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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#398 ·
That is what I would expect sound-wise Joe. Basically the only thing you hear is the valvetrain noise, the alternator and the front two accessory drive belts. Proof is in the pudding as the saying goes, nice job and good looking pudding.


Ed
 
#401 · (Edited)
It was definitely a relief that it smoothed out so fast (probably needed a bit more priming!), but had there been the very slight "tap" at each cold start, I would have been okay with it. No matter, it sounds now as if the PTW tolerances are near factory-spec.

On that note, these pistons went in with 0.0035" PTW clearance. Ed had mentioned that OE spec was tight - right about 0.001", which keeps the noise down and the masses happy. No worries here now!

On to John's Vampire next...
 
#404 ·
My mistake - it is 0.004" - sorry about that!

The shop that did the machining was sure that 0.0045" was too much and didn't want to go any more than 0.0035". Based on a conversation with Nick at Gibtec, they compromised on 0.004". My fault for getting the numbers a bit jumbled. In any case, it worked out perfectly.
 
#407 · (Edited)
A few words of clarification on PTW clearances for everyone reading this thread;

The original OEM pistons can get away with very tight PTW because of the aluminum stock they are made out of. Even with their low coefficient of expansion, Ford has chosen to use an anti friction coating on the skirts for insurance. The OEM piston alloy is a relatively low expansion alloy that while expanding little, also does not have the toughness/durability of the 2618 alloy Joe's pistons are made of. The increased PTW that the 2618 piston has is used to provide clearance space so the piston will have a proper operating clearance after it has warmed up.

Pistons, although they look round are in fact eliptical when they are cold. As the piston warms up it's elliptical shape grows into a round shape. The extent of the ellipse is a function of the material used, the piston's various cross-sections, the bore size and the experience of the piston designer with a particular n/a or supercharged application. All this gets mixed into the recipe for the piston design and shape. The elliptical shape of a piston skirt is sometimes described as the cam that was built into the skirt or piston. It can vary not just from manufacturer to manufacturer but from application to application within a single manufacturer.

One of the reasons I chose Arias originally and Gibtec later, when the Arias forgings I needed ran out, is that both these firms live in the supercharged piston design and application space and I had decades of good supercharged experiences with Arias. The Gibtecs (and the older Arias) designs were not just a piston somebody drew up out of the clear blue. Both pistons represented a piston from an experienced long standing supplier of supercharged pistons for use at the top of the blower motor food chain. Both these firms design and offer among the very best of pistons available for supercharged applications.

If you attempt to fit one of these blower motor pistons the way the OEM pistons were fit you will have an unhappy experience. If you fit them from 0.0035" to 0.0045" you will have a happy experience. If you fit them at 0.0035" and attempt to operate the engine like it's showroom counterpart that was in the car when you originally bought it from Ford you will have an unhappy experience. An engine at 200˚F+ will begin to scuff the pistons in the bores. If you are a little frisky or just plain wrong with your fuel system, at 200˚F+ operating temperature you are playing a dangerous game that will most likely not end well.

If you operate your engine at 180˚F or cooler use a 0.0035" to 0.0045" PTW and do not get a lean is mean sort of mentality into your tune you will be very happy. Do not attempt to do a destructive testing routine and your engine will make good power for you and importantly, treat you well.

Ed

p.s. Do not listen to your machine shops. Listen to your piston manufacturer. They are very different information sources. If you choose to go to 0.0035 keep the engine temp down and the tune conservative.
 
#411 · (Edited)
Thanks for posting that PTW info, Ed.

I know from personal experience that the owner of the shop I used got a little cantankerous about the "loose" clearance, but I'm glad he called Nick at Gibtec anyway - that settled him down. I can live with 0.004" since it's pretty close to the card, and I know I won't be running this engine on the hot side.
 
