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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#231 · (Edited)
Usually the design ECO's find a way to leak out to the public, Joe. Sometimes that leak is intentionally as a controlled leak that addresses a known problem. Other times it is purely accidental as a reporter investigating something else for a story and discovers the change. After the Aluminator's introduction the block itself never encountered any publicly known operational or reliability problems that would have required engineering attention.

The one exception to this was the thrust bearing failures on the crate engines that in the end was not a block problem but a combination of a timing cover out of spec and an assembly whoops at Ford.

I think one of the second shift tool makers just set the CNC up a millimeter or so short of the mark on the head bolt holes and your block likely was one of those produced like that. It certainly is not significant enough to worry about. You still have somewhere approaching five diameters of thread engagement where the usual spec is typically three. You easily have more than enough strength to properly seal up the head block interface.


Ed
 
#232 ·
It's unfortunate about the thrust bearing failures, but I always try to point out that it was an assembly issue and does not detract from the strength of the block. Hopefully that stigma has passed, but there are still plenty of guys out there that are convinced that the only way to go for a build is a Teksid block. Not that they aren't great blocks, but I'm doing my part to spread the Aluminator word. Even with the slight difference in my head bolt bores on this one, I imagine all will be well. It is curious though.
 
#233 · (Edited)
Another update with regards to these primary tensioners since I splurged and decided to snag the last set of spacers that Hyland Motorsports could dig up. I would have been fine with the modified ratchet, but since the rep over there searched and cobbled together a couple of the spacers, I figured I would take them off their hands and re-modify mine.

Off with the timing cover. Here's the first set showing the ratchet partially extended, but still at its minimum distance:

Train Product Automotive tire Bicycle part Plant


Just for comparison, once the spacer ring is inserted under the plunger, here is the minimum it will retract in contrast to when they are compressed as new (the spring is removed from the one on the right to make this easy):

Household hardware Composite material Metal Circle Automotive wheel system


For a peek back at them with the modified ratchet, you can see the roughly the same distance from the tensioner body (although the plungers are removed in this pic from Post #209):



Both are back in now, and with the plungers seated, the chains are quite snug (as expected with all new parts). Even if the oil pressure dropped and the plungers were retracted fully, the spacers will give them adequate extension to hold the chains securely under the guides.

Automotive tire Auto part Rim Automotive wheel system Engineering


Shoe Automotive design Gesture Helmet Glove


The timing cover is back on and I'm about ready to pull the "old" 22,000 mile engine. Once the cam covers come back from being coated, the new engine will be just about ready for the transplant. More good stuff soon.
 
#234 ·
Very nice job illustrating the modified versions Joe. The spacer at 0.200" essentially holds the chain guide in the same position the ratchet would have but more securely.

With a choice between the two methods (grinding ratchet teeth and using the spacer) my personal preference, now that we know spacer dimensions would be to use the spacers.

For those contemplating this mod, you might want to consider upgrading the fasteners to studs to make the assembly process a little easier. Without the ratchet to hold the tensioner's piston in place you must maintain a compressed piston spring and simultaneously place the tensioner in position and bolt it down. Sounds easier than it might be in actual practice. This is one of those situations where a third hand would be a welcome addition to the process. The studs work like about a half a hand, allowing you to slide the tensioner body in place over the studs and free up your hands to tighten down the nuts.

Thanks for taking the time to illustrate this less than familiar process Joe.


Ed
 
#236 · (Edited)
My pleasure! Lots more to go, so keep checking back!

Very nice job illustrating the modified versions Joe. The spacer at 0.200" essentially holds the chain guide in the same position the ratchet would have but more securely.

With a choice between the two methods (grinding ratchet teeth and using the spacer) my personal preference, now that we know spacer dimensions would be to use the spacers.

For those contemplating this mod, you might want to consider upgrading the fasteners to studs to make the assembly process a little easier. Without the ratchet to hold the tensioner's piston in place you must maintain a compressed piston spring and simultaneously place the tensioner in position and bolt it down. Sounds easier than it might be in actual practice. This is one of those situations where a third hand would be a welcome addition to the process. The studs work like about a half a hand, allowing you to slide the tensioner body in place over the studs and free up your hands to tighten down the nuts.

Thanks for taking the time to illustrate this less than familiar process Joe.

Ed
Glad I can keep all the info flowing, Ed. After some thought, I also decided that I liked the idea of having the solid spacer as well - pretty much bullet-proof. Maybe we should bug James to kick these out since I have a feeling SHM has depleted their stock and may not be interested in making more.

I did actually completely forget about using studs, but re-installing them still was a cinch. On the right side, I threaded in the right-hand bolt slightly and rotated the tensioner up until I could line up the other bolt. I didn't have to compress the plunger at all until it was under the chain guide, so there was no worry about launching any parts.

