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rear suspension problem

3K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  MikesGR40 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi, last friday i went at the strip and my car told me he need some more stifness in the back...already got upr pro serie adjustable upper and lower control arm, but driver side lower get to the ground...the front bolt just snap and the 2 side shim are just not reusable....thinking about having a machinist made some other way bigger and conical shape this time, this was problem one, second one is my rear sway bar, it snap at the same time...thinking about upr anti roll bar....what are the rate on them? Single one is good to how much tork compare to the double? Don't want to install a kit like this twice since it's weld in a tight space of the car...

Thanks in advance for your input about your own experience and help!!!

edit: well apparently i'm not the only one that break those bolt loll upr already made a kit to up grade them to 1/2in grade 8 bolt with way stronger shim than the aluminum one that came in the pro serie kit

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-extreme-duty-hardware-kit.html
 
#3 ·
the bolt i snap was an oem one the only thing that was made of aluminum was the side shim of the heim joint, that's what upr give with the adjustable kit, the kit i post when i edit my first post provide bigger bolt stronger shim and better heim joint
 
#4 ·
here's the problem (i get a bolt from another racer, i'm shy to tell it but it's a starter bolt from a gm that help me going back home that night loll)

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq357/texasmatt_2008/IMG_20130921_1134471_zpsbb006c02.jpg

and here's the solution, upr extreme kit, machined heim joint compare to the cast heim joint that came with the arm and way better sleeve, if those broke i'm gonna weld everything (joke)

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq357/texasmatt_2008/IMG_20130927_1558471_zps499e18d3.jpg
 
#5 ·
I simply replaced all my rear suspension bolts with 1/2" Grade 8 bolts and washers and nuts. The lower leading control arm brackets are easy to drill out to 1/2" with the mufflers removed, and of course the lower brackets on the rear axle are straight forward. I never tried drilling the upper control arm brackets on the body as I'm running a Watts Link.
 
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