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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so I have a 2010 Mustang GT Stock right now. I'm looking to spend $10,000 total on it. but my front bumper got cracked pretty good from an animal (coyote) crossing the road the other day. and need a new front bumper, so im getting a Body kit and a new paint job done to the entire car, got qouted for $3,000 for painting the car and the kit + mounting it and labor.

Getting to the point, im spending $7k in performance on top of the paint job. I want to drop a 302 brenspeed 5.0 engine with a hellion Turbo kit. but I wanna know what should I get first? or should I get break/suspension/exhaust/pulleys/wheels first? (I know the engine+turbo is going to cost another 7k, but that's after I pay off stage 1 of upgrading)

Thanks for the help!

P.S. The car is getting painted Satin Matte Black with Hyper Black highlights for trim.
 

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Ok so I have a 2010 Mustang GT Stock right now. I'm looking to spend $10,000 total on it. but my front bumper got cracked pretty good from an animal (coyote) crossing the road the other day. and need a new front bumper, so im getting a Body kit and a new paint job done to the entire car, got qouted for $3,000 for painting the car and the kit + mounting it and labor.

Getting to the point, im spending $7k in performance on top of the paint job. I want to drop a 302 brenspeed 5.0 engine with a hellion Turbo kit. but I wanna know what should I get first? or should I get break/suspension/exhaust/pulleys/wheels first? (I know the engine+turbo is going to cost another 7k, but that's after I pay off stage 1 of upgrading)

Thanks for the help!

P.S. The car is getting painted Satin Matte Black with Hyper Black highlights for trim.
I have had to learn the hard way when doing builds like this. Start with the suspension, brakes, and exhaust. You will be so glad you did in the long run.
I agree with suspension, brakes, wheels & tires first. They are the foundation. They'll help a lot now, and even more so when you double the power. Swing by Mustang Parts & Performance - UPR Products sometime and check out our suspension. It works very well, it's Made in America, it has a Lifetime Guarantee, and modularfords members get a 10% discount on it. :usflag:
 

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What i want to know is this. Is 7K your limit for the car as a whole. Meaning is that all your ever going to spend. After looking at just the engine stuff i want to do to the car i am looking at 11K (+/- 1k) then the suspension would be another 4K with wheels coming in at 2K so 6K there and that is still missing the 3K in brakes. So 7K goes by quick depending on what you want to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
-Sharad
Thanks for the advice! I will for sure look at your suspension kit. I havn't bought anything yet so I'll be looking around for a good price/performance and rating, your website is very nice to.



-Dragon
Nah im not just spending 7k on performance, this is just stage 1. Just trying to figure out what I should put on it first since this is my first build. It's way to much fun to watch your car transform into a beast and then go drive it around. I can't wait to get everything put on it, especially the engine and turbo.
 

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For the money I spent on the all the suspension, cams, headers, and ect I couldve had a wicked blower set up, but in the end I wouldve had a car that was cool cause it had a blower, but lacked the set up to put it to the ground. The car is a million times more fun to drive and it communicates what it wants to do so much better with the new set up. Im a little more focused on the all around car aspect these days. Remember you dont have to go all out on shocks and struts, I see some guys that buy Tockico D specs and the car never sees the track. I went with FFRP shocks and struts, and couldnt be happier with them. Came with all new OEM mounting hardware as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For the money I spent on the all the suspension, cams, headers, and ect I couldve had a wicked blower set up, but in the end I wouldve had a car that was cool cause it had a blower, but lacked the set up to put it to the ground. The car is a million times more fun to drive and it communicates what it wants to do so much better with the new set up. Im a little more focused on the all around car aspect these days. Remember you dont have to go all out on shocks and struts, I see some guys that buy Tockico D specs and the car never sees the track. I went with FFRP shocks and struts, and couldnt be happier with them. Came with all new OEM mounting hardware as well.
Yeah thats what I'm looking at getting right now is Suspension cams and headers with some new headlights + body kit. I dont really want track suspension, just everyday driving but enough to handle a lowered body, I wouldn't go cheap on any parts though. What kind of Suspension are you using?
 

