Back with another 4V in an old Ford project. - Page 5

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  1. #61
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    I used an aftermarket fuel pump on mine and the EEC still controls it like the factory. When you turn the key on, the pump primes, shuts off and then runs full time when the engine starts. Your aftermarket pump is probably not designed to be run at variable speeds.
    I don't remember if the EEC has the temp sensor running into it or not. I wired my fans up completely independent of the EEC.
    What are you doing to the wife's bathroom? I am a tile contractor and install a lot of showers.

    Kevin

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  3. #62
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    That's the way I thought the fuel pump works and how I've done a few 5.0 swaps into different cars, the pump did that. The problem is, none of them had this high, low, relays, or even more than one wire from the EEC. This one has Fuel pump monitor (pin 8), Enable fuel pump output (pin 22) and the Fuel flow rate output (pin 34). I'm going to try and go through the manual soon to see which is power and which is just to data ports and triggers for dash readings and such. You are correct in my pump not taking different voltages. I'm going to use a standard 255lph external.

    The EEC has an ECT input (pin 7) and even has Transmission oil temp input (pin 49). Of course the coolant temp one is for different load tables under cold operation but according to the EVTM, the PCM monitors coolant temp, vehicle speed and A/C status to tell the VCRM when to turn on the fan and at what speed. I'm interested to see if it handles it well and since I have to send in my PCM anyways, why not just have them program it to 190 and be done with it.


    Our basement was completely unfinished when we bought the house new. I built a bedroom and now am working on the bathroom and last bedroom. This is going to be a rental again in a year so I don't want to do tile (really do but not for renters). We had it planned until the last 2 renters of this house for us have not taken care of anything at all for a house built in 2005. I'm not funding the good stuff for renters anymore. I'm close to having the mudders come in and do their thing. That and texture are the only things I will not and cannot do.

    Thanks for all the help. I'm taking the service manual to work with me tomorrow to copy the pages I need for my own book on the Fairlane. I'm trying to preserve the books for the next project and have my own books for each car so I know what I wired to what and where.

    Dave

  4. #63
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    Pin # 8 is the power out to the fuel pump. This wire ties in with the large pink/black wire that runs the fuel pump.
    Pin# 22 is the fuel pump relay ground.
    Pin# 34 I don't have listed that I used it. The best that I can remember is this pin goes to the message center.

    Maybe this will help.

    Kevin

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  6. #64
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    So, if I read right, you have main 12vdc to the pump and pin 8 together after relay activation?

    I picture it as a standard (4 or 5 pin) 12vdc relay with pins 85 and 86 as the Run/Start switched power on and ground to pin 22 of PCM. Then Pin 87 is hot (fused of course) at all times and pin 30 is switched power to the pump and pin 8 of the PCM. That all sound correct? Sounds like it'd work for me since the pin 22 is a true ground and that pin 8 on the pcm is only to read that pump is operating and not to feed the 12vdc. The EVTM indicates pin 8 as 12v only when pump is activated from relay.

    Seems like the VCRM is really just a second relay is the system that is triggered by PCM parameters that may shut it off to shut off the FP relay. Kind of redundant right? Funny that there is a PCM power relay in the VCRM as well.

    I'm going to research the 75amp relay breaker to see if I might just run the fan off it through the PCM. I need to find the fan trigger pin.

    I think 3 relays would do it once I work out the right pins from the PCM. 1 for the fuel pump, 1 for the fan and 1 for switched PCM power.

    Kind of thinking out loud here so don't think I'm asking for verification but,.......could you weigh in on my thought process here?

    Thanks
    Dave

  7. #65
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    Dave, You are correct about the pump and pin 8 being tied together. They are hot after relay activation. I found that when I was dissecting the original harness so I hooked it up just like it was. I don't know how many times I was tracing a wire and it would tie into other wires and then I would have forgotten what I was originally looking for.

    The relay that I used was a standard 4 or 5 pin relay. I used both.

    I am sure that there is a pin in there for the fan but I didn't use it so I don't have it documented.

    I didn't study the VCRM at all since I wasn't going to use it. I am not sure exactly how it works.

    Kevin

  8. #66
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    You know what's funny? I talked about this same subject when I was doing the DOHC in my 63 Galaxie back in 09. I found my post while searching for info on the VCRM. I seem to have known more then than I do now. See? I AM getting old and senile! ****! I'm the one who's supposed to be denying it, not accepting it.

    Anyways, I'm leaning more and more towards not using it. The VCRM will control the fan on 2 speeds which is not all that stupendous of a feature in my book. The only feature that I would like to keep from it is the PCM telling the fan to cut off at 42-47mph and allow the air to naturally go through the radiator through the speed. But reading around, it seems the VCRM is not as readily available as a standard Bosch 12vdc 30 amp relay (I have 7 with harnesses in my tool box). I think I'll wire the FP through that method and get ahold of a 50 amp relay for the fan with a 50 amp slow burn fuse and just have it on or off based on temp. All the AC features are disabled since I don't have it. The relay will handle the 47+/- amp start up bursts fine.

    Now, to get my butt out in that cold garage and get started on it!

    Thanks for the input. I'm set in my way now unlike our government. Off to get something done......unlike our government.

