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Blown up 4.6 rebuild questions and promblems

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Agent01Mustang 
#1 ·
Ok so i put stage 2 hitech cams and a stall conveter on my car this last winter, but recently it dropped a valve and i really dont know why. When I took the motor apart the cam sprocket was loose and it have a chunk missing on the inner side and the cam keyways looked spread a little. So what happend.. I dont get it i know i tightend it to spec. Also i am building a new motor with comp stage 2 cams and springs they are real tight but i hope they fit but i got the put on and degreed but the motor turns over a little hard (i think) how do i know. and will these cams work and how to prevent what happend last time. cause it gets real sickening screwing with it i need dependability.
 
#2 ·
Those cams are on the edge of fitting in the car. YOu need to install them between 114-115* ICL-118-119ICL. THats about the only place they will fit. The lower the ICL the better, but with the LSA and duration/ramp rate on these cams, you will get PTV contact easy. Ive done these cams in a lot of cars, THE second time, from ppl/friends/customers, saying thier car sounds 'loud' after the cam install. Come to find out...the person that 'knew what they were doing' or said they did...really didnt'. Just installed them and didnt degree them. more times than not, 270s are going to contact without degreeing them and backing them off.

While I recommend getting a checker spring and degreeing the cams in and checking the PTV clearance...I do also know that without valve reliefs and stock heads, stock deck, stock valves and stock tye...they will clear at 114-115* ICL. Any lower than that and you risk contacting pistons. I think that ICL puts you in the .045-.050" clearance...which would be all the tighter I would go.

Hope this helps.
 
#3 ·
plus one to never ^ he knows his s--t and i think they sell a offset retainer to avoid coil bind maybe that you need to check your spring hieght good luck mullet99
 
#7 ·
You dont need adjustable cam gears, just file/grind the key way the direction you need the cam to move. I do this in all my builds and it works and works well. Just please please remember to TQ the cam bolt to the proper spec AND use loctite. I do it this way and NEVER have had a valvetrain/cam related failure. I spin my motor to 8k...so yeah. I did the math a few years ago. Every .004-.005" you take off the keyway on the primary cam gear (the only one for a 2v) it will give you about 1*, depending on which side you take off on...

And if that still isn't good enough, the 00 Rs didn't even have keyways on thier cam gears...;)

Grinding/Filing keyways is cheaper than adj cam gears. SO get out your degree stuff and your dremel and go to town.

Good luck
 
#5 · (Edited)
find top dead center number 1 piston 0 wheel and rotate crank with dial indicator on intake valve rotate crank till the highest record number stop turning . zero dial indicator start turning crank till first measurement at .050 lift record degree on wheel rotate crank again forward till you hit .050 again and record degree add two together divde by 2 walla thats you ICL then you see where your at and if you need to advance or retard there is slop in keyway if you need more file sprocket gear and re measure 101 that will be 20.00 thanks mullet GL heres a link and youll be good >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>http://www.modularheadshop.com/Articles/cam installation.htm
 
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