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Teksid build: 11.5:1 cr, TFS heads, KB 2.1L, and E-85

15K views 36 replies 10 participants last post by  04Ryan 
#1 · (Edited)
I finally got around to building the teksid block that has been sitting in my garage for over a year now. I've been moving along pretty good the last few days and actually started putting things together after finishing all the measurements so I thought I would post up some pictures and some of the details.

96 Cobra crank and block (0.010 inch over bore)
Manley H-beams with ARP 2000 rod bolts (60 ft-lbs with oil)
ARP main studs and side bolts (25 and 60 ft-lbs with ARP lube)
Custom L&M Diamond flat top pistons with ceramic dome coating, skirt coating, valve reliefs, and .200 wall tool steel pins
Total seal AP rings (0.023 inch gap top and second rings)
Fox Lake ported TFS heads with TFS dual valve springs
ARP 8740 head studs
Clevite coated main and rod bearings
Piston to wall clearance: 0.004-0.0045 inch
Main clearance: 0.0015 inch
Rod bearing clearance: 0.002-0.0025 inch
Rod side clearance is 0.010 inch
Crank end play: 0.008 inch
Pistons below deck: 0.011 inch



















Still waiting on head gaskets since my Cometics turned out to be crap. Going to use felpro 1141s instead.
 
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#3 ·
Good luck with the build ! I will build a Teksid with TFS 2v heads in a few weeks, I'll keep an eye on this thread. I'm glad to see that Diamond offer valve relief for TFS heads, that's one thing that has been bugging me for a few months.
 
#6 ·
I think my intake relief is 0.187 deep and the exhaust is 0.065 inch deep. Total volume ended up being 3.1 cc on a flat top.

"2.1L KB 2v 10.69 @ 133 mph, 1.46 60 ft"

Ricky, that's impressive performance out of a 2.1L KB, are you using an high flow inlet on it, and if so which one?

I've got a just installed 2.1 KB that I'm just getting dialed in so I'm curious on how you are getting such a great ET from yours.
I'm using a custom sheet metal inlet made by turbocooker from this site. That added about 3 psi and 60 rwhp with no other changes. Car has xe268h cams, ported patriot heads, long tubes, 8.5:1 cr and was making about 18-19 psi with a 7.5 lower and 2.5 upper shifting at 6400 rpm. That time was done with a t-56 and MT 26x10 stiff wall slicks. Suspension is all maximum motorsports stuff. Fuel was E-85.

ARP side bolts? When did they start making those? When mine was done MMR had the only ones.
They are pretty new. Don't know when they first came out though. I was really impressed with them. The integrated washer is a really nice touch. Part number is 156-5001.
Here is a good thread about them.
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/169456-**NEW-HOTTNESS**-ARP-Teksid-Side-Bolts
 
#4 ·
"2.1L KB 2v 10.69 @ 133 mph, 1.46 60 ft"

Ricky, that's impressive performance out of a 2.1L KB, are you using an high flow inlet on it, and if so which one?

I've got a just installed 2.1 KB that I'm just getting dialed in so I'm curious on how you are getting such a great ET from yours.
 
#7 ·
I ran 10.66@128 with a Posi Ported Eaton with a Tork Tech kit on my built 2V a couple years ago...full weight with 3.73's and 26x10 ET Drags. And that was with just a little ol' 1.83L blower :)

Very nice build by the way! Keep the pics coming!!
 
#11 ·
So I just noticed that the ARP crank washer doesn't seem to cover much of the crank damper at all. I measured about 0.075 inch of radial overlap around the edge of the washer. You can see the shinny contact area in the picture. I grabbed my larger ARP washers that are for the cams and dropped one into the ATI damper hub. Not only does it fit perfectly but it has .250 inch of radial overlap! This won't work with the stock damper because the opening is too small for the bigger washer. But the overlap is unfortunately the same. I don't have a stock washer to compare to so I don't know if it suffers the same problem.

Here is the larger washer in the hub with the arp crank washer on the right and the TFS adjustable crank gear spacer on the left for reference. The spacer is to show how much contact area there is between the damper hub and the gears. (0.250 inch radial contact)


Close-up of large washer in hub.


Small washer in hub.


Big washer over spacer.


Small washer over spacer.


 
#13 ·
That was with a 5 speed...she went 10.34@134 with a 50 shot :) Boost was around 16-17lbs depending on weather...the Eaton was screaming for sure! LoL


Interesting dimple on the pistons...any idea why that's there?

So I'm trying to make heads or tails of the washer issue...are you or are you not using a stock damper? If using the ATI one why can't you use the cam washer? You make a comment about the cam washer not fitting the stock damper, but you make no mention of which you plan on running on the new motor. I might have a stock crank washer I can measure for you...I'll take a look in a bit.
 
