Reverse Lockout Solenoid - Tremec T56 - Page 2

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  1. #16
    Member Array 96-mustang-gt's Avatar
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    I am wondering if nobody else could build a device like GRC's.
    I am not an elecronics d-i-y expert myself but I imagine it cannot be that hard... and the cost of producing those is probably in the range of a few bucks per piece only, so at $ 99 there is quite a profit margin in there... any soldering experts??

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  3. #17
    Senior Member Array Taz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96-mustang-gt View Post
    I am wondering if nobody else could build a device like GRC's.
    I am not an elecronics d-i-y expert myself but I imagine it cannot be that hard... and the cost of producing those is probably in the range of a few bucks per piece only, so at $ 99 there is quite a profit margin in there... any soldering experts??
    LOL It would cost more than a "few" bucks. The plastic hobby box would cost you that much. But parts would run you well under a hundred dollars, and there shouldn't be any rocket science involved in coming up with a circuit to duplicate this functionality. Here's one grossly oversimplified possibility.

    The OSS is a Hall-effect sensor, right? You'd need to know the voltage vs. speed characteristics for that sensor. Specifically, what is its output voltage at 3 – 5 mph?

    You could use that as the switching voltage for a circuit that energizes the primary side of a solid-state relay.

    Then, you could connect an ignition-switched 12V source to the input of the relay's secondary side, and the lockout solenoid to the normally closed contact of the secondary.

    Such a power circuit would deliver 12V to the lockout solenoid whenever the ignition was on and the OSS voltage was below the threshold required to energize the relay, i.e. below 3 – 5 mph. Once the OSS voltage exceeded the level necessary to close the relay, voltage at the output end of the normally closed relay would drop to zero, locking out reverse.

    The one obvious problem with this simple circuit is that it isn't failsafe. By that, I mean the solenoid would remain energized all the time if the relay craps out. That's unacceptable from a controls standpoint, so you'd need some watchdog circuitry in addition to what's outlined above.

  4. #18
    Member Array 96-mustang-gt's Avatar
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    Thanks for that detailed explanation.
    I still believe that such a circuit could be produced for significantly less than $ 100, leaving enough margin for the seller. (that may be "LOL" or not...)

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  6. #19
    Senior Member Array Taz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96-mustang-gt View Post
    Thanks for that detailed explanation.
    I still believe that such a circuit could be produced for significantly less than $ 100, leaving enough margin for the seller. (that may be "LOL" or not...)
    No argument there. As I said, the parts would run well under $100. By the same token, making the them for "significantly less than $100" is not the same as knocking them out for "a few bucks per piece."

    With respect to the level of complexity and the parts complement, I've built similar gizmos in the past, and I'd estimate the raw parts cost would be in the neighborhood of $20 - $25 for each unit in small quantities (500 or so). To that, you'd need to add assembly labor costs, documentation costs, and packaging, not to mention an amortized cost for your R&D time.

    In small lots, someone might end up netting perhaps $50, maybe even $60 profit on each unit. Certainly "enough margin for the seller," but nowhere near enough to cover that vacation property on Maui. LOL

  7. #20
    Senior Member Array gregscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taz View Post
    Sounds like a GREAT project! Being a card-carrying AARP member, I certainly remember the Studebakers. The '53 2-door HT Commander is one of my all time favorite body styles.

    I don't think changing the REV lockout over to the solenoid style will be any big deal, but you'll probably need to swap out the tail housing for one of the newer ones.

    Best of luck with the project.

    And who would think that Mustangs are all kids stuff, from one AARP member to another. Great web site, I just spent two hours, much to the digress of others. You wouldn't happen to recall the supplier or dealer you used for the exhaust manifold coating. I would go into detail about this project but I am trying to keep the
    time/space thing to a minimum. Also you answered a ton of questions without even knowing.
    Greg

  8. #21
    Senior Member Array Taz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregscott View Post
    And who would think that Mustangs are all kids stuff, from one AARP member to another. Great web site, I just spent two hours, much to the digress of others. You wouldn't happen to recall the supplier or dealer you used for the exhaust manifold coating. I would go into detail about this project but I am trying to keep the
    time/space thing to a minimum. Also you answered a ton of questions without even knowing.
    Greg
    Thank you, sir. I appreciate the kind words.

    To answer your question, I applied the thermal barrier coating to the manifolds myself. I had planned on having Jet Hot do it, since they're local to me, but they're way too proud of their work ($$$). I used a VHT product called Flameproof. Three coats, with an oven-based heat cure after each.

    This is the stuff ...

    VHT Flameproof Coating

    I picked up two cans at Auto Zone for less than $12 per can, but I imagine it's available at most auto parts stores.

  9. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdman941 View Post
    AC Delco number 12101857 for reverse lockout pigtail for those who may need one.
    Thanks for that...I just got to that part of my project and found out that the pigtail that American Powertrain sent me was the wrong one.

  10. #23
    Senior Member Array gregscott's Avatar
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    I figured Mark would come through with a solution sooner or later.
    http://accutach.com/default.aspx

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    Guys I think the easiest and cleanest solution is simply cutting a coil and a half off the spring in the reverse lockout housing. This is what I did with mine and the reverse now works just like the TR-3650. No goofy switches or buttons, extra wiring or hacking into the wiring loom.

  12. #25
    Junior Member Array 03ZM1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregscott View Post
    I figured Mark would come through with a solution sooner or later.
    http://accutach.com/default.aspx
    I know this is a dead thread, but i don't find that to be a "solution" because you still have to activate a switch at some point. I just bought an 03 zinc mach today and it doesn't have any lockout. I figured this out when I tried fourth to fifth and was met a nasty grinding sound, "well thats reverse then eh?" were my thoughts lol. There has to be a better way to do this, anyone figured that out since this was active?
    Last edited by 03ZM1; 10-13-2010 at 12:49 AM.

  13. #26
    Senior Member Array gregscott's Avatar
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    No lockout on a 5 speed (T3650) only the 6 speed (T56)

  14. #27
    Junior Member Array 03ZM1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregscott View Post
    No lockout on a 5 speed (T3650) only the 6 speed (T56)
    Yeah, I guess I should have clarified its now a six speed. I would have to be an idiot to hit reverse in a five speed though.

  15. #28
    Senior Member Array gregscott's Avatar
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    The lockout is active (lockedout) until the solenoid is engergized by a 12v signal, from a push button with some sort of time delay.

  16. #29
    Junior Member Array 03ZM1's Avatar
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    My car doesn't have the lockout though, I imagine the guy that owned the vehicle before me took the solenoid off and tapped the hole and put a plug in it like some people in this thread had suggested. An auto car has a lockout type mechanism in the shifter itself right? Well never mind I was just thinking, I suppose the button on the shifter is how that lockout works lol. I thought I had an idea.

    I wouldn't think it'd be impossible to get it to work like it's suppose to, without having to press a button(with a timer), or removing the solenoid altogether.

  17. #30
    Senior Member Array gregscott's Avatar
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    Almost impossible without removing the trans too

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