Kincaid Performance / Killer Chiller Installation for 99-04 Mustang - Modular Fords

  • Kincaid Performance / Killer Chiller Installation for 99-04 Mustang
    505-275-COOL (2665)
    Tools and materials required:
    Metric socket set and open end wrenches
    Hose cutter
    Concrete nips
    Blue (1/2”) and black (5/8”) A/C spring lock coupler disconnects
    R134A or ES12A refrigerant (3-4 cans)
    2 oz. of PAG oil
    Distilled water
    DIY special equipment (optional):
    A/C gauge set
    Air vacuum pump
    A/C can tapping valve
    List of Materials in the Killer Chiller Kit
    Figure 1 shows the different parts in the kit, and Table 1 has a complete listing of all the included components.

    Figure 1. Killer Chiller Kit with all parts shown in kit.

    Basic diagram of A/C system, and Killer Chiller modification
    Figure 2 shows the basic Ford A/C system and components. The 03-04 Mustang cobra is slightly different, but all the major components and connections are the same.

    The principal modification to the A/C system from installing the KC system is the replacement of the condenser to
    evaporator tube, with a line that goes from the condenser to the KC unit, and a line from the KC unit to the evaporator (at the firewall).
    The flow path of the refrigerant at the end of this installation is: Compressor – condenser – KC unit (including orifice tube) – evaporator – accumulator – compressor
    The flow path of the coolant at the end of this installation is: Reservoir – pump – heat exchanger – KC unit – intercooler – reservoir
    Read through the all the instructions before starting to improve your understanding of all the steps
    Make sure to follow standard safety rules associated with automotive maintenance and repair
    Suggestions and tips in the figures and text are denoted by an *

    * If the vehicle has been lowered, or you have difficulty reaching underneath, putting the front end up on some jacks maybe helpful.
    1. Evacuate the A/C system. Do not vent the refrigerant to the atmosphere, it is toxic and harmful to the environment. Most service stations with A/C equipment can do this.
    2. Disconnect the battery. (safety precaution).
    3. Remove the front bumper cover. Follow the service instructions provided in Figures 3 and 4. You do not need to remove the headlights, just be careful to make sure the tabs under the headlights go back into their correct locations upon re-installation. An interior trim tool would be helpful to pull the two retainers from the bottom of the cover.The pin retainers on front of the inside fenders (Figure 2) are actually screws that attach the inner wheel vendors to the front bumper cover. Pull out the inner fender to gain access to the two bumper cover nuts inside. Don’t forget to disconnect the fog lamps, the connectors face the floor.

    4. Drain the intercooler fluid. Remove the coolant line going out of the heat exchanger (the line going back into the intercooler). The section of hard line that the heat exchanger hose connects to (that goes to the intercooler) is shown in Figure 5.

    Figure 5. Detail of coolant return line with hose removed.
    5. Remove the air filter and intake assembly. Remove the entire assembly from the throttle body forward. This
    will allow access to the condenser to evaporator line that must be removed.
    6. Remove the factory condenser to evaporator A/C line. Service instructions for disconnecting the spring lock
    couplings are shown in Figure 6. Disconnect the low pressure suction line (at the top of the accumulator, Figure 7)
    to gain easier access to the evaporator line and for routing of the new A/C hose. The low pressure suction line (w/
    low side pressure port) requires the BLACK (5/8”) quick disconnect, the evaporator inlet coupling the BLUE
    (1/2”) quick disconnect tool, as shown in Figures 7 and 8, respectively. Service instructions for removal of the
    condenser to evaporator line are shown in Figure 9, and a detail of the peanut fitting to be removed is shown in
    Figure 10.

    Figure 7. Detail of low pressure suction line disconnect.

    Figure 8. Detail of the evaporator inlet line (firewall) disconnect.

    Figure 10. Detail of the factory peanut fitting.
    7. Modify the foam bumper insert to house the KC unit. Remove material from the foam bumper insert, similar to what is shown in Figure 11. Test fit the KC unit as you remove material, the KC fittings should be below the bottom of the radiator grille opening. If desired, the foam insert can be separated from the bumper to ease modification but it must then be re-attached to the bumper (with an electric fan mounting kit, for example). If you want to use the enclosed bracket, the foam material can be completely removed below the KC unit, and the bracket attached to the bottom of the bumper (as shown in Figure 12) to support the unit. Additional material will then also have to be removed to run the hoses out of the foam insert.

    Figure 11. Detail of foam bumper insert modifications for KC unit.

    Figure 12. Detail of the KC unit support bracket.
    8. Install coolant water line from the heat exchanger to the KC unit. Depending on whether you have the factory or aftermarket heat exchanger installed this could be located at either the driver or passenger side. For this example an aftermarket dual pass unit was installed, and both the inlet and exit lines were on the passenger side. Use the enclosed heater hose and worm hose clamps. Figure 13 shows how the lines should be attached to the KC unit and the flow path of both the coolant and refrigerant lines. Figure 14 shows a detail of the line coming from the intercooler heat exchanger which uses one of the 90° PCV fittings to avoid kinking of the line. Two fittings have been included, use as necessary. Do not cut the hose until you are sure of the length by routing the line up to the KC unit first.

    Figure 13. Detail of KC unit connections and flow paths.

