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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#514 ·
I'm with you on that, Ed. Just as an FYI for everyone and more props to Travis at Boundary, I'll reiterate a quote from him that is also on the Engine page of my own site:

"...I manufacture and design the gears myself. These are made in America, made by me actually. There aren't many that actually know how to design a trochoidal gerotor pump, but I'm one of them. I didn't hit the copy key, these use a unique pattern that mitigates the torsion moments on the teeth and creates a bigger pumping chamber. We have thousands of my designed gears floating in different vehicles, and many house name my brand. I challenge you to find one that has failed."
 
#515 ·
Are stock gears failing on our cars in street applications? What kind of gears are used in the GT500 from the factory?

In a race application with high RPM that's a different story... But for a street car that turns 6500 RPM max I'm wondering if this is another case of "I must have billet" that tends to grab all of us. Don't get me wrong... I also purchased this "insurance" for my engine... I used TSS gears (Triangle Speed Shop) but I always wonder if I threw money away. Or is this just the "price of insurance"?

It's kind of like the billet oil filter... Can anyone show me a failure of the Motorcraft FL820S? We can debate filtration qualities all day, but Ford designed that filter to work with these engines.... At cold oil PSI and operating temp. It would take me about 60 oil changes to make up the price difference between the FL820S and the billet filter... So about 30 years based on how much I drive my car.

Sometimes "billet" isn't worth it.
 
#516 · (Edited)
Are stock gears failing on our cars in street applications? What kind of gears are used in the GT500 from the factory?

In a race application with high RPM that's a different story... But for a street car that turns 6500 RPM max I'm wondering if this is another case of "I must have billet" that tends to grab all of us. Don't get me wrong... I also purchased this "insurance" for my engine... I used TSS gears (Triangle Speed Shop) but I always wonder if I threw money away. Or is this just the "price of insurance"?

It's kind of like the billet oil filter... Can anyone show me a failure of the Motorcraft FL820S? We can debate filtration qualities all day, but Ford designed that filter to work with these engines.... At cold oil PSI and operating temp. It would take me about 60 oil changes to make up the price difference between the FL820S and the billet filter... So about 30 years based on how much I drive my car.

Sometimes "billet" isn't worth it.
This is actually very well said. Just because something is 'billet' does not mean it is necessarily better or a 'must have'. That said, with oil being the life blood of your engine and the oil pump being the heart beat of the engine, $200 is an insignificant investment (at least my .02) to ensure oil starvation is the last thing to potentially take out a fresh engine. But yeah, that billet oil filter Joe bought is a slick piece for sure but for me, I can think of several other things I'd spend that kinda scratch on before I would spend it on an oil filter. But hey, different strokes for different folks ;)

With that in mind, a guy did a build thread over on another site for his 302 Tymensky built 3.4 Lyscholm stroker. Literally half the stuff on that entitre car was billet or custom made and only served as eye candy; it did very little, if anything at all, to enhance the longevity or robustness of his crazy high dollar investment. But, it sure was a piece of art, I'll say that. I've never seen anything like it before or after. His car was without question one of a kind. A true one-off.
 
#518 · (Edited)
The GT-500 uses the same powdered metal gears the other pumps have. Sure, they are fine for the street, but if you are spending big dollars on these engines, you'd be a fool to overlook the gears. That's what makes the Boundary gears such a great bang for the buck: they are roughly half the price of some of the others and will deliver the same performance. It's like a guy that can sell you a 170° thermostat for about half the price that is the same thing.

As for the oil filter, while it actually does offer bling, the extra $200 was nothing. With the cost of the engine, I didn't bat an eye at this. Since it offers better flow, higher burst strength, and is re-usable, I was fine with it. I also like that it has its own magnets. With what I've put in to this project, all the add-on's were just extra insurance for long-term performance as well as durability.
 
#519 ·
Whenever you have high cold start oil pressure and live in cold country, like Joe does, you can see way over 100psi at cold start idle.

I live in Kalifornia but a number of years ago we started the race car during the winter months to do a quick check before driving to warmer country to race, the car was idling somewhere north of 150 psi. Not sure exactly where because that was a high as the gauge read. When the oil pressure dropped to 150 psi and one of the guys blipped the throttle the oil pressure needle swung around and hit the backside of zero peg and bent itself! You want the most robust and highest burst pressure filters you can get if you are in cold country.

There are a number of things on the engine you buy like car insurance. You don't buy car insurance because you are planning to have an accident. You buy car insurance in case you have an accident. Subtle but important differences here. Same value system for some of these items. You are buying them in case ...


