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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#620 · (Edited)
No real updates - just have been driving the car and enjoying the heck out of this engine. I probably have a whopping 150 miles on it so far, but it gets more enjoyable each time I'm out. I do intend to get on a dyno sometime soon for any tweaking the tune may need along with a look at some final output numbers, but I'll probably wait until the fall when the temperature comes down a bit. Otherwise, all is well!

Glad you liked the thread - it should help out anyone building one of these engines, and even more so with the aluminum block. While there are a lot of small details to ponder, these projects are easily within the grasp of most. Keep everyone posted if you dive in!
 
#621 ·
I will surely keep people posted. There's a wealth of knowledge here that I didn't know about. I've mostly kept to SVTperf over the years. I've currently got an 04 Cobra with a KB 2.8 LC Mammoth on it. I'd like the new setup to be somewhere around 800 whp if possible! Where did you get the drawings? Your research is spot on and a lot of that stuff is hard to find!
 
#623 ·
Where did you get the drawings? Your research is spot on and a lot of that stuff is hard to find!
Not so much C-I-A as Ed suggests, just a bunch of friends that were with S-V-T;) Those pages are all from the super-secret Romeo plant build manual. More stuff I've been glad to share, with a lot of it on my own site (as Ed also mentioned!).
 
#622 ·
Joe is a retired career CIA Field Officer, Geoff. :)

Just Kidding. He is actually a UAL pilot and an extraordinary Terminator enthusiast. Check out his website =>Home. The site is not arranged as a typical website, that is you can't post to it but, it is a treasure trove of information both public and Ford insider.

Be sure to check out Cobra Bob's site also, =>https://stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_2004faqs.htm

Bob has been with the Terminator guys from the beginning and has a very complete information database (and cool products) also.

Ed
 
#625 ·
The pump is a direct bolt-in replacement. As for the oil pan, you can't go wrong with one that is larger (well, for the most part), especially with the HP/HV pump, but it also depends on what you plan to do with the car. My Canton pan is the "Road Race" version which was used in the '00R, but they also have one that is for drag racers.
 
#626 ·
That's awesome !! The HV/ HP pump comes with a pickup, or I can reuse my stock terminator pickup?

I will definitely upgrade pan to Canton . My car is street / drag car, but in the future I would like to take her to the road course track . What's the different between the Road race version vs Drag racing version. Since my car isn't a dedicated drag car only which one you recommend?

What's the Boundary Engineering part number?

Thank you and sorry for all the questions
 
#627 ·
You'll want to stick with the OE Terminator pickup since it's a "high flow" version. As for the pans, you'll have to check with Canton as to which one will be of benefit to you. I don't drag race, so the road race pan was a no-brainier, especially since I can still get on it and no worry about oil not being where I need it. Be sure to check with Boundary on the correct gears - Travis will know which gear to send based on what pump you use.
 
#632 · (Edited)
Wanted to add a quick update with some more on John's Vampire since I snagged a quick video clip of the gauge doing its thing. The engine is still running incredibly well, and within the next month or so (when the outside temps come down), I'll get on a dyno for a new tune. Otherwise, have about 350 miles on the engine and although I'm not getting on it too hard, it still pulls whenever the pedal is pushed!

In any case, managed to get this brief clip a few weeks back while doing a real light pull in to boost. It gets a little fuzzy (trying to hold my phone while watching the road), but you can see the LED's flicker as the Vampire kicks in. I noticed absolutely nothing detrimental with the engine, and after seeing the clip, John agreed that all is working as it should.

Clip hosted from PhotoBucket (with one screen shot below): http://vid118.photobucket.com/albums/o108/jrgoffin/20160731_112341_zpsbgarp0vo.mp4

Just in case that one no longer works, this should do it:https://www.dropbox.com/s/9sesypezg1l580k/20160731_112341.MP4?dl=0

Speedometer Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Gauge


I'm still a bit fuzzy on what's going on behind the scenes, but here is a cut-and-paste from an e-mail John sent me that should fill in some blanks (my S1 & S2 switches are both down, as an FYI):

The signal that goes to the gauge shows the amount of knock retard.

