people do that have them fail a lot..
 
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