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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#190 ·
The valve lash was "checked" when the solid adjuster was used for the timing. With the hydraulic lifters, there is no procedure to set them, and since they are new, I'll assume they will pump up just fine and do what they do.

Actually I didn't create the doc Joe, although if I had my head screwed on right I should have. Someone else actually put pen to paper on that one and sadly I don't remember who. I stumbled across it one day and downloaded it to my library. Whoever the original author was he did us all a favor. I am going to modify it to include using the 9 way Cloyes stuff on the exhausts also. If I get off my keyster in the next week or so I'll clean it up and publish it.

Ed
Thanks, Ed. I should have stated "...the document that Ed sent me", but if you want to get put on the hot seat and re-write that, it would be great. The literature from Cloyes leaves a bit to be desired, so it's always good to have first-hand accounts to guide anyone else that is doing the same job!
 
#194 ·
NP! Don't forget to consider the billet gears - they will make the pump essentially indestructible. I've been really promoting Boundary Engineering since the price is fantastic and the gears are works of art.
 
#195 · (Edited)
While I'm taking a slight break from the engine, I wanted to touch upon a couple items that were mentioned previously, but are useful to see with extra pictures.

The first involves the adjustable cams gears to make the degreeing process easier (for the most part!). It should be pretty evident as to how these gears work: rotate them to match the desired cam keyway in order to advance or retard. This sure beats the alternative of filing the keys in order to allow the cam to be turned. I borrowed a picture from another thread here that shows one cam with the older style gears, along with several pieces of key stock that have been ground down to fit. In the picture, the cam is advanced (i.e., turned forward in the direction of rotation):

Vehicle brake Automotive tire Machine tool Bicycle part Gear


With the factory gears, it has to take a whole bunch of trial and error to not only file the key stock, but to add small chunks incrementally to hold it where you want - which is probably a real drag. That is the beauty of the adjustable gears since the guesswork is done for you. The process of removing the chains to change the cam position is still part of it, but you save a heck of a lot of time by not having to grind and test fit key stock.

As an FYI, the original gears which allowed that process, looked like this (the set that came with my '98 cams):

Blue Automotive tire Rim Circle Auto part


Those gears have been updated in recent years so that the key is actually integrated in to them now. This saves the need to fiddle with key stock and makes it easy to install them straight up if you go that route (this version also comes in the FRPP timing kit). I do understand that the older gears had a hair of play in them that would allow real slight adjustments, and even if you grind the integrated keys in these new versions, they can probably still be tweaked. Here's a picture of the new gear (Ford part number F8ZZ-6256-AA):

Handwriting Crankset Rectangle Gear Font


My second addition, which was mentioned back in the beginning of this thread, is the ARP cam bolt/washer combo. Just in case I glossed over this, it was worth reiterating that you only need the one washer per side - on the intake cam. Unlike the factory gears where there is a washer under each bolt head, with the Cloyes primary gear, the "washer" is integral with the hub (on the exhaust cam). I have seen cases where guys add the washers to each bolt, and then realize the passenger side cam cover won't fit.

Many of the pictures here show the gears with the new bolts, but it was worth mentioning again in case anyone has a question about what to purchase if you are using these 12mm bolts. Here are two pictures showing the top view of the cams and gears. On the driver's side, there will still be plenty of space under the cover for the bolt heads to clear:

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Fender


I didn't get the angle quite right on the passenger side, but you can see that the bolt heads take up some space and get real close to the plane inside the cylinder head edge (actually, the intake cam bolt is over it). The cam cover will still fit, but if you weren't thinking and added extra washers, you'd find out that you have a problem:

Automotive tire Automotive engine gasket Engineering Machine Auto part


The Summit Racing custom part numbers for the ARP "Mini Cooper" cam bolts and accompanying washers is back on the first page (Post #10), by the way. You can also buy the bolt under the standard ARP part number, but it is more expensive since it comes with a washer that is not usable here.

Will be back at the wrench turning sometime next week!
 
#196 ·
While I'm taking a slight break from the engine, I wanted to touch upon a couple items that were mentioned previously, but are useful to see with extra pictures.