Ed
 
#520 · (Edited)
Since there has been a bit of an oil discussion, and especially with no progress made on finishing with the Vampire (a bit busy with things at home lately), I wanted to attach a Used Oil Analysis from a sample taken when I switched to the PurePower filter. This has been a habit of mine for years with Blackstone Labs, so I highly recommend them. I actually decided to drain all the Shell Rotella oil (15W-40) after about four hours of run time - mostly at idle - just to see how it was made up since I wasn't entirely familiar with its specifications.

There are some wear metals as expected, but they are still low, most likely thanks to the magnetic drain plug that Canton supplies (there was a small glob of silt on its tip). The previous three reports were from my other oil of choice: Mobil1 High-Mileage 5W-30, which I consider one of their other better oils. It has higher levels of Zn & Ph, much like the 0W-40 of theirs I'll be running after I put a couple hundred miles on the Shell "break-in" oil. Silicon is also elevated thanks to the assembly lube, but so far, all is looking well. The viscosity (reported in "centiStokes" at 100°C/212°F) is also dead on for a 40-weight oil.

Font Parallel Pattern Rectangle Event


Eventually, I'll get the Vampire installed, so more pictures to follow.
 
#521 ·
Looking very nice Joe. Admittedly it is short time on the oil but it still tells a story.

The aluminum and iron content is the new motor break in story.

I particularily like the zinc and phosphorus numbers.



Ed
 
#522 ·
I was pleased with the Zn & Ph as well, Ed. Heck, it could even be a decent oil to use full-time since my yearly oil changes typically don't accrue 1,000 miles. Even with the elevated levels in the "good" M1 oils, they are only advertised at 1000 and 1100 (Ph, and Zn, respectively). Then again, they are still better than any oil that falls under the newer API SN standard (the M1 HM oil is still an "SL", however). In any case, I'm still intending to use the 0W-40, and for anyone interested, the M1 Product Guide has some decent information.
 
#524 ·
It is good stuff - definitely glad Ed recommended it!

I still like having the higher zinc and phosphorus levels, even though most might say they are only necessary for flat tappet cams. Even better, the eight quarts I used came in at about $25 total. A great bang for the buck, for sure.
 
#525 · (Edited)
I was hoping to report that the Vampire would be all up and running by now, accompanied by some photos of the wiring, but I've been laid up with Bronchitis all week and my motivation has been in the tank. But...

The temps are up about 70° today in these parts, so I mustered up enough strength for the maiden voyage. My plan was just to granny drive around the neighborhood, then maybe swing around on the main road and run back home (a couple miles or so), but it went so well that I ended up heading out for about 15 miles. As Ed had mentioned a while back, "It will probably drive like a brand new car", and that was absolutely the case - it couldn't have gone smoother.

I was somewhat of a wussy and stayed below 4,000 RPM's and out of boost this first drive, but it was still an absolute blast. This thing is going to be a beast for sure, and with a run through my local "test track" (the 2.5M airport perimeter road), the nimbleness with the 105# off the nose is definitely noticeable. Overall, I can't be more pleased with how this has all turned out. All the temps were stable, nothing is leaking, and the smoothness is almost scary. I did make a quick stop when I got off the "track", so I had to throw a picture out for good measure:

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive parking light


Also, I am going to love the DF clutch: it is smooth, seems to grip real well, and makes absolutely no noise. As I put the first few miles on, I could tell the pedal felt even lighter, and my initial observation about it needing half the grunt to push is probably in the ballpark. Definitely glad this was my choice. I probably could have gone out and really jumped on it right off the bat, but I'll be conservative and have the Vampire dialed in before I do that.

Additionally, I have yet to re-torque the head studs (again, not much motivation this week), although I could possibly say that the swap to the ARP2000 studs was sort of a re-torque on the gaskets. I'll be hearing about that, I'm sure!! At least for now, by keeping the RPM's down, everything has gone well. I'll try to crawl back under later to check for any leaks, but everything has been pretty dry so far. Looking forward to really finishing this right around the corner...
 
#528 ·
I knew that comment would hit Ed's radar screen in about two seconds!!

In my own defense, I've felt like crap all week and cashed in some sick time that will keep me home until 4/9 - hopefully I'll get at least one of the projects done.

