Installing a 4R70W into a 03-04 Mustang Cobra - Modular Fords

  • Installing a 4R70W into a 03-04 Mustang Cobra

    Article by: Dave King
    I was inspired to write this article because of the overwhelming help and support I got from fellow readers of to do this project.
    Before I decided on doing this project I was a bit intimidated. I thought about doing this conversion last year but I decided against it because I thought it would be very involved and that a shop would have to do all the work. So I kept sticking clutches in it and wasting money.
    I approached this article a bit differently than any other article I have done before. This is the first article that I really took almost a month to write. Many articles I’ve been able to hammer out in a day or two. This article took about 3 weeks to write. I also waited to finish it until I actually had some seat time with the new transmission. A lot of times you will do a project and your immediate reactions change. Some times you will become annoyed with the little things after driving it for a little bit whether it a sound or a vibration, or some change in the drivibility.

    Don’t get intimated by the magnitude of information in this article. Most of it can be done by yourself while you are waiting for a transmission to be built. If you are mechanically inclined and have access to a lift it’s not that hard at all. If you are on the fence about going automatic like I was I hope this article will help you make the right decision that will be most beneficial for you. Everyone is different and that is why I tried to be as detailed as possible so that you have the information to make a decision.
    When is the right time to switch to a automatic transmission?
    To me throwing bad money after bad money is the deciding factor. A busted up 6th gear and 3 bad clutches started taking all the fun out of a car that was designed strictly to be a fun car. This is not my daily driver and I don’t have to depend on it to take back and forth to work. I don’t mind investing money if there is a reason to, but I was throwing bad money after bad money. With the above mentioned parts and labor I dropped $3500 plus the cost of a 26 spline input shaft, shifter, quadrant, cable, and firewall adjuster. That’s total of about $4200 invested in a T56 setup that had no reliability for me.
    I was faced with dropping another $1500 in parts and labor to get the car back up and running. I would then be in the same position as I was before (not knowing whether or not the next clutch setup would work).
    Another factor is that most clutches require a decent break in time. I for one don’t want to put 500 miles on my car before I can start hammering on it hard. I only put 1000-1500 miles a year on the car to begin with and when I do drive it I want to have fun with it. I wasn’t expecting to do another project, a big project at that. So I was left with a dilemma and I had to weigh out my options.

    Photo by Steve Boing

    I kept asking myself can a stick setup in a street car that puts out over 650 rwhp/720 torque be reliable? One that weighs 3850 pounds with driver no less! The phrase “10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound bag” kept coming to mind. The clutch debate is quite a controversial topic. Clutch manufactures will swear up and down that their clutch will work for you. It’s one thing for a company to say that but it sure is another thing to stand by it if you have to replace it 1000 miles down the road. Who can blame a clutch company if they don’t want to give you a replacement? They have no idea whether or not the clutch has been abused or installed incorrectly. To the credit of Centerforce they stepped up and have taken care of some customers that have posted their problems on the internet. To McLeod’s credit they did send me a replacement clutch and pressure plate for no cost but I had to pay for the flywheel and shipping both ways. Shipping alone is $50 bucks if it goes out ground. That cost can triple if you need it send overnight. I spent $300 bucks alone in shipping to get the clutch out and back. If you can’t do the work yourself it costs about $350-500 in labor to do a clutch swap. If you run long tube headers that make the job a lot more involved. Then there’s the down time you need to factor in. So even if a clutch manufacturer will help you out with parts (which is extremely difficult) you can still be faced with a very decent size bill.The T56 is rated only to 450 pounds of torque capacity but it seems to hold up for the most part with an upgraded input shaft ($300 part, $500 labor). However as you probably know by know the T56 can be very notchy. I’ve tried 3 different shifters (Pro 5.0, Steeda, and MGW). The MGW was the best by far, but the transmission was still notchy.
    Power shifting was completely out of the question as it was too hard to engage gears at WOT. I was just embarrassed with missed shifts in this car. So I had to let off the gas to shift. This obviously leaves a lot of ET on the table at the track with a boosted car. Still though the T56 seems to be much more durable than the T45 or T5 transmissions and also seems to be pretty much on par with the Tremec TKO.
    Clutches on the other hand are a different story. In terms of 03-04 Cobras (heavy cars with a lot of power/fat torque curve) a lot of people like myself have had issues. Some problems are drivability issues like excessive chatter. Some clutches just wear out prematurely or wear unevenly. Some clutches can’t survive a track outing. Every time you read a different clutch thread you get different results and feedback.

    Photo by Steve Boing

    Believe it or not I don’t drive like a young punk on the street and I’ve only taken my car to the track 2 times. I don’t do burnouts on the street, and I don’t slip the clutch excessively. I got all of that out of my system about 10 years ago (I’m 36 now). I primarily just do 3rd and 4th gear pulls on the highway to tune the car using the SCT software. Am I exceeding the expectations of a heavy car that’s making a lot of power? I was starting to think so. I worked with Mc Leod’s top guy and Centerforce personally on these issues and I still came away unsuccessful. I was meticulous with the clutch installs making sure the clutch cable was adjusted right and making sure the clutch was engaging and disengaging properly. I just didn’t bolt the clutch in and drive. I checked, double checked, and verified again. Not only was I experiencing wear problems but I was getting drivability issues too. The first Mc Leod clutch gave me a lot of chatter, the 2nd Mc Leod clutch had no chatter but like most twin disc clutches, they don’t like to be slipped at all when launching on drag radials. When you have a lot of torque this makes the launch very tricky.Does someone know something that I don’t? If you post a thread about clutches you will get a fire storm of replies and everyone claims to know the answer (primarily from the guys that want to sell you one). “Your not using the correct quadrant”,”The cable isn’t adjusted right”, “One disc can’t handle all the power, you need 2”, “Use an aluminum flywheel” , “Use a steel flywheel”, “Use a billet flywheel”, Use a 5 spring DFX,”, “Use a 6 spring DFX”, “Try a Spec”, Try a Ram”, “Try a Exedy”, “Talk to this guy directly” etc etc etc. It’s enough to make your head spin. Throw into the mix all the other 03-04 Cobras reporting clutch failures and I knew I certainly had enough of this.

    Another transmission bites the dust at the track.

    If you need an opinion from an experienced Mustang Modifier I can offer this bit of advice. If you around the 500 rwhp or under, the T56 is still probably a good choice. Here are some situations where switching over to an automatic might make sense.

    1. Twin screw cars pushing 550 rwhp that run on drag radials at the track.
    2. Any 03-04 Cobra making more than 600 rwhp
    3. Any 03-04 Cobra that seems more track duty than street duty.
    4. Any 03-04 Cobra that can’t keep a clutch in the car very long.

