Back with another 4V in an old Ford project.

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  1. #1
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    Default Back with another 4V in an old Ford project.

    Hey guys. I am at it again. My last project never was finished but I will do it this time. Some of you may remember my 94 MkVIII drivetrain into my 63 Galaxy project about 4-5 years ago. I still have the car but had to sell the drivetrain to pay other things off. Well, now I have a 63 Fairlane 4 door and I just sold the 351/AOD I was building for it and I picked up another 94 MkVIII. My Fairlane is a 75,000 mile 4 door 500 that had the 260/FMX 2 speed setup in it. I pulled that, welded in a Rod and Customs MII front end into the car and I picked up an Explorer 8.8 with 31 spline, Limited slip, 3.73's and disc brakes. I plan to 4 link that someday. Here are a few pics of my work so far on this project. ..................... I have started to gut the MkVIII and am going to use the wirig from it as well as the radiator if possible. I'll cut the core support to fit it. I'm hoping to keep the interior as stock as possible and just have it a factory looking car on polished 16" TTII's with a low profile tire. I'm keeping the IRS and air bag setup from the Lincoln though. I think I owe the Galaxy a drivetrain and completion. It's still in North Dakota. I moved back to Cheyenne and will be enlisted here for my last 2 years before I retire here for good. I'm looking forward to getting started on the transplant now. Just a few more homey do's before I can get going though. More to come. Dave

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  3. #2
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    should have kept the 351. I wouldn't have don't the rod and customs M2 ifs on early ford cars, ( I learned the hard way) but nice car I like it.

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    Cool!

    -Garrett

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    [QUOTE=steel;1861609] I wouldn't have don't the rod and customs M2 ifs on early ford cars, ( I learned the hard way) [QUOTE]

    Why not?

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    the uni-body inner aprons frame rails and shock towers. this car is 50 years old with metal fatigue. (basically same car) I had a 64 fairlane with a 400 stroker 351 based motor with EFI EDIS8 N/A built for daily use with a moderate lift cam, however the motor being a torque monster at such low RPM twisted the body, a weekend later after being parked I pulled the motor and discovered that the right side was 1 inch higher than my left side the shock towers had wrinkles and the frame rails were cracked. these cars are not suitable for the engines that we stuff into today. literally the sheet metal that has been used for the car structure is very weak, and adding a Rod and customs setup into the mix by welding to the flimsy rails is actually asking for disaster. you delete the factory shock towers the whole setup is weakened by 70 percent. there's also been a lot of stories like mine and many people stay away from this setup. what I did was ordered a set of feather light frame rails $427.00 and a 96 junk yard mustang GT strut suspension for $150.00, since I know metal fabrication and working in a steel shop for 6 years I did the work my self. the handling is so smooth and tight with the new front end, and I have a lot of room.

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    I see that argument a lot on removing the shock towers. I have seen some people add tube steel supports tying the frame back to the fire wall. I am running a basically stock 4V, and added sub frame connectors. Sounds like your set up had a lot more hp and torque, and I could see that being an issue in any of the unibody cars once you get to a certain point.

    Time will tell. I am a long way from getting mine on the road.

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    at 4500 I think it was making 560ft lbs, the power was at 505 I think. i made it for a lot of torque something a street engine needs, and man did it have a lot. the factory sub frames are weak., there is a lot of guys that swap the frame rails out and add thicker/stronger rails and add tube in the front and back to the firewall and I like that. I used feather light frame rails and a rod and custom cross member with bottom control arms. the cross member is bolted to the rails as if it were a K member so that I can drop the motor from the bottom, the struts are bolted to a tube going to the fire wall and down to the rails. im also using a hydra boost brake cylinder. the engine im selling and I have plans for a 6.2l swap, but that is going to wait until next spring.

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    I have read many stories and even seen one similar to yours. This guy had a stroked 8.2 deck that had around 11:1 compression with a power glide behind it. He was racing and had twisting issues too. I don't plan on ever going over 300hp out of this engine (if ever) until I've surely addressed all the strengthening issues. I plan to run a beefy sub setup with a triangulated 4 link from AirRide Suspension and tie it all together. It's a 4 door Dairy Queen run car, not a race car. I want it to get out of it's own way but not light them up. I think I'll be fine with this setup. Sorry to hear you had issues. I heard many more worse stories about stock setups having issues from a few other certain vendors that tailor one setup to every type of car/truck imaginable.

    Only time and skill will tell.

    Thanks for the heads up though.

    Dave

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    I've seen a 69 mustang twist the right side up so bad the car was declared total the engine broke the towers trans went right threw the tunnel when it happened. 20.000 car gone the guy had a lot stuff done to the car with a very expensive paint job. . however in that case you should be fine although I still cant trust stock ford uni-body structures from that time period even with or without the RnC kit. you might want to check out AJE K member conversion kits, . but just in case you want to get wild with it in the future now you know there will be something that can go wrong.

  12. #10

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    Dave - can't wait to see your progress!

    steel - I'm not gonna jack Dave's thread but, sounds like you didn't prepare your car very well for high torque/HP.

    Keep the progress pics coming!

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    2dr_sedan, you're right i didn't prepare it right. the first time!. a sub frame connector was not strong enough to stop the buckling of my stock frame rails and the warping of inner aprons. there's multiple reasons why guys frown on the RnC kit on a stock frame.

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    Honestly, I can see the concern area's with a MII front end but it's not just one brand. They all take the lower portion and remove it for a style of their own. The strut towers are surely gone on all of them so it's not just one brand. I'll work with it. I'm not afraid of metal work. I'm building a 4130 roll cage for my son's Polaris RZR170 that they just rolled and I've done plenty of rear suspensions and a full tubular setup on my 9.5X Fox body stang. I had an old 83 Z28 that I didn't prep and put a new motor in it about 18 years ago. That thing shut the hood and back hatch so crooked, I had to push them both over to latch them from all the torque twisting the car up. I'm pretty sure no matter what I run across, I've dealt with similar and am not worried about working it out.

    Thanks all for the comments.

    Dave

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    that's old school un-body for ya! my girl friend has a 1969 mustang fastback she wants to start on soon, im tossing the idea of making a full frame for the car. simple deal to do. but you are right its not just RnC products its every one who uses the M2 design on stock flimsy rails. now if the rails were replaced with stronger thicker ID wall rails with reinforcement tied into the firewall, then by all means go for that M2 kit.

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    I think I'm just about ready to get started pulling the engine and all from the Lincoln now. Took a few weeks to get the roll cage built for my kids' RZR170 after the rollover. I am going to get the toys out of the garage now before the snow flies and get to tearing this thing apart. Of course, now that I decide to go the 4.6 route, R&C decides to almost double the engine mount standoff prices. $75 just a few months ago. Now they're $125. Crap. Guess I'll be making my own again.

    Progress pics soon to come I hope.

    Dave

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    Dave - keep the progress pics coming!

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