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Aluminator build

9K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  explict 
#1 ·
Hey,
I've been a creeper on this forum more than anything. But I thought I would post my build up anyways!

Engine:
Ford Aluminator 3V 4.6L
8.7:1 CR
Forged aluminum 16cc dish 3 valve pistons
Forged steel crankshaft
H-beam connecting rods
FRPP Oil pump
ARP Head Studs
ARP Crank bolt
Ford head gaskets
P&P Heads with BBR stage 2 cams
Whipple 2.3L GENII Twin Screw 10psi kit
Whipple Inter-cooler
Fluidyne heat exchanger
Bosche water pump
Canton Ice box
Steeda pulley tensioner
BMR Tubular K-Member
Steeda 10rib belt drive (11-13psi)

Fuel System:
63# Injectors
Ford GT dual fuel pumps

Exhaust:
Mac axlebacks
Mac Prochamber midpipe
BBK LT headers
Custom midpipe connectors

Suspension:
BMR Lower control arms
BMR LCA relocation brackets
BMR adj. Pan-hard bar
Eibach Pro kit
Tokico D-specs

Drive-train:
TR6060
Shelby shifter/black ball
Spec 3+ Clutch
Coast 1 pc. Al Drive-shaft
8.8 rear with 4:10 FRPP gears
CHE Driveshaft loop

Wheels+Tires:
Saleen replicas 18x9, 18x10
BFGoodrich gForce KDW 245/40/18 and 265/35/18
M/T ET Streets 26x11.5x17

Misc.:
SOS triple Gauge pod
Autometer Fuel pressure gauge
Autometer Boost gauge
AEM Wideband O2
XCal2, Procal and Diablo tuners
N2MB 2-step no lift shift
Granatelli line locs

Appearance:
GT500 Front splitter
GT500 Rear spoiler
VIS 2.5" CF Cowl hood
35% tint front 2
Limo tint rear 3
Tinted front signals
Painted rear Faux gas cap
Sequential tail lights

There may be more..

Here is the engine ready to go in the car


Here is the motor just after being put into the car


The car is idling perfectly with the FRPP Whipple 10psi tune. I have not yet drove it and will not until the roads clear up. I'll be getting Eric Brooks to tune it.

Here is a video of the start up.
 
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#8 ·
Looks nice! You've definitely got some clams wrapped up in that. On that 10 rib belt drive...could you measure the distance from the front edge of the 6 rib belt to the front edge of the 10 rib so I can find out how much farther forward the new belt will sit? I'd appreciate that.
 
#10 ·
I have about 3'' left to go forward. Take a look at my hood in this pic. The vent in the hood has my stock Whipple pulley 3'' behind the vent sticking up through the lower layer of the hood duct. Looks like I may have to go 8 rib with this hood.

Thanks for the measurements...I appreciate it. Steeda couldn't tell me over the phone. Gus didn't know.

 
#11 ·
If I understand your description correctly the blower pulley is 3-7/8'' out farther now???

Just to be sure because I have room for the tensioner to stick out more, just not the blower pulley.
 
#16 ·
Are you sure about this?
 
#15 ·
Well I FINALLY got my GT500 TB today. I am going backwards I swear!!!

Put it on, first thing I noticed is that the fuel line is scrapping off of it. This is due to the taller 60lb injectors. So I bought Fore Precision fuel rails from Lethal! so the fuel intake comes off the front of the rail instead of the top. I can also change the fuel pressure sender location so the intake is not sitting on the sender the way it is now.

Second problem is that the TB does not fit!!!!!! I will probably try switching the TPS over from the stock one to the GT500 one and see if it works! (Stock one is 1/4"-3/8" narrower!) Anyone done this?

I also have another project on the go on the inside of the car. But that is for another thread!!!!!!!
 
#19 ·
The reason I ask is I have a ram air hood with an air duct and I had to cut a hole inside of the duct so my pulley can poke up through. I have 3'' more I can come forward before I'd have to cut where the hood's vent is. Look at the pic posted and you'll see the vent opening in my hood. My 6 rib pulley sticks up through the lower layer of the hood if you look inside of the vent opening (can't see that in pic). The pulley is exactly 3'' behind the vent opening.

 
#22 ·
I went WOT in second from about 2k - 4k rpms and let off. Then I heard a strange noise. Doesnt seem to be any damage to anything besides the pulley, and the snout. I officially don't trust this kit. Looking at the pulley it seems like there is much too much downward force on the snout pulley. And the cheap mild steel allen bolts used in the kits don't seem to have enough tensile strength. (they are also all rusted on my kit)
 
#23 ·
The kits are made in Steeda's facility in Valdosta Georgia I believe. Mine show no signs of rust at all. I'm using the 16 psi setup and have done many WOT pulls with no issues. Keep us informed about what Steeda says.
 
#24 ·
Can someone who has the belt drive do me a favor and go see if there are markings on their pulley bolts? Also if there are markings on the bolts attaching the machined piece that goes around the snout and the snout clamp piece. The Steeda guy told me all the bolts are 12.9, but 12.9 is not written on any of my bolts. I just though of this..
 
#28 ·
I have the same Steeda kit with 13-15psi pulley. My pulley bolts says 12.9....
Forgot to check the snout clamp though
 
#25 ·
They should have 12.9 stamped right on the end. 12.9 is one tough metric bolt.
 
#29 ·
Never buying a Steeda product again. In fact, I am looking for an excuse to get rid of my Steeda products I have right now.

WORST customer service of any company I have ever dealt with. They hardly ever pick up the phone, did NOT answer any e-mails until I sent them nasty ones. To which they responded they are not going to do anything about it and I can buy new parts if I want. **** I am pissed at them right now.
 
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