#417 · (Edited)
A little bit more play time today, so I got started on the Vampire. It was only a matter of laying it out and getting the knock sensor run, but it gave me an idea as to how I'll set it up. The wiring is really straightforward, and John's instructions make it as simple as can be. The instructions are also printed and included, but here are the details right from the J&S site (I'll expand on them later as I get in to the PCM harness): http://www.jandssafeguard.com/VampirePage/Vampire.html

Also, just to show the simplicity one more time, here is a picture of the wiring diagram:

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Pattern


For my short day today, I got started by un-bolting my passenger seat and leaning it back so I could set the control box underneath it. Since I have Recaro seats that are both powered, there is a harness under the passenger seat, but I set the box just about on top of where the wire bundle ran out. This still gives me access to the Vampire, while also not getting in the way of the seat power:

Hood Automotive tire Luggage and bags Trunk Bag


John includes a real nice harness with 10' of wire, one bundle for the knock sensor (black), and the other for the coils, power, ground, and nitrous control if you have gone that route. Here is the harness laid out and ready to go:

Audio equipment Circle Wire Cable Jewellery


You have to remove the kick panel and the scuff panel to pull the carpet up, and after that was out of the way, I cut two small slits in the carpet (in the shape of an 'X') right behind the forward seat crossmember so I could feed the harness in. Before I get the engine running to test this, I'll probably put a small strip of Velcro under the box at the back edge to grip the carpet, but with the wire harness plugged in, it should sit fairly steady.

Hood Bumper Gadget Electrical wiring Electronic device


Since the knock sensor was already bolted on the block, that was one step out of the way, but running the wire was simple enough. I chose to feed it under the carpet, up under the shifter bezel, then down in to the transmission tunnel. Since I have a wideband sensor connected to my Aeroforce gauge, the routing of the knock sensor followed it (the wideband controller is in the glovebox so it makes it easy to access for occasional recalibration). Here's both wires in a piece of wire loom poked in the lower shifter seal and dropped down:

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle


John makes it easy to do this since there is no plug on the sensor wire, but once you are under the car, you snap the wire ends in, push in the retaining clip, then plug it in to the sensor. As I pulled the wire down, it was fed along the wideband cable and transmission harness, starting above the transmission mount bracket that is spot-welded to the tunnel (on the right side in the picture). Here's the wire fed forward, and already with loom on it:

Automotive tire Bumper Gas Cable Wire


From there, I zip-tied it to the rest of the wideband harness after I figured out how much loom was needed, then dropped it down slightly near the clutch fork cover to keep it farther away from the mid-pipe.

Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive exhaust Motor vehicle


Plugged in and ready to go:

Automotive fuel system Auto part Gas Cable Coil


After this was all done, I jacked up the body slightly to remove the ramps, then dropped the front tires on the ground for the first time in a few months (the engine bay almost looks unusually low after sitting up so high all winter!). I'm getting a temporary tune for it that I'll install tomorrow so it will idle a bit better (once it is open-loop, it is hard to keep running now that I have the 60# injectors), then I'll be back with the rest of the Vampire in a few days or maybe sometime next week.
 
#418 ·
I put my J&S box in the glove box. You will need to see the light on the box to set up the sensitivity. Im a at about 10:30 position on the sensitivity knob. Or if you have the knock gauge your good. Or you can clip and extend the LED to your dash area so you can see it all the time.
 
#420 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reminder, Wes. I was asked about that and the p/n for the new rear main seal retainer plate and completely forgot to post them.