    Why use a 4R70W?
    There are many reasons to use a 4R70W if you are ready to convert to an automatic. The 4R70W can handle as much power as you can throw at it in this type of car. A lockup setup can support 1000 bhp and still be streetable plus it will retain an overdrive gear which will be able to drive on the street. If 1000 bhp (roughly 800 rwhp) is not enough for you try a strip non lockup 4R70W which will take 1500 hp. This model will also sport an overdrive gear so you can drive it on the street.
    Many people have switched over to a C4. A C4 is a bit lighter and will take a little less hp but your sacrificing your cars streetibility. Not to mention that it is a non lockup transmission and will not be as efficient as a lockup style transmission. So it is essentially a race transmission. The best built C4 can not handle the same power levels that a well built 4R70W can. The 4R70W is much more desirable of an option for the street or the strip.
    Some people have even expressed interest to use a powerglide transmission in a race application. I can not stress enough that it is extremely important to use at least 3 gears going down the track in this type of car. The 32 valve Mod Motor needs a minimum of 3 gears. With a powerglide the RPM drop is too much and will load down the transmission on the gear change. Typically most Modular Racers lose 2 to 2.5 tenths in the ¼ changing from a C4 to a powerglide because it takes more power to turn and because it loads the RPMS on the gear change.
    Why not use an AOD? Some people feel that an AOD can support more power ultimately. First off an AOD will not bolt up to a Modular engine block. It was never designed to do so. 2ndly I will stress again that the hp numbers that a street 4R70W can support (1000 hp) and 1500 hp for race applications should be enough to satisfy every type of owner.
    You are now starting to see a hybrid model which consists of an AOD with AODE parts. Some people are building AOD transmissions with AODE (4R70W) input shafts. I’m sure you will see technology starting to increase the capability of all overdrive transmissions.
    Develop a well thought out plan
    Like I said I wasn’t planning on doing a project of this nature so I had to rely on advice from people I knew in the industry.
    The first thing I did was turn to Lidio from Alternative Auto ( because he has always had great success running big hp Stangs fitted with Automatics. I called him right from the shop as soon as we pulled out the last bad clutch. I remember taking a ride in Lidio’s 03 Mach 1 equipped with the stock 4R75W in the Fall of 04 when he did some work for me. I was very impressed by his car. It applied torque in a way that it just pinned you back in your seat. After he installed the Whipple on my car, I remember thinking my car with the T56 doesn’t feel like this. His car at that time was making around 560 rwhp/540 torque. My car at the time was making 560 rwhp/520 torque. There I was at the shop just thinking to myself what it would be like in a car with 680 rwhp/720 torque and an automatic to apply the power.

    Lidio's 04 Mach 1

    I will be the first one to admit I knew nothing about a 4R70W or even an AODE going into this project. My past experiences with automatics have been non lockup full race manual reverse valve body C4/power glides. My old 88 GT had an AOD with an Art Carr non lockup setup and never came close to ET’in like a stick. So for this project I made a list of goals I wanted to accomplish. I definitely wanted reliability, and I wanted an over drive gear so I could drive the car on the street as much as I wanted. Those were the 2 top goals. This is not my daily driver so I had some flexibility. So the first thing I did was talk to as many knowledgeable sources on the subject as possible.Performance goals
    At the track I previously ran a best of [email protected] through the 6 speed with a pathetic 1.98 60 foot time on drag radials. I wasn’t coming even close to applying the power. So picking the parts for this project would be critical. All the 03-04 Cobras that had 4R70W’s installed and had similar mods to my car were getting 1.4ish 60 foot times, low 1.5’s worst case. With the power my car was making this should be good enough for 10.3’s by my estimation if the car will hook off the line with ET streets.
    History of the 4R70W
    What do the numbers and letters mean? 4 is the number of forward gears.
    R is Rear drive, 70 or 75 is the torque capacity of the trans without the zero (700-750 ft lb on the input shaft) W is for Wide ratio. The AOD-E transmission first appeared behind the 4.6L modular V-8 engines in 1992. Essentially a beefed-up electronically-controlled version of the AOD, the AOD-E also includes a new and stronger wide ratio model (the AOD-EW or 4R70W) which was introduced in the 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII. The AOD-E (in both standard and wide ratio versions) completely replaced the old AOD in 1994 with a new case that mates to the 5.0L and 3.8L engines. The 4r70w comes in two lengths, there was a longer one that came in trucks and crown vics, the the shorter version that came in the mustangs. there is a 1" difference.

    The AOD was finally replaced by the AOD-E/4R70W in 1994 for all remaining applications and was used in the Mustang GT in 1996 with the 4.6L 2-Valve engines. It was also nicked the term AOD-EW (W for wide gear ratio). It’s been improved a little here and there over the years and is still used today in the current F-150’s. In 2004, it was called the 4R75W because it got a couple of improvements giving it slightly greater torque handling capacity. In 2004, it was called the 4R75W because it got a couple of improvements giving it slightly greater torque handling capacity.
    The beauty of the AOD-E/4R70W is that it retains all of the AOD’s good features while improving the weak points (some of which can be improved in an AOD by using AOD-E parts). The AOD-E incorporates an enlarged two-inch-wide overdrive band, thereby eliminating an obvious weak link as well as providing some of the previously mentioned upgrade parts for the AOD.
    Another feature that is greatly improved from the AOD is the "lockup" or torque converter bypass system. Instead of the weaker concentric input shaft system of the AOD, the AOD-E/4R70W uses an actual clutch in the converter to provide lockup under EEC control, rather than the fixed "60% lockup" in third and "full lockup" in fourth gear system of the AOD. The stronger input shaft and greater flexibility of this system are further enhanced by the fact that the converter clutch may actually be partially applied or "slipped" under electrical PWM (pulse-width-modulation) control from the EEC PCM.
    Differences in the 4R70W models
    I researched the different choices of transmissions and talked to a boat load of people. There were basically 2 transmission options to choose from. Purchase a 4R70W and have it completely built up or find a 4R75W and install a manual valve body and install better clutches. The 4R75W is essentially the same transmission as a 4R70W as it came stock in a Mach 1. The 4R75W is pretty built pretty stout from the factory, and with some minor inexpensive modifications can work very well. There seems to be a lot of guys doing this and having good success with it.
    The problem is finding a 4R75W as most people know what they have and won’t part with it. I searched every Stang site I could think of and EBay with no luck. You can purchase a 4R75W straight from Ford for $850 however they charge $1299 for a core charge. Factor in the cost for the upgrades needed and it didn’t make sense. So I decided to get a 4R70W and have it built by a top notch builder.
    Top notch transmission builders and sources for parts to build your own
    Top notch transmission builders
    I can’t stress enough that is very important to pick the right source for your transmission. Not all transmission builders are equal in regards to building high performance over drive transmissions. I considered several companies to purchase my transmission from including Carl Rossler (, Level 10 (, and Lentech (
    People ask me why I didn’t consider PA Performance or recommend them. I’ve seen first hand many cars at the track pulling out PA transmissions. I know that there are several guys with 03-04 Cobras using PA 4R70W transmissions and seem to run well. Horsepower by Herman has worked with PA on developing a transmission/converter package for the 03-04 Cobra. Out of all the guys using them I’m not hearing too many issues but I have heard a few bad stories about their valve bodies on these cars. This combined with what I see at the track with my own eyes makes them too hit or miss for my preferences. Not to say that PA Performance can’t build a good transmission because I have seen some guys who have had good results. There are just a few other companies that I feel more comfortable with.
    Carl Rossler has his transmissions in a lot of heavy high HP vehicles. I there is one guy with a 4000 plus pound Marauder running 9’s with a Rossler 4R70W. The shop where I did all my installation work will only use Rossler transmissions but they had a wait time of 5-6 weeks when I called.
    Lentech impressed me the most as they seemed to be the most advanced in technology on this transmission. They also had a very friendly staff that were always available and answered all my “NEWBEE” questions just the way I was hoping. I also know guys running some very high hp Stangs that use Lentech transmissions and they all had great things to say.
    One other variable I look to in a transmission supplier is to what is their specialty. Lentech has been building and improving their AOD’s since the 1980’s. They are known for their AOD’s. Some other shops are race transmissions specialists, not experts in street overdrive transmissions.
    Building your own transmission and parts sources
    For those that like to do their own work and are confident in rebuilding it themselves I found a couple good sources for all the parts needed. and

