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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#580 · (Edited)
Nice, saved that pic for a reference of how much more $$$ I need to finish mine. If you think you are on a budget... you should see my price list lol. I'm even sticking with the cast crank for free. I just picked up a fully finished WAP block .020 over, decked and line honed and only a few hours on the dyno for $300 locally... Got my Cobra intake and low mileage B heads and FRPP shorties for free after selling the stuff they came with. Cast crank is free... Got my entire fully optioned 34k mile Steeda GT with the Novi 2000 for $5500 (bad wrist pin). Craigslist for me or this skrit isn't getting done...

So basically opposite of what you are doing lol. I am going to pony up for the Cobra Engineering stuff tho and obviously new ARP stuff, Stewart pump and 3V oil pump/boundary gears after reading this thread tho. Again, this is legit the most useful thread I have ever read online for real, I'm not just saying that. And I started in Mustang forums all the way back in 2001 on the Corral... #backintheday

Pic of the $300 WAP block next to the free Teksid I got out of a spare Mark motor a guy just wanted out of his driveway.



CL ftw!
 
#582 · (Edited)
Another big - and final - step out of the way today: installation of the Vampire is complete. I didn't get the chance to start the engine and get going on the calibration process, but that is right around the corner. Hopefully within the week, I'll be out on the road playing with it a bit more, so I'll add to this when that is accomplished.

One thing worth mentioning before I start attaching pictures: I never did get around to building the custom PCM harness extension. It actually worked out fine since it is just as easy to use the connectors that John supplies with the unit to piggy-back the wires from his box. While you have to do some reaching and leaning, I'm happy with how it turned out since there really is not a lot of room below the PCM for the extension. If you have a pure race car and are without interior trim, it's probably not a big deal to have some wiring exposed, but for a street car, this works out great and the carpet and trim pieces go back on just fine.

Anyway, you'll be digging around in the passenger foot well (most people put the Vampire under the passenger seat), so the easy way to start is by removing the seat. Begin unhooking the electrical connectors in front of the PCM, which can also be removed from the metal bracket that holds them in place (the more room to work, the better).

Motor vehicle Vehicle Mode of transport Automotive tire Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle


This picture shows the bracket removed, and the PCM connector un-bolted (10mm hex bolt):

Grey Font Auto part Bumper Event


With the harness disconnected, you'll need to peel off the vinyl tape and also pop off the black plastic cap to make it easier to see which wires you'll be grabbing.

Light Electricity Line Font Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior


Have the PCM connector diagram handy so you'll be sure of which wires to tap (it is connector C175 from the service manual). Here is a look at the harness end again from Post # 483 (back on Page 33) just in case:



The pins are circled that show the COP feeds as well as switched power. While John states in his instructions that the wires from the Vampire do not need to go in order on each coil, the OCD in me wanted them to correspond correctly. This is also a good idea if you add his gauge since it will then tell you which exact cylinder may have knock. To make it easy, I made a chart that lists the wires from the Vampire that match the PCM connectors (although I labeled them as "ECU" for whatever reason) if you want to mate them in order:

Rectangle Parallel Font Pattern Number


For reference, here is a picture of the box again showing the harness that is appropriately labeled. Also, note on the rheostats that I marked the middle position (arrow tip on each) with some red permanent marker so they will be easy to see when tweaking it. The middle position is at 12 O'Clock on each.

Circuit component Electronic instrument Electronic component Audio equipment Electronic engineering


Before I got going, I also wanted to mark switched power (Pin 71), but it will be easy enough to find since the wire is red. From the connector end, it is the pin I circled:

Musical instrument Automotive tire Finger Electronic instrument Electronic device


Since I had a spare harness connector handy, it was easy to verify which pins to use for the COPs since they are numbered from the back side (the COPs, again, are all the outer pins at each end - makes it simple). Here's that view minus all the factory wiring:

Office equipment Gas Circuit component Grille Electronic device


You just find each "COP control" wire on the harness, and add the taps. Here they are snapped on, including the one for power (note they are staggered to streamline the bundle as much as possible). Don't go too far down since the harness needs to make the bend in order for the plug to fit back in to the computer:

Electricity Automotive lighting Electrical wiring Wall Vehicle


Next up, the wire bundle from the Vampire. I left about three feet extra so I can feed the box on top of the passenger seat while I am adjusting it. Once I put it back under the seat, the extra wire will just coil up under the carpet. Off the top of my head, I only cut a couple of feet off, but left the ground wire at its full length so I would have options as to where I put the connector. The brown and blue wires are not used (the blue is for Nitrous retard) so they are temporarily taped back.

