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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



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I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#47 · (Edited)
Something else to add, and jumping a bit ahead, is a minor quirk of the aluminum block: the front cover compatibility. Actually, the Terminator cover fits fine on the aluminum 4.6 blocks, but there is one bolt hole - adjacent to the water pump - that is out of place. The exception here is the actual FRPP-sourced block: they pre-drill this hole and add a plug for you in the other. The picture below shows the front of my Aluminator (again, scored from a 3V GT, but still the same block) with a red dot marked where the one offending bolt hole lines up on the Terminator cover:

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive design


The bolt hole below it, and to the left (looking at it from the front) does not get used. So far, I have just added a small Allen-head set screw to fill it. For reference, here is the timing cover with the open bolt hole circled, which most just fill with RTV to seal:

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All that being said, if you decide that filling it with RTV is not something that appeals to you, it is entirely possible to drill and tap for a bolt (a plastic plug or even a set screw tapped in to just the cover is also an easy option). Oddly enough, the FRPP timing kit (M-6004-A464) actually does include the CORRECT bolt for that position. Here's where you have to pay attention: that bolt is app. 40mm in length whereas the others are 53mm. If you use the cover to line up the hole for drilling and tapping, you do not drill it to the same depth as the others or you will drill through in to the coolant passage!! Also, take in to account that the timing cover is about 28mm thick there, so you'll only be drilling about 12mm.

Here are the two pages from the FRPP kit instructions that show that bolt position again (purple triangle, #5), along with the list of bolts that get used:

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The lone 40mm bolt is W705128-S437, and if you look it up in the Ford parts system, it actually comes up as an SUV oil cooler bolt. Fortunately, it is still available if you decide to use it, and it's only about $2. Since I'm still deciding whether or not to drill and tap the one on my block, I also realized that I can bolt the Cobra Engineering tensioner arm dowel drill plate to one of the water pump bolt holes and get it to line up where I need it. An option for sure, but no action taken as of yet.

As another FYI, here are the bolts in question. From left to right: 53mm, 40mm, and 40mm oil cooler bolt (the same ones I have for my Aluminum block). It appears that Ford updated the bolt since one has a 10mm hex and the other is 13mm, but I'm not sure which one is newer. Also, the thread pitch is 8mm-1.25. The one in the FRPP kit has the 13mm hex, but both will work if you decide to use it. Again, don't drill too deep or you will break in to the coolant passage!!

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#50 ·
Thanks, James. A jig for that hole would be another cool product from you, otherwise, there is a bit of slop in the timing cover to center punch it first.

I'm in no hurry since I won't be degreeing the cams for another month or so (am under orders from Ed to have him on the phone for adult supervision!) and won't be dropping this engine in until sometime over the winter. Thanks again!
 
#51 ·
James, that's not a bad idea. As Joe pointed out, theres a bit of slop in the timing cover - even with all of the bolts threaded in. It's not something critical like the timing guide pins but would help some of us out. I'm still trying to track down an aluminum block for my build so if you need someone to try out a new fixture, let me know.

Joe - Great info once again. As mentioned, I still can't find a block to get going on mine but i'm starting to acquire some necessary parts that I need. This thread is going to help me out a TON.
 
#52 ·
Another suggestion, Jon: see if you could score a long-block from an '05 Aviator. That engine did get the DC heads from Ford, and chances are, you could get a Nemak block in the process. Of course if you are set on Teksid, this is irrelevant. Worst case, there still may be a lot of the blocks in yards from wrecked 3V Mustangs, too!
 
#54 ·
I will be pulling heads/engines from Aviators as soon as they start showing up in the local u pull it yard... Haven't seen one yet, but their time is coming soon. 10 years old, a minor crunch will total them.
 
#53 ·
I'm leaning towards buying a short block or long block and selling the parts that I don't need. I just didn't want to deal with the hassle of selling heads and a bottom end out of another engine but this may be my only option right now
 
#56 · (Edited)
Another worthwhile bit of info pertaining to the timing chains and tensioners...

As mentioned, three of the four tensioners are positioned to put pressure on the slack, or "non-driven" side of the chains, with the passenger secondary being the exception. Fortunately, the kit from James takes care of this and with a swap of the internal parts from the OEM part, you have a new one that corrects this.

Here again is the link from Cobra Engineering that also contains an additional link back here showing how easy it is to make the modification:

http://cobraengineering.net/tensioner.html

Just for the heck of it, I took one of the original diagrams from the Romeo build manual and tweaked it to make this more clear. If you are degreeing your cams and want to be precise as possible with the timing, hit up James for one of these tensioner bodies!