    4R70W Transmission options
    You definitely need to understand the differences of all the options available. Even though I knew the 4R70W was the transmission to use I still had many choices to make. You have to choice between lockup or non lockup. Auto shift or manual shift? You also have to pick the transmission gear set and lastly but equally as important as any other choice is the converter. You may even have to change rear end gears depending upon which setup you get. You have to pick the right parts or you can end up hating yourself for the choices you make.
    Lockup or non lockup
    Again you will get a lot of different opinions from people. Each choice is equally important. To summarize: When a torque converter locks up, it is bypassing its fluid coupling to provide a no slip direct connection between crankshaft and the compound planetary gearsets. A non lockup input shaft is a one piece shaft. A lockup input shaft is made up of 2 pieces. Non Lockup transmissions will support more power ultimately, but it shouldn’t be a factor unless you are making over 1000 bhp. On a stock lockup setup the input shaft (part that sticks out of the transmission is 31 splines, and the mid shaft that is connected to the other side of the forward drum is 23 spline. The 31 spline input shaft is a hefty piece and is hollow inside for oil to flow through it. The weak part of the system is the 23 spline mid shaft. Upgrading it to a 26 spline mid shaft makes it durable enough to handle 1000 hp.

    Picture of a lockup input shaft

    Picture of a lockup input shaft connected to the FWD drum

    A little history about lockups. The AOD and 4R70w transmissions lockup differently. The 4r70w has a clutch in the converter that does the lockup. The AOD uses a concentric inputshaftto lock the converter and is used in 3rd and 4th gear.Lockup transmissions run cooler oil temps, get better gas mileage, and MPH better in the ¼ mile. A non lockup converter loses 10% of power through a torque converters fluid coupling. Running the converter in non lockup mode for extra torque multiplication, then lock it up in high gear gives you the best of both worlds. In my opinion having 3 speeds with a lockup in high gear is the perfect setup for a heavy Mustang. After talking with Len about all the options I decided that his Lockup Street terminator plus transmission was the best option.
    Picking a transmission gear set.
    If you are having a transmission built, you have the benefit of being able to pick which gear set you want to use. There are 2 gear sets you can choose from. Which one you choose will depend on your application and how much power you’re making.
    The wide ratio, which is most common and is standard in factory applications.
    (1st 2.84) (2nd 1.55) (3rd 1.0) ( 4th OD 0.70)
    Close ratio gear set
    (1st 2.4) (2nd 1.47) (3rd 1.0) (4th 0.67)

    I chose the close ratio because I don’t need a big 1st gear with over 700 pounds of torque plus I have the torque multiplication of the converter to help accelerate the car. The 0.67 overdrive gear is very close to the T56’s 6th gear ratio of 0.63. The 03-04 Cobra T56 gear set is 1st 2.66, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.30, 4th 1.0, 5th 0.8, and 6th 0.63. The 2.4 gear set also has less RPM drop on both shifts compared to the wide ratio gear set which will keep the RPM’s in the power band a little better.
    Do I really need a transbrake?
    I had to chose whether or not to use a transbrake. Anyone who does any racing at the track with Slicks or ET streets will want to use a transbrake. If nothing else it will give you better consistency and help your reaction times if you are into bracket racing. Because of the broad torque curve of most 03-04 Cobra’s (most run positive displacement blowers) you probably don’t need a transbrake to get a good 60 foot time. Centrifical blowers are a different story.So if you’re going to the track once a year you probably want a transbrake. A converter that can leave on the foot brake around 2500 rpm’s would give great results. A transbrake allows you to leave at WOT under boost. Once you pull the button your off like a rocket. Since I’m planning on using 28X12.5 ET streets so I did get the transbrake.
    Lastly when ordering a transmission you need to specify the electronics for the speed sensor when you order a transmission. Make sure you specify that you specify that you need the 6 pulse output electronics for the speed sensor. If you are buying your own core make sure you use a 1998-2003 core as these cores came with this electronics.
    Picking the correct converter
    So now I got a transmission picked out and all the setup issues decided but what do I do for a converter? Lidio is a firm believer in the stock Mach 1 converter and keeping the converter as tight as possible. Lidio has ran a best of 10.5 on drag radials with his Mach 1 and feels its because of how tight the converter is that allows him to leave the line with traction. However the stock Mach 1 converter is a single stage clutch that has limitations of how much horsepower and abuse it can handle. I always am a firm believer that you need to plan on buying parts that are designed for more than you need. This usually comes with a high price tag.