Inspection cover: F3LY-6C070-A (about $8)
Rear retainer plate: 6R3Z-6K301-AA (about $35)
 
#421 · (Edited)
Nothing real new to post, but I did get another short video clip. This one is just about 45 seconds and had to be short since the other one would never upload due to its size. The engine starts ridiculously smooth - probably just as smooth as stock, and there are no unusual noises anywhere. I have had the stethoscope all over the block and all is sounding well. On a sound note, hopefully this came out decent enough to ascertain that everything is well (the lighting isn't that great though):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uc8t34lb8ty80ma/P1050686.MOV?dl=0

I have not gotten the Vampire hooked up yet, but will try and finish that in the next week or so. I did also get a new [temporary] tune loaded in since the idle was terrible with the 60# injectors once it went in to open loop. The idle is perfect now and there is bit of a deeper rumble from the exhaust thanks to the extra air moving in and out. Once it warms back up here, I'll plan to get on a dyno to have the tune tweaked, especially since I'll be curious as the numbers. That will probably be at least another two months, unfortunately.

There was one "Oh $hit!" moment when it came time to back out of the garage and pull back in straight: I couldn't get the transmission in to gear. I had a suspicion that even with the firewall adjuster out about as far as it could go, there was still just a bit too much cable slack. Fortunately, that turned out to be the case, and a new quadrant did the trick.

Here's the new one from FRPP under the outgoing Fiore piece. You can see that the FRPP part pulls the cable about 1/2" more forward in the upper slot and will go even further in the bottom one. I had to reference the quadrant install instructions from Maximum Motorsports (their MMCL-6) and had forgotten that they include a spacer in their kit in case a situation like this arises. I probably could have fabricated something, but it was just as easy to get the new quadrant from Summit since they are so close.



This quadrant did the trick and the transmission moves through the gears effortlessly now. Even better, with the engine turning, the clutch pedal feel is definitely lighter than stock. I think I'll really dig the Centerforce clutch. At the moment, the firewall adjuster is back in to about half its length, and the TOB is riding on the fingers with just a slight bit of pressure. When it comes to driving, I may adjust it slightly, but so far it seems fine.

Otherwise, this project came together fast and is essentially wrapped up other than tweaking the tune. It was somewhat sad last weekend seeing the original engine go, but I know it is heading to a good home!

Wood Gas Engineering Machine Electrical wiring
 
#424 ·
I have a question about rod side clearances:

I have been assembling my engine and the rod side clearances seem a little tight to me. The Sean Hyland book says to set all steel rods at .011". The instructions for my Manley Pro-Billet rods says to set it between .015 and .025". Neither source explains if that's just the measurement between the two rods on one journal or if that's the overall measurement counting the spaces on the outside of the rods too... which I'll explain below.

I can get a .008 or .009 feeler gauge in between each set of rods on all 4 journals. I can also get a . 004" or .005" feeler gauge between the outsides of each rod where they butt against the crank counterweights. So what is my measurement?

If I add up all three measurements (both outside spaces, plus the space in the middle) I get between .016" and .019" overall which is just about perfect. But, if I just use the measurements between each pair of rods (which is about .0085") then the clearance is too narrow... Right?

Input is appreciated.
 
#425 ·
Mike, the rod side clearance is measured by inserting a feeler gauge between the two rods while they are assembled to the connecting rod journal. The clearance is usually measured this way during assembly. Prior to assembly the clearance is measured by measuring the width of the connecting rod which should be 0.940". The measurement for both rods on a single journal is as displayed below from Fords Terminator Engine Ass'y manual, in the red square below;

White Font Line Parallel Diagram


Ed
 
#426 ·
Ed beat me to it: I was going to grab that same page out of the assembly manual for reference since I didn't add much detail on it back the beginning.

I'm out traveling for work and don't have any of my notes handy, but mine spec'd out within the limits shown above (converted to inches, of course). I checked the gap between the rods for the heck of it, but I didn't take note of those numbers. In any case, I don't recall anything out of the ordinary since everything fell in to place.
 
#427 ·
My personal experience mirrors Joe's. Manley is very good about maintaining big end and small end rod dimensions. I suspect because of their Tier 1, supplier relationship with Ford. Ford on the other hand is very good about maintaining crankshaft dimensions including rod journal width, so the clearances should be baked in so to speak — unless someone did a custom, modified and competition modification to something (not recommended).

Ed
 
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