Mustang and Ford Performance Forums banner

Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
See less See more
5
#472 ·
For those untrained eyes here is the same pic Joe posted but with dye penetrant to highlight the crack;

Wood Paint Hand tool Material property Brush


The dye penetrant makes the crack identification easier. For those who are block aficionados you will quickly recognize the block in the photo as one of the FRPP Aluminator blocks.

Even in the Aluminator blocks the amount of material at that location in the block is insufficient to withstand the tensile loads of ARP 2000 studs in the 100 ft/lbs and up torque category. What you are seeing is an ultimate strength failure in the block casting.

85ft/lbs is a very happy place to be when you are using ARP2000 studs.

Ed
 
#473 · (Edited)
Thanks, Ed. I actually saved that picture as well, but just ended up using the one without the dye. All bases are covered now!

I also forgot to mention that I downloaded the Fuel System Calculator, so I'll be fiddling with that as well (even with everything on the conservative side here). For anyone that hasn't checked it out, of which I may have been one of the few, here's the direct link in the TToC: Fuel System Calculator.

It was definitely very cool seeing it live, and in action!!
 
#475 · (Edited)
Funny you mention that, Jon. After I made the post, I started digging around to see if I could find the connectors themselves, then stumbled on the IS&T website as well. I was glad to see they also sell the harness, but did not know AEM discontinued it since they are still listed in several places. Good to know! At least the other site does still have them, and the price is in the same range, so that helps. Now I just have to dig back behind the kick panel to see how much room I'll have to work with if I do go this route.

If you do want to share any pics, that would be great. I notice the one they show is just for the EEC-IV, but that is fine. Glad to see those guys still around - I remember them from the Fox Mustang days back in the '90's! For now, here is screen shot from their site:

Rectangle Font Screenshot Number Circle


Also found a vendor on eBay that lists 10 of the AEM version in case anyone needs one right away:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-30-2980...ash=item568179a159:g:KtcAAOSwX~dWpABX&vxp=mtr
 
#477 · (Edited)
Thanks for the pics, Jon. From looking at the engineering numbers on each connector, it made me realize that someone willing to take some time could actually build one of these harnesses on your own. The same company had a listing for the male end on eBay right here for $60:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250909352242?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I also found these for $5 each. The engineering number ends in -AB rather than -AA, so I don't know if if that makes them incompatible, but it could be worth picking one up to examine (I'll keep digging in to this).

http://www.connectorpeople.com/Connector/FORD/F/F5SB-14A464-AB

The female end is theoretically the problem, but the engineering number makes it standard for all these EEC-V's. I think you could buy a junk EEC, remove the connector and wire it up after some modification. I've seen a lot of the computers on eBay also for around $25, so it might be possible to make this a DIY project quite inexpensively. Of course you have to do the labor, but the bang-for-the-buck factor might be pretty high.

Here's a decent picture of an EEC-V circuit board, so it looks like the connector is removed and trimmed so the wires can be pinned to it.

Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic component Electronic engineering


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT - again...

Here's a better picture of the female connector (found them on eBay for $20 each):

Circuit component Rectangle Electronic component Electronic engineering Gas


It looks like some work with a dremel would be needed to trim the back of it (like the one Jon has), but it could be perfectly usable by just pulling the pins from the back and leaving the entire body in tact as it appears AEM did.

Here they are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Amp-F5...7b0e3d&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=10&sd=121556213184
 
#478 ·
You could also just cut one off a junkyard harness and depin, then repin it yourself.

I had to do that with the factory harness connector in the engine bay (in the corner by the passenger side hood hinge) after the dealership overtightened that bolt and cracked the connector.
 
#479 ·
That thought did cross my mine, especially since I saw a harness end on eBay for $20. Since the new connector might be available for less than that, might grab one of those. If I decide to do this, just have to pick up some bulk wire (20 Gauge GXL like in Jon's up there) and pins, then it really should be a straightforward job. I mentioned to Ed that it may warrant another Build Thread, albeit a small one, but this could work out great for anyone that is willing to do it themselves.
 