    Most people use Precision Industries torque converters so I thought the decision was a no brainer. Precision Industries ( makes a very good 9.5” converter. Their Stallion series 9.5” converters have the most torque multiplication available. The torque multiplication on the 9.5-inch series is 2.53 to 1 compared to a stock Ford converter at 1.93 to 1. PI claims the torque multiplication of their lockup converter will deliver an increase of up to 50 horsepower to the rear wheels.
    Only under heavy research did I found 1 or 2 failures of these converters. Not bad at all for the amount of converters that are out there and the length of time these converters have been out. Apparently in the couple cases of failure the clutches prematurely wore out. However, I found out that the converters that failed were bought used from someone else. I talked to several others who have used PI in lockup applications of high hp and torque and they had great success with it so I chose the PI converter.
    There are some people who feel the clutches in the PI converters are not good enough for our application. Chris at Circle D Specialties 713-895-8834 can rebuild them using different clutch material.
    Picking the correct transmission cooler
    This is a very big part of the installation. Improper cooling can lead to premature transmission failure. Picking the right cooler and the placement of the cooler is absolutely essential. I tried to save money by using a True Cool cooler that was rated at 28,000 GVRW and put an 8” fan on it. However temps were running over 200 for any extended period of time. This goes to prove that all transmission coolers are not the same. I know of one guy running 3 coolers just get the temps down to 175. The design, size, and construction are ultra important. So save yourself time and aggreviation, don’t skimp on the cooler.

    You need an electric fan to draw the heat away from the core. I’ve seen people use twin B&M coolers with no fans but I really feel it is unnecessary to have 2 coolers. Mounting 2 coolers is very challenging as space is extremely limited. If you have a K&N filter in the fender well the only place you can mount to kits is in front of the AC condenser. This will cause higher engine temps. Try to use only 1 cooler if possible as it will have less line pressure drop. I was able to do it successfully. The cooler I have listed in the parts list has a link to it. I see temps of 150 the majority of the time, and 175-180 on very long stop and go traffic. I strongly recommend it. It even has a temp sensor built in to it where you can wire it in to the fan and it will only kick on after it reaches 175. I have mine wired full time though.
    Auto shift or manual shift valve body
    Jon Lund and a few others have been able to successfully use a Mach 1 processor and be able to fully auto shift. Other’s like Lidio use a Baumenator ( I had no confidence that I could get either or these 2 applications to work on my own and I did not want to experiment on a brand new $3000 transmission. I knew Jon Lund and DynoDan did the swap but they put some time into programming it to run like it should. I didn’t want to do this after such a big project because I wanted to verify everything worked like it should. So I decided to go manual valve body and figured that I’d give it a try. If I wasn’t happy with it I could possibility try one of the other options.

    Since my car is not a daily driver it was an easy to go with the manual valve body. However I recognize that many people may not wish to shift manually all the time. Both methods (Mach 1 and Baumenator) work as they are proven mods. It’s just a matter of who’s doing the work and who’s helping you. I strongly recommend Jon Lund for the Mach 1 conversion and Lidio for the Baumenator install.
    Using the Mach 1 computer for control
    Here is a quote from a post that Jon Lund made about the auto conversion project when he upgraded to a Mach 1 computer.
    Here is also a quote from a post that Jon Lund made about the auto conversion project when he upgraded to a Mach 1 computer.
    “Going to the next level with a full electronic conversion is time intensive !! I did mine on mine own so I spent tedious hours with the Ford service DVD going through Pinouts and researching the best route for wiring, EEC type, sanity check, etc... Yes you can get a Harness from Ford for say a 03 Mach 1 but its not that simple. When changing harnesses it requires both male & female ends to complete the proper pinouts to get the Trans features to the EEC. Guess what the main EEC/PCM 03/04 Cobra harness does not support Auto Trans so Ford didn't even have the small plastic pinout hole open. This in itself would make most individuals stop there and say I might as well buy an 03 Mach 1 Automatic and install a Cobra motor in it.
    The neat thing about running a MAch 1 Auto EEC is it can be controlled with the same SCT TUning software I use for the Engine Tuning.
    The Mach 1 EEC supports most of the same Pinouts as the Cobra EEC, You do lose some features and gain some features.
    Losses : IAT 1 and IAT 2 , there is only 1 on the Mach 1 so the MAch is receiving Data from the IAT2 sesnor because its Aircharged Temp.
    Same Sensor also houses the MAP Sensor (Vacuum/Boost) The Mach does not support a Baro sensor so its gone, but no problem because even the Cobra EEC does not use the Baro reading for anything but Boost Bypass, No tuning issues with Baro.
    The Mach EEC does not support the Intercooler Function nor the Supercharger Bypass Function. Again no problem. Power the Intercooler from a switch or from an OEM 12v ignition source for Key/Engine On. Supercharger Bypass is shut-off in the tune.
    Gains: You do gain Knock sensor support but Ford does not use them on the Supercharged 4.6 due to Feedback noise from the blower and really the IAT 2 feature will pull timing when heat is an issue through the ACT timing retard. So really not an issue.
    Trans Functions support for TFT, Lockup, overdrive, 1 and 2 shift soliniod, and gear position.”
    So there you have it the info needed if you want to use the Mach1 computer.
    Clearance considerations
    Now for the most stressful part of the project, will the transmission fit with the Stainless Works long tube headers? I knew of noone that had done the swap with my headers. I knew this transmission fit with the Kooks long tube headers, and that people have had problems getting this to work with the BBK headers. I could not find a 4R70W core or blank case to save my life for me to trial fit it. I knew that going into the project I was going to do what ever it took to make them work even if that included changing headers.

    Once you start a project of this magnitude you have to be 100% committed to seeing in through. Fortunately as it turned out they did fit, but it could have not been any tighter. I had to grind off a tab on the bellhousing on the passenger side that was not needed. Then using a transmission jack, the transmission was installed with it tilted a bit. The dip stick was another chore as it took about 2 hours to muscle it in and wrestle it around the headers.
    Some people have claimed that they had to massage the tunnel and trim the shifter opening to get the AODE shifter in. I had none of these issues and I had to do no trimming or “massaging”! It fit like a glove. The process just took longer.
    Lets get to it! The actual installation
    With all the parts in hand (with the exception of the transmission which will take 3 weeks to build) I started tackling the project. The first thing I did after I removed the 6 speed , clutch and flywheel was swap out the 6 speed pedal assembly for a Mach 1 assembly.
    Installing the Pedal assembly
    Installing the AODE shifter
    Examples of aftermarket shifter installations
    What to do with the T56 harness
    4R70W wiring harness mods
    Transbrake wiring
    Installing the switches
    Driveline installation
    Torque Converter installation
    Location and installation of transmission cooler
    Driveshaft modifications

    Pedal assembly and factory switch mods
    It’s simply a bolt in and out swap. There are 2 things you need to be aware of. You have to do something with the clutch position switch and for the cruise control cancel switch. If you do not plan on running a neutral safety switch you can simply tie wrap the switch in the closed position. If you take the route I did and purchase a shift position sensor for neutral safety you need to cut the switch out at both ends and then take the 2 ends of wire and run them to the neutral safety switch.

