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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys just got a 94 mustang GT automatic it is completely stock I am on a budget and I am looking for the quickest way to get it to 300 rear wheel horsepower I would like to stay under $5,000 if possible any suggestions would help I am new to the community
 

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Try and identify what you really want out of "300hp":

Are you wanting a "seat of the pants" exhilaration b/c of how it "feels" around town?
Or
Do you want to dyno the car to show off that your car made 300hp even tho it may "feel" slow.
Or
Will you drag race it to try and get s specific ET and feel that 300hp will get you that ET?

If all you're wanting is a more exhilarating ride from stoplight to stoplight then change the gears in the rearend and call it good. This will be the easiest and cheapest way to make the car feel faster and you will have a blast with it.

Thirty years ago a friend took a Bone Stock 350 Chevy with a junk 4-barrel carburator and put it in his 69 Camaro but added crazy 5.13 gears in the rearend. That car was was a complete BLAST to play with around town. When he took it to the track it actually ran low 13's but it was out of steam long before it crossed the finish line.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Kevin thanks for the input I do like the gears idea this is my first car right now I’m just looking to make the car feel a little faster. I plan on keeping the car forever and would like to rebuild the engine one day
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Try and identify what you really want out of "300hp":

Are you wanting a "seat of the pants" exhilaration b/c of how it "feels" around town?
Or
Do you want to dyno the car to show off that your car made 300hp even tho it may "feel" slow.
Or
Will you drag race it to try and get s specific ET and feel that 300hp will get you that ET?

If all you're wanting is a more exhilarating ride from stoplight to stoplight then change the gears in the rearend and call it good. This will be the easiest and cheapest way to make the car feel faster and you will have a blast with it.

Thirty years ago a friend took a Bone Stock 350 Chevy with a junk 4-barrel carburator and put it in his 69 Camaro but added crazy 5.13 gears in the rearend. That car was was a complete BLAST to play with around town. When he took it to the track it actually ran low 13's but it was out of steam long before it crossed the finish line.

ks
What gears would you recommend I see people run 3.73
 

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IF all you're wanting is a great seat-of-the pants feel then 4.11's (or 4.10's?) would blow your mind with an automatic transmission. The car won't have a great top-end pull after 80mph or so (for example) but it will be a complete blast up to that point. This is where you NEED to decide what is important b/c a lot of people will recommend 3.73's b/c they are thinking a full on drag race for a full 1/4 mile but in reality maybe you have no desire to "Race" a 1/4 mile and simply want a great feeling for a few blocks.

Going with 3.73's is a typical recomendation but may not be enough of a change DEPENDING on what gears are already in it. If there are 3.55's then 3.73's won't be much of an "improvement" but 4.11's would be great for a Seat-of-the-Pants feel.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
IF all you're wanting is a great seat-of-the pants feel then 4.11's would blow your mind with an automatic transmission. The car won't have a great top-end pull after 80mph or so (for example) but it will be a complete blast up to that point. This is where you NEED to decide what is important b/c a lot of people will recommend 3.73's b/c they are thinking a full on drag race for a full 1/4 mile but in reality maybe you have no desire to "Race" a 1/4 mile and simply want a great feeling for a few blocks.

Going with 3.73's is a typical recomendation but may not be enough of a change DEPENDING on what gears are already in it. If there are 3.55's then 3.73's won't be much of an "improvement" but 4.11's would be great for a Seat-of-the-Pants feel.

ks
Yeah that sounds like a good idea to start off with probably go with the 4.11s and would I need to do a tune with that
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah that sounds like a good idea to start off with probably go with the 4.11s and would I need to do a tune with that
I think I have 3.08 in it The only thing I know it does have someone did some transmission work on the car already it does have a shift kit but I know nothing has been done with the engine
 

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Yeah that sounds like a good idea to start off with probably go with the 4.11s and would I need to do a tune with that
You wouldn't "need" a tune if it's not in the budget. Just get a reputable shop to install the gears then call it good if you want and have fun.

As time and $$ come your way there are little things that can help with adding power, and a tune may be one of those things to help the factory motor make a little more power or make power more safely. There are also things that simply eat your money but may require an update/replacement, like a fuel pump, etc. These things will NOT add "power" BUT if a dyno tune is done on the car then this could let you know that the fuel delivery system is struggling to keep up so then a pump may be needed..

Going to bed now so sleep on what you have read.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You wouldn't "need" a tune if it's not in the budget. Just get a reputable shop to install the gears then call it good if you want and have fun.

As time and $$ come your way there are little things that can help with adding power, and a tune may be one of those things to help the factory motor make a little more power or make power more safely. There are also things that simply eat your money but may require an update/replacement, like a fuel pump, etc. These things will NOT add "power" BUT if a dyno tune is done on the car then this could let you know that the fuel delivery system is struggling to keep up so then a pump may be needed..

Going to bed now so sleep on what you have read.

Kevin
Thank you for the advice I definitely like the gears idea and the tune doesn’t sound like a bad idea but thanks again and have a goodnight
 

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If you need 300 rwhp on a budget the best way to get there is going to be a supercharger or turbo kit.

Heads cam and intake on a stock short block is going to be way more work than it's worth and driveability will suffer especially since this seems to be your daily. You will also need supporting mods like full exhaust to get you to the number so the budget would really be stretched thin.

Nitrous will get you to the number at the track but around town will actually slow you down because you'll have to retard your timing to run a shot.

Supercharger will be far less work than heads cam and intake and can easily get you to 300rwhp and of you get a solid kit used can come on way under budget. You can then use the left over budget for gears and I would also recommend a shift kit and exhaust.

Turbo kit is the other option but will require a bit more work than the supercharger, most notably a tubular k Member and coilovers, but can also be had at a decent price both new and used. The other good thing about the turbo is it will work well with your stock gears.