The left side took just a hair more effort, but it still worked out fine. Since I already installed all the followers and had to contend with some pressure on the valvetrain, it took a C-clamp to squeeze the two guides together so there was enough room to slip the tensioner in. It was somewhat the same process: thread one bolt in loosely, then rotate the tensioner in place to insert the other bolt. Had I been thinking about this a few weeks ago, I would have left the followers out, but that was just a minor glitch.

With these spacers, there is no chance the chains are going to get loose. I hope we'll have a good source for them soon (although buying the tube stock won't be that hard) to alleviate the process of grinding on the ratchets since this is really a solid way to go!
 
#238 · (Edited)
I think Ed ordered some tube stock already, so if he reports in that it is an easy way to fabricate these, that could be the way to go. I haven't touched base with James, but I imagine any machine shop could also whip these out, especially since the drawing is available with the exact dimensions. I am glad I got the last set from SHM, but I suppose if the demand goes up, they may crank out some more from their end as well.
 
#239 ·
I'm going to make some up this weekend Joe. It should be pretty easy. The tube stock was 4130 so it will be a little more difficult to cut but not enough to matter. My guess is if you have a lathe available to you this should be a short order job for a weekend. I'll post up my experiences this weekend.

BTW the tubing is available from McMaster and also Aircraft Spruce. Aircraft Spruce is about half the price of McMaster for the same tubing. McMaster was $15 for a one foot length.


Ed
 
#240 ·
I'm going to make some up this weekend Joe. It should be pretty easy. The tube stock was 4130 so it will be a little more difficult to cut but not enough to matter. My guess is if you have a lathe available to you this should be a short order job for a weekend. I'll post up my experiences this weekend.

BTW the tubing is available from McMaster and also Aircraft Spruce. Aircraft Spruce is about half the price of McMaster for the same tubing. McMaster was $15 for a one foot length.

Ed
Definitely looking forward to seeing how they turn out, Ed. I still think pestering James may be worth it, but if your way turns out to be exceptionally simple, then maybe it is something anyone else can tackle on their own. Be sure to post up some pics when you are all done!
 
#243 · (Edited)
A little light progress today before I get ready to drop the transmission and pull the original engine...

I had snagged a spare set of cam covers for dirt cheap and decided to have them coated to match the timing cover (silver). Just picked them up, plugged in all the new grommets (from the FelPro kit) and re-installed the bushings for the breather line and PCV fitting. Also mocked up my FGT COP covers just to see how they'd look against the silver. Not bad:

Musical instrument Electronic instrument Circuit component Audio equipment Musical instrument accessory


Here's a back view with the seals pressed in (also part of the FelPro kit). I also had removed the baffle plates before sending them out to be coated, so they went back in as well. The screws have a 5.5mm head, but fortunately I have an E-8 Torx bit (for the front ABS sensors) that fit them perfectly, so that was a quick job.

Audio equipment Gas Auto part Circuit component Engineering


Unfortunately, I'm still waiting on the bolts for these, but hopefully they'll roll in next week. For now, I mocked them up on the engine just to keep them off my garage floor. The passenger side exhaust manifold is also bolted on. This was a new set I scored from a crate engine a couple of years ago and had JetHot coated. After about 1,000 miles, they still look good as new.

Automotive air manifold Gas Auto part Machine Automotive super charger part


The driver's side exhaust manifold is just hung loosely for now, but after the cam covers go on, I can snug up the dipstick then tighten these up. I'll also have the oil cooler transferred over shortly. My apologies for the glare - my garage door has windows in it, and the sun peeked out from behind the clouds as I snapped this one. Lots of "aluminum" for sure!

Automotive design Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Machine


Quick view of the front with the pulley bridge hung loosely for now. I didn't bother getting it coated since it was perfectly clean. Again, my apologies for the glare (bad cell phone pics!).

Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Not too much longer and it will be time for the transplant!
 
#245 ·
Thanks, Ken - I dig the silver look as well!

I know that Ed mentioned the notion of re-torquing the studs, and what a nightmare it will be. I haven't thought about it much so far, but I'd sure love to think it can be avoided and let it casually slip to the back of my mind. Now that you brought it back up, I'm probably on the hook for sure;)
 
#249 · (Edited)
I know, I know...................no sense in doing it if it's not going to be done right!

Trust me, its a couple of hours plus well spent and no (I told you so's) from a certain old elderly gentleman ......AHemmm, ahemmm.........
Just a little bit of denial on my part, but I know I'd never hear the end of it from that certain gentleman!!

Uh oh. I opened up a can of.....lol
Just a little bit:bigwink:

Still dreading it though - that won't change!