    Stock 6 speed brake pedal assembly

    Here is the Clutch position switch. You can see how it connects to the pedal assembly in the following pictures

    What I did was extend the wires under the dash and run them up through the center counsel and then down under the shifter to snake the wiring down to the new sensor. I’ve included this in my wiring diagrams at the end of the article.

    • Take Red/Light blue (Hot in start) wire and cut it from the connector. Take wire and lengthen it. Run it down to 4R70W harness. Connect it to the Red/Light blue wire on the DTR (Digital Transmission Range sensor) aka shift position sensor connector.
    • Take White/Pink wire (goes to starter relay) and lengthen it. Run it down to 4R70W harness. Connect it to the White/Pink wire coming off the DTR sensor connector

    For the cruise control switch I simply wire tied it closed and then tucked it up under the dash.
    AODE shifter and cable
    I used the stock Ford AODE shifter that comes in all automatics. I like the clean stock appearance look. A made a plate so that the AOD shifter would bolt in to the stock location like it would if it came from FORD. The linkage is all straight forward and the pictures summarize how I installed it all.

    Aftermarket shifter options
    I’ve included a few pictures of other combinations that I was able to find on the net to give you some ideas of how others did them in case the stock shifter is not to your liking.

    T56 harness
    You will need to remove the entire T56 harness. Do not sell it as part of your transmission package. You will need the T56’s main connector which you can not purchase by itself. For what the T56 harness is worth ($50) reusing the main connector will save you a lot of time and grief. We will talk about why you need the connector below. In the following picture you will see a comparison of the T56 harness compared to the 4R70W harness. If your 4R70W harness looks a little different (same connectors just spaced a little differently) than the one in the picture its ok. Mine did to. Picture courtesy of Steve Boing.

    Photo by Steve Boing

    4R70W wiring harness
    Thanks to Steve Boing (03Steve) this could have been a real mess if it wasn’t for his research and time to figure this out. He told me about all the problems he ran into when doing this and allowed me to wire it in pretty simple. To put it simple there isn’t a bolt on wiring harness that you can use. What you need to do is buy a 99GT 4R70W wiring harness. As you can see in the pictures the main connector to the computer is the same but they aren’t the same pin outs. If you try to just plug this harness a couple 02 sensors will not work and neither will the lights.

    Photo by Steve Boing

    What I did was dike off the main connector from the T56 harness. I then cut off the main connector to the new 4R70W harness and threw it in the trash. I matched up all the wires on the main connector except for PIN 13 TN/RD. It isn't on the new harness because it’s the Reserve lockout solenoid for the T56 transmission. Just leave that wire cut off and unattached to anything. Reserve lockout is to prevent you from shifting into reverse when trying to shift into 3rd or 5th gear.

    Photo by Steve Boing

    White connector (10 pin connector) on the 4R70W harness mods – 1998 and up harnesses

    • Brown/orange connector gets switched to ground for lockup of converter.
      • Extend this wire and take it to a switch and then ground switch when closed.

    • Orange/yellow and Violet/orange wires get connected together and combine them into 1 wire that goes to a switch. When the switch is closed it gets switched to ground to control overdrive.
    • Solid red wire needs a 12 volt source because you’re using a different harness that wasn’t designed for this application. What I did was splice this wire into the solid orange wire on DTR sensor connector.

    *Note the wiring for pre1998 harnesses is different as they have different pin outs.

    As you see in the picture I have LED indicator lights when OD, Lockup, or Line lock circuits are activated. I primarily put them in for my wife so she can drive the car but I do find it as a nice reminder if I have one of the circuits activated. If you run LED’s you need to run them through relays. Also make sure you “do not” use LED’s that have resistors built in them. These types of LED’s have a decent voltage drop across them and will not ground the circuit as needed. I use separate 30amp automotive relays for each circuit (transbrake, line lock, OD, and lockup). If you don’t need LED’s just ground the OD, and lockup circuits via a switch to ground. No relay is needed.
    DTR sensor (shift position sensor)
    12 pin connector on the 4R70W harness used for Neutral safety and reverse lights.

    • Pin 12 White/Pink wire goes to white/pink wire from the old clutch pedal position switch.
    • Pin 10 Red/blue wire connects to the Red/Light blue wire from old clutch pedal switch.

    Notes on installing the shift position sensor
    When you get the speed sensor open it up before you leave the parts counter to make sure it is the complete kit that comes with the spacers and mounting bolts. Mine did not come with it but luckily the shop had extra parts lying around from another project. When bolting the sensor to the transmission you will see that there is a little bit of slack and adjustability of the sensor. I did not realize this at first and when I went to start my car up for the first time it wouldn’t crank. You may need to play with the position of the sensor. Its adjustability is similar to a TPS sensor if you have ever adjusted one. Once you have the car up and running you will want to try to start the car in each gear. It should only start in Park and Neutral. If it doesn’t you may need to adjust the sensor slightly.

    Photo by Steve Boing

    Photo by Steve Boing

    Photo by Steve Boing

    Photo by Steve Boing

    Transbrake Wiring
    Since the Stock AODE shifter has a button on it (Ford used it to activate the OD circuit) I decided to use it for the transbrake. Why would I do this instead of using like Ford designed it? Because the button is only a momentary switch. The factory OD circuit only requires a pulse to activate it.

    One thing to be aware of is that the switch uses extremely thin 24 gauge wire. I’ve seen people hook the switch directly up to the transbrake circuit and wonder why they keep blowing the switch. This factory switch can not take any decent amount of current through the wiring or the switch. Despite that, you can still use this switch to run the transbrake however you need to run it on the coil side of the relay where there is only a very small current. Always use a relay when wiring the transbrake regardless of which type of switch you use. Even if you have a switch that is rated at 100amps you still need the relay because it transbrake will draw more current than the 12 volt source that will supply it. The output of the relay should go to the transbrake directly in conjunction with a 12 gauge wire. Again refer to the schematic wiring diagram for the relays to see how I wired it.
    Installing the switches
    As you can see in the picture I have installed push button switches on the center counsel. I removed the center counsel to make it easier to install and wire. The center counsel is only held in with 4 bolts. 2 are in the center glove compartment, and 2 are in the front by the shifter bezel. You may have a difficult time removing the center counsel because of the E brake. TO make it easy to remove I had the E brake all the way in the up position and I slide the E brake leather cover off of it. You want to mount the switches where they are convenient to engage. Again the switches are not necessary if you are running a computer to control auto shift.