    Figure 14. Detail of the heat exchanger coolant outlet line.
    9. Install coolant line from KC exit to intercooler. Install the hose from the intercooler inlet (hard line shown in
    Figure 4) to the KC unit (coolant exit, Figure 12). Again use the included heater hose line and worm hose clamps, and do not cut the line until you are sure of the length required.
    10. Install A/C line from condenser to KC inlet. Install the new A/C line (#8) from the condenser (peanut fitting) to the KC unit (inlet w/ orifice tube, Figure 13). Use the included high pressure line, connect the peanut fitting and 90° metal hose fitting together, and attach the #8 hose. A detail of how the high pressure hose clamps are attached is shown in Figure 15, with additional tips for crimping the clamps. Figure 16 shows a detail of the fitting and installed onto the condenser, note that there is a slight angle to avoid the hose from resting against a screw that protrudes from the fender. Test fit the assembled fitting prior to attaching. You will need an open end 13 mm wrench to get to the nut, remember the torque spec provided in Figure 9, do not over tighten or you may strip the bolt.
    *Make sure that the peanut fitting is flush with the condenser. Once the peanut fitting is properly attached at the condenser route the #8 hose to the KC unit to determine the exact length required. Attach the #8 fitting and clamps to the hose and thread the fitting and finished line onto the KC unit A/C inlet line (Figure 13).

    Figure 15. Detail of how the clamps attach the high pressure hose to the fittings.

    Figure 16. Detail of the new A/C line attached to the condenser.
    11. Install the new A/C line from the evaporator (firewall) to the KC unit exit. Use the supplied coupling and
    thread the hose fitting and clamped #10 hose onto the coupling (Figure 17). The installed fitting (at the firewall) is
    shown in Figure 18. Run the hose underneath the low pressure metal suction line, and if desired insulate all or part
    of the line as shown in Figure 19. This will help keep the refrigerant going to the evaporator (and the cab) cooler. Similar to the condenser line, do not cut the hose until it has been routed to the KC unit. Attach the #10 fitting and clamps to the hose and thread onto the KC unit exit (Figure 13). The completed zip-tied lines (underneath the vehicle) are shown in Figure 20. Your installation may be different depending on heat exchanger and routing of lines.

    Figure 17. Detail of the completed A/C coupling to be connected to the evaporator inlet (firewall).

    Figure 18. Detail of the installed fitting and line to the evaporator inlet.

    Figure 19. Detail of installed #10 line from KC exit.

    Figure 20. Detail of final coolant and A/C line configuration with the KC installed.
    12. Re-attach the low pressure suction line spring coupling. Once the KC to evaporator line is installed, re-attach
    the low pressure line coupling to the accumulator. Double check all the coolant and A/C line connections and fittings before proceeding.
    13. Re-connect the battery.
    14. Refill intercooler reservoir. Use both anti-freeze and water due to the improved cooling, and insure that all air
    pockets have been removed. The intercooler pump can be jumpered at the relay to run without the engine on.
    Should the pump cavitate due to air, remove the upper hose coming from the intercooler at the reservoir and blow
    strongly into the line, re-start the pump and continue to add fluid until the system is full. Depending on the model
    of heat exchanger a stop cock can also be opened to remove additional air in the heat exchanger. Check for any
    coolant leaks.
    15. Reinstall the intake and air filter assembly. Remember to plug in the MAF and IAT1 sensors.
    16. Vacuum the A/C system to remove moisture (low pressure side). An inexpensive air vacuum pump can be used if the proper capacity air compressor is available. This unit is shown in Figure 21. If R-134A is used insure at least 25 in-Hg of vacuum for 30-45 minutes prior to filling (depending on humidity). If ES-12A is used, a shorter time maybe sufficient since ES-12A is unaffected. A typical vacuum setup is shown in Figure 22 with an A/C gauge set also purchased at Harbor Freight.

    Figure 21. Inexpensive air vacuum pump.

    Figure 22. Example setup for pulling vacuum on the A/C.
    17. Re-charge the A/C. Follow standard A/C service procedures for re-filling the system and checking the low and
    high side pressures. Add in 2 oz. of PAG oil to the system, before adding refrigerant. Depending on the refrigerant 3-4 cans are needed to refill the system. Use A/C service charge pressure recommendations. One simple formula for determining the high side pressure is:
    Average Ambient Temperature (F) X 2.3 = High Side Pressure (psi)
    18. Re-attach the front bumper cover. Once the system is operational, and no leaks have been found, re-attach the
    front bumper cover following the procedures shown in Figures 2 and 3 in reverse.
    Depending on the vehicle modifications, ambient conditions, refrigerant and refrigerant pressure levels, the KC (at idle), should be able to reduce the ambient coolant temperatures down to mid-40’s (F) in about 4-5 minutes of operation. Installation of a temperature sensor in the coolant reservoir will provide an average temperature of the coolant. Placement of a temperature sensor into the KC coolant exit line (near the KC unit) will provide temperature of the coolant going into the intercooler.
    An example of the results are shown in Figure 23. The A/C (w/ KC installed) is turned on with the car (cold). The ambient and coolant temperature (Figure 22a) is 81 F. After approximately 3-3.5 minutes of idling the coolant temperature is 50 F (Figure 22b). After about 5 minutes of idling the coolant temperature reaches 44 F (Figure 22c). The vent temperature (as measured with an IR probe) is 40 F.

    Figure 23. Coolant temperature at idle for several times after startup.
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