Aluminator Gibtec Build - Page 46

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  1. #676

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    Good stuff Joe...as always. Our motors were finished up about the same time with mine running just a little earlier than yours IIRC. I've got about 3100 miles on mine. My oil analysis from Blackstone at the 3000 mile change here a couple months ago looked very similar to yours...combination of the King SI Series bearings plus normal new engine break in. All is well. I REALLY need to remember this thread as I must be the luckiest Cobra owner on the planet: not a single alternator issue to date lol. When mine eventually croaks, I need to remember this

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  3. #677
    Senior Member Array 04DeadShort's Avatar
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    And I must be the unluckiest lol. I've owned 4 Mustangs and have been through at least 15 alternators. I went through 5 on my 89 Coupe.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

  4. #678

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edmisten1 View Post
    Good stuff Joe...as always. Our motors were finished up about the same time with mine running just a little earlier than yours IIRC. I've got about 3100 miles on mine. My oil analysis from Blackstone at the 3000 mile change here a couple months ago looked very similar to yours...combination of the King SI Series bearings plus normal new engine break in. All is well. I REALLY need to remember this thread as I must be the luckiest Cobra owner on the planet: not a single alternator issue to date lol. When mine eventually croaks, I need to remember this
    The King bearings definitely have a role in the nice UOA's. I'm sure glad to have them in mine and am thankful Ed has such good things to say about them. Anyone building one of these engines is wise to seek out King - especially when you can put the one-piece thrust bearing in place. Now if I can just get out for more drives...!

    Quote Originally Posted by 04DeadShort View Post
    And I must be the unluckiest lol. I've owned 4 Mustangs and have been through at least 15 alternators. I went through 5 on my 89 Coupe.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    It seems to be one extreme or the other with these cars, but I've been relatively lucky, even back to my Fox days. Not sure how my custom unit ended up being of the 200A+ variety, but the 6G units do tend to work much better when in the 160A range (for those that don't have the desire to buy a Mechman or Nations version). In any case, the OE 105A output of the 6G is just weak, but it appears there are now options for the much better 3G versions that are 135A. They are a tight fit and the mounting bracket needs a bit of clearancing, but it's another way to go.

    Some details are at the end of my Alternator 101 thread. The guy selling them is coincidentally named Ken - I'll touch base and see if he wants to add more details and maybe some contact info.
    Last edited by jrgoffin; 12-02-2017 at 02:53 PM.

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  6. #679
    Senior Member Array soap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
    On that note, my $0.02 is that the real high output alternators on these cars are just not necessary (135A up to 160/170 is perfect). Pushing them up to over 200 just means more power is required to turn them, and they generate a whole lot more heat. The other 160A (with a 2-1/8" pulley) is functioning beautifully and all is back to normal:
    Good info Joe. I have been very fortunate too to still be on the OEM alternator, however I recently switched to a 200 amp from Justin Wheeler because I now have 75 amps being used up between my fuel pumps and IC pump. So I think your statement of "(135A up to 160/170 is perfect)" really depends on the specific car. For a relatively OEM build I would agree with you.

    --Joe

  7. #680

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    Quote Originally Posted by soap View Post
    Good info Joe. I have been very fortunate too to still be on the OEM alternator, however I recently switched to a 200 amp from Justin Wheeler because I now have 75 amps being used up between my fuel pumps and IC pump. So I think your statement of "(135A up to 160/170 is perfect)" really depends on the specific car. For a relatively OEM build I would agree with you.

    --Joe
    Fuel pumps are probably going to be the biggest draw for sure. For me, I have the BAP, a decent sized Amp/Sub combo in the trunk, gauges, Vampire, laser jammer, radar detector (hard-wired, of course), wideband controller, plus probably a couple other oddities and I'm sure 160A is more than enough. I've actually never inquired as to the draw on the big fuel setups since I didn't go that route, but I was sure glad to just swap the current "high-output" alternator back in to avoid all the drag and heat!

  8. #681

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    Your build is a text book example of how to do the job correctly, Joe. The documentation you provided and the corresponding explanations / instructions are and have been wildly popular as is evidenced by the 124,8xx views your thread has had, making it the fourth most popular thread on the site up to this time.

    For anyone considering a build, Joe's thread in particular and all the other build threads, should be on your list of must read documents. It will save you time, money and show you the correct way to go about the effort you are about to undertake.

    Joe, thanks for taking the time and effort to do the job correctly and also to document it for everyone else. Hard to tell which is more demanding, the work or the documentation but both are genuinely appreciated.

    For anyone who has not yet been there, be sure to take a look at Joe's website Terminator Cobra (=< clickable) It is easily the motherload of SVT Cobra OEM information. The site does not provide for commentary but it is, without a doubt, the definitive knowledge base for everything 03/04 SVT Cobra.