    I used the 2 red push button switches for OD and lockup

    Driveline installation.
    Bolt the flywheel on first. Make sure you get the bolts from Ford as they are the only ones that have them. Don’t forget to change out the pilot bearing as well. Before you install the transmission install the converter.
    Torque Converter install
    I used a PI converter and according to their instruction you need to place the transmission vertically, and then install the converter on the input shaft of the transmission. Make sure you put at least 1 gallon of ATF in the converter before you install it.You will need to make sure the converter is completely seated on the shaft of the converter before you install the transmission. The converter fits onto the input and you should hear two separate clicks. After you hear the 2nd click you’ll know that the converter is on the shaft far enough. You will know if you don’t have the converter on the shaft correctly once you try to install the transmission because there will not be enough gap between the converter and the flywheel pads.Next install the plug for where the mechanical speed sensor would go. Make sure when ordering the plug that you get a bolt for it as it does not come with one. I do not have this bolt on the parts list because I just used what I had.

    Next install the speed sensor. It can only go in one way. Make sure when you order the plug you also get a bolt for it as it doesn’t come with one. I do not have this bolt on the parts list because I used what I had in supplies.

    IMPORTANT NOTE: My transmission came with no fittings so make sure you order the fittings ahead of time. If you are using 5/16 brake line for the transmission lines you need to purchase the fittings from Ford as it is a special part. You will want to install them before you install the transmission because you have easier access to them.

    Installing the transmission
    When installing the transmission make sure you use a transmission jack and secure it to the jack with the safety belts. In my case it was absolutely a necessity because there is a tilt adjustment on the transmission. Make sure the dipstick is not in the transmission when you install it. Also make sure you have your transmission line fittings fastened to the trans before installing it.

    02 Sensor interference
    One thing I noticed right away was that on the driver side exhaust the Wide band 02 sensor and the stock front 02 sensor would need to be relocated to the other side of the header. I had them facing the transmission and as you can see in the next picture I had to cap them off and weld in new bungs on the other side.

    The bungs now welded in facing out away from the transmission.
    For the transmission to clear past the headers I had to tilt the transmission on an angle. From there it was pretty smooth sailing. If you are installing this transmission with long tube headers you will want to dremel off the mounting tabs on the bell housing that are not used. This gives you more clearance around the area of the starter housing which will help clear the headers. For me the fit could not have been any tighter and removing part of the mounting tab was critical for the needed clearance.
    Once I had the transmission bolted to the engine I bolted in the cross member. After the transmission was secure I bolted the converter to the flywheel and then reinstalled the starter. The starter bolts are pure hell to get in. Make sure you install all 3 bolts. Some people cheat with only installing 2 bolts because the top bolt is a huge pain to get back in. I seen them pay the price at the track when their starter falls out in the staging lanes.

    Next part is to install the linkage, plug in the sensors to the 4R70W harness and run your transmission cooler lines. We’ll talk about proper cooling and installation of the transmission cooler next.
    Next put in the dipstick. This took me 2 hours to do on my car because the headers made everything so tight. Put some RTV down around the bottom where it goes into the transmission. This will prevent leaks.
    Installing a Transmission cooler
    This is as equally important of a choice because where it located can affect engine temperature. You have 3 choices of where to install the cooler. Vertically in front of the AC condenser, horizontally under the electric fan bolted to the chassis, or off to the side in the fender well. As you can see in the picture below I mounted the cooler to the chassis horizontally. This raised engine temp as much as 10-12 degrees because the heat from the cooler radiated up to the engine radiator.

    By mounting the cooler under the fender well I was able to keep the engine temps where they always were before the install. To mount the cooler you can go to any hardware store and get pipe hanging brackets. I didn’t take any pictures of my car with the bumper off but I got the idea from this owner who did the same thing.

    Here’s a picture of my fan tucked in under the bumper from the underside.

    Another picture

    I made this shield so that the hot air removed from the cooler doesn’t blow on to the radiator and radiate heat back to it. On the very left hand side you can see where the fog lamp scoop is.

    Driveshaft decisions
    In the parts list I listed all the parts to convert a stock 04 Cobra driveshaft to work with the new transmission. It’s a lot of work. You need to get a driveshaft spacer, a new front and rear yokes, new front and rear U joints, and a new rear-end flange. I did all of this before I realized that I could have a custom driveshaft made out of aluminum. I thought steel was my only option at the time. There is a downside to buying the parts that I did. One you might need to get the driveshaft rebalanced anyway if you experience vibrations. The yoke also sticks out of the transmission about 1 ¾” an inch. It may be better to get a custom driveshaft.
    In the picture above is the new front drive shaft yoke and Steeda spacer.

    When I lined up the Steeda Spacer I realized that it didn’t have the same bolt circle as the rear end yoke or the rear end flange. The above picture is with a 448 Ujoint installed with the Mach 1 rear yoke.

    Here is a picture of the stock 04 Cobra rear end flange. It does not mate up with the Steeda Spacer and needs to replaced.

    Here is the tool used to remove the rear end flange.

    A picture of the old rear end flange and the new Mach 1 flange.

    The finished product bolted together.

    This is as far as the driveshaft goes into the transmission.

    As you can see the driveshaft yoke sticks out of the transmission about 1 7/8 of an inch.
    The yoke is 6 inches long total in lengthand the first 2 inches does not have splines. This leaves 2.125” of spline engagement inside the transmission. The minimum amount of engagement I have heard anyone claim is 1.5” so this should be ok. If you make a custom driveshaft make the driveshaft about 1.375” longer total. This will allow you to ditch the spacer, not need to change the rear end flange, and the yoke will only stick out about an 1” and will give 3” of spline engagement.
    Installing the transmission temp gauge and deep sump pan.

    I bought a 3 gauge pod and installed the transmission gauge there.

    For the sending unit to the temp gauge I could not find a deep sump pan that had the bung for it already made so I bought a TCI unit and tapped/drilled a hole for it.

    The transmission oil filter that came with the transmission doesn’t have a pickup.

    Here is the transmission filter that came with the TCI pan, note the extended pickup for it.

    You can see where I drilled the pan for the sending unit. You have to be very careful on where to drill it for clearance issues. This was the best place possible that presented no clearances issues.

