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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#727 ·
For any Terminator enthusiasts reading this thread you will find two links at the bottom of Joe's posts. The first is to his Terminator-Cobra website. If you have not visited the site, you are missing out on what is perhaps the motherload of Terminator reference material available on the net.

There are a number of things that Joe has on the site that I have puzzled over how he got them. The where, is easy. It clearly came from internal Ford sources. I have never seen many of those tidbits out in the naked light of day before. BTW all the graphics on Joe's site are not always just graphics. Sometimes when you click on them they take you into a whole new realm of information.

An example of one of those hidden treasure chests is in the Engine subsection. When you first go there you will find another submenu of choices but you will not see any block or head links in the submenu. If you click on the picture of the Terminator Engine cutaway at the top center of the page it will take you over to an otherwise unlisted castings page with a ton of head and cylinder block information, identification cues and tech.

BTW the other link for the terminator-stat site, in his signature block, will take you to a custom thermostat page where you can get reliable low temperature 170˚ t-stats for a wide range of vehicles. BTW Joe donates a significant portion of those proceeds to St Judes Children's hospital, so the monies actually go to help needy children.

If you haven't taken a look it is definitely worth the time and effort. You will find Terminator information and downloadable Ford doc that I have rarely if ever seen elsewhere.

Closing thoughts;

Because the site is a reference site, the usual forum format is not supported however, a stunning amount of original Ford Terminator information and documentation is. There are significant portions of the information on Joe's site I simply have not been able to source anywhere else and there are other items that while available elsewhere are, many times, difficult to find.

Take a look, I think you will be impressed. Click here => Terminator Cobra

Ed
 
#728 ·
Thanks, Ed! I do enjoy the writing and am fortunate to have friends on the inside at Ford that helped me cultivate my Terminator fondness and share everything. Along with this ever-growing thread, I still find myself constantly editing the site, which is hard to believe with a car that is in the vicinity of 15 years old. Then again, it just shows how many of us out there still devoted to these fantastic mod motors and enjoy the tinkering.

On that note, for some strange reason, I decided to download the latest Ford Racing catalog yesterday and noticed that just about everything pertaining to the 4.6 is gone from it (which I imagine has been the case in the last few as well). You can still find a ton for pushrod engines, and of course it's loaded with Coyote parts, but it's as if the 4.6 never existed - pretty sad. Ford may have abandoned all interest to push the latest-and-greatest, but good thing there are still places to go in order to keep up on the tech!

Now if that Whipple would just hurry up and arrive...
 
#729 ·
On that note, for some strange reason, I decided to download the latest Ford Racing catalog yesterday and noticed that just about everything pertaining to the 4.6 is gone from it (which I imagine has been the case in the last few as well). You can still find a ton for pushrod engines, and of course it's loaded with Coyote parts, but it's as if the 4.6 never existed - pretty sad. Ford may have abandoned all interest to push the latest-and-greatest, but good thing there are still places to go in order to keep up on the tech!
Funny you mention the FRPP catalog. My Uncle works for FRPP and gave me a catalog last week and my initial thoughts was twofold........."wow is there a TON of support for S197/S550" and "what the hell happened to all the 4.6/5.4 stuff". Glad I wasn't the only one.

Side note for anyone.......is there a way to save or print an entire thread? Like as a PDF or Word document? I don't plan to build an engine for a couple years but when I do I'd love to have all this knowledge at my disposal.

Thanks.

--Joe
 
#733 ·
If you select the right parts, you can essentially end up with an extremely robust 4.6 based engine. We have a few blocks available that will hold more power than most any coyote block out there. When you port gt500 heads, they have potential to outflow the coyote heads.

If you're staying within the power limits of the coyote block, they are absolute monsters.
 
#734 · (Edited)
Here are some comparitive flow figures for inquiring minds. I thought I had ported GT500 head data w/1mm larger valves but I can't seem to find it so I used ported "C" head flow figures w/1mm larger valves. This is what the intake numbers look like. All flow test data was measured across a pressure drop of 28 inches of water.

Font Material property Rectangle Parallel Circle


The race ported GT500 head adds another 10% to 11% more flow (slightly more at some lift points) than the race ported "C" style Terminator heads. The Coyote flow figures were aftermarket CNC ported 2016 or 2017 flow figures and did not reflect the newer 2017 OEM CNC ported heads. In years gone by the OEM CNC porting while not a slouch, still did not compare to the aftermarket modified heads that were available. The flow figures for the ported "C" Terminator heads are ten years old, possibly older, so with what we have learned about porting these heads over the last ten years, it is possible there could be incremental improvements available there also.