The first involves the adjustable cams gears to make the degreeing process easier (for the most part!). It should be pretty evident as to how these gears work: rotate them to match the desired cam keyway in order to advance or retard. This sure beats the alternative of filing the keys in order to allow the cam to be turned. I borrowed a picture from another thread here that shows one cam with the older style gears, along with several pieces of key stock that have been ground down to fit. In the picture, the cam is advanced (i.e., turned forward in the direction of rotation):

View attachment 140129

With the factory gears, it has to take a whole bunch of trial and error to not only file the key stock, but to add small chunks incrementally to hold it where you want - which is probably a real drag. That is the beauty of the adjustable gears since the guesswork is done for you. The process of removing the chains to change the cam position is still part of it, but you save a heck of a lot of time by not having to grind and test fit key stock.

As an FYI, the original gears which allowed that process, looked like this (the set that came with my '98 cams):

View attachment 140137
That's my "handywork" lol.

That was when I was using a camset that used a 10mm fastener. I created that puzzle piece for peace of mind because I couldn't torque a 10mm fastener too far and didn't want to lose time.

Since then, I've used a camset with a 12mm fastener and did not use any sort of home-made key/set to fit a puzzle-piece keyway. The ability to torque the 12mm fastener to 150 ft/lbs (and sometimes beyond... to 160) willl lock that gear down and prevent it's movement.

Using a keyless secondary gear makes degreeing the intake came a care-free and easy deal. We lock the exhaust cam down, loosen the bolt for the intake cam gear, rotate the engine to the appropriate location, then torque that intake cam bolt. Super easy.
 
#197 ·
I should have given you credit right off the bat!

I did notice the 10mm bolts and figured the keys had to be serious in order to keep the gears locked. It does seem like a heck of a lot of extra work, so anyone doing this job and wanting to save time and aggravation should grab the Cloyes gears. I also noticed that in the Hyland instructions, he advocates to remove the key stock completely and locking the cams with the snout bolt - not real keen on that, especially with the smaller bolts. Good thing the upgrade to the larger snout bolt is relatively simple, and if the cams come that way, even better.

Thanks for letting me borrow the pic, and here is the original thread for anyone interested:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/239561-Cam-Degreeing-What-s-Close-Enough
 
#199 ·
Ford actually installs the cams late perhaps for emissions, CAFE or other reasons, Jon. The advance just opens the cam at a better time for enhancing low speed and midrange power. This image is from Joe's post #179 and also available in the TToC.

Colorfulness Rectangle Product Orange Font


Actually when the cams open at TDC they are not advanced at all, from where they should be - they are essentially straight up. The red box above is 96/98 cams. As you can see the cams from Ford are retarded and set to open 12˚ ATDC. By advancing them 12˚ they open at TDC and actually amount to, you guessed it, being installed straight up. The impact this has on low speed torque, not surprisingly, requires no instrumentation to detect. Your seat of the pants dyno will instantly pick it up.

The cam above the red box is the OEM Mach I / SVT Cobra cam set. Look at where the intake closes. It is 27˚ ABDC. The 96/98 cams will now close at 24˚ ABDC. The top end charge compared to stock 03/04 cams is indistinguishably different and the bottom end and mid range is substantially improved.

If you do this you need to be sensitive to PTV clearance. If you use Gibtec Pistons they have been more than adequately clearanced for this phasing. If you use something else it is to your advantage to check your PTV.

Ed
 
#202 ·
I've been out of the loop working on another project in my spare time but your progress and documentation is phenomenal Joe. Ed walked me through the cam degreeing procedure making it a breeze despite holding up the process with my blunders.

I will have to add the tools to install the cam followers. I used an old screw driver trick Ed showed me. While it worked, i don't want to do it the same way again.

I will definitely be following this thread when I build my final (fingers crossed on it being the last one!) 4v engine.
 
#208 ·
I think some of what was being explained is that the lash adjusters (lifters in a pushrod engine) were "relaxed" because this is a fresh build. The motor has never been started so there's no residual oil inside the lash adjuster making them fairly easy to compress.

I'm not sure about the chain tensioners being "relaxed" . They fill with oil in the same way. During a fresh build I don't know how one would lock them in an extended position. They are either fully compressed (slack chains) or held with nominal spring pressure until actual oil pressure is applied.

However, I know there are ratcheting chain tensioners available which keep the chains tight in the event of oil pressure loss.. So perhaps Joe was referring to backing off the ratcheting tensioner a "click / notch". But in my opinion this would introduce slop in the degreeing process. I would think one would want taut timing chains.

