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Boss Intake Blower Dyno Test

8K views 45 replies 19 participants last post by  RectalRampage 
#1 · (Edited)
Going to be hitting the dyno wednesday evening to baseline the car on the new engine.

We'll be dropping it off on the way home at Rigid Race Cars in Williamsburg, OH to get the intake tube fabbed up thursday morning then we will try to head back to the dyno thursday evening.

I'll post up #'s as soon as I have them.

We will be following up with some JPC head / cam dyno #'s as well within 2 weeks after the boss intake install.

Those #'s will be for a 5.0 Article and you'll have to wait on them though......
 
#3 ·
The intake i've seen pick up around 55 rwhp up top. I'm real curious how it does on a blower car. I gotta think it's gonna be nasty!

Finish Line who has been doing my install work, put one on the guy that works next doors car. Has tune, exhaust, and my old 4.10's, and he said from 4500 up was quite noticably faster.
 
#4 ·
Going to be hitting the dyno wednesday evening to baseline the car on the new engine.

We'll be dropping it off on the way home at Rigid Race Cars in Williamsburg, OH to get the intake tube fabbed up thursday morning then we will try to head back to the dyno thursday evening.

I'll post up #'s as soon as I have them.

We will be following up with some JPC head / cam dyno #'s as well within 2 weeks after the boss intake install.

Those #'s will be for a 5.0 Article and you'll have to wait on them though......
Wow!

Welcome to 1976!
 
#11 ·
What is the difference between our ECM and the one in the Boss?
 
#15 ·
Hit the dyno. With 10 to 1 motor. 17-18 degrees of timing and a very calm 11.0 a/f. The car peaked at 13psi at 7200 where we let off. Peak power was at 6600. Boost at 6600 was 11 psi. 585 rwhp and 486 ft/lbs.

With the motor still fresh. Going to keep everything mild and the dyno with the Boss intake will be with the exact same tune. We'll then see if anything needs to be changed. This motor is pretty good at keeping itself where you command though.

The first run was 10 minutes off the street, and the 2nd run was just a few minutes after that. No real cool down time. Both runs were within 3 rwhp and 4 ft/lbs. Very impressed at the consistency. The boss runs will be hot off the street as well.

I'm very excited to see the results.

I'll put the before dyno up in the morning.
 
#26 ·
The first run was 10 minutes off the street, and the 2nd run was just a few minutes after that. No real cool down time. Both runs were within 3 rwhp and 4 ft/lbs. Very impressed at the consistency. The boss runs will be hot off the street as well.

I'm very excited to see the results.
Aww ok..i was going to say..maybe i missed where you said that..
no prob!
 
#23 ·
So this is with the boss and without the boos..Cause if so i will save my money. Cause if so you gained what 4hp lost 3tq...at peak.

That or it will be one that last mods..Just to squeeze out more on bottom side/low rpms.
 
#27 ·
Alright,

With the boss intake we made 612 hp and 501 ft /lbs of torque.

That was a peak pick up of 27 rwhp and 15 ft/lbs.

Pretty happy with that. That was with the exact same timing as the before run. Very Very conservative.

We lost down low, but the power carried out better. I'll have graphs scanned tomorrw. Peak power also moved from about 6600 to about 7050.

Decided to throw a little more timing at the car. We saw about 20 degrees and power jumped to 645 rwhp, and 518 ft/lbs. Peak power moved to about 7200.

We added 4 degrees (most i could add through the xcal) and put the car at 22 to about 7200 and then 21 to about 7500. Figured we'd lean a little bit on the car, I think it's still plenty safe at an 11.0 a/f ratio. FYI, all runs stayed exactly at 11.0 a/f! Car does what you tell it to! Very nice!

Peak power moved again, up to about 7350 rpms.

We were rewarded with a very nice 698 rwhp! and 542 ft/lbs. Not too shabby through an automatic car!

:)

I'll have lots of graphs to scan in tomorrow. I have the rpm breakdown numerical graphs, that way you'll be able to see low end loss numbers as well.

Up for this weekend, R&R the fresh engine for some JPC heads and cams, no numbers til the 5.0 article comes out though.
 
#28 ·
Nice results. Can you post a comparison of the two intakes on the same graph?
 
#35 · (Edited)
Boss before and after graph with same timing, same boost, same a/f

Below 4100 tq is down, and below 4800 hp is down.

Peak hp pickup of 27, at 7200 the car is up about 50 rwhp though.

Peak tq pickup of 15, at 7200 the car is up about 30 ft/lbs

 
#39 · (Edited)
Blowing the tires off is fun, if you don't want to don't use as much throttle (driver mod) or run around on wider stickier tires.