The flow figures for the "C" heads were measured using a 3.552" stock bore cylinder. The flow figures for the Coyote heads were measured using a 3.629" stock Coyote bore cylinder. The larger Coyote cylinder bore un-shrouds the valves better than the smaller Modmotor 3.552" bore. The reduced flow compared to the Modmotor head is predominately due to the shorter valves and sharper bend in the intake runner as the air approaches the bowl behind the valve.

Even w/o going to the GT500 style head it is apparent that the "C" head in race ported form enjoys a measurable advantage over its sibling Coyote head in race ported form. When you take into consideration the 10 to 11% greater flow the race prepped GT500 head brings to the table, across the same lift scale, it quickly becomes clear why they are so popular - additional strength not withstanding.

The stunning "C" head low lift flow performance along with the corresponding max lift flow performance allow the 4.6L version of the engine extraordinary cylinder filling at all rpms but especially at high engine speed. The high engine speed I am referring to is the 10,000+ rpm these engines are capable of operating at with boost numbers in the 50 psi and higher range. There is a reason you don't see JM migrating to a Coyote platform. The upper rpm performance both in terms of cylinder head flow and engine operating speed that the 4.6L platform has simply eclipses of all of its competitors.

The only thing we are missing right now is an aftermarket source for heads and blocks but that may be coming. I have had discussions with some folks that are looking at the idea of offering the 4.6L pieces aftermarket including an interesting PD blower manifold that would allow the use of the GT500 head on the 4.6L platform providing for multiple injectors per port. As / if this develops I will share what information I have that is shareable.

Now imagine for a moment that you are Ford and you are trying to introduce a new Corporate Performance Platform called Coyote. Can you see why the 4.6L engine had to disappear ...

Ed
 
#735 · (Edited)
Good to see plenty of 4.6 love here. Then again, it's a good reason for all of us to be on this site, especially with all the engine projects.

On that note, still waiting on the Whipple, but the intercooler from LFP showed up today. Definitely a nice piece - real well put together (again, made by Griffin). I haven't taken my OE intercooler off yet for any more comparison photos, but it will get cleaned, wrapped up, and stashed away for safe keeping just in case.

Here are a couple quick cell-phone shots of it:

Grille Mesh Gas Rectangle Composite material


Grille Rectangle Gas Automotive exterior Composite material


Hopefully some more updates in the next week or so. Planning to have the Eaton off this weekend for sure and will fire up the engine one last time with it beforehand. Won't really be sad to see it go, although it has performed admirably, but really looking forward to the Whipple.
 
#736 · (Edited)
Getting ready for the Whipple, and it somewhat looks like where I was almost two years ago before firing up this engine for the first time. I wrestled out the Eaton blower this afternoon finally, and am waiting for the new box. I was told by a Whipple rep that the holiday season really backed up production, so even though I thought it would be here already, they are estimating it will ship sometime this week...or next (makes it about six weeks from order to delivery).

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Personal luxury car


Hood Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Car


Decided to add another custom touch and acquired a set of COP covers that are powder coated in the same color and finish as the Whipple housing. I'll miss the original GT COP covers I had, but I didn't think they would look that great now, especially since you can only see one side anyway. Also went ahead and had a custom plate made for the driver's side cover thanks to Jason at Anchor Room. If I ever get back to any shows, it will be nice to advertise this custom build as well as my website.

Motor vehicle Font Rectangle Bumper Automotive exterior


More to come, eventually (if I can figure out why the Image insert function got strange all of a sudden...)
 
#737 · (Edited)
Wanted to also add a couple more intecooler pictures for the heck of it since my OE version is out (stayed much cleaner than before thanks to the new oil separator)...

As previously mentioned, this one is wider and shorter by about 1/2" and is a 10-row compared to the OE 9-row - if that matters. Comparison pics, which I added to the appropriate section on my site:



Side-by-side of the inlets that I put together in PhotoShop with the "bar-and-plate" Garrett on the left, and "extruded-tube" Griffin on the right:



Had heard of a couple guys recently that didn't have an adequate coolant mixture in their tank(s) and froze up their intercoolers, causing them to split open. Almost wish I would have snagged one just to saw in half out of curiosity. In any case, not expecting any big difference with the new one, but I'll be glad I can stash the factory part since they are getting more and more scarce every day - especially in places where the temps slip below freezing.
 