------------------------------------------

A bit more fun this evening: I took the supercharger off as a complete assembly and unhooked just about everything from the block (just a couple odd's and end's left). I'll get around to dropping the transmission next week when I'm back in town and then out this beast comes! MY OTC "lifting eyes" are mounted up as well, so that will make it real easy to get the load leveler attached.

Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood
 
#250 ·
I give a +1 on the heads re-torque. The first 3 time I rebuilt my engine I did not re-torque the heads, and I had problem with the head gaskets. The last time (2 years ago) I did the re-torque, and no problem since then...
 
#251 ·
Yeah, I figure it is going to happen. Just have been trying to keep the thought out of my head since removing the cam covers while the engine is in the car is such a pain in the a$$!! At least if the engine is fired for the first time within the next several weeks, it's not like I'll be driving until spring, so I will have the time to do it. Besides, Ed would never let me hear the end of it if I had any issues later!
 
#252 ·
I agree. I just replaced the cam covers on my wifes 03 with some custom ones. It truly is a time consuming job. Nothing like a pushrod engine for sure. Since we are one the subject (and I brought it up, lol) what is the recommended time period/cycle before the retorque.
 
#253 ·
I did approximately 500 miles and a racing night. Ed always said to let it idle up to temp and do the re-torque.
Yes it's a time consuming, took me one day per side, but in the end, it was much less time consuming than pulling the engine out again.
 
#254 ·
I can't imagine who this old geezer that is being mentioned might be ... :)

For the best (safest) results you want to start your new engine let it idle and have the engine come up to normal operating temperatures. When it does, shut it off and put it away for the night. Next day (or later after it's cooled down) but ideally before you fire it again pull the covers and retorque in torquing sequence order all the head studs loosening them one at a time and taking them back to final torque before going to the next stud. I know this is a real PITA.

If you choose to drive the car before retorqing it is best not to let the engine get into boost. Just do Sunday go to meeting sort of driving until you retorque the heads. The gasket manufacturers don't like to tell you to do this because you'll buy gaskets from the manufacturer that does not tell you to abuse yourself.

The problem is less of an issue on engines with iron blocks and iron heads because iron has a relatively low co-efficient of thermal expansion. Put on a set of aluminum heads and now you have a fair amount of growth attributable to the temperature increase in the head and aluminum' s higher co-efficient of thermal expansion. Go to an aluminum block and aluminum heads and something very special happens.

With an aluminum block and aluminum heads you have the greatest expansion possible, that is attributable to heating aluminum. The head studs however are not aluminum — they are ARP steel and their co-efficient of expansion is relatively low comparatively speaking. When the block and heads grow but the studs don't all the expansion has to be absorbed by the head gaskets through additional compression of the gasket. This additional gasket compression creates a new stack height for the gasket that is less than when you assembled the engine.

If you don't retorque the heads, the now thinner stack height of your head gaskets reduces the clamp loading of the head studs and when you put the engine under load you push out a head gasket — a real PITA!! The retorquing of the gaskets after the first heat cycle properly re-loads the head gasket after that first heat cycle providing the type of and quality of gasket seal you originally tried to create.

A lot of work but if you have aluminum heads or worse heads and block, it is to your advantage. BTW if you have never tried CopperCoat or GaskaCinch they are excellent products, a little messy, but they help with head gasket sealing.
 
#256 ·
Does anybody have the proper torque spec for the M9 main bearing cap side bolts.. I'm using the ARP 156-5002 bolts. The factory spec is 30 ft. lbs. plus 90 degrees for TTY bolts.

When I go by ARP's chart for torque by bolt size it looks like it should be about 45 ft. lbs.... Maybe as high as 50 ft. lbs.
 
#259 ·
As far as the head stud retorque...unless there is a trick I am unaware of, how do you even get the passenger side valve cover off without removing the super charger?? I may live to regret it, but it will be a cold day in hell before I yank the SC to just retorque the head studs. I think with the factory Eaton, you can remove the plenum and get to the valve cover but with the KB 2.2, the plenum removes from the back. Am I to understand you remove the plenum from the rear of a KB in order to gain access to the valve cover and ultimately the head studs...?
 
#260 ·
I don't have a KB Jeff so I can't say with certainty but I do have a Whipple and I can say, with certainty, the plenum has to be removed to get the passenger side valve cover off. While I always recommend the re-torque, and I know its a PITA, in the end it is the car owner's call whether or not they want to go through the pushups.
 
#261 · (Edited)
I don't have a KB Jeff so I can't say with certainty but I do have a Whipple and I can say, with certainty, the plenum has to be removed to get the passenger side valve cover off. While I always recommend the re-torque, and I know its a PITA, in the end it is the car owner's call whether or not they want to go through the pushups.