If mode switch S2 is UP, the signal would be a d.c. voltage that varies with the amount of retard, from 0-1.3v. The signal can change once every two revolutions, so the LED would move slowly.

The gauge would show one LED on, and the position would indicate the amount of retard. Because all cylinders are being retarded equally, the same LED is being hit eight times in a row, so it wold be very bright.

If mode switch S2 is DOWN, the signal is a pulse. The height of the pulse can vary from 0-1.3v. For an eight cylinder engine, the width of the pulse is 90° of crankshaft rotation. This signal can change with each cylinder.

Assuming S1 and S2 are both DOWN, If one cylinder is retarded 6°, and no others are retarded, you would see the 6th LED on, every time the retarded cylinder fires, so it would be dim and look like it's blinking.

As software re-advances toward the stock setting, you will see the LED move one position every twenty revolutions.

If two cylinders are retarded equally, the LED would be on twice as bright, since it is turned on twice in one engine cycle.

If a third cylinder is retarded by a different amount, you would see two LED's on, but one would be twice as bright as the other. Again, the position indicates the amount of retard.


I might try to get a bit more video down the road, but that may wait until I get the tune modified. More to come for sure.
 
#634 ·
Wanted to add a quick update with some more on John's Vampire since I snagged a quick video clip of the gauge doing its thing. The engine is still running incredibly well, and within the next month or so (when the outside temps come down), I'll get on a dyno to have the temporary tune tweaked. Otherwise, have about 350 miles on the engine and although I'm not getting on it too hard, it still pulls whenever the pedal is pushed!

In any case, managed to get this brief clip a few weeks back while doing a real light pull in to boost. It gets a little fuzzy (trying to hold my phone while watching the road), but you can see the LED's flicker as the Vampire kicks in. I noticed absolutely nothing detrimental with the engine, and after seeing the clip, John agreed that all is working as it should.

Clip hosted from PhotoBucket (with one screen shot below): http://vid118.photobucket.com/albums/o108/jrgoffin/20160731_112341_zpsbgarp0vo.mp4

View attachment 152505

I'm still a bit fuzzy on what's going on behind the scenes, but here is a cut-and-paste from an e-mail John sent me that should fill in some blanks (my S1 & S2 switches are both down, as an FYI):

The signal that goes to the gauge shows the amount of knock retard.

If mode switch S2 is UP, the signal would be a d.c. voltage that varies with the amount of retard, from 0-1.3v. The signal can change once every two revolutions, so the LED would move slowly.

The gauge would show one LED on, and the position would indicate the amount of retard. Because all cylinders are being retarded equally, the same LED is being hit eight times in a row, so it wold be very bright.

If mode switch S2 is DOWN, the signal is a pulse. The height of the pulse can vary from 0-1.3v. For an eight cylinder engine, the width of the pulse is 90° of crankshaft rotation. This signal can change with each cylinder.

Assuming S1 and S2 are both DOWN, If one cylinder is retarded 6°, and no others are retarded, you would see the 6th LED on, every time the retarded cylinder fires, so it would be dim and look like it's blinking.

As software re-advances toward the stock setting, you will see the LED move one position every twenty revolutions.

If two cylinders are retarded equally, the LED would be on twice as bright, since it is turned on twice in one engine cycle.

If a third cylinder is retarded by a different amount, you would see two LED's on, but one would be twice as bright as the other. Again, the position indicates the amount of retard.


I might try to get a bit more video down the road, but that may wait until I get the tune modified. More to come for sure.
Good stuff bud! I'm sold. C'mon tax time!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
#633 ·
John's stuff is just flat impressive Joe!

Watching it work like that in your video just demonstrates how precise his knock detection and correction is. There is simply no other unit available that can both detect and correct the knock. The speed with which John's system reacts is nothing short of impressive. I can not recommend this system highly enough for supercharged gas engines. It is the difference between loosing a motor to the occasional bad tank of gas or living to fight yet another day.

The Vampire should be the absolute very first purchase a supercharged gas engine owner makes. It will save you more than an order of magnitude it's price in parts that you would have otherwise lost to detonation.


