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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know it's been covered and i searched but usually gets jumbled with other info and hard to follow. I need to know the following..

1. Stock fpdm, Single Bap, 2-gt pumps, pprv. will this work.
2.what size fuel line do i need to install for the pprv delete and what are the metal clamps actually called?
3. could i say it is as easy as
drop tank, remove hat, break off plastic clip on connectors, remove old pumps, install new pumps, install new lines and clamps, reconnect wiring without the plastic clip, reinstall hat.
4.i've heard of the wiring upgrade for the fpdm is it as easy as running a new power supply wire between the source and the fpdm power input to allow more voltage. if so can someone tell me the gauge wire and where the source wire terminates and which wire it is on the fpdm?

thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
ok a i found the step by step write up on the wiring upgrade... good by the way... but do i need to wire the BAP in before or after the fpdm?
 

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You can also use two fpdm's instead of an upgraded one and make the wiring harness or buy one from Lethal.
 

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>> 1. Stock fpdm, Single Bap, 2-gt pumps, pprv. will this work.
No. 1 stock FPDM cannot reliably support 2 GT pumps. A single FPDM is good for about 18A. 2 GT pumps can pull 25A. You risk sending a stock FPDM into thermal shutdown.

>> 2.what size fuel line do i need to install for the pprv delete and what are the metal clamps actually called?
Many have and would recommend 3/8" 30R10 fuel line. IMO, 5/16" works better and fits the pump nipples and hat nipple better. 5/16" hose also bends better. Clamps are fuel injection clamps found at any decent auto parts store.

>> 3. could i say it is as easy as
drop tank, remove hat, break off plastic clip on connectors, remove old pumps, install new pumps, install new lines and clamps, reconnect wiring without the plastic clip, reinstall hat.
Not quite. You'll have to do some trimming to get the GT pumps to fit the stock hat. Plus, running GT pumps with a stock hat has caused issues. Either the stock wiring heats up or new wires run through the hat are not sealed properly. IMO, if you are going with GT pumps, get a Fore hat at the same time.

>> 4.i've heard of the wiring upgrade for the fpdm is it as easy as running a new power supply wire between the source and the fpdm power input to allow more voltage. if so can someone tell me the gauge wire and where the source wire terminates and which wire it is on the fpdm?
Here is some info mainly on my dual FPDM harness, but it can also answer your questions.

If anyone is interested in going dual FPDMs on their own, here is a bit of info on how to do it. (Of course, there is a cheaper way, which is to tie into the factory harness with another FPDM plug. That would only take minor tweaking to my info.)

Other than securing the blue shrink tubed wires (pair going to the 2nd fuel pump) with tape, this picture is my completed dual FPDM setup.


This is the actual harness itself. I went through a lot of trouble making the harness as plug-n-play as possible and without cutting a single factory wire. You don't have to go through this kind of trouble though.


This is a pin-to-pin layout of my harness. If you wanted to tie another FPDM plug to the factory harness, you can picture the same layout without the "connector to factory FPDM plug." As you can see, it only takes splicing 2 wires on the factory harness. One splice is for the PCM signal, and the other is to tie in the relay for power straight from the battery. The other wires from the 2nd FPDM (in red) can go straight to the 2nd fuel pump. Also, don't confuse my labeling of the FPDMs as Master and Slave. One FPDM does not drive another. I only label them that to identify which one uses factory wires and sends duty cycle into to the PCM, and which one uses additional wires.


This is the pin labels for the factory harness. I have also included my edits for my harness assembly.


This is the schematic of my harness, edited from the one found at 03 Cobra Fuel Pump Upgrades.
 
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