#738 ·
I wish there was a side by side comparison on a flow bench to see if the shorter IC allows the air to "S" curve into the combustion chamber easier (increasing power and reducing inlet temps). The OEM IC sure is close to the bottom of the lower intake manifold.

--Joe
 
#739 · (Edited)
Yeah, I also wish there was more info out there, but unfortunately there is not. It will be interesting to see if the additional space at the bottom of the intake will make a difference, but there is only one way to find out.

I have heard of a few of the intercoolers not passing QC due to the upper plate warping after it is welded on, so it would have been nice to grab a "scrap" one to cut open as well. I'd assume there had been testing done on these back in the day, but you know what is said about assuming! Also, I did notice the OE intercooler upper place is a stamping that is dropped on, tack welded on the sides, then is filled along the upper rim with some sort of sealant. Interesting way to make them, but Griffin does apparently realize the issues with welding (although there is no sealant to break apart) and I can see mine was decked just like a cylinder head to ensure it is level.

For some more trivia, I dug around as much as I could and discovered these came out in late '08 and were originally marketed by a place called Velocity Turbo Systems (and then later, Amazon Tuning). Since VTS is no longer around, and I don't know much about Amazon, LFP got in on them for whatever reason. I did also read that they had been revised a couple of times, so the people that mentioned no difference in IAT's may have been using an earlier version.

A couple original ads that are still floating around the web:



 
#740 · (Edited)
There is some interesting cooling data for beer wort chillers, of all things, that might offer some insights. Beer wort chillers are used to cool beer in our local pubs and elsewhere when it is stored in kegs. The chiller's chilling capacity is determined by both the cross sectional area of the chiller (in the direction of beer flow) and also the length of the chiller from entry to exit.

As it turns out the cross sectional area of the chiller is related to the volume of beer that can be processed per unit time. The length of the chiller is related to the temperature drop you can expect from inlet to outlet. Generally speaking longer is colder and wider is more beer colder sooner. The IC we use under the blower is similar but not the same.

If we read the original benefit statement for the newer design Griffin units the representation reads;

'The factory Mustang intercooler has inherent design flaws causing only a portion of the hot incoming air to be cooled while passing through the factory intercooler. One of these flaws is fluid getting clogged inside the cooling tubes causing water to stagnate and become hot which results in a much hotter IAT2 Temperature. This is why aftermarket cooling products such as the LFP Extreme Dual Pass Intercooler Heat Exchanger are popular to help cool the water before it even reaches the intercooler. In essence, the factory Cobra intercooler removes only a portion of the heat from the air charge which is why heat soak and power loss are common among Ford SVT Cobras, especially during the hot summer months. The air charge is constantly monitored by the vehicles computer and has a direct impact on the engine timing which is essential in making horsepower.'

While the statement about clogged tubes can certainly occur the real design benefit, I suspect, is the additional cooling row and the dual pass design that LFP/Garret identify for this intercooler. Like a single pass vs dual pass radiator the dual pass heat exchanger design should, theoretically provide increased heat sinking capacity for the incoming air charge exiting the blower. The additional row in the cooling core adds ~10% more air flow capacity and cooling capacity to the original design Garret built for Ford.

Like larger inlet plenums on blowers and tunnel ram manifolds, the increase in space (volume) below the IC when it is installed in the manifold allows more room for the incoming air charge and potentially some reduction in the incoming manifold air velocity for a more uniform / consistent port to port delivery of the cooled air charge.

I think the dyno chart manifestation may be quite small but still above the normal noise level dyno run to dyno run. The real benefit I would think is a much more robust design and yes also a slight tick up in IC performance over the OEM design. The workmanship on the newer Griffin design that LFP is offering is definitely a step up over their original Garrett effort for Ford. The idea of welding the mounting flange vs sealing it with a filler is a much more attractive finished goods solution - no filler to loosen up over time and go where it should not.

Very nice piece, Joe.

Ed
 
#741 ·
Comparing beer chillers to intercoolers is a great way to go, Ed! Definitely can put it in to perspective that way:)

While I didn't look at this as something that would provide some massive improvement (as you mentioned, the dyno chart manifestations may be quite small), I'm very interested in it's performance as an OE-like replacement due to the continuing dwindling supply of them. The extra cooling row and additional space for the air to make the turn did intrigue me as well. I have contemplated calling Griffin to see if they'd share any info on R&D, so I'll report back if I find anything, and will certainly do so once the weather gets nice here and I can drive again.