#483 · (Edited)
Doing a bit more scrounging about these PCM connectors, and managed to acquire a tech drawing of the harness end connector from the OE supplier. The one I was able to get my hands on is the version with the engineering number that ends in -AB (F5SB-14A464-AB), but it looks to be identical to the -AA version that Jon has. These can be had for about $5 each from thew company that I linked a couple of posts back, but with a lot of these places, you have to place a minimum order (it's only $25 with them, so that isn't as extreme as many).

The drawing is two pages with info on all the pins as well, but here is a screen shot of part of it just for reference (it definitely has 104 pins still):

Rectangle Slope Line Schematic Parallel


Also, here are the pins used for the COP's (circled in black) and switched power (circled in blue) as an FYI. On the left side, from top to bottom, it's 6-5-4-8, and to the right also from top to bottom, 1-3-7-2. Switched power is pin 71.

Product Rectangle Font Art Circle


I'll have the chance to stop by my local Ford dealer tomorrow to ask what may be available through them, but if they charge a ridiculous amount for one, it may be worth snagging several through the other source and passing them on to guys here that may want to try this. Since these plugs really are inexpensive, and bulk wire shouldn't be that pricey, it is entirely possible to build one of these yourself for much less than what they are available for out there. Now it's just a matter of verifying the pins, and hopefully John (and Jon!) will have some details there shortly.

If this all seems to be too much of a pain in the neck, I'll just use the connectors that John supplied with the Vampire and splice them in. It's still probably going to take some effort to wrestle with the wire bundle, but if someone really wants to build this extension, at least the options may be out there.
 
#488 · (Edited)
Had a chance to fiddle with the PCM connectors for a bit this afternoon and found them fairly easy to work with. The one for the computer end (with the bolt) is one that was hacked off a junkyard car, so some of it was pretty brittle, which means it will become scrap. I have four new ones coming, and those should be here Monday. If this turns out easy enough, I can probably make a few more of these and sell them off, or let someone snag the components from me if they want to build their own.

The female end from the previous page is one I got on eBay. The vendor showed that he had 43 available, but the auction wasn't up the last time I checked. In any case, this end can also be removed from any scrap PCM. The pins just pull right out after the two small covers that secure them are lifted off. Here is the connector showing one cover lifted off with one of the pins removed (they are an interference fit and pull right out):

Composite material Electric blue Fashion accessory Laptop accessory Engineering


I think the pins I can use to replace these will look like this (in a photo and drawing), but until I get my hands on them, I won't be sure. These pins and at least the PCM connector (shown in Post #483) are made by Tyco, by the way.

Engineering Auto part Metal Nozzle Gesture


Rectangle Font Parallel Schematic Plan


From what I saw in Jon's picture of the harness he bought, the pins for this end will be a real tight fit. This would also mean that each of the 104 holes here will need to be drilled out slightly so the wires will feed in. If the pins above are not the correct ones, I'll figure that out soon enough and hopefully will be able to make this worthwhile.

Here is the junk PCM end that I pulled apart, and it's a cinch to work with. The new ones I acquired are coming with the female pins, and once they are crimped on (using Molex pliers), they pop right in.

Circuit component Composite material Rectangle Passive circuit component Engineering


Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Electrical wiring Electronic engineering


In the picture above, the cap on the end that covers the blue rubber gasket is not shown since it cracked in half as I was pulling it off (easy to do when there are wires in the way!). If you are fitting the wires in the bare end, they will slide right through the gasket, then the cap will snap in to place. Here is the other end, without its cap, showing all the pins:

Circuit component Typewriter Office equipment Passive circuit component Audio equipment


This is what the pin looks like on the wire when it is pulled out (did this to verify that I'll be getting the correct ones):

Pen Office supplies Wood Writing implement Stationery


As an FYI, the original pins from the PCM fit like this (you can see the small barbs on the pin that gives it the interference fit in the plastic). Fortunately, the connectors slide together very easily, so there isn't much of a chance that one of these pins would push back out:

Office supplies Wood Writing implement Ball pen Stationery


Here is a picture of that end as well as a drawing (the pins in this case are shown as four on a tree that obviously have to be snipped off):

Font Circle Auto part Metal Composite material


Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Technical drawing


I'll have a bit more on this probably next week, and if it works out, I think these harnesses can definitely be a DIY project for about $50 and an hour or so of labor.
 