Electrical wiring Cable Electrical supply Font Audio equipment


Based on where each tap is on the main harness, I cut the lengths of the Vampire wires so they'd match (takes some trial and error - a better reason to leave the length long in case you have to cut it again!). Here's that end all ready to go:

Natural material Cable Wire Circle Electronics accessory


Before popping the connectors in to their appropriate taps, put a dab of dielectric grease in each (a Q-tip helps). John supplies a small packet, but I had a tube already from Ford so I used that instead. Had I really been thinking, I would have put some in before I snapped them on each wire, but it slipped my mind. In any case, it's a bit of a pain to snap them all in since you don't have a lot of room to work, but they'll eventually find their place. All done, with the black cap also re-installed on the harness connector:

Automotive tire Vehicle Plant Motor vehicle Tire


Also shown in the picture above is the ground wire, which I decided to mount at the harness ground right below. Here's the whole bundle wrapped back up with all the connectors in place (the green ground screw is at the bottom). John does say to find a "good chassis ground", so he may jump on me for using this one, but it worked just fine. The harness bundle is a bit bulkier now, but since it's just covered by carpet, you won't even know it has been modified.

Automotive tire Plant Tree Electrical wiring Recreation


One last minor step: attaching the vacuum line for the boost retard (it will be plugged and disconnected from the Vampire while you are getting the unit set). I had the Kenne Bell Hobbs switch tapped in previously to the line for my boost gauge, but never ended up using it, so out it came. John does supply a nice tee and connector, but I had previously placed a new tee in the line and just pulled off the KB switch and popped the new tube on. Here's what came out, with John's tee shown for comparison:

Gas Auto part Metal Audio equipment Pipe


The vacuum line, by the way, is up above and behind the glove box, so it's easy to access. New line attached, which was routed under the glove box, over towards the center console, where it will feed under the carpet close to the transmission tunnel (it plugs in to a port on the back of the Vampire):

Motor vehicle Vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Rim


With everything attached, and the carpet set back in place, it was time to power it up to make sure it worked - which it did just fine. When it comes alive, the LED on the box flashes for a few seconds, then goes off. So far, all seems to be well since I was able to snap a picture of it when I turned the key to the ACC position (it's sitting in the slot where the e-brake handle stows, but will be on the passenger seat temporarily as I get it adjusted):

Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive tire Audio equipment Musical instrument


From this point, John lists some steps in his instructions that have you test the knock sensor by tapping it while the engine is running, which is followed by road testing. Stay tuned, and I'll be on that soon enough!
 
#789 ·
You just find each "COP control" wire on the harness, and add the taps. Here they are snapped on, including the one for power (note they are staggered to streamline the bundle as much as possible). Don't go too far down since the harness needs to make the bend in order for the plug to fit back in to the computer:

View attachment 162346
I know these types of wiring taps are pretty commonplace and are the easiest way to split a wire, but I am somewhat on edge about wiring. My thought would be to use a 10 position Weatherpack clip with metri connectors to have a separate, easily detachable wiring harness. What I can't really nail down is what is an OEM style way to splitting a wire? I've seen the below style which seems to be heading in the right direction, but this still feels a little DIY.

Drinkware Liquid Glass bottle Bottle Drink


I am also considering the use of a trailer wiring box and would then look to stuff it in proximity to the footwell. Feel like it's a janky way to setup the internals though.

Hood Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas


Maybe there is another way with another electrical product I've never heard of?
 
