Back with another 4V in an old Ford project. - Page 3

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  1. #31
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    I got the mounts tacked in place and the cross member marked for where I need to notch. I'm going to pull the engine/tranny out tomorrow and get a good real weld on the mounts and go ahead with the notch. Then I'll work on the radiator mount and reinforcement of the core support and hole filling. I'm waiting on some 1.5x3x.125" box tubing for my subs to get in. Once that arrives, I'll but the subs in and reinstall the engine so I can finalize the trans mount setup.

    I really hope the engine and transmission come out together the way I have these mounts setup.

    Pics after I get it all out and welded up.

    Dave

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  3. #32
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    Love it. I just pulled the engine without separating and without pulling the mounts. I was able to do it only by taking the starter off and then it all came right out. It will be a 2 person job to put it in the last time because I was bumping the firewall and that won't be good with paint on it. That's way down the road though. Now on to finish welding the mounts in, clearance the cross member for the pan and fit the radiator in. Then fill holes and smooth and then put it back in for the subs and trans mount. I figured I'd get ahead and do this since I have to wait for the steel anyways. Besides, the mounts may be settled or something different so might as well get them in and go off that.

    More to come and pics........as soon as I clean up the garage a bit.

  4. #33
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    Alright. I got some stuff done. I ditched work for the last half of the day and got the engine/trans pulled, mounts welded in, cross member notched and I got the radiator core support roughly cut. I will clean up the radiator support more but am nervous of using the factory Lincoln radiator. In the pics, you can see where the radiator will sit if I were to mount the bottom mount right on the frame rail. I plan to lower and notch the frame mounts for the radiator but I don't want to cut too low. I'd like to minimize the frame modification as much as I can to maintain the strength. I don't remember how much room there was between the support top and the bottom of the hood. Does anyone know the amount of room there is between them? How far above the core support top can the radiator sit before it hits the hood?

    Anyways, here are the pics..................








    Thanks for any insight guys. I'm hoping to keep the momentum going on this car. The wife is ready to push it off a cliff now though.

    Dave

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  6. #34

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    Dave - My radiator sits just below the core support. I don't think what you have there will fly, plus it'd look ugly if you left it that way... lol

  7. #35
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    This is what I did.

    Attachment 92893

  8. #36
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    Herb.
    I just have the radiator sitting on the stubs on top of the frame rails for now. I plan to cut them down a bit and then go into the frame like you did. I planned to bug you about a better pic of your setup. That link doesn't open but I believe I have the pic you are trying to post.

    Do you have any other pics of your mounts? Did you ever reinforce the rails to core support?

    Thanks
    Dave

  9. #37
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    I will see what else I have. We fashioned a bracket at the top. The lower pins on the radiator were just a little narrower than the two front rails. I have not done anything to the opening where we enlarged it yet. Have not had any time this summer to work on the car.

    - - - Updated - - -

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    Try again. It is in my photo album if this doesnt work.

  10. #38
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    Got the pics. Thanks! My pins are just barely too wide to sit between the rails. Just barely. I'll get started on this tonight!!

    Dave

  11. #39
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    I'm going to start work on the radiator support now but have a question.

    I think I may try and turbo or put a blower on this thing someday because I can't seem to stay away from forced induction. With that, I've been pondering about the guys who mention the old unibody flex issue. If I were to do something like in the pics below, would I be wasting time or would it really tie the car together? I know the one pic is through the firewall and connected to the cage inside but I can find a strong point in the wall and add support plate and weld the bar to it. What do you guys think? I was thinking of keeping it in the inner well to hide it but help support it.






    I'm not going balls out with power but probably around 400-450 or so after it's all said and done. I'm open to any suggestions.

    Thanks
    Dave

  12. #40
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    Radiator mounting is complete and it now sits just below the height of the support top. I trial fit everything and then pulled it out and sprayed on some Ford blue to keep it from rusting over the winter. I'm going to put the engine and all back in, build some subs for it and the trans cross member mounts. Then I'm going to run all the wiring and cables and such. Then get it started, make sure all works fine, and then pull it all apart for final body work and paint.









    Hopefully I can get the engine pressure washed and then in before the end of this week. We'll see.

    Oh, I'm not going to bother with the frame support bars. I've seen enough threads and pics about big block and high HP cars without them. This is not going to be anywhere near them. No hard launching or anything and my subs will be plenty of support for it.