Ed
Ed, on the Whipple, does the plenun remove from the rear of the blower?
 
#263 ·
Okiedoke....now we are getting somewhere ;) KB is the same way. Yep...I'm prolly gonna be a guinea pig. If I am just being honest, and like I said I may live to regret it, but there is no way I am going to go thru that to re-torque. It would be a logical assumption that from the factory the fasteners were not re-torqued after initial warm up and these were bolts not studs. I sure am going to hope that with the MLS perma torque style gasket and ARP 2000 studs that it seals up and remains so but in the spirit of transparency, does this fall into the same category as the oil scraper..? Sure, use it if you have it; certainly won't hurt anything. But more than likely will never be an issue without it. Or does anyone know of a head gasket failure that can be directly attributed to not re torquing the head studs?
 
#269 · (Edited)
Thanks for posting all that, Ed! Hopefully this easy mod to the tensioners will become more of the rule rather than the exception (the same goes for that arduous re-torque procedure!!!!). It really is a no-brainer, especially now that you showed everyone how straight-forward it is. I'll hopefully get to report in as to the effectiveness real soon.

I also wanted to add a bit more about the pre-engine removal process, in the sense that it's just a matter of either dropping it out the bottom or pulling it from the top. I chose the latter, and so far, have led up to that by getting everything off the block (as shown in the pics from the previous page). Without getting in to detail there, plenty of info exists in the service manual and most is no secret, especially when it comes to draining fluids, removing the blower, getting the cooling components out of the way, etc. I will add that the removal of most was made a heck of a lot easier thanks to the Steeda K-Member I have:

Bicycle part Automotive exterior Rim Bumper Font


Automotive design Engineering Automotive exterior Machine Composite material


Since the engine is coming out the top, I also didn't have to discharge the A/C or power steering and just disconnected the pumps and set them to the side. I had initially dreaded the removal of the pulley cage, but mine came off quite easily, with the aid of this OTC tool locking the flywheel (getting the starter out was a cinch as well with the extra room):

Wood Auto part Machine Metal Nut


On an specialty tool note, I had also acquired the Rotunda lifting eyes which will make removal of the long block pretty straightforward. Here's a look at them:

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Communication Device


They are also shown on the engine in Post #249 from the previous page (passenger side at back, and driver's side up front). That's where I'm at so far, and with any luck, I'll be on the swap this week once I get back home. Glad everyone had been able to benefit from all the information from everyone that has been contributed to this thread!
 
#278 · (Edited)
I also wanted to add a bit more about the pre-engine removal process, in the sense that it's just a matter of either dropping it out the bottom or pulling it from the top. I chose the latter, and so far, have led up to that by getting everything off the block (as shown in the pics from the previous page).

Since the engine is coming out the top, I also didn't have to discharge the A/C or power steering and just disconnected the pumps and set them to the side.
since this is such an informative thread, do you think you can elaborate a little bit about the choice for the engine removal process? is your hood removed from the car? is that always necessary when pulling the engine out the top? seems like most guys have the hood removed when coming out the top to have ample room for the hoist.

on the other hand, if dropping it from the bottom obviously you have to be able to get the car high enough, but it does seem like it has its benefits esp since that is how the car was built from the factory. a straight drop with or without the trans and not having to worry about hitting the master cylinder, etc. but if cracking the a/c and p/s systems is always necessary using this method, it might not be worth it however.

personally i am trying to avoid pulling my hood as i am afraid i will permanently mess up the panel alignment.

I had initially dreaded the removal of the pulley cage, but mine came off quite easily, with the aid of this OTC tool locking the flywheel
that particular tool has been one of the most valuable in my toolbox for this car

That's where I'm at so far, and with any luck, I'll be on the swap this week once I get back home. Glad everyone had been able to benefit from all the information from everyone that has been contributed to this thread!
joe thanks again, as this has got to be one of the best threads on the internet for terminator owners who want to work on their own cars.
 
#272 · (Edited)
Since they are Rotunda "specialty tools", big dollars are automatically part of it. I think the last time I saw them for sale, the set was over $450. I got lucky and scored these used for about $150 and couldn't pass up the deal.

These guys used to sell them, but they are not in stock at the moment and who knows if and when they'll be back:

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt...303-d074_ford_engine_lifting_bracket_set.html

Here's also an article from a while back about an Aluminator engine transplant at Rehagen Racing, and even these guys are using the lifting eyes.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...ing-performance-parts-aluminator-engine-swap/

A pic from that article showing one (although an earlier version), and also listing the Ford part numbers. I suppose it is also possible for a dealer to get them, but I'd still hate to see the price. Maybe Tousley or Tasca would have more info.

Hood Engineering Motor vehicle Automotive tire Auto part
 
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