#583 ·
Very nice job, as usual, Joe. It has to feel good to be at the end of the build journey. Tough job to do alone and a long road as those who have gone before you will attest to. Your documentation has been extraordinary, thanks for sharing it wth everyone on the site. It will substantially de-mystify this process and hopefully encourage others to take the same leap. In the end, no one wants their engine to be done correctly more than the owner. Most importantly if they do it themselves, as you have, they not only know how every detail went down but then can be certain in their knowledge that everything was done correctly.

Very nice job, extraordinary documentation. Thanks for sharing with everyone.


Ed
 
#585 ·
Very nice job, as usual, Joe. It has to feel good to be at the end of the build journey. Tough job to do alone and a long road as those who have gone before you will attest to. Your documentation has been extraordinary, thanks for sharing it wth everyone on the site. It will substantially de-mystify this process and hopefully encourage others to take the same leap. In the end, no one wants their engine to be done correctly more than the owner. Most importantly if they do it themselves, as you have, they not only know how every detail went down but then can be certain in their knowledge that everything was done correctly.

Very nice job, extraordinary documentation. Thanks for sharing with everyone.

Ed
Thanks, Ed. It's been a great project and I've been real glad to share all the details. I've appreciated all the additional information that has been added, especially your expertise in all this! Despite some of the heavy lifting, I'm also glad I get to give myself a proverbial pat on the back since it just all went together so well. Each time I run the engine, I'm absolutely amazed at how smooth it is, so I'm definitely eager for the nicer weather to roll in so I can rack up some miles! Glad the tune is real conservative right now, but it should be even more fun once that is really dialed in:)

Thanks for the pictures of the Vampire install Joe. When it comes time to install mine, i'll be sure to refer back to this as a reference. Let us know how the set-up goes.

Are you using the optional gauge or do you plan to datalog? I chose not to use the gauge. John told me there's a 0-5v signal to use so I can datalog with SCT Live Link.
My pleasure, Jon - I figured you would be glad to see them. Other than being a bit contorted to dig back in to the corner, the install went off without a hitch, so you should be able to knock it out easily as well. No gauge for me right now either, but I did mention to John that I could change my mind (my rationale for wiring each COP in order). I hadn't thought about any data logs, but I can explore that sometime as well if need be.
 
#584 ·
Thanks for the pictures of the Vampire install Joe. When it comes time to install mine, i'll be sure to refer back to this as a reference. Let us know how the set-up goes.

Are you using the optional gauge or do you plan to datalog? I chose not to use the gauge. John told me there's a 0-5v signal to use so I can datalog with SCT Live Link.
 
#586 ·
So question... did you wind up leaving the intake cams at 12 degrees advanced? I'm being told by multiple ppl that the torque will fall off after 5K, at least for my Centri build. Is it different for a PD blower? Being told to advance the intake no more than 5 degrees.
 
#588 ·
I did, per Ed's recommendation (see above!), and it worked out real well. From the very few miles I have put on, there is a whole lot of pull in this new engine - couldn't have worked out better. While I was hoping to have the Vampire dialed in this weekend so I could play with the RPM's a bit more, I have to duck out of town unexpectedly and it will have to wait. In any case, I'm real pleased with the cams and how they are set.
 
#587 ·
The 96-98 cams have 204˚ of intake duration while the 03/04 cams have 184˚ intake duration. The 96-98 cams installed 12 degrees advanced will close the intake valve within 3˚*of a stock 03/04 cam But will open the intake 22˚ earlier. This will produce a robust increase in both bottom end and midrange torque with essentially the same top end performance characteristics of the 03/04 cams.

In the end there is no one who is better qualified to decide what you want to do with your engine build than you are. If you feel better phasing your cams differently, then that is what you should do.



Ed
 
#590 ·
The 96-98 cams have 204˚ of intake duration while the 03/04 cams have 184˚ intake duration. The 96-98 cams installed 12 degrees advanced will close the intake valve within 3˚*of a stock 03/04 cam But will open the intake 22˚ earlier. This will produce a robust increase in both bottom end and midrange torque with essentially the same top end performance characteristics of the 03/04 cams.