    Ed

  9. #682

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    Thanks again, Ed! Glad to have been able to keep all this going (along with my two sites) and the input from everyone has been appreciated. I'm still amazed how often people write asking for further input or to just say thanks, and I even frequently find myself referring back to the thread when details get fuzzy. In any case, I sure dig how well the engine is running, and I'm real glad I didn't get too carried away with PhotoBucket to document it all! Hopefully I'll get the remaining ten or so posts with the broken image links edited within the next week so it's complete for those that are still checking back.
    Last edited by jrgoffin; 07-27-2017 at 01:08 PM.

  10. #683

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    Giving the thread a bump since I finally had the chance to go through and fix all my broken PhotoBucket links. This was a bit of a pain, but fortunately all the pictures are saved on my hard drive. Just a matter of chasing them all down and organizing the effected posts, but the images are all back. Keep on enjoying!
    Last edited by jrgoffin; 11-07-2017 at 10:12 AM.

  11. #684

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    Thanks for your effort!

  12. #685

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
    Giving the thread a bump since I finally had the chance to go through and fix all my broken PhotoBucket links. This was a bit of a pain, but fortunately all the pictures are saved on my hard drive. Just a matter of chasing them all down and organizing the effected posts, but the images are all back. Keep on enjoying!

    Thanks Joe! Pics really are a thousand words. I know link repair is a real PITA.


    Ed

  13. #686

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    Definitely glad to have that monkey off my back! Fortunately, the majority of the pictures were uploaded directly to the server (hopefully I am not close to any limits that may be imposed on users). Not sure why I decided to mess with PhotoBucket anyway, but they sure hosed a lot of people by blocking the 3rd party hosting.

    In any case, the big posts that needed updating were those covering the head stud re-torque and the Vampire install, so they were well worth getting pictures back in. Besides, John's creation is so good that I'd hate to leave anyone hanging who wanted to see plenty of detail on the process. Now it's time to get back on some updates of my own site...

  14. #687

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    I am in lockstep with you on the Vampire, Joe. There is nothing in the market that even comes close.


    Ed

  15. #688

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    Thanks for re-posting the pics.. Vampire system all the way!!

    ks

  16. #689

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    Quote Originally Posted by KEVINS View Post
    Thanks for re-posting the pics.. Vampire system all the way!!

    ks
    For sure!

    I've enjoyed sharing and documenting all this for everyone's benefit. Also, I've been glad to give props, here and on my website, to all the great components out there for these engines (and the cars themselves). One of course being the Vampire. John really has made a fantastic product that is such a must-have on these blown engines, which just can't be mentioned enough!
    Last edited by jrgoffin; 11-12-2017 at 08:22 PM.

  17. #690

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    Quote Originally Posted by markcass123 View Post
    Joe, I want to say thank you so much for this detailed write up. Really enjoying reading all this invaluable information before i continue building my teksid! I am playing catch up as you can see all the way back at page 4 but while this is fresh on my mind I just want to make a comment about all the discussion about different torque values etc.

    In my experience with structural bolts (a325 / high strength structural bolts in bridges and steel erection from research done by companies like portland bolt) there is a ton of variables when torquing bolts ranging from thread friction, surface friction on the washer or head of bolt, oil existing from manufacturing the fastener, galvanized coatings etc, lube or non lubed and the calibration on your torquing device. Variance exists so much that in some tests with hundreds of bolts they see almost a 10-15% difference in clamping force. To me difference in 5 lb between 85 lb and 90 lb is very difficult to verify if you go from one install to the next I can almost guarantee you a difference of this magnitude would exist from install to install. In the field during bridge and steel erection we use washers called DTI washers that are essentially washers have dimples on the faces. As you tighten the bolt (no torque wrench required) the dimples on them compress and when the dimples are completely compressed this signifies to the installer that the bolt is in the correct elastic range of the bolt so you know the correct tensile force exists in the bolt and clamp force has been achieved. The correct tensile force is what keeps the nut from working its way off (has been proven better then lock washers or lock tight) or from "over-torquing". I just thought this was sort of a useful tidbit of knowledge as it may not necessarily be improper install or anything like that but you are simply subject to this randomness that is associated when working with torque values ! Any comments to disprove me or add are appreciated. Happy to be a new member of this forum as it seems there are some great builds going on !

    Cheers !
    While I was going through the thread updating pictures, correcting some grammar, and just making some other minor corrections, I came across the post above that had been glossed over. It actually goes back to February of '16, so my apologies to new member Mark for not acknowledging his thoughts. Better late than never.

    It's probably true that there is bit of latitude with torque values, but when it comes to these engines, I'm of the mindset that staying with the exact figures set by the people in Dearborn is prudent when it comes to a DIY project like this. With some guys mentioning the 85 & 90 ft/lb head stud numbers as working in different cases, I definitely wanted to stay on the conservative side since there have been too many case where that little extra did cause problems. Hopefully with bridges and such, there is more freedom due to the nature of the beast compared to what is going on between cylinders in these blocks.

    Ed may or may not chip in some more, but hopefully the head stud subject has been covered enough that everyone is satisfied. My apologies again for missing the post the first time around!

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