    As you can see the pan sits no lower than the collectors so ground clearance issues are not a problem.
    Programming changes in the tuneup
    The output gear on the 4R70W outputs less pulses per MPH than the T-56. The reluctor wheel in the Output shaft has 6 reluctors instead of 12 from the T-56/T3650.
    The following changes need to be made in the SCT software so that the speedometer works correctly. Scalars>Systemswitches>Number of holes for OSS Sensor - Change it to 6 instead of 12.
    Finishing touches
    When everything is all bolted on and ready to go double check to make sure everything is tightened down and go through the entire car top to bottom and make a check list. This project is too big for anything to have been missed. Pour 5 quarts of Mercon 5 into the dipstick. After you have verified everything is right now is a good time to check to make sure the Neutral safety switch is working correctly. Try starting the car in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and Reverse. Make sure it can’t start. Then try to fire it up in Park, have another 6 to 7 quarts of transmission fluid ready to go. Go the gears of the transmission while someone is else is adding transmission fluid. Put the car in neutral with the parking brake on and check the fluid level. Add fluid until the fluid is in the cross hatch level.
    This completes the installation process.
    Initial driving impressions after the 4R70W installation.
    The car is real smooth on the street. No more jerky or chatter rolls from a stop. The car feels like a normal car when your just cruising around. As far as performance goes, one word sums it up, WOW! If you have not ridden in a high boosted automatic car you need to. It is like night and day. The torque multiplication and torque delivery is unmatched compared to the 6 speed. You really get pinned in your seat. To me it feels like another 75 hp or a shot of nitrous. My car is making a lot of boost and torque so the results might be different on lower boost and torque cars. But like I said before I remember Lidio’s car at 16 pounds at the 550 rwhp mark also pinning me back. Obviously my car feels a lot stronger with the extra torque from the added boost.
    The converter PI sent is way too loose. It stalls at 3200 on the foot brake and 4700 on the transbrake. I requested a converter that stalls at 3000 on the transbrake so it will have to come out. It does slip a bit on the street as it is now.
    As far as the manual shift goes it is not a pain like I thought it would be. I truly thought that I wouldn’t like it and that I would be ending up putting a computer in to control it for auto shift but I can honestly say that it is really good. While the stock shifter doesn’t have a lock that prevents it from shifting from 1st into 3rd, it’s not easy to mess up and do so. For those that like rock solid stops you might consider a ratchet shifter. I love the stock stealth look.
    Since I do have manual shift the fixed pressure can cause a little bit of a hard shift on the 1-2 shift. It’s not bad though and it’s acceptable to me. I can see some people not liking it for the street and think its too harsh. You might want to ride in a car with a manual valve body first before choosing it.
    Lockup and overdrive can come on a little aggressive when activating them depending on the throttle position and RPM. Since my converter is a bit loose it is slipping a bit so the speed of the converter and the speed of the transmission can be quite different at times. I try only to lockup while I’m in 4th gear on the highway around 60 mph and no throttle. I’ve gotten it down to a nice routine when driving now. I activate lockup in low rpms and it engages nice and uneventful. One thing that you have to be careful with is to not shift gears while you are in lockup. It will engage very harsh if you do so. So the only time I engage lockup is if I know I will be cruising in 3rd for a long time where I won’t be doing a gear change. Again its something you will get used to and get a feeling for.
    This is a must for Cobra owners over the 600 rwhp mark that wants the ultimate reliability. It is a very streetable and reliable setup. The conversion is not cheap no matter how you spin it. I spent $5766.32 in parts. I was able to recoup $1700 for my T56 parts. So that put me in the hole 4 grand. Yes, this is a lot of money but you always get what you pay for. I did not skimp on anything and I got the most robust transmission that you can get. You might opt for a $400 used transmission. I have heard some guys being able to scoop up a 4R75W for 500 bucks. That can save a considerable amount of money if you can find a good low mileage 4R75W or if you can build your own transmission. If you have a core you can pick up a remanufactured 4R75W from Ford for $850. This is essentially a new transmission with a warranty.
    You can also save money if you are not making a tremendous amount of power and get a single stage lockup converter. Lidio is a firm believer in the stock Mach 1 converter and he is using one in his setup that’s now making over 600 rwhp. One thing that would add to the cost of the project would be a computer to control the transmission for auto shifting. The Baumenator and harness is about $550. A Mach 1 processor is cheaper but is a bit involved with the wiring. You may very well need to have a professional install these systems and have them tune it just right. Even though I spent $5700 on this project, it would have only been $1500 if I didn’t waste the money on the 3 clutches that didn’t last any decent amount of time.
    I know that Lidio does this conversion for around $5000 complete with parts and labor. What that gives you is a 4R70W with a better valve body and improved clutches, a stock shifter, and a baumenator.
    Master parts list
    Parts are broken down in categories
    Transmission parts
    Lentech 4R70W Street Terminator plus with transbrake and manual valve body $3100
    PI 3 Stage lockup 9.5 torque converter - $960
    1R3Z-7210-AA - Shifter assembly: $125
    XR3Z-7E395-AA - Trans shift cable assy: $40
    F6SZ-7007-A - Lower bellhousing cover: $28
    2R3Z-6068-FJ - Transmission crossmember and isolator: $35
    XR3Z-7B229-AA - Brkt-trans kickdown cable: $13
    F6ZZ-3F719-AC - Cable asy-ign shift interlock: $45
    E43Z-7B415-A - Stud-tr gr sh conn rod adj: $5.50
    XR3Z-7A228-BA - Fill tube for tranny fluid: $15.83
    XR3Z-7A020-BA - Dip stick for fill tube: $19.37
    F2UZ-7H183-A Plug for the mechanical speed sensor $6.50
    TCI deep sump oil pan Summit $79.95
    F1DZ-7H181-A - Fitting-trans shft actuator: $6
    Subtotal $4479.15
    Bellhousing bolts $50
    Bolts for the crossmember to the chassis - $8
    Bolts for the crossmember to the transmission $6
    Transmission line fittings - $16
    Bolts for the flexplate must be purchased from Ford - $16
    A bolt for the speed sensor
    A bolt for the mechanical sensor plug
    Subtotal $96
    Driveline parts
    1R3Z-4841-EA - 4R70W driveshaft yoke for tranny tailshaft: $75
    F1VY-7986-A -Converter housing cover: $6
    Performance Automatic SFI 8 bolt flexplate. $186.00
    11/16 driveshaft spacer from Steeda, $65.00
    Front U joint – Napa – Precision 448 - $25
    Rear U joint – Napa – Precision 448 - $25 (needed if you are running IRS)
    E9SZ4851A Rear end flange $23.36 (needed if you don’t already have this bolt pattern)
    E8VY4782A Rear yoke for driveshaft $18.69
    Subtotal $419.05
    1L3Z-7H103-AB - Speed sensor: $22.31
    F7LZ-7F293-AB – Digital range transmission sensor (aka shift position sensor) - $50.00 Make sure you get the kit with the spacers and bolts.
    1999 GT 4R70W wiring harness $75.
    Subtotal $147.31
    Misc parts
    3R3Z-2455-AA Mach 1 Brake pedal assembly GT - $70.00
    3R3Z-6304567-AAB - Bezel out of Mach 1 $175
    B&M HiTek transmission cooler with fan - $209 at Summit
    Tranny cooler lines and fittings, Auto Zone $40.00
    Autometer phantom trans temp gauge – Summit $64.95
    Push button switches for OD and lockup $8
    Wire 12 gauge, 14 gauge, and 16 gauge wire $50
    (4) VIA-808237 30 amp relay Summit $5.95 each
    378377-S - Plug button for firewall hole 1.38 dia: $1.91
    Subtotal $624.81
    Parts Summary
    $4479.15 Transmission parts
    $419.05 Driveline parts
    $96 Fasteners
    $147.31 Electronics
    $624.81 Misc parts
    Total $5766.32
    Reweld the 02 sensor bungs $75
    Install transmission, and dipstick $250
    Install shifter and pedal assembly $300
    Total $625
    Other 03-04 Cobra Owners 4R70W combo’s
    Here are some combo’s of other Modular Ford readers combos. Their handle name is at the top.
    PA Performance Race Built 4R70W (Horsepower by Hermann spec)
    Valve Body:
    Full Manual Valve Body with Trans Brake, Electrical Overdrive
    Stall Converter:
    2800 RPM foot brake Stall
    3500 Trans Brake Stall
    4200-4500 Flash Stall
    Electronic Lockup
    Stock Mach 1 w/ OD button now used for Reverse and Lock-up.
    LenTech strip 4R70W
    Valve Body:
    Full Manual Valve Body, switch for OD
    Stall Converter:
    2850 RPM Stall ,non-lockup
    B&M Hammer console rachet shifter