In the end there is no one who is better qualified to decide what you want to do with your engine build than you are. If you feel better phasing your cams differently, then that is what you should do.

Ed
See, I'm not the one qualified to be making the decision which is why I ask people who seem to know wth they are talking about. I'm new to the 4V thing and relatively new to the modular thing in general. Seems like a 12 degree advance worked real well on this combo with a PD blower but I have a Centri so I dunno.
 
#592 · (Edited)
Just a small update between a lot of activity at home and work...

Finally got around to step one of getting the Vampire set up: low RPM verification. This is a two-person job since someone needs to hold the engine RPM just above 1750 or so (I used 2000), while the knock sensor gets "tapped" to simulate knock. With the extra cord fed out, I had the unit sitting on a box adjacent to the passenger door so I could see the LED while I tapped on the sensor with the butt end of a screwdriver.

So far, John's creation works like a charm. As you tap, the LED will start to flicker, then glow, while the engine RPM rolls back slightly. Pretty amazing. The instructions are clear, but just a few items to make sure of when you are at this point.

First, make sure the vacuum port is capped and the line is plugged. Second, set all the DIP switch switches to the up position. If you are not using nitrous (in my case), the main ones to focus on are 1 & 2. In the #1 up, it sets a 20° retard, while down is 10°. Finally, the Sensitivity knob needs to be at Maximum (full clockwise). With the Vampire doing its thing with knock (again, around 2000 RPM), here's the LED fully lit, also showing the position of the knob(s) and switches:

Motor vehicle Automotive mirror Automotive tire Bumper Gadget


Once you are satisfied that all is well, it's time to get set up for the drive. The Sensitivity knob will go back to the mid-range position, and the #2 DIP switch goes down (the individual cylinder retard position, vs. "all-cylinder" retard when up). This the view when you are ready to hit the road:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Eyewear Automotive mirror


I had also taken some time beforehand to re-gap my spark plugs from 0.030" to 0.035" (Denso Iridium IT-22). They were originally at 0.032" which was probably still fine, but I had taken them down slightly thinking it would be necessary for the bump in C/R. That really wasn't the case since the idle got a hair lumpy, but opening them back up a bit seems fine so far. Once I get in to the RPM's, it should become apparent whether this gap will work, but I think it will be fine.

Otherwise, the Vampire showed so far that it really works well, and as stated many times before here, it's a must-have for boosted engines. Hopefully John may chime in here if I leave any details out, but everything is pretty straightforward getting it wired in and running! More to follow.
 
#598 · (Edited)
Thanks, John. Left the cap on anyway since it was already there. Once the vacuum line was hooked up, all still worked perfectly!

I guess the real question is why didn't these cars come from the factory with knock sensors given the volitility and propensity of gasoline and boost to detonate ... I've read/been told that the harmonics from the supercharger interfered with the knock sensor's ability to perform correctly. Hence, the move to use IAT2's to retard timing in lieu of the sensor. But again, just what I've read/been told so who knows the actual reason SVT skipped it...
The iron block did not have a provision for knock sensors in the intake valley, but they would not fit under the bathtub intake anyway (apparently someone at Ford just didn't feel the need to make them happen). As with the aluminum blocks, those bosses have to be shaved down a bit. Interestingly enough, when Kenne Bell came out with their S/C kit for the '99/'01 Cobra, the OE knock sensors were still retained, just relocated to the block. Sounds like a great idea!

Everyone I have ever met that said the Vampire doesn't work fell into one of two buckets.

Bucket #1 was all the guys who never used one and decided that they think it doesn't work without ever once trying it.

Bucket #2 was all the guys who never took the time to properly install and calibrate the instrument.

I have never found anyone who installed the instrument and correctly calibrated it, that said it didn't work.

If you chase back the didn't work stories, they always seem to lead to the friend of a friend with counter rotating boost that is two doors down and four doors east of the Armenian Camel broker that moved to Venice Beach, California. It is nothing more than internet BS! This tool has been around since the early nineties and is waaaaaay past the debugging stage. It just flat works! If you have a supercharged gas engine and you don't use it, you do so at your own peril.