Funny enough, I didn't think much about it, but grabbed a black t-shirt from my stack before getting ready to hit the road: turns out it was the one Gibtec sent me. I hope that won't mean I'll develop some weird ritual where that will have to be the one thing I wear when driving it now! Better call them and get a few more for sure...
 
#529 ·
I think you are going to be just fine T-Shirt or not — although they do look good. BTW the car looks great!

Try not to get into boost, certainly until you are tuned and definitely retorque the heads before you get tuned.

For some reason I had forgot when the switchover to the 2000 studs from the 8740 studs occured. Did you do it before or after the first start? If it was after then you should be good to go. If it was before then you still have all the bull work in front of you. Definitely do it before you go to the dyno. If the tune is not a dyno based event then you have a little more wiggle room but I would still encourage the retorque before you make the engine grunt anywhere, especially on the rollers.

Congrats on a Most Excellent Adventure :beerchug:


Ed
 
#530 ·
Thanks, Ed. It was definitely a blast to drive so far, even if I was taking it easy. Once I really open it up, I'll have to be cognizant of the extra weight off the nose since it definitely feels much different in the curves. Still, the fun factor will be taken to a whole new level.

I'll have a bit of wrenching to undertake since the 2000 studs did go in while the engine was on the stand. With the passenger side being the "easy" one, I'll get on that first and then take a breather before wrestling with the brake booster and all that. If I can motivate myself to schedule the dyno time, that would definitely get me moving, but I'll probably just play it safe and put a couple hundred easy miles on it before really getting on it:)

Of course, there is still the Vampire waiting for me as well...
 
#531 ·
The incidentals on a project like this may seem like incidentals at the front end but by the time we get to them, they loom almost as big as the engine build. I think a lot of that has to do with the fact the 'incidentals' feel a lot more like work.


Ed
 
#533 · (Edited)
Well, as much as I enjoyed building the engine and getting this point, it was time to step up and get started on the re-torque of the head studs. Today was the "easy" day, so I just went ahead and knocked out the passenger side first. I already know the driver's side is going to be a pain since the hydro-boost has to be wrestled out of the way, but this side, rather than being a cinch, could probably be considered just slightly less of a pain. Since you are closer to the strut tower, have the A/C lines in the way, and will need to disconnect the fuel rail on that side, it definitely wasn't a one-hour job. Oh well, at least it's one more big item off the list on the way towards the real end of all this.

On a good note, with an Eaton car, the T/B and plenum take one more headache out of the way by alleviating the need to yank the blower or somehow manage to get the rear-mounted plenum removed on a Whipple or KB equipped car. Just as an FYI, when I was building this up, I also replaced the evap hose on the back of the plenum (1/4" fuel line shown) since the factory two-piece connection rots out. It didn't take long to pull the fender liner and get to the cannister, and I'm sure the new hose will last forever now (plus, it's easier to deal with as one section). Anyway, ready to go, with the "secret" stubby 13mm wrench for the bottom left nut:

Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Personal luxury car


The small stuff from here is easy after removing the plenum: remove the COP cover and COP's, unclip the harness and lift it out of the way (getting at the RFI suppressor on the back of the head is kind of a pain as well), and disconnect the fuel line and the rail on that side. I had made sure there was no pressure in the line before, but a bit of fuel dribbled out. From here, I removed all the cam cover bolts in backward sequence:

Motor vehicle Automotive design Car Vehicle Automotive exterior


I also packed some painters tape on the back of the cover since I knew it was going to get bashed against the heater core hose as it was wrestled out (kind of up, forward, up, forward). Sure enough, I did gouge it slightly, but since it's in the back, I suppose it won't be a big deal. Kind of a shame taking this stuff apart since it looks so nice, but might as well do it right! Everything underneath looks immaculate, as expected:

Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Camshaft Auto part Engineering


From here, just loosen each nut on the studs and then re-torque one at a time in the same sequence they went on. I printed out the page from the assembly manual with the torque sequence and just crossed each one off as it was done (again, back to 85 ft/lbs on all of them). Apparently I never attached this, but here it is now for anyone building an engine - makes a great checklist as when you are at this point:

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Anyway, I spent a little over two hours in the garage, but I did gab with Ed for about 45 minutes, so that dragged it out for a bit (not in a bad way, of course!). Funny enough, when I told him what I was up to, the connection went silent for just a few seconds: almost thought he keeled over knowing I was getting to this finally!! Crisis averted.

Tomorrow I'll get the covers put back on and probably check each plug on that side while I'm there. I have been running these Denso IT-22's at 0.032" all along, but I may tighten them up to 0.030" to see if it makes any difference. With the bump in C/R, I'm sure that will be a good thing.