Ed
 
#636 ·
John's stuff is just flat impressive Joe!

Watching it work like that in your video just demonstrates how precise his knock detection and correction is. There is simply no other unit available that can both detect and correct the knock. The speed with which John's system reacts is nothing short of impressive. I can not recommend this system highly enough for supercharged gas engines. It is the difference between loosing a motor to the occasional bad tank of gas or living to fight yet another day.

The Vampire should be the absolute very first purchase a supercharged gas engine owner makes. It will save you more than an order of magnitude it's price in parts that you would have otherwise lost to detonation.

Ed
It's definitely an item I was not only glad to add, but something I am equally intent on showing off, Ed! I know you dig it and have been a big supporter, and knowing it is doing what it is doing behind the scenes definitely makes it a must-have. I hope all the guys that have these projects in the works will be supporting John, especially since it is to their benefit.

Now if I could just get more miles on the engine to keep the fun factor up! Have meant to give you a buzz in recent weeks, but the plate has been full at home still. I suppose if I can get up to 500 miles before winter storage time that will be good. In the meantime, I'll try to have more up after the intended dyno session and tune tweaking as soon as I can!

Good stuff bud! I'm sold. C'mon tax time!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Definitely make it a priority!

The J&S unit is an absolute must for anyone pushing the limits. I purchased the knock finder gauge. Love it. Here is a video of mine while dialing it in.
Another thumbs-up there!
 
#639 ·
I'm getting ready to install mine once my car is on the road again. Rather than using the gauge, I'm choosing to datalog knock which i believe can be done using the 0-5v signal. Maybe John can chime in on this and how to set that up...
 
#640 ·
The range is 0 to 1.3v, in ten increments.

In individual cylinder mode (S2 down), the signal can change with each spark event, so you would need a very fast logger to see everything. A slow logger may miss the amount of retard or the number of cylinders being retarded, but will show when it occurred, which may be enough to help tune.

In retard all mode (S2 up), the signal can change once every to revolutions, so a slow logger should be able so show the amount of retard, as well as when it happened.

To log, you will need a 3.5mm STEREO male plug. Connect the "Ring" and "Sleeve" terminals to the input and ground of your logger. Ring is the signal.
Cable Font Cylinder Wire Camera accessory
 
#642 ·
Ok, that's how you set it to disable boost retard. With the Rate knob fully CCW, it retards zero degrees per psi.

I was just checking to see if you were still in boost when the unit detected something. Most engines have some piston slap in decel or low engine load, which will trigger false knock retard. To prevent this, the unit disables knock retard when it senses more than five inches of vacuum.
 
#643 ·
Quick question, how many posts per page is your thread and table of contents set up for?
I went to use it to find info on the cast aluminum GT500 oil pan, and I believe mine is set to the max since it only went up to 17 pages for all 642 posts.

Thanks, and thank you for taking the time to document things as well as you have.
I plan to read it in it's entirety when I get the chance.

Ken
 
#660 · (Edited)
Completely missed this post...from a few months back - my apologies!

The ToC I added was inadvertently based on 15 posts per page which was my setting. Once I realized that could be different for everyone, I updated the list with hyperlinks. That should make it much easier to jump to any section.
 
#645 ·
Not to worry, all - there is still a good tune in there (no heart attacks from Ed allowed)! I would definitely not get in to boost with an old tune, so other than some real minor tweaks, the one that is in could realistically be "the one". If I recall, this tune closely parallels one that was used with a ported Eaton running slightly more boost, so it's on the conservative side with this combination. I'm not sure how the bump in C/R has effected it, but I have no complaints right now as to how it runs. It will still get tweaked soon when I find the time, but I'm also curious how the power curve will change with the ported heads along with the other upgrades. With any luck, I'll be able to post a graph from a dyno sometime soon.
 
#647 ·
It will definitely get up on a dyno soon for some massaging:) Looking forward to seeing the numbers even though I wasn't out chasing anything specific. Hopefully will have updates not too far down the road!
 