#489 ·
It will take more time be a little aggravating but I recommend putting a small shot of solder on each pin after they are crimped. That small cup between the pin and the crimp joint is a perfect spot. This will offer the connectivity and conductivity of each circuit. The wire will break before the solder fails if done right.
 
#492 · (Edited)
I'm with John on this one. No soldering necessary if the correct crimping tool is used.

Those are the same kind of pins I used when I built the harness for my race car and recently the harness for my new fuel tank. I used the S&G 18980 master crimper set, worked like a champ and comes with lots of various jaws to swap out for different connections.
They are pretty similar to what I used not too long ago to build the harness for my Recaro seats: all Molex connectors that function the same way. The crimping pliers are simple, but they definitely work. Also using them to make a small harness for the gauges going up on the A-pillar.

Here's the one I have (this place is also a great source for wiring, connectors, etc.):

http://www.parts-express.com/crimp-...source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
 
#494 ·
Providing these "-AB" connectors are an exact match, if I keep the one, you can just have the other three, Jon. These guys had a minimum order of $25, so four connectors and the female pins covered it, which was not a big deal. If there are guys that want one of these and don't feel like building it themselves, you could have a nice side-venture. Once I have the correct male pin (I think it has a 0.040" diameter, but I'll double-check), I will be able to put a final list together of what will go in to them!
 
#496 · (Edited)
Jon might be the man to talk to there. I probably will build one for myself and hopefully get the information all together for anyone else that may want to tackle it. On that note, the connectors and female pins that were supposed to arrive on Saturday seem to have taken a detour and are temporarily MIA. Hopefully the USPS tracking info will update again tonight, but the box went through Philadelphia on Friday and never left. Will have more as soon as I can on that.

In the meantime, I did accomplish some other electrical projects: wiring up the gauges on the A-pillar, and adding an oil pressure sensor. While I had intended to go with the Speed-of-Sound pod, the wiring on the back of the wideband gauge would have probably made the use of that difficult, if not impossible. Instead, I went with the AutoMeter version, which when painted, still looks pretty decent.

Here's the new setup with the Innovate gauge as well as the Interceptor, both wearing white faces (I had a silver SVT face on the Interceptor when it was on the steering column, but had to choose between black or white now):

Motor vehicle Automotive design Gauge Vehicle Mode of transport


Since I went with dual wideband sensors, it meant running the mid-pipe up to a local shop so they could add a sixth bung (this one on the right side now), but that wasn't a big deal. Hopefully it won't be coming back out again any time soon.



The last addition was a much-needed oil pressure sensor, courtesy of AeroForce. Their kit is plug and play since you use one of the existing analog pins on the back of the gauge (they supply the harness for this). You wire it in with a 5V converter (AeroForce also sells it), then basically just plug it in and set up the gauge to read the value. Even easier, there is an un-used port near the factory oil pressure sensor that is perfect for the addition. Since the port is 1/4 NPT, you have to acquire some adapters (the sensor is 1/8 NPT), but that is easy.

All hooked up. The wire was run up under the brake booster and fed through the adjacent wire harness grommet.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive fuel system


Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the O2 sensors calibrated, program the Interceptor for the oil pressure sensor, then get it set up so it cycles between oil pressure, fuel pressure, coolant temp, and volts. I still have another six or so weeks until it's driving time, but I'm sure the Vampire will be in before that time!
 