I do know that some guys griped about these back in the day, but considering they have been around for almost 10 years now, I'm confident its robustness will still make it a worthwhile replacement. Since it sounds like Griffin did get some early kinks out, I'm not sweating giving it a go. Now if the box from Whipple would just get here...
 
#742 · (Edited by Moderator)
After a potentially record-setting 7 week wait, the new toy finally arrived the other day. Almost done getting everything back together and will add some more updates when I get the time over the next couple of weeks. For now, a couple pictures with the new style Ford Racing emblems (purchased separately and attached after). These Whipple blowers are just fantastic looking!
 

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#743 ·
Since the photo uploader seems to be giving me fits lately, wanted to at least add one more picture of some weekend progress. Hopefully will wrap it up shortly, but its all looking nice, and I'll add some more details soon enough!
 

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#745 · (Edited)
All solo, Ed - just like when the engine went in! I broke a little bit of a sweat, but it wasn't too bad to wrestle with it myself. Hopefully from here on out, I can take a break and just have some fun:)



 
#746 · (Edited)
With the engine up and running - again - I've had some time over the last couple weeks to do some reading on the intercoolers and figured it would be worth sharing some more info. Even though the factory Garrett intercooler has worked fine all these years, with their dwindling supply, the "upgraded" Griffin version did fascinate me enough to keep researching them (and I've taken some flak over that by people who say there is no way the OE version can be beat). The new one is in, and the coolant is flowing nicely by the way, but I can't really comment on the IAT's yet since the car won't leave the garage for a couple more months. In any case, the downstream temps while at idle have been sitting about 30° warmer than the upstream (i.e., 70° inlet and 100° outlet), which may or may not be significant.

Moving on, I happened to get my hands on a leaky OE intercooler and decided to have some fun with it by "taking it apart". I'd imagine the insides of them have never been seen (not that they are overly complicated), but wanted to share some of the findings before I update this thread again with some tips and tricks that went along with the Whipple installation - not that those are too difficult either. I also added this stuff to the Cooling page on my site.

So, here is the donor. In this picture, much of the sealant along the top had rotted away, so I pulled the rest off which somewhat shows the gaps around the flange:

Grille Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Gas Rectangle


The mounting plate is just a stamping that is set on top, with some welds on the sides to secure it before the sealant is added. There are probably plenty that leak once the original sealant comes apart, but that can be fixed easily enough (which can still be an inconvenience). The top plate removed once I cut all the welds:

Wood Rectangle Bumper Gas Automotive exterior


The intercooler body as it sits "naked":

Grille Rectangle Automotive exterior Wood Gas


Once that was done, I sawed the rear end cap off to show a cross-section of the core (along with the crud that I didn't bother to clean out). The coolant flows in through the lower half of the body, then pools in the end cap and is then pumped up and towards the front where it exits to the tank. Here you can see the upper and lower half with some details I added (again, looking at it from the rear):

Rectangle Font Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Wood


That same view next to the end cap, also showing the coolant flow direction (If your pump croaks, the coolant is definitely just going to sit there and get toasty). I probably mentioned already that these have 9 rows, but this one happens to be mucked up on the outsides with the welds, so it may have limited some of the flow back to the tank, making it kind of a 7-1/2 row version...

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The front and rear end caps side-by-side. The inlet is a bit restricted as you can see, thanks to the divider plate and probably partially due to the way the inlet tubes fit on the intake manifold (showing again, the coolant flow, minus the actual intercooler body obviously):

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With all that in mind, I wasn't about to buy another Griffin intercooler to cut up and see what has improved, but I have my thoughts. It may have to do with the size of the halves, at the very least, since it appears the lower (cooler side) is larger than the upper (hot side). There's also the additional row of fins, plus the better design. With no sealant on the top, it isn't going to leak there, so that is nice as well. Maybe I can get some info right from Griffin or LFP, but those are my insights so far. Here's a side-by-side again from the front of both (the frontal dimensions are about 4 x 3" for the Garrett and 3-1/2 x 3-1/2" for the Griffin):