After the engine has been started... Just one time... the lash adjusters and chain tensioners fill with oil and they are more difficult to compress until all the oil is squeezed out of them.

In the discussion about degreeing the cams this is why I asked about the use of a solid lash adjuster. If one hadn't been used then as the cam rolled on the follower it would have compressed the empty lash adjuster because the valve springs have enough power to keep the valve closed. So one basically compresses the lash adjuster rather than the valve when there is no oil in the lash adjuster during a fresh build.

I hope I answered your question.

Now if someone can just tell me how to keep the timing chains tight and how to keep the cam phasers on a 3-valve engine from rotating during the degreeing process for my own build.
 
#210 · (Edited)
A quick search on Amazon shows the iron's can be had for just a few dollars more than the plastic versions. I have a brand new set of plastics that came in a package deal that had some other stuff in it I needed awhile back. Think I might go ahead and scoop up some iron tensioners. And just to help Joe out, and yournot able to see the pic, here are the part numbers for primary iron tensioners

Right F6AZ-6L266-DA
Left F6AZ-6L266-CA
 
#211 · (Edited)
Some of the pics aren't showing up?? In the spirit of forgetfulness, I meant to convert them to .PNG format, but neglected to do so (apparently they host correctly in that way). Thanks for re-posting the p/n, even though it was supposed to show up above. I'll convert the image and see if that makes a difference. I didn't look up the price for the plastic tensioners, but the iron versions came in around $70 each (Tousley or Tasca prices) but can also be scored under Melling much cheaper.
 
#212 ·
I was speaking about the technical side of it Joe. I have my phone setup not to load large images if not connected to wifi so I can save a little data. I read a lot of these threads while I'm at work on Tapatalk. Some pictures, depending on their resolution, I have to wait till I'm at home on my computer or in a wifi area before I can see them. Has nothing to do with your end. Keep up the good work.
 
#213 · (Edited)
Pics are all visible now Joe. Great documentation and excellent write up and illustrative photography.

For those folks who have the plastic tensioners, I wouldn't take the engine apart to change them unless you operate it like a race engine on a frequent basis. When you do your rebuild I would definitely change to the modified cast iron tensioner Joe has documented — they are just better for your engine.

When you do change to the cast iron tensioner you want to do the mods Joe has documented so well above here. The reason for the ratcheting plunger on the OEM chains was exactly what Joe said. It would maintain a minimum tension on the primary drive chains minimizing primary chain start up slap that you would hear without maintaining a zero slack condition for the primary drive chains.

When you operate the engine like a race engine the primary drive chain can and does stretch from age and use and just like Ford intended, the ratcheting tensioner will pick up the slack maintaining proper chain dynamics in the running engine. The problem comes when you operate the engine like a race engine and shut the engine down. The ratcheting plunger will not retract because the ratchet is holding it out in its extended position. As Joe indicated in his post the earliest reported discovery of the problem was with Hyland and Mihovitz.

When the ratcheting plunger maintains the high tension on the drive chain, to take up the additional stretch at high engine rpm, at idle or when the engine is off you have the potential to pinch the already thin oil film between the cam bearing and the aluminum saddle in the head once the engine is shut down — not to mention unnecessary tension in the primary drive chain. The next time you start the engine, as Joe mentioned, that cam bearing will start dry with a metal to metal scuff. Repeated starts like this will kill the cam, the head and if the primary chain breaks, the valves and possibly the block if you break off a valve.

The carnage is impressive. The plastic tensioners do not allow the abuse of the timing chain like the ratcheting tensioners do. They also reduced the warranty claims Ford experienced. The plastic tensioners limit the amount the tensioning plunger can be retracted into the tensioner housing saving those engines from this sort of unhappy ending. At the same time, the problem with the plastic tensioner is that it is plastic and not as durable as cast iron — hence the love affair guys like us have with the cast iron design.

The mods that Joe has documented here will allow you to use the more durable cast iron units without the undesirable damage to the engine's cams heads and potentially other expensive components (are there any cheap ones?) the unmodified stock cast iron units can precipitate.



Ed
 
#214 ·
You got in before I did Deadshort :) (BTW if you have a first name we'll use it). There is a problem with viewing some jpegs in some browsers. If you guys post pics using the png style, the pics appear to work in/on all browsers.