#498 · (Edited)
It did: the engine starts and idles smooth as stock. I think the first start was a little bit tappy since there were still passages that oil needed to reach, but it smoothed out in short order(I cranked the engine with the accelerator to the floor for about 20 seconds to prime it). I'll admit that I was a bit nervous about the "big" PTW, but it turned out perfectly. Now I just have to wait for spring so I can actually get on the road.
 
#499 · (Edited)
The other ends of the harness finally made it today, along with the female pins for it. Even with the slightly different engineering number, they fit perfect, and I can't find anything different about them. Here's the stuff all together so far:

Rectangle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Plastic Metal


I haven't had the chance to look up the male pins (again, 0.040" diameter), but will hopefully work on that soon. If those pan out and I then pick up some bulk wire, I'll most likely make the harnes 8-10" long so it can be tucked in a bit easier. I also got a note from the eBay vendor that they have more of the PCM connectors that are $20 each.

Here they are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/14191965580...op=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_nkw=141919655807&_rdc=1

If those eventually run out, the only option will be to pull them off of dead PCM's, but that won't be too hard either. So far, I'm only in to this for about $50 (with the extra harness ends), so I still think these can by built for about that price once the wire is factored in and assuming the other pins can be sourced. Still have about another month or more before the weather starts getting nice up here, and will stay optimistic that this deal and the Vampire installation will be all wrapped up before then.
 
#501 ·
Thanks, Jon. Almost wish this didn't all come together so fast since I still have plenty of wait time until I'll be getting behind the wheel (snowing again here today). Anyway, I'll try to track down the male pins for these connectors today, and once those are sourced, this will be an easy project for future Vampire users.

Also as an FYI for anyone that has installed an oil pressure gauge, got to test mine out yesterday. Since the temps were in the low 30's, I plugged in the block heater for a few hours (brings the coolant up to around 100° before the engine is started) and fired it up. The oil pressure was in the high 80's initially, then stabilized around 55PSI after a few minutes. Again, this is the Shelby HV/HP pump that was originally sourced for the 3V engine. No issues with the Motorcraft filter, but I may go with one of the reusable versions just to be on the safe side (have to hit up Ed for the info since I think he had a source to get one of them for a great deal).

Otherwise, the engine is running ridiculously smooth. Vampire install will definitely coming soon.
 
#503 · (Edited)
This site had the best pricing on the screw on style w/o the Pure Power remote Joe, Click here => Kartek. If you go with the Pure power remote it uses a slightly different attaching style for the filter element to the remote and adds about $200 to the purchase proposition. In fairness the NASCAR HP-6 remote mount is going to cost about $200 (or more) anyhow so buying the whole smash directly from Pure Power might just be the short way home.

This is a link (click here Pure Power) to a thread where Joe (BlownBlu97) and I show photographs of the Pure Power remote and filter. Joe's filter is the screw on style that uses a standard NASCAR HP-6 large diameter racing nipple mount. Mine is the same thing but using the Pure Power remote mount instead of the Peterson unit. BTW the Peterson unit Joe uses has a very attractive priming feature for cars/engines that are not used regularly. It allows you to spin a small oil pump that is built into the remote with with an electric drill and extension to prime the engine prior to starting - very cool idea!

Joe's review with excellent pics begins at post #9. My post showing the Pure power remote and corresponding filter starts at post #17. They also make the same filter style for OEM sized mounting nipples. If I were going to take the step to use this filter I would definitely use the big NASCAR HP-6 or Pure Power remotes. These are way impressive filters. The Kartek guys are easily the best retail pricing.

Ed
 
#505 ·
Thanks, Ed. I meant to ask you when I was out that way but it slipped my mind. I'll check out the thread and then will get one ordered. I'm sure the OE filters would be fine even up to 100PSI, but so sense in rolling the dice when I'm close to that figure. Even better, I like the idea of re-using it and never having to toss filters out again!

