help high iat2 / post blower temps - Page 2

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  1. #16

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    Sooooo if the bypass was the cause of high intake manifold intake temperatures would it be because of the bypass not recirculating during on non boost or its open and there is to much recirculation

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  3. #17
    Senior Member Array Last Man Standing's Avatar
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    It's because of the bypass not recirculating when not in boost. No such thing as to much recirculating. Just put it back together the way kenne bell designed it. Are you sure the fluid is circulating through the intercooler system. What were you trying to achieve with putting the blow off valve on?

  4. #18

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    Thanks last man standing but its an vortech bypass not kennebell i posted a pick earlier and yes its circulating great its just kicking my ass

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    Name:  Screenshot_2014-08-20-17-37-19.jpg
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Size:  65.6 KB this was temps today with my intercooler water at 109 degrees pushing water across the tank

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  6. #19
    Senior Member Array Swerve's Avatar
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    Are you sure you're looking at IAT2 and not AIT at the maf? Do you have an XCAL you can log with?

  7. #20
    Senior Member Array Juiced46's Avatar
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    That bypass needs to go! If that bypass is closed at idle and cruising that is going to cause massive heat in the blower. The bypass needs to recirculate at idle which from the way you are describing it. It is not since it is closed. Second- you need to put the KB bypass back on there.

    3rd- This looks to be a 2v with a TorkTech kit or similar. Where is your intake air temp sensor mounted since a GT does not use an IAT2?

  8. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by creekmel View Post
    Sooooo if the bypass was the cause of high intake manifold intake temperatures would it be because of the bypass not recirculating during on non boost or its open and there is to much recirculation

    What Dave said above Creekmel. Additionally, what type of idle vacuum are you seeing? Hot Rod cams can beat up idle vacuum pretty impressively. When you begin to close up the negative overlap (time when both the intake and exhaust valves are shut around TDC) you will begin to loose idle vacuum. Idle vacuum is important to the proper operation of the bypass valve. If you are getting a weak vacuum signal at idle, that could negatively impact the operation of the By Pass Valve.

    There are special bypass valve diaphragms that are designed to give improved performance in low idle vacuum situations. If your idle vacuum is weak the fix could be as simple as a diaphragm replacement. Take a moment and check your idle vacuum if you haven't already. You might have a quick and easy fix waiting for you.


    Ed

  9. #22

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    Yes its an 2v gt with an 2.8 kennebell on it. Its at 15psi, 550 hp, at 8 degrees of because of the heat its pulling in. It came with that bypass because it was specially made through MPH so i dont have an kennebell bypass and i have my iat sensor routed to where an iat2 sensor would read. i have checked my vacuum to my bypass with my finger and it sucks hard leaving an imprint but i will order some new guts for my bypass to see if that will fix my problem because from what yall are saying that probably my dog-on problem

  10. #23
    Senior Member Array Swerve's Avatar
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    The picture of the engine looks like a tube is missing. Notice the flange welded onto the side of the inlet. I assume a tube goes from that blow off valve around to that flange.

    That should work, as long as the blow off valve is open at idle and light loads. Basically you don't want the valve to shut until 0-2psi or so. The nice thing about those BOVs, is you can usually adjust them.

  11. #24

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    Hey Swerve or anybody else if i wanted to test this type of bypass how would i do it ?

  12. #25
    Senior Member Array Swerve's Avatar
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    With the way it was pictured, block the opening to the inlet and start the car. You'll be able to tell if air is coming out of the BOV at idle. And adjust the bolt on the top similar to a fuel pressure regulator. Back the bolt out to open it up easier.

    You want to block off that inlet so it's not a HUGE vac leak. It will still run like crap and you should clear codes before putting it all back to normal and driving it.

  13. #26

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    Ok thanks, Ill try it this afternoon and let yall know whats up because out of all these high iat2 temp post post ive only seen one answer and it was his IC pump

  14. #27
    Senior Member Array soap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerve View Post
    Are you sure you're looking at IAT2 and not AIT at the maf?
    Dear God is he driving in an oven? Even in stop and go traffic in the desert I don't see how the air intake temps could be 185+.

    --Joe

  15. #28
    Senior Member Array Swerve's Avatar
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    My iat2 when cruising is only ~125° on a HOT day with my 2.3 whipple.

    You have a unique issue and a unique setup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by soap View Post
    Dear God is he driving in an oven? Even in stop and go traffic in the desert I don't see how the air intake temps could be 185+.

    --Joe
    LOL true

  16. #29

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    Lmao yeah its an oven I can only imagine how much power I can make cause when it was dynoed and was at 8 degrees of timing my iat2 temps said 179 degrees

  17. #30

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    Okay y'all I uncooked the bypass from the pipe going to the return side of the supercharger and this is what I found out ! The bypass works perfectly and the pipe has a strong vacuum but my bypass has an strong ass vacuum to when I put my vacuum line on it, it opens up and pulls in air!!!! Help please

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