Wood Rectangle Audio equipment Font Gas


Anyway, after doing some reading comparing the fin design, I have seen arguments that the OE bar-and-plate is more efficient, but most say the extruded tubes are better since they allow more coolant flow and heat transfer, which I would tend to agree with. Here's a generic comparison of the two, with the OE-style on the right:

Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber Rectangle Automotive lighting


From the charge side, the air is potentially going to flow smoother with the extruded-tube fins since they are all rounded, whereas the bar-and-plate multi-piece design is flat. I found this picture on the internet illustrating that:

Grille Automotive tire Hood Automotive parking light Automotive lighting


Something else I found that is interesting is that Whipple is making their kits for the S550 Mustang with their own intercooler that is also shorter, which is exactly the way this version sits. Theoretically, the incoming air can make a smoother turn at the bottom, which was probably a consideration with the new Griffin version being shorter as well. Not sure how much of an advantage that really offers, but they must have felt it was also worthwhile. An image of one of their kits illustrating some finer points:

Motor vehicle Line Font Cylinder Automotive design


Otherwise, I'm looking forward to hitting the road again one of these days once the weather gets nicer, and will keep this thread updated, especially since I'll get to the dyno again soon as well. Will also add some more pictures with the Whipple install in the near future.
 
#748 · (Edited)
One of these days I need to call it complete, but the only thing really left stock on the car is the transmission. Now if I blow that apart and need to pick up a Magnum, well...hopefully I can just contribute obscure tech and just enjoy the drives from here on out!

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Since the Whipple install went just fine, figured I would add a few more tidbits here, more or less just for FYI purposes since the installation is pretty straightforward. If I didn't add the link before (although it's on my site), the nice people at Whipple sent me the PDF of the Ford Racing installation guide which is nice to have for reference even though they include a hard copy with the kits:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/Whipple FR installation manual.pdf

Also, if you are swapping out a supercharger, the applicable section from the Ford service manual comes in handy since the torque specs of the small bolts are definitely important. That is on my site as well:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/Cobra Eaton Install.pdf

In any case, just some additional tips that made this go smoothly...

With reference to the intercooler, I fell in to the "trend" with the previous one to use the bead of silicone all the way around the flange which is a pain to clean off if you ever have to pull it. As an FYI, the factory only uses a short bead of sealant adjacent to the TMAP (IAT2) sensor:



A great tip passed on to me by my buddy Tony, who received it from KB was to use anaerobic sealer instead, such as Loctite 518 or Motorcraft TA-16: it goes on and comes off much easier. Since the flange on the new intercooler was basically perfect, I had no issue using a small bead, which set up nicely:



The intercooler mounted up, using the supplied allen-head bolts from Whipple (they put a nice set of Grade 12.9 bolts in with the kits):



After that, bolting the blower down to the intake was a cinch. I also acquired a new intake manifold gasket (mentioned in Post#710) since the original was pretty flat after the re-install of the ported Eaton. One tip for the intake to make it easier to drop the whole assembly in is to grind off the small flange on the back that is used to hold the engine harness with those push-pin fasteners. It's pretty tight back there, but for reference, here's the flange with the tab (from P.19):



With the harness attached the first time (from P.21):



I cut off the small tab and removed the push-pin from the harness (also made sure to re-wrap that section of it), but should have just ground down most of this flange. Not a big deal since it worked out fine anyway:

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


Another view of the back of the Whipple with stuff getting attached before dropping it in (I hope I never have to remove that plenum with the blower still in the car!):

Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Auto part


Being "somewhat" finicky, I also decided to pick up new lower intake bolts that were stainless so they would match the rest of the hardware. The ones I acquired are also a slight step up as a Grade 10.9, with a flanged head. The size is M6-1x35, which were from Bel-Metric for about $0.50 each: BF6X35FCLZ. If you need the original ones from Ford, they are a whopping $7 each now, so the new ones fit the bill perfectly. Here's a comparison shot of old and new:

Rectangle Triangle Font Metal Fashion accessory


Otherwise, everything went together fine, and the new LFP throttle body looks great and delivers a factory-like idle just as the previous one did:



Also, after about an hour of idle time (a couple 30 minutes runs to check for anything weird), the belt loosened up a hair which meant it was easier to get the Whipple tensioner nice and snug. This is also thanks again to the Roush tensioner arm, and I'll also mention that the Continental Elite belts are nice and quiet:



From here, I just need to wait a couple more months for winter to blow by, and then I'll probably get on the dyno again just to see the improvement (and in case any tweaking of the tune is in order). With any luck, I can also take a break from writing!
 