#648 · (Edited)
Fall update: got in on the dyno for a new tune (one that I'd call ridiculously conservative - my choice!). Have to give a shout out to Jeff Chambers at CRT Performance in Norwalk, OH for getting me in and writing a real nice tune that has made the car even more enjoyable to drive - especially with the big weight reduction from the front end. Even better, the AFR is now a fat 11.3:1 (Ed had suggested this as well due to the 20% Ethanol in the 93 Octane around here), the idle is perfect and the power comes on so much smoother. Definitely was glad to get the overly-lean temporary tune out of there.

Even though I stopped short of a final pull that would have approached 7,000 RPM (and could have stepped up to about 21 or 22° of timing), the last one was close to 6,500 RPM and I was fine with that. With 18° for now, especially since the engine barely has 400 miles on it, I am real happy with it. In any case, the Aluminator did not miss a beat and was rock solid during the thrashing - a pat on the back for myself and this build! Standing back and watching the RPM's climb was still a bit nerve-wracking, but there was not one glitch the whole evening.

Anyway, on the Mustang Dyno, which I understand reads power about 10% less than a DynoJet (or does the DynoJet just come in at 10% or so more?), I was perfectly content at 469/444 (charts below). Interestingly enough, Jeff pulled up a graph from another car he had recently tuned that had a stock bottom end, along with a Steigmeier Stage 5 Eaton, and the same 2.93 blower pulley, and mine was about 40HP above it. That was about what I figured with the addition of the ported heads, '98 cams, and the slight bump in C/R from the Gibtec pistons.

From here on out, I'll enjoy the drives, and maybe will toss around the idea of a Whipple in another year or two. Otherwise, that essentially wraps this one up! Many thanks again to Ed and everyone that commented in this thread - I really hope it will continue to be a great reference for anyone that is planning to dive in to a project like this. I'll still be around - with a little less wrench turning - and as always, will answer (or try to answer) any questions that come up!

Video of the last pull (the FR-500 exhaust sounded amazing from this end despite the quality of the clip):

http://vid118.photobucket.com/albums/o108/jrgoffin/20161101_185442_zpsxim0qgmp.mp4

Just in case PhotoBucket isn't cooperating:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5mfnd40zt8p7ich/20161101_185442.mp4?dl=0

Scans of the charts:

Rectangle Slope Font Material property Parallel


Font Rectangle Parallel Number Pattern


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EDIT: Totally forgot to mention that the Vampire was flawless and with this good tune, it didn't make a peep (John sent me an e-mail to ask!!). This was in contrast to the temporary tune where the lights were flickering occasionally, but the new tune was so spot on that the Vampire did its thing in the background and didn't have to step in once. Glad to have it there for sure and know it will do what it does if necessary!
 
#649 ·
Very nice Joe!

That was a long road. I am particularly glad you got the tune. The Vampire will go a long way to protecting the investment but a good tune and a Vampire are even better.

I expect the car will provide a very satisfying driving experience and attitude adjustment vehicle whenever those sorts of thing might be required.

Awesome job, even more impressive documentation and a big thanks for sharing with everyone. :beerchug:


Ed
 
#651 · (Edited)
Very nice Joe!

That was a long road. I am particularly glad you got the tune. The Vampire will go a long way to protecting the investment but a good tune and a Vampire are even better.

I expect the car will provide a very satisfying driving experience and attitude adjustment vehicle whenever those sorts of thing might be required.

Awesome job, even more impressive documentation and a big thanks for sharing with everyone. :beerchug:

Ed
You aren't the only one glad about the tune, Ed! The driveability is so much better now: if it was like a whole new car with the new engine, it's like another new car yet again. To say it's an absolute blast to drive is an understatement. Even though the power numbers aren't through the roof, it is more than one could need on the street, especially with the sharpened handling thanks to the loss of weight from the front end. Overall, I couldn't be more pleased with how it turned out!

Also, sorry I missed your call the other day - had a bunch of friends in and out of here all weekend, so it's been a busy few days. Will definitely give you a shout shortly.

great job, joe! congrats and enjoy :beer:
Thanks, Chris - it has been a fantastic project. Even better, one that ran its course without one hiccup from start to finish. How could one not dig that, especially if all the details help out those that undertake a project like this some day:)

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Speaking of projects, I did have one more item to add: a new oil separator.