Any links to these guys having issues? I just installed mine.....
That would be interesting to see, if in fact there is truth to it. From what Travis has mentioned many times, he has a lot of his pumps (and gears) out there, and none have failed. I had complete confidence in his product when I ordered them.
 
#506 · (Edited)
Okay, ended up ordering the "standard" PurePower filter. I went ahead and called PurePower just to verify the thread size on the OE filter, which is M22-1.5, so the one to get is the PP8433. Since I am leaving the filter in the stock location, I figured this would work, although the HP6 that Ed listed would be great if the remote mount comes in to play. Very cool stuff for sure.

With some rewards points, I snagged it from Amazon, so it ended up being $230 shipped - not too shabby. I may go ahead and pull the Motorcraft filter so I can drain out enough oil to send a sample to Blackstone (have been using them for years), or I'll just wait and put a couple hundred miles on this oil before draining it and installing this new filter.

If anyone is curious, here's the PP8433 in all its glory (well, a representative photo, at least):

Automotive tire Cylinder Silver Font Gas


The finer points:

Jaw Organism Font Jewellery Magenta


And the link right to their site for this particular filter: PP8433

The spending of money on these engines just never ends...
 
#508 · (Edited)
Aluminator Gibtec build

Brown Lighting Tableware Material property Audio equipment

, sweet piece! For sure.
 
#509 · (Edited)
Absolutely no progress made on the Vampire or PCM harness this week due to a full load on the work and home fronts, but I'll get back to tracking down the male pins next week (hopefully). Have a call in to the company that made the pins and harness end, so I'll keep my fingers crossed that they get back to me shortly.

In the meantime, the new oil filter showed up, so I took a few minutes out of my Saturday to put it on. Before I did that, I had to get some comparison shots with my usual filter of choice, the Bosch 3410. The Bosch filter is the same size as the Motorcraft version (3-1/2" tall with a 3-1/2" diameter), whereas the PurePower filter is a bit slimmer (4" tall with a diameter of 3"). Some side-by-side pictures for the heck of it:

Drinkware Liquid Fluid Drink Solution


Liquid Cosmetics Lipstick Material property Battery


Wheel Door Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system


The billet filter is definitely a work of art, and I made sure to disassemble and reassemble it with oil on the o-rings. I lost a bit of oil when the "old" filter came off, but I made sure to pour some in the new filter before I screwed it back on (that should be the norm for everyone). I also wrap the steering rack with aluminum foil before I pull filters so it creates a small river to the oil pan so I don't get oil all over the boot and caked on the housing. A couple comparisons of the filters in their space:

Automotive tire Coil Coil spring Gas Automotive fuel system


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Vehicle


Obligatory reminder not to toss it (not sure who would need it, but apparently the lawyers felt it was necessary), along with cleaning instructions:

Plant Water Tree Font Wood


Nice bling shot from above:

Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle


Made sure to idle the engine again for a bit today, and with the "cold" oil pressure over 110PSI at start-up, I'll feel much better now with the billet filter. Hopefully within a few more weeks I'll actually be able to take a spin now that the weather is getting nicer, but as smooth as the engine is running, I'm sure I will be extremely pleased at how this project has turned out (dyno time and another updated tune in the works as well).
 
#511 ·
Aside from how well they work, I also like the appearance they have on the engine. Very nice choice, Joe. :thumb:

Ed
Form and function, Ed - you can't beat it! With the cold oil pressure at over 110PSI at start-up, I'll feel much better with the billet case now. When the first oil change comes up, I'll also look forward to seeing what the magnets in the filter grab as well. Overall, another great investment for these expensive engines!
 
#513 ·
Of all the billet gear set alternatives out there right now, I believe Boundary is the only one that has no reported failures. If anyone has specifics about a failure we should look at it. Absent a known instance of failure the, 'I thought I heard of a ....' type story only damages someone's reputation with innuendo and rumor. Not fair play and certainly not the way to encourage entrepreneurs to spend their time and money to help us.

Again if anyone has a known instance of failure they can document lets have a look.


Ed
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top