SVE Vs. SR Performance

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  1. #1

    Default SVE Vs. SR Performance

    Ok, so I went to the strip last friday and I ran 12.53 @109mph with a 1.8 60' and 8.0 1/8th. I really wanna do a brake upgrade and suspension upgrade and bump to a 150 shot to try and get my 60' down and shed a lil off my times. So my big question is what brand is better SVE or SR Performance, they are both cheap and I have heard good reviews I just want an improvement from stock, which both will do I just wanna know which will be the best bang for my buck!!! So please help, also I know hawk performance brake pads are awesome but has anyone had any experience with their rotors? My launch was a lil soft due to I can only launch at around 12-1300 with footbreak before rolling forward, I have nitto drag radials so I have no problem spinning just need a way to hold back so I can do a 17-2000 launch ;) (and trans brake is a no-go with my tranny, no one makes a good one, and no im not switching to manual. I love my auto and 4.10's!!!)

    - - - Updated - - -

    suspension ie. upper and lower control arms, sub-frame connectors, and shocks and struts. I already wanna get H&R springs

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Array Sharad's Avatar
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    Jan 2011
    Fort Myers, Florida


    I'd recommend UPR Products, because our suspension is Made in America, it carries a Lifetime Guarantee, we offer a forum discount, and our parts work really well.

    On a side note, I've used Hawk's Quiet Slot rotors on my car and they worked well. Lasted a long time too.

  4. #3


    Trust me I am well aware of UPR and love your suspension products but its just a lil more than i wanna spend right now. I might just save and get them but if I can hear anything good (or bad) about the two I listed above. I really would like to buy one of them just cuz its more my budget but I just wanna know which one is better, if any lol. Thanks! Also I was looking at power stop brand slotted and drilled rotors on any info?

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  6. #4


    Nitto drag radials suck. MT or Hoosiers if you want to launch it. brakes wont do anything for your et. IMO why replace them when its not needed. Just switching rotors and pad wont bring on miracle braking. Swap out to cobra brakes minimum. You hoping that the brakes will allow you to foot brake more and bring the rpm higher? Just get a 3000 rpm stall put in the car.

  7. #5
    Senior Member Array JCG1's Avatar
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    May 2005


    thanks speedtospare, I was trying not to break bad in ANOTHER of his threads.

    tfulton: you don't need suspension mods or brake mods. I mean, feel free to spend $$ - but that's not going to remotely effect your ET or short time - you won't get ANY bang for those bucks.

    You don't say you're going up in smoke off the line (far from it, your problem is probably that your TB increase and oversized MAF and injectors - and tune issues - have caused the modular's craptacular low-rpm flat spot to be more pronounced). You don't say it's launching funny, or rolling over, or diving to one side, or skating around at the big end causing you to lift . . . in short, nothing that would make anyone think your problem was that you needed suspension mods. You're not making enough power. Your PROBLEM is you got alot of rar (4+ if I understand from your other posts) with no converter on a stock motor with the typical "fall-flat-on-your-face" flat spots that makes you THINK the problem is that your launch is too soft and you need to load up more. I'm betting you launch, it bogs, then the nitrous kicks in and you take off.

    AND FINALLY, have you TRIED not loading up on the brake for your launch? I know that alot of folks recommend doing the brake-torque thing on the line, but let me just tell you as someone with alot of experience with computer-controlled 4R70w-equipped modular fords (albeit in the panther chassis and tbirds - which are not really different than a 4R modular equipped SN-95) as that crowd is pretty much by definition stuck with the autotrans, they tend to try whatever they can do to improve their short times (because raising the launch rpm isn't available without a converter swap). Most of those folks (including me) have found that launching off the brake actually HURTS et as opposed to launching off idle. Again, I do know that alot of Mustang folks advocate the brake-torque start, I'm just saying that my experienced with computer-controlled 4R-equipped modulars is that you actually hurt your 60' time trying to launch with the rpm's raised by loading up on the converter/brake. BUT it's something you should experiment with - your results might differ (though I bet not).

    You need a converter upgrade, THAT's for sure, but as I think I mentioned in another post, you need your other motor mods first - so you can get the motor on a dyno and have an actually informed idea about your powerband and where the motor is peaking.

    Finally (and I know, I'm sure I said it before) going cheap means you got inferior parts. End of story. You get drilled rotors and continue to try to use them to hold the car in place for your launches and they'll eventually crack from the heat/stress. Just sayin.
    Last edited by JCG1; 08-27-2013 at 04:27 PM.

  8. #6
    Senior Member Array 04Ryan's Avatar
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    Nov 2009
    Chattanooga, TN


    JCG1 is not load the converter unless it's a turbo car trying to leave off a foot brake. The reason leaving off idle works better is whats called "flash stall" vs "brake stall". With flash stall you have the inertia of the engine rpm's rising at a rapid rate that will actually cause the converter to flash at a higher stall. Even supercharged guys with auto's found this out years ago. You won't find one Lightning guy that leaves with the converter at max load...they all leave from idle. I tried this in my supercharged Harley F150 and went from 1.89 60's to 1.77 60's.

    BTW...skip the H&R springs if you plan to drag race a lot. They are way to stiff and won't allow for weight transfer...I've had 2 personal friends with H&R's swap them out with Eibach Pro's or cut stock springs and they both dropped their 60's compared to what they were with the H&R's.