#14 · (Edited)
cmher,

The intake relief is probably larger than I need especially with the TFS heads but at least I know I'll never have PTV issues with almost any cams degreed in to any normal value. The cams I'm using are Lunati blower grinds 241/249, 116 LSA, 0.550 lift. I'm leaning towards installing them at 110 degrees ICL but haven't decided yet.

Ryan,

I will absolutely be using the ATI damper with the large washer. Ordered a third one last night just for the crank. Both the ARP washers are .250 inches thick. I was surprised when I saw how little contact area there was with the ARP damper washer that came with the kit. If you could measure the thickness and OD of a stock washer I think that would be good info to have in here. The big ARP washer is 2 in od and the small one is 1.55 in od.

I also noticed that the ARP 45 mm long bolt that came with the damper bolt kit has 9 mm of engagement into the crank with the ATI hub. There are plenty more threads in the crank so I ordered a 5 pack of M12x1.5 60 mm long ARP bolts. I only needed 1 but the pack of 5 was only $22 and I couldn't find how to order just one. The 60 mm long bolt will give me 24 mm of engagement and leave about 5 mm of space between the end of the bolt and the bottom of the crank hole. They also sell 50 mm M12x1.5 bolts for anyone interested in doing this with a stock damper but you'll need a different washer. I think the 60 mm bolts will bottom out with the stock damper because it is 5 mm shorter than the ATI hub.

The part number for the ARP crank bolt kit with the small washer and 45 mm long bolt is ARP-156-2501 ($29.34).

The big washer I'll be using: ARP-200-8749 $7.98
The 60 mm long bolt I'll be using: ARP-674-1007 (pack of 5) $22.05
Total for big washer and longer bolt is $30.03... 69 cents more than the crappy kit and you get 4 extra bolts!

The 50 mm long bolt part number is ARP 674-1006 (pack of 5) $20.69
I think the part number for the 1.550 diameter washer is ARP-200-8751 $7.98

Prices are from summit.

Oh, and I have no idea what the dimple is for.
 
#18 ·
Ended up degreeing in the cams at 110.5 degrees ICL on the drivers side and 110 ICL passenger side. Straight up they were at 112.5 drivers and 106 passenger. Also did a leak down test with all cylinders coming in between 9 and 13.5 percent. Next I installed the oil pick-up tube with the MMR .250 inch longer standoff with two oil pan gaskets, canton oil pan and windage tray. Cleance checked in at .360 inch on the closest side. Widest was .425 inch. Gap was measured using clay on the tube with the pan installed.









Now just need to finish installing the timing cover, valve cover, and rear main seal cover. Then on to installing the new 26 spline input shaft and twin disk clutch.
 
#23 ·
nice build thread ricky good work i was wondering how you got the cams set ? what did you do to get the 110 setup curios glwc mullet
 
#19 ·
Have you tought of the '13 GT500 oil pan gasket with the built-in windage tray ? That's what I'm gonna do. I've heard very often that the 2 gasket solution ends up leaking oil.
 
#21 ·
A friend of mine who has a shop got me one. I believe you can get it at your Ford dealer. The part number is M-6675-MSVT, but that comes with the aluminum oil pan, and pickup tube too. It's around $250 for all that. Just the gasket is like $80 I think.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Bluescreen,

Just ordered the GT500 windage tray from Tousley. Thanks for the idea!
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebe...ION&subgroup=OIL PAN&component=OIL PAN GASKET

Mullet,

I used the TFS adjustable crank gears. They allow you to adjust up to +/- 8 degrees in 2 degree increments. I used a dial indicator and a moroso pro degree wheel along with a degree kit from MHS to take the measurements. There are pretty good instructions on the MHS site that helped me do this for the first time.

Bicycle part Gear Rim Vehicle brake Tool


I also used this to find TDC with the heads on. I would recommend one longer than 6 inches because this one didn't stick out of the park plug hole at all and made it difficult to use but other than that it worked great.
http://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Pr...F8&refRID=0K4N65WNFDTBX6CF4PHH#productDetails
Metal Auto part Office supplies Cylinder Titanium
 
#27 ·
Got the gt500 windage tray last night and had an issue getting it to fit with the cobra oil pick-up tube. Is everyone else just clearancing the windage tray or using the gt500 pick up with the windage tray?
 
#30 ·
Its been a while and I had a few issues along the way, but I finally got it together and running.
Made 538 rwhp, 422 rwtq with just under 8 psi.
Old motor with 91 octane, 8.5:1 cr, patriot heads, and comp 236/230 .500 lift cams made 425 rwhp and 411 rwtq with the same boost.
The old motor with 18 psi made 570 rwhp and 560 rwtq.

Needless to say, I'm pretty pleased.

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