Well it's time for a rebuild. - Page 2

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  1. #16

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    Block is back from the machine shop. Knieriem Racing in Louisville took care of the machining. Also got some parts coming in. Pics below. Heads are from Fox Lake fully ported navi heads with bronze guides and ferrea valves. Pistons are set zero decked to deliver 9.5/1 static. I opted for the anodized with coated skirts. I upgraded my old h13 tool steel pin from JE .150 wall to the Trend h13 .185 wall. There was nothing wrong with the old pins they checked perfect but I'm looking to make more power. Total seal rings. ACL rod and main bearings.

















    And some arp side bolts.




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  3. #17
    Member Array SvtLightning02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLK_03 View Post
    Wow. Bent the rod.

    Waaaay too much boost and timing for the octane.
    agreed!!! i run 18* with c16

  4. #18
    Moderator Array NeverEnuff's Avatar
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    Im gonna have to get home and look at these pics. sounds like a good combo..but pump gas on 9.5:1 with a can of torco isn't going to do it on 23lbs.. That needs race gas...

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  6. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by screwonbudnik20 View Post




    +1 on what Matt said^

    I meant to say something about this pic earlier but somehow didn't do it.

    You should carefully inspect that rod for heat damage to the pin bore. If the aluminum is just a spattering on the OD of the pin end you are OK. Clean it off use a little scotch brits to clean it up and you are ready to go. If you put any significant heat into the pin end you should consider replacing that rod with a fresh one.

    The last thing you need (or want) is a pin end rod failure. When they fail up there the damage is massive - especially with a forged billet rod. The rod will swing around on the crank pin while the engine runs and will essentially act like a weed wacker inside the block destroying everything in its circular path. When you see an engine failure like that it is beyond anything you would expect or have ever seen before.

    The cost of one rod is small in comparison. BTW if you have to replace it, when you replace it give Manley the total weight and the end weights. If you get the right guy on the other end of the phone he can get you amazingly close weight-wise to what you have right now.

    Hope you don't need to do this.


    Ed

    p.s. I just noticed you do not have bushed pin ends on your rods. This means that probably is not a Manley. Regardless of manufacturer you really want to have bronze bushed pin ends - it is just more reliable.
    Last edited by eschaider; 07-19-2012 at 11:58 AM.

  7. #20

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    These are the rods.
    They are bushed.

  8. #21

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    What was the rod w/o a pin bushing?

  9. #22

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    May have just been the way the pic looks all the rods are the same.

  10. #23

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    Well I decided to take a break from the truck for a while,but I think it's time to put it back together. Let the games begin.





    Last edited by screwonbudnik20; 04-27-2013 at 09:59 PM.

  11. #24

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    Well the part I dreaded most is done. I really hate the spirolocks.


  12. #25
    Senior Member Array Madferraristi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLK_03 View Post
    Wow. Bent the rod.

    Waaaay too much boost and timing for the octane.
    Quote Originally Posted by SvtLightning02 View Post
    agreed!!! i run 18* with c16
    Did you not notice that this is a 4v Engine? They are much more detonation resistant than a 2V. In mine, I run 20* with nothing more than a single can of Torco with my 91. Been running it that way at 15-16 psi for 7 years and 45k miles.

  13. #26

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    It appears I have the wrong main bearings. On hold again.

  14. #27

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    Waiting on my degree tools now.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  15. #28

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    Tools are here!!!
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  16. #29

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    Getting ready to install the heads.

  17. #30

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    Very nice work on the ports. Did you do it or did you have someone do it for you? Either way it is very, very nice!

    I can't tell for sure from the photos but if those are four thread plug holes take a few more hours and put eight of the Lock-N-Stitch inserts in to prevent an unwanted spark plug blow out later when it will be more painful.

    Nice looking heads. Whose valves, Manley or Ferrea?

    All the best on the build.


    Ed

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