  9. #7


    ok sweet. appreciate the info. I will definitely try the idle launch for sure, No one has ever mentioned that nor have I ever seen it done (atleast not that I know of) as far as suspension, I wasnt 100% sure but I was pretty sure upgraded control arms would keep it from squating as much, if i am at all. which would improve 60' times. The brakes are not the issue for my launch as much as they are that I need new rotors and brakes period haha. I definitely want a new stall just need to do more research first and possibly a trans expert opinion. I want to wait also until I get cams and I also plan on upgrading to a new intake manifold that I can have more confidence in using nitrous. Now im not sure but I have been looking into going to a single turbo setup this winter and ditching the nitrous, opinions on this? have heard to NOT use nitrous with turbo and I see why but I have also seen where people use a small shot using a window switch to use at launch to eliminate lag, but if I get a setup that gets full boost at 3k and get a stall for 3k or bigger I shouldnt have that problem, right? Info greatly appreciated

  10. #8
    Senior Member Array JCG1's Avatar
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    May 2005


    post a vid of a couple launch's (from behind the car, just off the right rear corner of the bumper but making sure the whole rear is visible) and I'll tell you what, if anything, might be going on with the "launch" as far as suspension etc is concerned.

    and keep track of ets and lanes across one night of test n tune, try to do 3 runs each way in each lane (3 leaving off the brake at same rpm. 3 leaving off idle) then compare. You need to do the SAME things the SAME way. If you're going to go in an do a burnout (and frankly, I'd drive around but that's just me) do it the SAME way EVERY TIME. If you drive through (and bring water up to the line in your front tires and whatever doesn't boil off during the stock-autotrans-limited burnout) do it every time. Now mind you, I say drive around the box completely (since you're probably having a hard time actually heating them properly in your car) or if possible drive around (keeping your front tires out) and back in - but if you can't do a serious burnout (lots of white smoke pouring out the wheelwells before you let off and drive through) -and many stock autoequipped 4.6's cant - you should NOT be putting water on your tires before you launch - but again, that's just me.

    oh, and also, if the guy behind you is running something serious, I GUARANTEE he's back there going "drive around, drive around, don't drive through the box, don't drive . . . . SH#T . . . ok, keep going, smoke, smoke, smo . . . DAMN IT, I'm going to have a wet starting line, stupid damn stockers . . ." ok, that was just test-n-tune night humor.

    You might find that a little slip would do your et's a wonder of good. I still be you're bogging like a MF in those radials in a stock 4.6 with no converter and 4's

    a proper turbo setup isn't going to have lag problems that would lead to thinking about needing some sort of low-speed nitrous hit. If you're racing fulltime - or building a show machine where you're not really going to run the thing anyway - I suppose you could go the multiple power-adder route, but why otherwise?

    and you need to wait if you're going to do that OR get cams before you spec out a converter
    Quote Originally Posted by tfulton11b View Post
    if I get a setup that gets full boost at 3k and get a stall for 3k or bigger I shouldnt have that problem, right?
    no, not right. common misconception. though understanding how converters work/are rated IS pretty close to quantum mechanics.

    ok, that's a joke, it's not that complicated, but it's FAR more misunderstood than it is properly understood.
    First off, a converter doesn't have a fixed "stall speed", it's in essence a function of the power (curve) of the motor. Same converter will "stall" at different speeds on different motors. I've said this before - to do this properly you have to have a good idea of where your motor produces peak torque.

    and to use an example, if you were to set that based on a turbo setup - and then go F that all up by running some sort of nitrous shot early on in the rpm range - you would alter the torque curve of the motor and potentially render your otherwise properly spec'd converter a pos that kills your short times (or throws daily drivability out the window). You have to keep in mind if you drive the car regularly that a bigA converteris going to in essence slip considerably, heat up fluid, etc. That plus your 4+ in the rear is also going to make gas mileage interesting.

    you need a freakin plan, not stuff off the top of your (or someone elses, worse) head


    supercharger (and if super: Centri or Pos Displ)

    If you stay NA (or stay nitrous) and you want to go faster you need:
    higher compression pistons
    forged bottom (to increase rpm capability)

    you might be able to get away with the first two and leave the bottom alone
    you will need high stall converter (and the 4+ in the rear is already perfect).


    you need a forged bottom end for strength (though plenty of folks run boost on the powdered metal crap that passes for rods and pistons in the modular, not me)

    maybe cams
    maybe manifold (if turbo or centri)
    maybe headwork

    (maybe not necessary for sufficient street and strip fun, depends on what you want and are used to in a toy)

    You will not need anywhere near as much converter AND your rar might already be too high (numerically)
    you probably don't need radical cams or heads though you could do them (if centri I suppose you do need a manifold)

  11. #9


    Yes I understand about all the confusion of stall converters thats why I want to get a 100% on "no **** this is what im gonna do" then research it further to find out the perfect supporting mods. I think whether I go turbo or stay with spray I am pretty set on the Edelbrock Victor Jr. manifold, If I stay spray ill keep my 70mm tb, If I go boost I may get the edelbrock elbow that allows my year model to use the foxbody style 90mm tb for more air flow. As far as cams its another issue on which way I go. Im pretty set on the MHS stage 2 cams, whether I get turbo or nitrous cams depends on just that. Next track time I will definitely try those launches you mentioned, although with my 125 shot I am only good for about 6-7 runs then im pretty much empty. Also when I said I heat up the tires before staging, I do not go through the water box, I drive around and do a little burnout in front of it. As far as a video of what you asked for, I will try but this track is weird on TNT days, but I will definitely try as I am curious myself. The nitrous and turbo combo was just something I have heard just getting a better picture of how it works, but I am sure I will ditch the nitrous if I go turbo. I may keep it and just keep the purge and add a intercooler sprayer, purge for intimidation on the street lol and the sprayer to cool the air further. Now are those even necessary or do they even do anything before I would even blow that money, would I be better off on taking that money and spending it on a meth kit instead? I plan on getting turbo and getting tune for about 4-6 psi of boost to make that magic number 400rwhp then do forged internals and then turn it up a bit more. Thanks again!

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