#749 ·
Great build man. Lots of useful info I use for mine. Question on your intercooler as its a very nice piece and the unit interests me. I'm trying to figure out how to reduce my systems restrictions. Do you have any insight on the differences in performance of the aftermarket unit vs a j2fabrication modified factory unit? Does the aftermarket unit have bigger inlets and outlet for the water? Judging by your picture they look like the exact same size. I do like that is shorter to smooth out the air path in the lower intake.
 
#750 · (Edited)
Thanks, and glad you have enjoyed the thread. Hard to believe it's been cranking away for almost 2-1/2 years now! If only Ed hadn't lured me in with those work-of-art pistons;)

As far as the Griffin intercooler versus the J2F modified version, I'll admit that I have very little knowledge of it other than understanding he opens up the flow tubes on the stock unit. I'm not sure if there is any more modification further in (and not being a fluid dynamics expert), I don't know if that really does increase the flow with the "ramp" in the inlet. With the Griffin version, there is a slight droop in the lower tube as the coolant flows in, but it's not as drastic as the factory part. You can see the restriction on the Ford part here from this picture a few posts back:



Inlet shot of the Griffin inlet that may help (a little dip, but not drastic):

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OE close-up as well (noticeable difference):

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I did get a comment from Justin through another venue based on statements from my site that the Griffin unit is the only aftermarket intercooler on the market: he mentioned that I was incorrect since he produces one as well. That being said, his is custom and around $1,000 from what I understand, which I think places it outside the realm of being an "OE replacement" since most guys will just scrounge for a used one. Not that I want to bash it, but I just don't have any knowledge of the stuff. Had I known about it (and maybe if I could have acquired one at a reasonable price), I may have even tried it out.

In any case, from some idle time in my garage, I'm seeing some favorable results so far compared to the Garrett version. Not that those numbers will be conclusive at all right now, but with the engine heat swirling around (leading to IAT1 temps that nudge their way up towards 80°) the downstream figure has been decent so far. I'll definitely look forward to getting on the road soon, and with the tweaks to this intercooler, I think I will be quite happy with it. From what I see of it, the "updates" seem perfectly justified. As soon as I can play more, I will definitely keep adding to this!
 
#751 ·
Thanks, and glad you have enjoyed the thread. Hard to believe it's been cranking away for almost 2-1/2 years now! If only Ed hadn't lured me in with those work-of-art pistons;)

As far as the Griffin intercooler versus the J2F modified version, I'll admit that I have very little knowledge of it other than understanding he opens up the flow
tubes on the stock unit. I'm not sure if there is any more modification further in (and not being a fluid dynamics expert), I don't know if that really does increase the flow with the "ramp" in the inlet. With the Griffin version, there is a slight droop in the lower tube as the coolant flows in, but it's not as drastic as the factory part. You can see the restriction on the Ford part here from this picture a few posts back:



Inlet shot of the Griffin inlet that may help (a little dip, but not drastic):

[iurl="http://www.modularfords.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166826&stc=1&d=1519529256"]
[/iurl]

OE close-up as well (noticeable difference):

[iurl="http://www.modularfords.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166834&stc=1&d=1519529604"]
[/iurl]

I did get a comment from Justin through another venue based on statements from my site that the Griffin unit is the only aftermarket intercooler on the market: he mentioned that I was incorrect since he produces one as well. That being said, his is custom and around $1,000 from what I understand, which I think places it outside the realm of being an "OE replacement" since most guys will just scrounge for a used one. Not that I want to bash it, but I just don't have any knowledge of the stuff. Had I known about it (and maybe if I could have acquired one at a reasonable price), I may have even tried it out.

In any case, from some idle time in my garage, I'm seeing some favorable results so far compared to the Garrett version. Not that those numbers will be conclusive at all right now, but with the engine heat swirling around (leading to IAT1 temps that nudge their way up towards 80°) the downstream figure has been decent so far. I'll definitely look forward to getting on the road soon, and with the tweaks to this intercooler, I think I will be quite happy with it. From what I see of it, the "updates" seem perfectly justified. As soon as I can play more, I will definitely keep adding to this!
Thanks for the info. Im looking forward to your real world data from your new blower and intercooler.
I know what you mean about the pistons being a work of art. Seeing all the picture from you and other people having a set lured me in as well!
 