Personally when I was a young lad in your shoes with a 95 GT Automatic I went with 4.10's, a shift kit and a 100 shot. The car was a lot of fun but I had always wished I just went with a Vortech or Procharger from the jump.
 

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If you need 300 rwhp on a budget the best way to get there is going to be a supercharger or turbo kit.

Heads cam and intake on a stock short block is going to be way more work than it's worth and driveability will suffer especially since this seems to be your daily. You will also need supporting mods like full exhaust to get you to the number so the budget would really be stretched thin.

Nitrous will get you to the number at the track but around town will actually slow you down because you'll have to retard your timing to run a shot.

Supercharger will be far less work than heads cam and intake and can easily get you to 300rwhp and of you get a solid kit used can come on way under budget. You can then use the left over budget for gears and I would also recommend a shift kit and exhaust.

Turbo kit is the other option but will require a bit more work than the supercharger, most notably a tubular k Member and coilovers, but can also be had at a decent price both new and used. The other good thing about the turbo is it will work well with your stock gears.

Personally when I was a young lad in your shoes with a 95 GT Automatic I went with 4.10's, a shift kit and a 100 shot. The car was a lot of fun but I had always wished I just went with a Vortech or Procharger from the jump.
The above post is misleading OP!

A 2.3L supercharger alone will cost you $3,800 from Whipple. Add the better part of $1K for a manifold and another $750 for the pulley bridge. A Metco lower kit will cost you $400+, and a top pulley will cost you another $100. New injectors will cost you $600 + as much as 250 and possibly as little as $500. Fuel rails will cost you another $350 and don't forget the fuel pump hat. The fuel pump hat will set you back another $1,100. So far, we have spent $8,150 on the blower solution and we are far from finished. There is easily another $1,000 to $2,000 in plumbing and fuel system parts depending on what you choose.

The Turbo route is north of $10K, done right. If you are a good fabricator with access to a metals shop for fabrication, then potentially a small savings. Of all the mod paths you have to choose from, the Whipple path, by far will provide more torque at lower rpm and smoother acceleration than any other possible mod, and you will have no need to switch cams. We have many people on the site that have run low 9's and high 8's on stock cams.

A complete 150 shot Nitrous system from Nitrous Express will cost you $875 MSRP. Potentially less through distribution.

If what you said originally in your very first post is what you are looking for, then The Answer is Nitrous! If you want to spend a lot of money, there are nearly unlimited ways to piss away virtually any amount of money you would like to. Pick your poison.
 

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The above post is misleading OP!

A 2.3L supercharger alone will cost you $3,800 from Whipple. Add the better part of $1K for a manifold and another $750 for the pulley bridge. A Metco lower kit will cost you $400+, and a top pulley will cost you another $100. New injectors will cost you $600 + as much as 250 and possibly as little as $500. Fuel rails will cost you another $350 and don't forget the fuel pump hat. The fuel pump hat will set you back another $1,100. So far, we have spent $8,150 on the blower solution and we are far from finished. There is another $500 to $1000 in plumbing depending on what you choose.

The Turbo route is north of $10K done right and less if you are a good fabricator with access to a metals shop for fabrication. Of all the mod paths you have to choose from, the Whipple path, by far will provide more torque at lower rpm and smoother acceleration than any other possible mod, and you will have no need to switch cams. We have many people on the site that have run low 9's and high 8's on stock cams.

A complete 150 shot Nitrous system from Nitrous Express will cost you $875 MSRP. Potentially less through distribution.

If what you said originally in your very first post is what you are looking for, then the answer is Nitrous! If you want to spend a lot of money, there are nearly unlimited ways to piss away virtually any amount of money you would like to. Pick your poison.
OP has a 94-95, the Whipple you reference is for mod motors. This is an sbf Windsor car. You're comparing things that aren't even compatible with the engine in the car.
 

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Whether it is a pushrod or an OHC engine it will require an intake manifold. Money will need to change hands for the manifold to be acquired. There are multiple suppliers of blower manifolds for SB Fords that come with a GMC bolt pattern. That means an adapter is required and will add to the cost of the adventure. That does not mean the approach is recommended. In fact I am recommending he skip by all the blower stuff and go directly to the Nitrous solution.

It is possible for you to read that in post #2 in this thread. Additionally, I suggest it again in post #13 in this thread. Nowhere do I recommend he use other than a Nitrous solution. The blower commentary is designed to do no more than place a price floor on that sort of approach. Real World pricing could and likely would go much higher. When you compare the Blower and Turbo pricing to the Nitrous pricing, it will again reinforce the benefit of the Nitrous solution.

The OP made a very clear request for the
... quickest way to get it to 300 rear wheel horsepower I would like to stay under $5,000 ...
The simple answer is Nitrous, period! There is no other way to get to his target RWHP number less expensively. This is the only possible solution to the request he made — and there were no other qualifiers other than pricing and RWHP.
 

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Tell me what Vortech, Procharger, or Turbo kit for a 94-95 GT requires an intake manifold? This is some of the dumbest crap I have ever read.

Jesus Christ, you're a moderator!?!? OP go to SVTPerformance or SN95Forums. If this is who is running this site you aren't going to get any good advice here.
 

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The issue is not about whether the centrifugal compressors need a manifold or not. The issue is simply RWHP and overall system cost. The OP's original request specified the performance and price constraints he placed upon the solution set he was looking for. Your solution does not meet his requested performance goals within the pricing constraints he has established. More to the point, your solutions misinform the OP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you everybody for who is posted just trying to learn as much as I can I definitely see if I want to get to 300 rwhp that I am going to have to save up a lot more money probably just gonna go with the gears right now to give it a little more fun for my daily
 
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