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I have BMR 1.5" Springs, FFRP non adjustable shocks and struts, BMR adjustable panhard bar, Eibach Front and rear Sway bars, BMR adjustable uper control arm with the poly bushings, and BBR billet lower control arms. Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive lighting Gas Motor vehicle
 

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Contrary to the advise most proffered, I put a KB SC on my car for my first mod. I had the money, knew what I wanted and was well aware that after swallowing the expense of the SC all the other stuff would seem cheap and easy (well, besides the clutch). Nonetheless, with the SC in place the fun meter was nearly pegged - everything after that was icing.

You might ask, "Why would you do that if you can't get all the power to the ground?" Because it was fun trying.

I submit the improvement suspension mods make to an otherwise stock car are modest at best. But when they augment a boosted motor, the improvements are impressive. Mash the loud peddle with the better suspension and the rear end doesn't get all squirrelly. Makes the suspension mod all the more worth the effort. Adding wider rims and better tires improves traction and handling and capitalizes on the suspension mods and puts power to the ground better so the SC improvement is enhanced again... then the brakes MUST come because you've got tremendous potential for obscene speed.

And no matter what the "foundation," if your truly a gearhead you'll never be done so the foundation will need changes too.

Either way, it'll be a blast! Otherwise why would we keep doing it?
 

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-Sharad
Thanks for the advice! I will for sure look at your suspension kit. I havn't bought anything yet so I'll be looking around for a good price/performance and rating, your website is very nice to.
No problem. I'm daily driving on our Pro Street suspension and I love it. It hooks up much better in a straight line and in the corners. There's hardly a day that goes by where I don't find myself laughing out loud about how fun the car is to drive. And I should mention, it only has a CAI, tuner, and x-pipe for mods, so it's not like it's making huge power. The car is just an all around fun car to drive. Like you, I think my car has some boost in its future, so I'm happy to have the chassis fairly well sorted out before I add more power.

Yeah thats what I'm looking at getting right now is Suspension cams and headers with some new headlights + body kit. I dont really want track suspension, just everyday driving but enough to handle a lowered body, I wouldn't go cheap on any parts though.
Actual track suspension tends to sacrifice ride quality for maximum traction. Of course we offer racing suspension at UPR Products, but our street suspension has close to stock ride quality with a lot of extra grip.

I submit the improvement suspension mods make to an otherwise stock car are modest at best. But when they augment a boosted motor, the improvements are impressive. Mash the loud peddle with the better suspension and the rear end doesn't get all squirrelly. Makes the suspension mod all the more worth the effort. Adding wider rims and better tires improves traction and handling and capitalizes on the suspension mods and puts power to the ground better so the SC improvement is enhanced again... then the brakes MUST come because you've got tremendous potential for obscene speed.
I disagree with your first statement because my car is nearly stock other than the UPR suspension & wider tires, but it is an absolute riot to drive with all of the extra grip. However, I do agree with everything else you said.
 

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I've concluded that there is no "right" way. I started with a few body and paint mods (painted stripes, rear & chin spoilers etc), lowering springs, wheels and tires, and exhaust. Then did a Whipple HO on the stock block. When the clutch went I decided to change the trans to a 6060 along with the clutch change (26 spline vs 10 spline) but also added a forged stroker build (8 bolt flywheel vs 6 bolt), heads, cams, and 10 rib blower drive to up the boost. Headers and different exhaust were added while the motor was out. Then I figured I better do the brakes (6P's), suspension, gears, trac locs while I was at it. That spring I did the stereo and some interior mods as well. The Whipple HO with gauges etc was $10 grand. The clutch change turned out to be about three times that.... Modding can be addictive...

My list is here: 2007 Mustang GT "JUSTAGT"
 
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