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#752 ·
Very nice looking Gibtec there, Stuntstere! My uncalibrated eyeball puts the c/r in the 12:1 neighborhood. I presume your intended fuel is going to be ethanol at the E85 level or higher.

I'll offer some unsolicited commentary about the alcohols. While the alcohol fuels are unusually detonation resistant they are not detonation proof. Although it is hard to detonate them, as compression and boost are increased, the potential for detonation also increases. The ethanol family of fuels puts the engine owner at a particular risk because of the wide variability that DOE allows in the formulation of the fuel(s).

There is an excellent publication from DOE that speaks to this variability, here is a link to it,=> DOE Ethanol Gasoline Blend Fuels Handling, Storing, Dispensing. It turns out the commercially available fuels identified as E85 are seasonally adjusted for alcohol content and DOE allows them to be varied by the suppliers, between 51% and 81% never reaching 85% ethanol and still be sold as E85. BTW the reason for never reaching 85% is the addition of at least a 2% denaturant (a hydrocarbon or hydro-carbons in the gasoline boiling range) to make it unfit for human consumption.

The variability is called out in the ASTM 5798 document for both seasonal and geographic formulations. The DOE document referenced above contains the ASTM table for their Seasonal and Geographical Volatility Classes by month and also geographic location. When using the fuel it is important to remember that the allowable range of ethanol content is even wider than that specified by DOE and will range from 51% to 81% while still being sold as E85.

When testing for ethanol content all of the currently available "kits" offered to guys like us will give you a false reading because they use a volumetric rather than a gravimetric measurement methodology. The difference is easiest to explain like this. If I mix 9 quarts of liquid 1 with one quart of liquid 2 intuitively you would express the mixture as a 90% mix of liquid 1. The representation would not be incorrect, volumetrically speaking.

When the liquids we are mixing are fuels we can not use volume as the mixing metric, we must use fuel weight or more accurately fuel specific gravity. The fuel percentage becomes a gravimetric measurement not a volumetric measurement. The reason for this is our EFI systems measure fuel and air by weight not by volume and inject to meet a weight target we recognize as lambda or AFR. To get the mixture correct we end up having to shoot for a specific gravity target for the combined mixture. Watch the guys running Nitro mix their fuel before filling the tank. They continuously add small quantities of alcohol until the hydrometer hits the specific gravity for the Nitro percentage they are targeting. They do not mix by volume.

In boosted, high compression Ethanol fueled engines the procedure is identical. BTW the fuel sensors that Detroit uses to sense fuel in a n/a flex fuel vehicle are easily fooled. They are looking for gasoline. The assumption is that if there is no gasoline then the fuel must be 100% ethanol. If there are traces of gasoline then the fuel must be a mix of ethanol and gas. Sadly if you run water through the sensor it will read 100% ethanol because it 'sees' no gas and assumes the content to be 100% ethanol.

Why all the hyper attention to ethanol percentage? Because, even with 100% ethanol, in a supercharged high compression engine it is easier than most people believe to detonate the fuel. When you do it with boost, high compression and under power this is what happens;

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Gasoline will burn a piston, push out a head gasket and might even slightly torch a head or block deck. The alcohols will blow up your engine! Not trying to scare anybody, these fuels are wonderful power creators but if you overreach the destruction can be impressive. The boosted engine and the compression ratio you are using give you the ability to overreach - especially on ethanol mixes. I am encouraging a modicum of caution, good judgement and engine protection (read J&S Vampire). The sick feeling after an engine failure like this can not be explained it can only be experienced.

FWIW, the time lapse between the onset of detonation and engine failure was 800 milliseconds - less than a second. Even if it were possible to hear the initial sounds of the detonation (which it is not) it would still be impossible to get your foot out in time to save the engine. For a frame of reference, at 7200 rpm your engine will make 120 turns of the crankshaft in 1 second and produce 60 ignition events. It took less than that to destroy the block in the picture above - in less than one second! Naturally aspirated engines have a more forgiving operating window.

BTW, all the gloom and doom aside, it would be interesting if you would share some of your build details, with the guys here, in a build thread of your own.

Ed
 
#753 ·
You are correct. They were spec'd at 12.0:1. After everything is said and done the engine will end up at 12.3ish area from some quick calculations. Had to have some material taken off the heads and the felpro gaskets are a touch thinner then the factory one. The fuel of choice is ethanol. The fuel will be from ignite fuels. I've decided I don't drive my car enough that running a barreled fuel won't be too big of an issue. Plus I'll know I'm getting quality and consistency.
 