    The car drives like a video game! footbrake with 2000rpm, lift brake and floor it.......awesome leap! the rachet shifter stays in the same place, you just keep the car floored and bump the shifter at each shift easy and much better than the clutch problems, no chatter of the DFX clutch, no gear noise from the shifter, and never miss a gear it!
    It was kinda hard. the shifter must be designed to go on the floorboard and our Cobras have a build up for the shifter boot to bolt down to on the t56. I really didnt want to cut and weld, so I removed the shift indicator light, which I didnt like anyways, and lowered the black plate you see at the bottom of the boot. I readjusted all the moving parts on the shifter for smooth shifting ( from bending the braces holding the top steel shelf that you can see) then redrilled the holes to fit in the clips that the lower boot was bolted on the t56.
    Then I had to put the Mach1 shifter bezel on and heat it with a heat gun while pressing down on it until it formed to fit the new all came out looking awsome tho, and man does it shift great!
    the shifter only moves about an inch forward for upshifts and back for it is always in the same place, not like the stock Mach1 shifter at all......I love the is impossible to miss a gear! ( and I needed that, lol)
    The red covered safety switch beside the shifter is the overdrive......I also put an LED below it to make sure I know when it is on......
    I also have the Steeda N02 panel in the cupholder with LEDs on the dash beside the radio, the top one(green) is N02 armed, the next one down (red) is N02 spraying and the bottom red one is bottle heater on..........
    I also on the A piller by my gauges have a red LED that comes on if there is a lean condition above 3000 rpm and leaner than 12.2.......I cant watch the gauges during a pull and this allerts me
    PA Performance Race Built 4R70W (Horsepower by Hermann spec)
    Valve Body:
    Full Manual Valve Body with Trans Brake, Electrical Overdrive
    Stall Converter:
    2800 RPM foot brake Stall
    3500 Trans Brake Stall
    4200-4500 Flash Stall
    Electronic Lockup
    Stock Mach 1 w/ OD button now used for Reverse and Lock-up.
    I actually have my switches in front of the shifter. I bought some carbon-fiber lookalike safety switches that mounted to a black metal plate, and this plate mounted over the cup holder closest to the shifter. I have a carbonfiber switch in place of the coin-holder as well. That one is not hooked up to anything yet, but probably will end up being a switch for some sort of DataLogger.
    4R70W, red Alto clutches, 300m shaft, and some other bits and pieces
    Valve Body:
    OEM Ford with off the shelf shift kit
    Stall Converter:
    TCI single disc with 3000 stall
    Electronic Lockup via the Mach 1 PCM (I command the converter to unlock when my foot is on the floor)
    Stock Mustang GT w/ factory O/D selector switch and functionality
    If Ford made an 03-04 Cobra with a solid rear and auto trans, that's pretty much what I have. The Mach 1 PCM controls my Terminator motor and the 4R70W trans. When I'm at the track, I simply turn the O/D off, wait for the green light, leave from idle, and reel in 10.50 time slips......OK, 10.60's are more typical.
    Lentech 4R70W Strip
    Valve Body:
    Automatic valvebody, Electrical Overdrive
    Stall Converter:
    PI multi-disk lockup 2800 RPM Stall
    Stock Mach 1 stuff
    Trans will be controlled by a baumannator TCU.
    PA built Herman Spec'd 4R70W
    PA full manual valvebody
    Electronic O/D
    Electronic Lock-up
    Precision Industries triple disc lock-up converter
    4000 flash stall
    2800 footbrake stall
    4500 Transbrake stall
    Shifter is a B&M Pro Ratchet mounted mid console
    Shifter plates are by me!
    Transbrake is wired in to the clutch position sensor, and the pedal has a return spring on it! So yes...I use my clutch pedal at the line to engage the transbrake....and dump it to launch!
    Built a bracket off the deadpedal (footrest) and mounted a foot switch (old style headlight dimmer switch), and wired my O/D to one side of it so I can click O'D with my foot. Lock-up is a switch mounted on the front side of the console compartment....just below the lid which is an easy reach!
    I mounted my Pro Ratchet (full ratchet...described as a video game shifter) backwards.....which allows me to pull back to up I liked the position better this way, and I can bump nuetral at the end of a run!
    My shift pattern is this with revers, and park being locked out with the small red handled lever.
    The 3 LEDs in the bezel in front of the trans temp gauge are indicators to indicate:
    RED = Transbrake engaged
    AMBER = O/D engaged
    GREEN = Lock-up engaged
    1. Single PT-76 (Gt42-76 now)
    2. Lentech strip terminator w/ Full manual Valvebody and transbrake
    3. Lentech 10" 2800 stall Non-lockup converter.
    4. B&M Hammer Shifter
    No problems to date!!! called lentech ordered everything and gave them specs on the car, the converter worked perfect and i've never had a problem with it.
    After the first 150 miles, the transmission oil and filter need to be changed. What I did was change the oil twice to completely flush the break in oil out of the system. When you drain the oil you will only get about 6 quarts of oil depending upon which pan you use. The system holds about 12 quarts. So the extra drain flush is needed. When you change the filter you need a new pan gasket.
    I use the following Napa parts
    1-8618 Pan gasket
    1-7796 filter
    I also use Valvoline Mercon 5 non Snythetic oil.
    Special Thanks
    I would like to thank the following people for their help in this project. Their help gave me the confidence to go through with it and make it easier than it had to be.
    Steve Boing
    Jon Lund
    Lido Iacabelli
    Ken Kruse
    Jack Miller
    Bill Jackson
    To discuss this article, please click here.
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