Ed
^^^^This!!!!

I agree Ed and there are some people that are quick blame the Vampire for pulling timing when there is no issue. The issue is there, it just hasn't done enough damage YET to be noticeable.
^^^^And this!!!!

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Moving along, and as a relatively final update, I took the car out for another spin and step #2 of the Vampire calibration. As John mentioned in his instructions, the first thing to do here is to get on the highway and turn the sensitivity knob up until any knock may be detected. For me, there was none: the engine was running ridiculously smooth.

Next, the vacuum line gets hooked up and you tweak the boost retard settings (if they are to be used). I decided to go ahead and check this out, but had zero knock when getting in to boost. So far, so good. There's more info in John's instructions, but here's how I left everything set (and maybe John will chime in if additional details are necessary):

Circuit component Electrical wiring Font Hardware programmer Computer hardware


Otherwise, this drive was a good time to make a couple WOT pulls, and it's an absolute beast. The AFR with this starter tune is a hair on the lean side (about 12.0:1), but that will be adjusted when I get up on a dyno to see some final numbers soon. Sometime next week, I'll take an hour to move the box back to it's permanent home and consider this process essentially wrapped up. It's been a great project, and I couldn't be more thrilled how well it's running!
 
#594 ·
Been told by a few ppl that the Vampire is a waste of money and it doesn't always work and seen mixed reviews on forums but like anything on the interwebs its sometimes hard to filter out the actual users from the trolls. Seems like its working well here.
 
#595 ·
I guess the real question is why didn't these cars come from the factory with knock sensors given the volitility and propensity of gasoline and boost to detonate ... I've read/been told that the harmonics from the supercharger interfered with the knock sensor's ability to perform correctly. Hence, the move to use IAT2's to retard timing in lieu of the sensor. But again, just what I've read/been told so who knows the actual reason SVT skipped it...
 
#601 · (Edited)
Had it all the way up, John, and there was no noise - at least there was none I could detect. Also, there was no illumination of the LED, even during deceleration. Since you had a note in there about how some engines will exhibit nothing, I figured I was doing well.

The usual fuel mix today is an E10 pump grade fuel, Joe. The safe zone for fueling with E10 is in the 11.2 AFR range. The 12:1 AFR, if that is in fact what it really is, is potentially damaging on extended WOT pulls. My preference is not to do even the short pulls (I know the tug is powerful) until the tune is finished. Your build is exemplary I would feel terrible if it got accidentally bruised before tuning because of that need to feel the power.

It is hard to do but put a brick under the gas pedal :)

Ed
That was probably a bit too off-the-cuff on the AFR, Ed. The refresh rate of the Innovate gauge is so stinking fast that I had a real hard time reading it while trying to keep going in a straight line. It was definitely easier with the steering column pod and less sun glare on the pillar, but I'll definitely avoid getting on it until the tune is checked. In any case, there is a big power jump compared to what was in before, and with the weight off the nose, the fun factor has gone way up;)

On the note of the tune, from what I understand, this "starter" version I have is real similar to a tune used in a buddies car with a Whipple (3.5" pulley) and 60# injectors. I thought it was a bit on the conservative side for the ported Eaton, but I won't get crazy until after a dyno run for sure. So far though, all has come together real well.
 
#605 · (Edited)
^^^^A good broken record!!!



EDIT: Might have flip-flopped the description there, John. I'm guessing I should have set the "Start" (right dial) to the full CW position of 10PSI, and the "Rate" dial back to something less than 1°/PSI. Not 100% sure where an ideal position would be, but I think I just mixed them up.
 
#604 · (Edited)
For those that may have forgotten or those that didn't see the thread, this is what one of Jeff's (Edmisten1) pistons looked like.

Rectangle Drinkware Font Collar Artifact


There were no audible sounds of detonation and Jeff is not one the crazies that does the lean is mean type of tune up. He was conservative. What you are seeing is the result of the incipient detonation that occurs in a blown gas engine over time that you simply have no clue is happening.

