For those readers just coming to this thread, I have moved it from Allen's (Broke7) thread about broken timing chains because it was hijacking Allen's thread and I was the hijacker!
Ed
Keith, Scott and other interested folks,
I have attached several pictures of a crank modification I have recently done to correct some of the problem. The challenge we face with a larger bolt is the tug it places on the snout. When we tighten a bolt it clamps the damper and internals (gear, & timing wheel) to the front of the crank by exerting pressure on the components and squeezing them against a crank snout shoulder just in front of the oil pump drive journal. Essentially what the big bolt solution I used to use does is try to pull the snout straight forward off the crank.
I have come up with an interim solution that uses a stud that anchors in #1 main journal and sandwiches all the pieces without puling on the crank snout. I will do another post just on this technique in a week or so and include a second article on building your own dual disk clutch. For now here are some pictures of the parts and the process.
Here are the ARP parts needed:
This is the crank set up in a lathe ready to drill the stud hole:
This is the tapping step while the crank is still in the lathe:
And this is the finished crank:
When you have completed the modification the entire package of goodies on the front of the crank will get sandwiched between the nut and washer on the front of the crank and #1 main journal, making for a very tight and durable assembly. I've got to go back to my notes and check but if my memory is correct the torque on the 9/16 stud/nut package is about 165 or 170 ft/lbs and the clamp load on the package is more than double the stock clamp load - without any attempt to pull the crank snout off the crank.
I've got to see a vampire about a blood test right now so I'll get back with the other details when I return later today.
Ed
Keith, Scott and other interested folks,
I have attached several pictures of a crank modification I have recently done to correct some of the problem. The challenge we face with a larger bolt is the tug it places on the snout. When we tighten a bolt it clamps the damper and internals (gear, & timing wheel) to the front of the crank by exerting pressure on the components and squeezing them against a crank snout shoulder just in front of the oil pump drive journal. Essentially what the big bolt solution I used to use does is try to pull the snout straight forward off the crank.
I have come up with an interim solution that uses a stud that anchors in #1 main journal and sandwiches all the pieces without puling on the crank snout. I will do another post just on this technique in a week or so and include a second article on building your own dual disk clutch. For now here are some pictures of the parts and the process.
Here are the ARP parts needed:
This is the crank set up in a lathe ready to drill the stud hole:
This is the tapping step while the crank is still in the lathe:
And this is the finished crank:
When you have completed the modification the entire package of goodies on the front of the crank will get sandwiched between the nut and washer on the front of the crank and #1 main journal, making for a very tight and durable assembly. I've got to go back to my notes and check but if my memory is correct the torque on the 9/16 stud/nut package is about 165 or 170 ft/lbs and the clamp load on the package is more than double the stock clamp load - without any attempt to pull the crank snout off the crank.
I've got to see a vampire about a blood test right now so I'll get back with the other details when I return later today.