Joined
·
6,795 Posts
It has never made sense to me that one car has issues with blowout, and another doesn't.
My first thoughts are to verify grounds and the RF noise connections on the back of the head are all as they should be. A while back, I had an issue that was a pain in the ass to diagnose. The car would idle fine, putt around with easy driving fine, but the second you went WOT, the car would just stop. After PCM swaps, COP swaps, etc. I found that the crank position sensor connection was goofed. It's a weather pack-like connector off the engine harness, and somehow one of the metal "spades" had pushed out of the connector just enough to lose connection during hard acceleration. It was dumb luck that I found it because you could barely tell, but once I saw it I knew that was the problem. So check your crank and cam sensor connections well.
I ended up having to drop to a NGK 8 gapped at .020 to cleanly pull on the dyno. You really sound like you've covered your bases well, I'd try a plug swap after ensuring all grounds and connections are good.
My first thoughts are to verify grounds and the RF noise connections on the back of the head are all as they should be. A while back, I had an issue that was a pain in the ass to diagnose. The car would idle fine, putt around with easy driving fine, but the second you went WOT, the car would just stop. After PCM swaps, COP swaps, etc. I found that the crank position sensor connection was goofed. It's a weather pack-like connector off the engine harness, and somehow one of the metal "spades" had pushed out of the connector just enough to lose connection during hard acceleration. It was dumb luck that I found it because you could barely tell, but once I saw it I knew that was the problem. So check your crank and cam sensor connections well.
I ended up having to drop to a NGK 8 gapped at .020 to cleanly pull on the dyno. You really sound like you've covered your bases well, I'd try a plug swap after ensuring all grounds and connections are good.