Eventually it will do enough damage the engine will need a rebuild. There is a fuel system calculator that does a number of things one of which is the setting of fence lines you don't want to cross. It is available as an XL download for Windows or Mac in the TToC under the Fuel System subsection. This is a screenshot of page three of the calculator;

Font Parallel Pattern Number Rectangle


The most lean you want to consider is the 0.8 Lambda Jeff was speaking to above. That is the leanest. Think of it as your Mobil Economy Run tune-up, definitely not your max power tune-up. The AFR for E-10 is 11.2 leanest. Safer is 10.9 AFR.

Additionally, although I sound like a broken record, there simply is no substitute for a Vampire.

Ed
 
#611 · (Edited)
Decided to make a "quick" update to this thread going back to the very first post: added a Table of Contents. It has gotten long, but hopefully anyone using it as reference will find it easier to use with the highlights of each page laid out. Will keep it updated as necessary and should have some info on a dyno run and tweak of the tune real soon.
 
#613 ·
It was driving me nuts trying to find certain things and I wrote most of it! Hopefully this makes it much easier now, especially since this thread just keeps chugging along. Now I'll be looking forward to seeing the final exam on the dyno!
 
#614 · (Edited)
Another update after a couple more weeks of occasional driving, where the engine is still running fantastic and the Vampire is tucked away and lurking in the background. One new addition to it, which is something I should have acquired from the start, is the accompanying gauge (thanks, John!!). It gives you instant information if the Vampire activates, and as John mentioned, it is invaluable during the tuning process. I vaguely recall Ed mentioning how beneficial it is as well, so if I get an "I told you so", that is okay!

In any case, here is the bundle that arrived last week from John - simple and perfect:

Product Font Audio equipment Material property Eyewear


The gauge itself is rock solid and fits any 2-1/16" pod:

Peripheral Audio equipment Gadget Tints and shades Electric blue


Installation is as easy as it comes: simply plug the supplied 3.5mm stereo cable in to the back of the gauge along with the port on the Vampire and it is ready to go. Since I have the dual A-pillar pod already with the Innovate Wideband and AeroForce Interceptor, the perfect position for this is on the steering column. Here is it under the AutoMeter #10004 cover (painted to match, of course):

Speedometer Odometer Vehicle Tachometer Car


Close-up of the gauge for the heck of it. Nice and stealthy but perfectly visible:

Vehicle Car Speedometer Steering part Odometer


With the Vampire back under the passenger seat, the cable for the gauge was easy to run along the existing bundle, behind the center console, then behind the steering wheel and in to the pod. I did also discover that I was about a foot short on the vacuum line the way I ran it, so an extension with a plastic union was easy enough to hook up as well. Here is everything set as I left it, with the sensitivity just about at the mid-range point, and the boost rate dial backed down to minimum:

Automotive lighting Electrical wiring Bumper Cable Auto part


As far as my tune goes, the AFR was fattened up a bit slightly by just using the SCT handheld and bumping the mixture 4%. This was per the tuner, but at some point, I'd like to get on a dyno to see the final output and have him make specific adjustments on site. In any case, with the WOT AFR originally hovering around 12:1, I should be in the 11's with it now.

Otherwise, I will most likely learn more about the gauge functions as I get out to drive and then have the tune tweaked. Here is the page from John's site that does have some more detail though (including the dual monitor that includes an AFR LED):

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/monitors.html

Instruction sheet as well (the version for mine is slightly different, but the basic details are covered):

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/MonitorInstall.gif

As usual, it's another great product from J&S, and a worthwhile accompaniment to the Vampire. As I dive in to its use a bit more, I'll be glad to keep adding to this thread!
 
#616 ·
While it is certainly not necessary to tune the car as you pointed out Joe, it really does, as you also pointed out, make the job a lot easier. Additionally, it is quite visible to the driver while operating the vehicle, which is the on going 'goodness' the gauge brings to the whole deal.