#754 ·
The quality and consistency from a barreled fuel supplier is definitely worth the effort. None the less, still use good judgement, the engine block in the picture also used a quality barreled fuel at the 99.99x% pure level.

The offer/solicitation for your build thread is still still open. I know there are any number of guys on the site here that would appreciate the opportunity to see how you went about your particular engine build.


Ed
 
#755 ·
The quality and consistency from a barreled fuel supplier is definitely worth the effort. None the less, still use good judgement, the engine block in the picture also used a quality barreled fuel at the 99.99x% pure level.

The offer/solicitation for your build thread is still still open. I know there are any number of guys on the site here that would appreciate the opportunity to see how you went about your particular engine build.

Ed
I will definately error on the side of caution when I begin to tune. Hopefully I can build some safety into my tune since I'll being using a Holley system. I'll definitely think about starting a build thread as I'm still collecting my parts to put this car back together along with researching and learning from others to influence my part choices and specifications for the build. The only downfall is I'm not very good at recording my work. I also go through spouts where I'm interested in the car for about a month, then uninterested the next month as I work on cars for a living. Most of the time it doesn't seem appealing to come home a work on cars some more. Haha
 
#756 · (Edited)
Nothing extremely monumental to update with this thread, other than today being the first chance I had - after four months of waiting - to get in a drive behind the new Whipple. The twin-screw definitely did not disappoint and the rest of the engine purred away just fine. I didn't get too crazy since I'm planning to get back on the dyno sometime soon just to make sure all is good with the tune, but having the instant boost (running right up to 15psi in a snap) has definitely jacked up the fun factor. With the 60's, BAP, and MAFia, I see absolutely no need to make any "improvements" to the fuel system.

With outside temps near 80°, I was also pleased to see how the new intercooler functioned. During some "normal" driving, the IAT2 reading hovered around 110°, which I seem to recall is about 30° or so below where it would end up with the Eaton/OE intercooler combo. Granted, the twin-screw probably helps keep the temperature down, but even when I'd get on it, bringing the IAT2 up to just over 120°, it didn't take long for it to recover and come back down to 110ish. So far, so good.

Once back in the garage with a few minutes at idle, the IAT1 shot up to about 110° thanks to all the hot air being blown around by the fan, but that was expected. The IAT2 did then run up to 130°, but that didn't worry me thanks to the higher IAT1, especially with the Whipple housing now at 150°+ per my IR thermometer. The coolant temp was normally right in the high 170's (with my 170 thermostat), and would occasionally work up in to the high 180's with a load on the engine. Not out of the ordinary there either.

A couple other items for the heck of it...

First, the Vampire performed perfectly as usual. I noticed a couple flickers of the LED's early on before the engine was up to normal operating temperature (I normally wait until that point before I drive off, but time was a bit of an issue), but there was nothing abnormal going on that would give me any cause to worry. John even updated the software in the unit for me last month, so I'm confident it will be doing it's thing so I can put many more miles on the engine without any hitch. So, definitely another plug for it - thanks again John!

Also, since this was the first time I got to experience the new G-Force axles, they were flawless as well. Even better, in conjunction with the poly bushings and the correct 14mm front cradle bolts - there is absolutely none of the typical "Cobra clunk" that accompanies the stock half-shafts. I don't do clutch dumps, but when getting marginally frisky, the rear end still stayed planted nicely. Definitely looking forward to putting some more miles on the engine this year now that the car is even more of a blast to drive:)
 
#757 · (Edited)
Nothing like a happy ending, Joe!

I am glad for you and your build experience. The outcome you have realized is partly due to your selection and use of good parts like the Whipple but largely due to your attention to detail during assembly and the consistently top shelf quality of your build practices. Great job, great thread and a happy ending. Hard to improve on that. :)


Ed
 
#758 ·
It's been a great ride, Ed - literally and figuratively.

Now that I've turned this Cobra in to my own version of the perfect car, hopefully I can do nothing but just enjoy the heck out of it for a long while. I suppose that does mean that there may not be too many more updates to this thread unless guys chime in with more questions and comments, but I'm glad to keep it going. When the next dyno run is in the books, I'll also be sure to get those charts added here as well!
 
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