    Dave

  9. #67
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    Well, the VCRM is now out of the picture and removed. I also took a step back and ditched the PCM/EDIS mount I made because it was not a clean cut item. I am going to have the main grommet through the firewall come out where I had the VCRM and next to it will be the ICM. Then the large connector that goes to the engine harness will go through another grommet like the other one, from the fender well just under the ICM, to the bay and connect in the fender. The main wiring will run just under the master cylinder to the back of the engine and keep a cleaner look. Then from the main harness coming from the cab out to the outer fender well, I'll have the lights, horns and MAF wiring all run just up under the fender mount lip and across the core support hidden and branching off where they belong. I want to hide as many wires as possible and keep it clean. That leads me to the mess of wires on top of the engine. I think I'm going to explore the idea of running them under the upper intake and filter out where they need with minimal wiring visible. This way the powder coating on the parts will show better. Sucks to take a step back but I'm glad I'm doing it for the better of the car's looks. I was rushing to get it running and that's not good.

    I know the worded posts without pictures suck but I can't post pics of work I plan to do. I've been up since 2am plotting all this and if I started cutting with tools in the garage that early, the wife would kill me. So, I have to post after when everyone's awake and I can get to work physically.

    Dave

  10. #68
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    Alright. I got the new mount made for the PCM. It's thicker steel and will be welded up against the inner top cowl and the PCM strap is removable and foam tape padded. I like this much better. There's room for where the wires come through the firewall and even to put the compact fuse block I'm getting in there. Perfect.







    And here is the ICM and the wires passing through the outer firewall and mounted where I had the VCRM before. That big square connector going into the engine bay is tight now and I'll have to extend the wires (all of them!!!) about 4 inches longer to accommodate a shock drop and enough to go through the rubber grommet and still connect somewhere in the well.






    I like the setup much better than before. I have plenty of under dash room for the relays, new fuse block and wiring and aftermarket AC or whatever. Nothing hangs down. It's all up, hidden and tight but accessible by under the dash or by removing the wheel.

    I have to eliminate some of the wires of course and I'll have to add some to the grommets as well so they may slightly need modified. I have the lights and a few other wires that I need to run up front.

    Time to play games with the kids. More to come.

    Dave

  11. #69
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    I got the entire passenger inner fender area scraped, ground, cleaned and primed. I'll have to cut a hole for the fuel lines but otherwise, this area is not getting any other attention. I'll mount the vac canister in there but my next step is to coat it with bedliner. I'll do the other side as soon as I get the wiring all figured out and assured where it's going to go. I still can't get under the dash to hassle with the wiring because of the pains in my back lately. Soon I hope.





    I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the recirculating coolant stuff out and just run an upper and lower with a remote thermo housing just like was recommended in my other post. I like the simple and cleaner look of that setup and this is a summer only car so fast heat up is not a concern.

    More to come.

    Dave

  12. #70

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    Dave,
    Love how your doing the wiring. I do know one thing, these Marks have tons of wires! Hoping to pull the engine and trans. this weekend. Then, removal of more wires! After reading your post again, I'm going to need the vac canister also?

    Shane

  13. #71
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    I don't think the canister is needed if you don't run air operated items in the cabin for most vehicles but since the IMRC's on this engine are vac operated, I'm not going to mess with the possibility. I'll put it on and run it with.

    I got the outer fender coated and finished.
    I hope to get the other side done soon but this damned wiring is my hold up there. I got the suspension off both sides and it's primed and ready for paint.





    I know I want to hide the wiring as well as I can. I have no issues doing it on a 5.0 pushrod engine. Why is it so hard to choose a path for the wiring on this thing. I need to start looking at finished products again to get some ideas.




    My transmission cross member will hang too low and need modification so I'm just going to build my own. That is, after I get the subs and mount them. They'll have to be farther out than I'm used to since the rear is wider on the spring mounts.

    Slowly but surely.

    Dave

  14. #72
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    I've been out of town TDY as well as gone a lot for medical crap. I have another disc in my neck that's bad. I have a new bone spur that is on my heel piercing my achilis tendon so I'm in one of those stupid boots until they fix it. I'm falling apart!!!!

    I did get the rearend started on the car. I tried to pull the spring brackets off to find the stock springs are cracked on a few. $250 for a new set and another $100 for brackets and then another $100 for traction bars (homemade) so.......I decided I'm ditching the springs and going 4 link right off the bat. I'll go triangulated like the fox body cars are. Since I'm going that route now, I decided to get started on the rear.


    I took all the brackets off the 8.8 and marked and cut the 2.875" out of the drivers tube.






    Then I welded the end piece back on and even tied the tubes to the cast center section. I'll never top 350rwhp in this car but you never know. I am sure it's solid now. I just need to grind down the weld on the tube, get it all cleaned up and new seals, clutches and other stuff. All the bearings in the rear look good.








    I don't know how much time or money I'll be able to dedicate to the rear but I have to get it done before summer. We're picking up our retirement home with some acreage and a shop that is big and not connected to the house. I need to get this thing on the car trailer to get it over there.

    Hopefully more to come.

    Dave

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    I always enjoy your progress pics Dave. Thanks for sharing!

  16. #74
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    I wish I could post more. Medical, school and retirement have all slowed my car stuff down. Once I am actually retired, I'll be working more even!!! Soon enough. The wife is picking up a nice contracting job to help out so I'll have more money to play with........unless the kids start needing more.

    Thanks again. I'll try and keep them coming.

    Dave

  17. #75
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    Well, I just found out I can't use the stock explorer sway bar with a 4 link setup. It'll get in the way of the coil overs almost no matter where I put the coil overs. I'm going to have to get the 4 link and install it and then see what I can do.

    On another note, I got the fuel tank and straps primed and painted. The straps started to rust so I just went ahead and did it. Funny, I was looking at the rear end and fitment and decided I should check the tank and fuel filter area clearance and then when I went to put the tank in, I saw the rust and got sidetracked with painting. See how that works? I hate this ADHD.

    Dave

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