I had been running one of the "popular" pieces that was mounted up on the cowl adjacent to the PCV valve, but I always though that location just didn't give the oil vapor the ability to condense out and stay relatively clear of the intake. I probably could have just moved it farther away, but I decided it was time for an upgrade to one that is larger and theoretically more efficient. In any case, I have to give my buddy Tony credit for this since it's modeled after the layout he has on his '01 Kenne Bell Cobra. He also provided the inspiration to dive in to my own Terminator website since he has his own as well: Taz Cobra. What can I say, great minds think alike.

Anyway, this new billet can is sold by a company called 360 Infinite USA, although it is from another company called Automotive Design Depot (ADD - not really a great acronym to use!). I actually purchased it through "360" off their eBay store since it's not on their site for some reason, but it was a great deal at $75. A search for "ADD W1" or "oil separator" brings up a lot, and in my case, I snagged the satin black version.

A couple pics of it first (note the dipstick - a nice feature!):

Digital camera Camera lens Camera accessory Reflex camera Cameras & optics


Camera accessory Camera lens Audio equipment Gadget Font


Mounting it was a cinch using a slightly modified 2" flat corner bracket, and the perfect location for it is up near the intake, with the radiator support bolt securing it.

Close up of it mounted (my buddy Tony also has a similar KB CAI and placed his here as well):

Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood Automotive air manifold Automotive fuel system


The hoses are a bit of an eye sore, but function before form, so they'll work. I may, at some point, run them behind the strut tower using the openings that already exist, but for now, this will be fine. I picked up about 12' of 3/8" ID fuel line, and then needed one 3/8" coupler to mate the end to the intake tube that originally connected to the PCV valve, but it isn't complicated to figure out. Another view of the whole layout:

Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire


A view from further back - the complete finished project to officially wrap up this thread (I think!):

Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Car Automotive design


Unfortunately, winter is right around the corner, but the weather lately has still been nice enough to get the car out (and as we all know, they love the cooler air). Since my registration expires in just under two weeks, that was usually my indication that it was time for winter storage, and it may still be the case this time. If so, I'll definitely be looking forward to a fresh oil change in the spring (again, I will be switching to the Mobil1 0W-40 European formula at that time) and a whole heck of a lot more fun next season!
 
#653 · (Edited)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-W1-Blac...ash=item2ef057d89a:g:IEMAAOSwmtJXWa62&vxp=mtr

That's a link for the black one like mine. but looks like there is blue, red, purple, and polished aluminum as well. Weird that it didn't show up, but "ADD W1" did the trick. I probably should have mentioned that the eBay vendor ID is 360infinite-usa as well.

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EDIT: Another perfect option is to just search eBay for "oil separator" or "oil catch can". There are a lot that come up, especially like mine, and plenty others with some variation. Since the bulk of them are billet aluminum and are priced around $50 or so, they are a great bang for the buck.
 
#654 ·
Looks like in that link I posted, they just jacked the price up to $90.

I did find what looks to be the identical tank, but with no graphics for $60. It comes from China, unfortunately, but I imagine that may have been the source of mine anyway. Had I known, may have just scored this one, but the price difference wasn't enough to make a big deal:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-C...ash=item4b0b74e641:g:O7kAAOSwB09YGa-P&vxp=mtr
 
#655 · (Edited)
Just a quick note now that winter is officially here and my Cobra is tucked away in the garage for a few months...

As a follow up to the new oil separator, I wanted to add that it is fantastic and has collected a noticeable amount of oil in a very short time, more than the previous JLT version did in an entire season (or more). Although the original "ADD" version is all over the map in prices, the second one mentioned above seems to stay steady at $60 or less. This one is from the eBay vendor "kyostar888" and comes in a few different finishes:

Nickel Surveillance camera Cylinder Auto part Metal


My buddy Tony liked my new one so much that he ordered one for his own Cobra and has been very pleased as well. I've also received plenty of e-mail from guys that have picked up these tanks and really like them. For the price, they can't be beat.
 
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