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Here, again, is the new tensioner mounted on the passenger side head with the plunger facing UP. It's a work of art!

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#57 ·
On my Teksid, I decided I didn't want to drill and tap that timing cover hole. So I cut a bolt short and RTV'ed it into the timing cover to plug the hole. While still appealing to my OCD that I didn't have an empty bolt hole. Or one that looked like it was simply full of RTV LoL

See you can't even tell! 823 miles later she's dry as a bone! No oil leaks
 
#58 ·
On my Teksid, I decided I didn't want to drill and tap that timing cover hole. So I cut a bolt short and RTV'ed it into the timing cover to plug the hole. While still appealing to my OCD that I didn't have an empty bolt hole. Or one that looked like it was simply full of RTV LoL
Another good idea. Fortunately for the Terminator crowd, that bolt and the hole will be hidden behind the pulley bridge, but it will still drive plenty of us nuts knowing it is there!
 
#61 · (Edited)
The tool collection for the degreeing process is complete, now just have to set aside some time for the big day, especially since I know I'll be conferring with Ed here.

I had grabbed the TFS "supplemental" kit a few weeks back, and the timing wheel with the ProForm crank adapter is shown in the previous post. The TFS kit is really a bonus since it includes the lash adjuster & tool, a much necessary extension for the dial indicator, and a steel plate to mount it. The kit was $50 from Summit (you can also buy the lash adjuster separately for about $30, but this kit makes it easy to round everything up at once), under p/n TFS-90100:

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Also necessary are the valve spring compressors, which I splurged for from Freedom Racing in a single kit for $160:

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The OTC compressors are most likely easy enough to acquire, but I wanted to try this other kit, which is very high quality and simple enough to use. As far as price goes, this one is about the same as just the intake tool from OTC, so that made it a bargain and worth having. As an FYI, here are the two OTC versions (exhaust on the left, and intake on right):

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When the step of checking PTV clearances come up, it was also easy to just grab a two-pack of lightweight springs from my local Lowe's for a whopping $4:

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Checking for true TDC was enough enough once the degree wheel was mounted, and I discovered that with the OTC tool holding the crank, that position was off by 2°. On the way shortly, the rest of the process...
 
#63 ·
That is good to know. I'd imagine that 90 ft/lbs would be the upper limit of what most would consider the "safe" number, but 85 would also be fine to keep it on the conservative side.
 
#64 ·
One of the sad things about a mod motor is the "work of art" pieces you mention are hidden within the motor and can't be seen in plain sight. But its a comforting feeling knowing they are in there doing their job. As I said before, great thread.
 
#65 ·
Many thanks, and I'll be glad to keep this going until the project is wrapped up.

These 4.6 engines really are phenomenal, so as long as the good stuff is is working as expected, they can really be enjoyed!
 
#66 ·
Went to Gibtec today and talked to Nick... (only about 30 minutes from my house). Got my pistons ordered for a 3v aluminator build.

You have to see Gibtec's shop... Billet stuff everywhere and they can build any piston you can think of. Why didn't I know about this before now. Thanks Ed for working on this.

By the way... Gibtec is scanning my 3v heads to get the combustion chamber shape and valve positions. Plus they have one of my 3v pistons for design work so they will have a 3-vlave option as regular design in the future.
 
#67 · (Edited)
Gibtec has been sort of a top secret billet piston shop that the NHRA Pro racers have kept to themselves, Mike. The work they do is first class and the price points they hit for our stuff makes you scratch your head wondering how they can do this.

As you already know from talking with Nick at Gibtec, he is very approachable, easy to talk to and equally easy to work with. Nick has put a special effort into the design of these pistons for our engines. When you see the pistons all the words leading up to that point will be forgotten. The workmanship is impeccable and the finished product looks too good to put into an engine and hide from view.

I am glad you had the opportunity to meet the guys over at Gibtec. It is always good to be able to associate a name and face. It is even better if you can see the manufacturing facility and their capabilities. This kind of stuff is genuinely hard to communicate verbally but what you can see with your eyes and without using any words when you go to their shop tells the whole story.

What I can say is if anyone who is reading this thread has not ordered pistons for their build yet and is on the fence about these particular pieces, I seriously doubt that you can find anything that even comes close, at any price — they are just that good.


Ed
 
#69 · (Edited)
Gibtec has been sort of a top secret billet piston shop that the NHRA Pro racers have kept to themselves, Mike. The work they do is first class and the price points they hit for our stuff makes you scratch your head wondering how they can do this.