When you are cruising at 2,000 RPMs in a PD car its nice having that extra power with out downshifting for quick smooth passing or inclines. No aggressive gears needed either to take advantage of the PD power band which means your turning lower RPMs on the highway out of boost which is good for your MPG and your motor.

AutoX or Road Racing? Its also nice having that low rev power band out of the corner.

Roll Racing from an awkard MPH lower in the rev range? No problem here either.

2nd gear burn outs or strong launches? No need to drop the clutch at a higher RPM to achieve boost/power (which is easier on the entire drive line due to less shock load).

Didn't mean to turn this into a centri vs. PD argument, but those are just some scenarios where plain old low end TQ/Power comes in handy on a street car and other types of racing.

Back on topic...

$0.02
 
#42 ·
Blowing the tires off is fun, if you don't want to don't use as much throttle (driver mod) or run around on wider stickier tires.

You can blow the tires off on any of these blower cars

When you are cruising at 2,000 RPMs in a PD car its nice having that extra power with out downshifting for quick smooth passing or inclines. No aggressive gears needed either to take advantage of the PD power band which means your turning lower RPMs on the highway out of boost which is good for your MPG and your motor.

So your saying that the PD blower gets better mileage because it's lower in the RPMS?

I disagree again. In the throttle, because it's a PD blower, it's going to use more fuel at lower rpms if your in the throttle, because you are in the boost, if your in the boost your using fuel.

I am running a 3.55 gear in my car and it is more than enough. If you call that aggressive, then I'd hate to see what you call a 4.10 or 4.30

I have always gotten worse mileage in my PD cars. Just a heads up, i've had 5 PD cars before. So i'm no newbie by far.


AutoX or Road Racing? Its also nice having that low rev power band out of the corner.

Roll Racing from an awkard MPH lower in the rev range? No problem here either.

2nd gear burn outs or strong launches? No need to drop the clutch at a higher RPM to achieve boost/power (which is easier on the entire drive line due to less shock load).

again, disagree, i can do a 2nd gear burnout with no problem. I don't know about you. But when I"m doing a burnout i try to get it as close to the upper rpms as possible. I'm not nancying around trying to only go for 4500 because I have a PD blower, lol

Didn't mean to turn this into a centri vs. PD argument, but those are just some scenarios where plain old low end TQ/Power comes in handy on a street car and other types of racing.

Back on topic...

$0.02

and again, your not justified in your responses.
my .02!
 
#41 · (Edited)
Severe Heat soak with an efficient setup really only occurs when you are standing still after loading the motor (staging lanes/hot laps, red lights after racing, extensive idling, etc...).

With air constantly moving through that radiator during a road race or oval course, and an efficient blower/liquid cooling system its not that bad.

A 2.9L Screw on 10 PSI is hardly breaking a sweat to begin with.

I ran a liquid cooled M90 Heaton setup with about a half gallon of coolant in its loop, and even it didn't get THAT bad unless it was under the conditions mentioned above (which is a very poor efficiency system).

It wont get bad enough to drop the low end power below the centri setup.

Ive done 5 or 6 back to back 5th gear 150 + MPH dyno runs with minimal cool down and a shitty box fan (we knocked the high CFM snail off the lift) to prove it if you want to see it.

I had temperature probes in my coolant loop as well.
 
#43 · (Edited)
I am no newb to centri vs. PD setups either... Or turbo... Or Nitrous... Or... Meth/Water Or E85... Or some of them together :-D.

Ive installed both, & ive driven both on multiple platforms (not on 5.0).

Ive found that a pattern certainly emerges - that pattern is that each compressor technology has its own set of attributes, those attributes really don't change much from application to application (as long as everything is setup correctly).

I am not going to argue back and forth in your thread about PD vs. Centri, all centri owners will argue the same things, as well as all PD and Turbo owners.

Each setup has its obvious attributes and is better at certain things.

Your torque/power curve on your dyno graphs show how it performs and where; its easy to apply this information to how it drives if you have no experience with the setups, and if you do.

The mileage in my PD cars if im driving casually hasn't been unusually different then the stock N/A mileage.

You can stay out of boost if you chose to do so.

When are you gonna break 140 traps with that thing beef?
 
#45 ·
Agree with most of PDB statements

"AutoX or Road Racing? Its also nice having that low rev power band out of the corner."

Back on topic...

$0.02[/QUOTE]

Like heck it is! Much more than 400-450 ft lbs of torque in 2nd gear and you get messed up real fast coming out of a tight corner. My 03 Cobra was much easier to drive and faster with the wimpy Eaton vs. Whipple on giant AutoX course.
 
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