Ed
 
#220 · (Edited)
Joe and I were talking about the potential for SHM inventory to be low or non existant for this part last evening. In anticipation of a limited inventory I went over to McMaster-Carr and began looking for a suitable tubing size to use in the manufacture of these spacers. I found a 3/4 inch diameter 4130 tube with 0.095" wall that will work very nicely. This is the ordering data from McMaster for a 1 foot length;

Product Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot


This is the correct OD and ID. Use a little Scotch Brite to polish it in the lathe, cut off a piece, chamfer it and you are good to go. Price is manageable also. Shipping is not included.

Ed
 
#222 ·
I don't know but I suspect not, Ken. The length of a piston from the cast iron tensioner is 1.348" with the additional 0.200" the spacer adds the plastic tensioner piston would need to be in the neighborhood of 1.548". I would not be surprised to find the difference in the two tensioners is in the depth of the well the piston rides in. As inexpensive as the fix is I would just make a spacer up and leave it at that. I would not use a plastic tensioner in a new build.

Ed
 
#225 · (Edited)
12/13 Edit (per Post #219): Thanks for adding that info for McMaster-Carr, Ed, but glad to know that Nik will be able to have more of the spacers made now. Everyone should definitely call SHM: the use of this spacer ring will be a heck of a lot easier for most guys that want to skip over all the hassle of fooling with the ratchets.



Only if you are upgrading the plastic PRIMARY tensioners to the iron version. If you have them in iron already, it is just a matter of modifying the ratchet, or using a spacer ring beneath the plunger. Ironically, removal of the ratchet and insertion of the spacer will mimic the plastic tensioner, just in a more solid version now.
 
#228 · (Edited)
Good to hear from you again Daniel. Apologies for mis-accreditation on the Aluminator block failures. :bag:

The Coyote block has been through a number of revisions. I have lost count but want to say four maybe five. One of the revisions was the downgrade from its 12 mm head bolts back to 11mm head bolts. If I recall correctly they experienced block breakage down at the crankcase / cylinder bank juncture similar to the 4.6 block failures you experienced with ARP 2000 studs set to hi torque values. Prior to the down grade back to the 11 mm fastener diameter they increased the amount of aluminum in the block where the failures were occuring but to no avail hence the step back to the 11mm fastener spec. While I haven't checked recently I think they remained at the 11 mm size since. The additional material in the casting from the 12mm experience may give them the strength to survive the 100 ft/lbs torque spec now.

The step up to the 11mm mains from the 10 mm fasteners used in the 4.6 generation of the engine was a welcome upgrade to secure the mains. Sadly the 11mm solution will not cleanly work in the 4.6s because of major / minor diameter conflicts when we go up in fastener size by only 1mm in addition to the differences in fastener lengths.

When you shoot for the new power thresholds on the BOSS block, Daniel, what are you planning to do to help seal up the head gaskets?


Ed
 
#230 ·
The Coyote block has been through a number of revisions. I have lost count but want to say four maybe five. One of the revisions was the downgrade from its 12 mm head bolts back to 11mm head bolts. If I recall correctly they experienced block breakage down at the crankcase / cylinder bank juncture similar to the 4.6 block failures you experienced with ARP 2000 studs set to hi torque values. Prior to the down grade back to the 11 mm fastener diameter they increased the amount of aluminum in the block where the failures were ovvuring but to no avail hence the step back to the 11mm fastener spec. While I haven't checked recently I think they remained at the 11 mm size since. The additional material in the casting from the 12mm experience may give them the strength to survive the 100 ft/lbs torque spec now.

The step up to the 11mm mains from the 10 mm fasteners used in the 4.6 generation of the engine was a welcome upgrade to secure the mains. Sadly the 11mm solution will not cleanly work in the 4.6s because of major / minor diameter conflicts when we go up in fastener size by only 1mm in addition to the differences in fastener lengths.

When you shoot for the new power thresholds on the BOSS block, Daniel, what are you planning to do to help seal up the head gaskets?

Ed
Ed, I wonder if there are similarities in any potential "revisions" to the Aluminator blocks that would have pertained to the head bolt bores? I'd almost like to get my hands on another just to measure and compare with regards to my extra 1/4" that protrude above the nut. Probably trivial, but it's curious anyway.
 
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