Here are some questions NEWB's ask that are answered by me, for you.
How fast do you want to go?
If you want to run 10.50's or better it is possible to achieve that for less than 5K. You would need: upper pulley ($125), lower pulley ($350), cai ($150), mid pipe (catted $400, not catted $200), catback ($300-700), ported blower ($500), nitrous kit ($600), custom tuning ($500), 60# injectors ($400), SCT 2400 maf ($250), KB boost a pump ($250), diff brace ($150), slicks and skinnies ($1000). Total: $4775. This setup is good for 500-520rwhp and 500-540rwtq without nitrous on pump gas and 600/700 + on the juice. I would also suggest to add in a larger intercooler reservoir ($200-300) and/or a larger heat exchanger ($300-400) to help combat heatsoak. The best time for this setup n/a is 10.89@127mph from a guy named broke7 aka Allen.
The fastest time that I've seen from somebody with this setup with n20 is
10.VENOMOUS03COBRA-1.51 10.30 @ 134.74 CFULDENP. There are plenty of other guys that are running 10.80 or better on similar setups; venomous can drive the funk out of his car. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/w...1B371025D8.htm
He is achieving that on a 60 shot, some people are running 150 shots with ported blowers, but can't drive like he can.
The fastest person with the same mods as John, but has a solid axle is
4. 03flamedcobra-------1.45 10.02 @ 139.59 CFUTDSERNP He is also running a bigger shot of N20.
Now if you want to have the power on tap all the time you can go with a twin screw blower (whipple or kenne bell) (+ $3100, but you wont need the ported blower (-$500) or the upper pulley (-$125). I'd keep the n20 for a rainy day.
These blowers are good for 19psi on 93 pump gas and ~620-630rwhp 570-590rwtq. on 91 octane 17psi is max and is around 580-590rwhp and 530-550rwtq. With race gas 680+ rwhp is possible without worry. 23 + psi.
OR you can go with a single or twin
turbo kit that is in market. I like the hellion single
turbo kit. The kit starts at $6370 and when certain options are added it can approach $7500. With the
turbo kit you wont need: upper pulley (-$125), lower pulley (-$350), cai (-$150), ported blower (-$500), nitrous kit (-$600). The twin
turbo kit's cost more money, but seem to have issues with quality control. Turbohorsepower, and HP are the twin setup manufacturers. Another great thing about the hellion kit is that you can order it today and have it all within 2 weeks. I have yet to see one complaint about the quality of the hellion kit. The
turbo setup is good for 650-710rwhp on pump gas (13-16psi) and 800-900+ rwhp on race gas (22+ psi) The horsepower output is dependent on what other supporting mods and added mods (head and cam work) are on the
car.
Quote:
what about the programming- stand alone???
the
factory eecv computer is great to tune on. There is no need to change to a stand alone unless you want to run 1300 +rwhp. I don't think any body on that 1/4 mile list is running a stand alone. We have a couple guys over 1000rwhp (on built motors w/
turbo) running the
factory eecv computer.
Quote:
fuel system
the stock fuel system is good for ~500rwhp. at that point you need to add a kenne bell boost a pump with a wiring upgrade ($250). At 550rwhp I'd add 60# injectors ($400) which is good until about 670rwhp. At that point you need to upgrade the fuel pumps to dual pumps either from the ford GT or Lincoln aviator, also upgrading the fuel lines, fuel rails and fpdm ($900). This setup here is good for ~800rwhp with 60# injectors and 920rwhp on 75# injectors (+ $150 over the 60's). If you want to achieve the safest 900+ rwhp, I would switch to a return style fuel system ($1500-2000) with the 75's or 96# injectors.
Now if it were my
car and I was shooting for 800+ rwhp I'd definitely consider upgrading the pistons...which can be done for as little as $1000 for pistons and $1000 for balance and assembly of the block. The right way to do it is to have an entire short block built with new block, rods, crank and pistons. ($4000-5000) While doing that I'd switch to a 96-98 cobra teskid block which is aluminum. That block has been proven at over 1850rwhp in several 6 second race mustangs with block girdles. It also shaves 70# off the nose of the
car.
Also, lets not forget to upgrade the clutch setup. The stock clutch is very stout. I have been running mine for 23K miles for which a good portion of it was over 600rwhp and it has yet to slip once. I have been sitting on a centerforce dfx clutch and aluminum flywheel for a while waiting for my stocker to take a dump. A clutch setup with the disc, flywheel, pressure plate, tob, and a upgraded 26 spline input shaft is ~$1000. The trans in these cars are very stout (same as a viper)...they rarely have any failures even at some crazy power levels.
what about the rear end?
Drive Shaft Shop (DSS) offers level 5 half shafts for the cobra rear ($1500). They rate them to 900rwhp. If all you want to do is drag then a switch to a built solid axle from a mach 1 or GT is the best move ($3K when all is said and done), this allows much harder launching with less chance of failure, it also drops ~100# from the rear of the
car.
I think this post covers most all of it. I am free to answer any questions that you've got. Oh and I never did mention messing with the
cams or the heads...they are very good from the
factory and if you enjoy maintaining a sleeper sound (IE no cam lope) there is no need to do anything to them. A fully ported set of heads with an aggressive cam will be + 70rwhp.
*edit*
here is some good info on suspension:
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/r...ons-22007.html
here is some good info on cooling:
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...ool-28581.html
General answers for 03-04 cobra (mods, cost and performance)
Linear Mode