I'll also probably chase the threads on all the valve cover bolts and put new sealant under the head of each like they came from Ford, but that is nothing too challenging. The gasket is nice and slick from the Shell oil, and being anal, I'll probably pick up a new set and tack it on since it is kind of a pain handling when you have to jiggle the cover back in. The two dabs of silicone at the head and timing cover seam will also need to be cleaned, so it's just as well to start with a fresh gasket. This was already posted back on P.22, but here's the torque sequence again for the cover bolts since it's appropriate to reference again - another good checklist:

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering


The other side will be following any day now, unless I get to the Vampire first before I dive it to yanking the brake booster out of the way next. More to come again shortly...
 
#535 ·
On the re-torque issue... Below picture is from Cometic's website. They say that their gaskets do NOT need to be re-torqued. I know this is debatable... I've re-torqued gaskets too... But I have to admit the gaskets I re-torqued were either fel-pros or solid copper with a wire lock ring.

With Cometic MLS I have not had to.
Let the debate commence.
Font Technology Electronic device Display device Gadget
 
#536 ·
Coincidentally, the FelPro MLS gaskets also are listed as not needing to be re-torqued either. Considering some have not done it, and had issues, while others have taken the time for it and been fine, I figured it was an "easy" step that would erase any doubts. As meticulous as I was with this build, there's probably a good chance I could have blown this off (for lack of a better phrase), but there may have been some lingering un-ease every time I decide to mash the accelerator pedal. I'll sleep much easier now with this out of the way.

Besides, you-know-who would never have let me hear the end of it:bigwink:
 
#537 ·
I have no idea who you could be speaking of, Joe. :no:

Very nice work on the retorque Joe and congratulations on the completion of your build project Mike. The large 0.004" PTW you guys used sounds big but really is not that much. As you both have experienced first hand, even at those clearances the pistons and engine are literally as quiet as an OEM piece.

BTW the reason for retorting on the gaskets is the block and head growth as the engine comes up to operating temps. Aluminum blocks and heads will grow much faster and more than the Steel head studs. The increased growth squashes the head gasket between them more than it was at original assembly. The new stack height for the individual MLS shim gaskets that make up a single MLS gasket is reduced from this squeeze and puts the head studs at a lower tension.

When you retorque the heads what you are actually doing is bringing the head down snugly against the new reduced stack height of the gaskets after the additional squeeze the block and heads gave to them. This procedure restores the original clamp loading of the gasket between the head and block, maintaining the intended sealing of the two. It is a real good practice on all aluminum engines with MLS gaskets not withstanding what the manufacturers may say about the need to retorque.

The retorqing is especially important on supercharged engines, particularly with PD blowers because of the unusually high cylinder pressures they can create at relatively low rpm and high boost.


Ed
 
#539 · (Edited)
Exactly as in the diagram I posted up there, one at a time (essentially the same from the service manual), loosen then re-torque. If you start on the passenger side, it's even more of a no-brainer since you can begin at "#1" and cross them off as you go.
 
#541 ·
I called Cometic today and inquired about the aluminum block and aluminum head combo. They stood by their statement that it doesn't require re-torquing. HOWEVER, they echoed what Joe said about it being "free piece of mind" and "won't hurt to do it".

The tech rep I talked to said they actually recommend, during the build on a engine stand, torquing the heads down, letting it sit overnight, and then retorquing them one at a time as stated in this thread. He said this also crushes the gasket and then applies the proper torque at retorque.

With all the money and time I've put in this I'm going to go ahead and do it.... Plus, it's a LOT easier on a 3-valve to get the valve covers off.
 
#542 · (Edited)
The shop that did all the machining on my block has about the same viewpoint here, Mike. When I jokingly referred to the swap from the 8740 studs to the 2000's as being a "re-torque", that process could have basically been the same thing (especially since the block had sat for over a week at that point). Still it's that extra satisfaction you get from being the one behind the wrenches that did all the work on a successful project. I'm envious that this step will be much easier for you, though, so try not to rub it in too much!!
 
#543 ·
When I put the heads on mine, I did the "let sit for 24 hours" however, I loosened them all instead of 1 at a time. I also didn't re-torque them after a heat cycle and haven't had any issues in 5 years. However, this go around I will do it especially for a piece of mine. Plus, Ed said too. hahaha. Kidding aside, I value his opinion so it will be done.
 
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