Very nice job and documentation, as usual, and excellent placement...:thumb:

I know I sound like a broken record on this topic but, for those who have not installed a Vampire you really need to. Gasoline's ability to detonate is unequalled by any other fuel but one and we don't run that one. There is a TV commercial for a product which I forget the name of but the commercial is set in a bank and goes something like this;

Bank Security Guard: There is a robbery in progress!

Bank Customer: Oh my goodness what are you going to do?

Bank Security Guard: Nothing.

Bank Customer: Well why not!?

Bank Security Guard: My job is to alert you to the robbery. I have now done my job.

Bank Customer: Well that's not particularly helpful!! (or words to that effect)

This is exactly like every knock detector for sale today does. They document what has happened after the fact!. But do nothing to prevent the problem or a re-occurrence of the problem. The only system that will detect the onset of detonation and then pull timing on a cylinder by cylinder basis, in real time, before the next ignition event to prevent a recurrence is the J&S Vampire.

You are playing Russian Roulette with more than one bullet in the gun if you do not use a Vampire on a supercharged gas engine - in particular PD blown supercharged gas engines. BTW all you turbo and centri guys need it too, the PD blown guys just need it more. I know this sounds extreme but I assure you, it is not.
 
#617 ·
^^Everyone on this site and those lurking will be wise to take this seriously!

Will keep updating the thread as I get more experience with the box, and especially an adjustment to the tune, but I'm confident this engine will keep running smooth.
 
#618 · (Edited)
Out for another spin today - just over 100 miles on the engine and all is well. The new gauge for the Vampire looks right at home, and didn't flash any lights at all, despite some spirited driving. With the WOT fuel bumped slightly, I'm assuming I'm running a hair richer, but I'm reluctant to do any real WOT pulls until I get on a dyno, which I'll most likely wait until fall when the cooler weather gets here. In the meantime, no complaints.

I also had the chance to look at some temperatures due to the swap out of the K&N FIPK for a Tunable Induction CAI that I've had new in the box for over a year. For those that remember the "original" kits from around 2000 known as the DenseCharger, made by John DeMolet, TI has just continued with these kits in a nice fashion, making them out of real heavy ABS plastic with a 4-1/2" ID.

Here's a picture of an early kit with two different filter options (mine came with the smaller one, which is supplied by Green Filter USA):

Automotive tire Font Material property Auto part Metal


Basically looks like this when laid out flat (the filter points 90° down when down behind the wheel well liner):

Hand tool Tool Auto part Office supplies Fashion accessory


In any case, with the K&N FIPK, the filter shield no longer sealed the filter from the hot air blowing through the radiator since the '00R hood is domed more than the OE Terminator hood. On hot days during any prolonged idle, the Inlet temperature (IAT1), would creep up over 140° and the Charge temperature (IAT2) would follow. During cruise it wasn't as much of an issue, but the IAT1 would still be over ambient and the IAT2 would be 120°+, which is probably relatively normal for a ported Eaton.

With the new CAI in place, IAT1 is always right at ambient (makes sense with the filter tucked in the fender), and so far, IAT2 at cruise has come down at bit to around 110° or a hair over. Unfortunately, I noticed that when sitting at idle (longer than just a stop for traffic), the IAT2 would also creep back up to close to 140°. Once moving, it would come back down quickly, but I surmise that is the norm. So far, so good.

Also, absolutely no issues with idle, and throttle response is still smooth. Here it is all installed (painted gloss black):

Car Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Personal luxury car


Another feature of a kit like this that I like is the ability to pull the OE inlet to inspect or change plugs without having to wrestle with a long plastic one-piece tube. For now, it will work just fine, but I'll see what the tuner has to say once I'm up on the rollers.
 
#619 ·
First of all, great job with the build and documentation. I was going to have my long block assembled but now I think that your thread has inspired me to do it myself. The timing components were the big unknown for me. And I also appreciate the "lessons learned" that you have shown the solution to. So thank you.

Second off, do you have any updates? I just took about 4 days and read through this entire thread. Now I'm wondering if you have any updates as far as dyno results?
 
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