    Dave
    Last edited by Dave R; 09-30-2013 at 07:35 PM.

  13. #41
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    I think the engine looks right at home in there. What do you think?








    The passenger side header went on perfectly fine with tons of extra room. I'm having a hard time finding my steering column bolts that secure it to the firewall through the rubber, insulation and steel bracing. Once I get that figured out, I can get the drivers side exhaust worked out.

    One problem with having the engine sit so low and forward is that the radiator lower inlet is sitting higher than the thermo housing does. The small return line to the reservoir is perfectly level with the radiator outlet. There are a few inches of space so I can get some S shaped hoses and make them work. I had to re-bend the tranny cooler hoses as they are close to the power steering reservoir. Works now. I don't know if that factory air box will work because the 3 slots on the firewall just inside of the passenger headlights are the only places air can come in through. I've considered making more holes behind the lights and around them but I don't want to destroy the structural integrity of the core support. I could just run a cone filter where the box is and hope for the best. Not sure on all that yet. What do you guys think? Will those slots be enough air inlet? Maybe 1 more slot next to them on the outside of the last one?

    I don't know if the radiator overflow is going to be used either. It's big and sits up there a bit. Kind of a distraction really. I could remove the power steering and lower it some but not sure on that. I have a manual rack but might want to go PS if it's too tough to turn for the wife.

    I'm going to get these and the fuel lines figured out and then I'll get to work on the wiring.

    More to come.

    Dave

  14. #42

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    Damn Dave, you're on a roll!
    Looks good. I'd go with a different intake tube and use a cone filter.
    What master cylinder are you going with?

  15. #43
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    I have not decided on the air box yet Dave. I have talked to Spectra and may assemble one using thier parts. I am remoting the battery to the trunk, so I have that area to create an air box and might use the light bucket for the air opening. Again, I have not worked it out. Looking at what kttrucks (Kevin Tetts) and 65wildstang (Tommy Wright) did on thier mustangs (with a lot more hp than what we are doing!) they just have a cone filter set up in the battery area. Not sure if they opened up the radiator support in front of it or not.

    I am using a smaller vertical chrome over flow and not the huge one from the Mark VIII.

  16. #44
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    I planned to initially build my own intake setup with just a filter on the end of the MAF but figured I'd try these parts out to see. It looked like it actually might work. I'll worry about it later.

    As for a MC, I have no idea. I have disc in the front and rear so I'll probably go non power with a p valve from R&C since they have them tailored to their front ends with disc or drum rears.

    I think I'm going to find another overflow that is slimmer and will fit better. I do like the factory stuff all working together in there though. My battery will be in the trunk also for better weight transfer too. I might just make a pocket on the drivers side just like the battery pocket on the passenger side. Then I can put the fuse stuff and the over flow there together.

    I have lots to do. School is starting next week and I also have a basement to build so I might be at a stand still soon.

    Hope not.

    Thanks guys.

    Dave

  17. #45
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    I was going to start on the wiring this afternoon but decided I better get the steering and exhaust and hoses all done before I wire anything. I wish I started on the wiring instead. The passenger exhaust manifold fits perfectly fine with tons of room. The drivers side is a different story though. After getting the steering column and double D bar from the rack to the column, I realized, I HAVE to build the drivers side. Trying to stay on the cheap and simple, I decided to try the passenger manifold on the drivers side. The front portion hit the aluminum coolant elbow just by the oil filter but I could see it wouldn't work anyways. So, I'm going to have to cut the flange mounts off the drivers side manifold and try to shorten it to make room for it to fit with the steering bar in there. While trying to hug the engine like the passenger side, I'll have to do something with the oil dipstick because it is between the middle two cylinder ports. I think I can manage something. I'd really love to get a set of Sanderson headers but I'm not going to pay that much. I want to get these on and make sure it all works with some of the factory exhaust stuff and then when it is all good and running, I'll order up what I need to really make a nice set of headers for it. Then I'll get the real exhaust work done. I just really want to get the engine and wiring settled for now. I'm on a tight budget now that we're looking for another house to purchase and the wife has high priced taste this time.







    The old log manifolds I made for the Galaxie wouldn't even work with the tight space there is here. Those were actually not bad either. We'll see what I do.

    Dave

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