As you already know from talking with Nick at Gibtec, he is very approachable, easy to talk to and equally easy to work with. Nick has put a special effort into the design of these pistons for our engines. When you see the pistons all the words leading up to that point will be forgotten. The workmanship is impeccable and the finished product looks too good to put into an engine and hide from view.

I am glad you had the opportunity to meet the guys over at Gibtec. It is always good to be able to associate a name and face. It is even better if you can see the manufacturing facility and their capabilities. This kind of stuff is genuinely hard to communicate verbally but what you can see with your eyes and without using any words when you go to their shop tells the whole story.

What I can say is if anyone who is reading this thread has not ordered pistons for their build yet and is on the fence about these particular pieces, I seriously doubt that you can find anything that even comes close, at any price - they are just that good.

Ed
x1000, especially the last sentence!

Looking forward to visiting Gibtec the next time I have an overnight in Denver. Hopefully I can snap a couple pics as well.

Wow, very nice write up and lots of good info.
Many thanks! Should hopefully get moving on degreeing the cams soon, then it's time to get it all buttoned up and ready for the transplant.
 
#71 ·
They can Mike. There are two ways to approach the process.

Te first way is to lock out the phasers and put the cams where you want them, favoring bottom end, mid range or top end performance. This tends to discount the additional power you can realize from the VCT depending on cam sizing. The second way is to allow the VCT to continue to function and skew the VCT "window" to favor bottom end, midrange or top end.

With a turbo or a centri supercharged car you might be tempted to give bottom end a slight emphasis. With a belt driven PD blower you might be tempted to emphasize the midrange power or top end power because you are already marginal traction-wise in first gear.

FWIW a 21 tooth crank sprocket or a 42 tooth cam sprocket plays out degree-wise as follows. For the 21 tooth crank sprocket 1/21 of 360˚ works out to be just over 17 crank degrees per tooth. The exact number is 17.143 crank degrees. A 42 tooth top pulley works out to be 8.571 camshaft degrees per tooth. But, since one cam degree equals two crank degrees we need to multiply the cam degrees by 2 to convert to crank degrees. The means one cam sprocket tooth or 8.571 cam degrees is equal to 17.142 crank degrees. The difference in the third decimal place is the effect of rounding error.

Ed
 
#73 ·
Looking good man, it wasn't too long ago I was in a similar boat. Ed walked me through the degree'ing process. I also used a aluminator block but i did not do a rebuild. I wish I would have but that will come later.

How did you like the valve spring tool?
 
#74 ·
Thanks. The Aluminator block really is fantastic, and a step up from the Teksid even, despite what forum lore states. It should be a great running engine with the Gibtec pistons, '98 cams, ported heads, and all the gee-wiz stuff. Hopefully I'll confer with Ed soon to dial the cams in, and then it's just a matter of out with the "old" and in with the new.

As for the tool, it seems to be easy to use from what I've tried. You just have to swap the tips around when going from intake to exhaust, but that's not a big deal. With the intake you also have to set the tip left or right depending on which side of the spark plug hole you'll be on, but that is the same M.O. with the OTC version (the tip is removable there as well). In this case, it's nice to have the tool all as one, and since it's really well built, it was a worthwhile investment for sure.
 
#76 ·
Don't bet against yourself POPPAJ! There are any number of guys on this site that I goaded into doing this type of build for their own ride and it was an unqualified success. Do not sell yourself short! This stuff is not rocket science. It is patience, diligence and attention to detail - but not much more. You can definitely do it, BTW there are engine shops that give the same attention to detail but not surprisingly, you have to pay for the time to do this type of work. One of the best I have seen is L&M Engines (<=clickable) who will do the whole job for you soup to nuts.

Ed
 
#80 ·
When you are ready to go just give a call Lewis.

Thanks for the confidence Ed, you're one in a million. As far as selling myself short, I'm only 5'2".
So is a 6th degree Tae Kwon Do master I know. Saw him drop a couple of 250# guys in sparring... Do It! ;-)
I am not so sure about the one in a million stuff but one of the things we try to do on this site is share knowledge and experience so each of us doesn't have to rediscover what others have already learned. These engines while extraordinary in the performance department are also among the more expensive engines someone can choose to build. The ability to share what really does work and what does not, along with where to get the right stuff the first time can help to manage those costs to a lower level than otherwise might be possible.

mvk13 has an excellent one liner about the Tae Kwon Do master. It is particularly apropos when we start to work with these engines.

BTW both you guys probably have first names. Share them with us and we will use them instead of your screen names - if you wish.

Ed
 
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