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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

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Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



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I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#276 ·
It is hard to appreciate the growth,Russ when we don't have an opportunity to compare any before and after scenarios. Here is a comparison that found me (I didn't expect it) years ago. I have another engine that is not Ford but is all aluminum and uses a solid cast aluminum block (no water jackets) and billet aluminum heads. When we lash the engine it is nice to be able to set the lash cold.

The lash for the cam at running temperatures should be 0.025" on the intake and 0.028" on the exhaust. To get those clearances when the engine is lashed cold I have to set the cold lash at 0.004" on the intake and 0.006" on the exhaust to compensate for aluminum expansion! The first time you see the amount of expansion one of these engines has, you have difficulty believing your eyes.

The Modmotor will probably expand similarly, possibly a little less because it is lighter. Even at a little less the additional squeeze on the head gaskets is considerable and warrants re-torquing, almost irrespective of the gasket.


Ed
 
#284 · (Edited)
Hope everyone had a nice Christmas. Was home tinkering, dropped the transmission, and just about to yank the original engine. Decided to take a break until next week (especially since I'm still waiting on the valve cover bolts!), but the new engine is essentially done.

Figured it was also a good time to get the Oil cooler transferred over, starting with the base. The o-ring on the top is part of the Fel-Pro CS-97904 gasket kit, so I popped the new one on and made sure to wipe some coolant on it before mounting the cooler.

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Here's the cooler body. There is also a new o-ring that sits on the back face that comes with the Fel-Pro kit. The mounting shaft has a unique o-ring, and fortunately the original one was perfect since Fel-Pro didn't come through there. The mounting shaft is removed and installed with a 1/2" or 12mm hex bit, so be sure to pick one up before you get to this point (the one I have is 1/2", and it worked perfectly). Also, the torque spec for the shaft is about 50 ft lbs (per the service manual), whereas the original torque from Romeo was a hair less at approximately 45. I went with 50. Just an FYI!

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Intake gaskets, coolant tube, and crossover installed before dropping the supercharger on as an assembly:

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With an aluminum block, you also have to remove the original PCV fitting from under the intake since it is too tall (the aluminum block has a shallower valley). Not a problem though - just snagged a 3/8 MIP brass fitting and a matching barb for the 3/8" ID hose that attaches to it. This fitting was pretty short, but you can also use an adapter that is 3/8 MIP and 3/8 FIP with a matching 3/8 MIP barb that will be a bit taller. Here's the new fitting compared to the original (I use Ultra-Copper RTV on the threads as well, but snapped this picture before that point):

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Not a great shot, but there is plenty of room under the intake still:

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The T-56 is out, thanks to a Harbor Freight transmission jack (also worked great on the IRS). Pretty straightforward here except the one bolt on the upper right side is a pain! If you lower the tail about an inch, this one can be accessed with about 3' of extensions (I also left the bolt in the vent tube bracket so it will be easier to install). You can also see a tail-shaft plug that I scored from Advance Auto for less than $10. I did get some fluid dribbling out, but with the plug and a bag over it, I won't have a mess on my hands.

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Off came the bell housing next. The original clutch is staying on the long block, and since it only has about 22,000 miles, it should be good for more use (a friend that is local will be scoring the engine). They don't always look pretty, but they work. Will have a Centerforce Dual-Friction going on the new engine.

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The ported Eaton is back on (minus the plenum and TB for now). I have a 2.93" Lightning pulley, and also upgraded to FRPP 60# injectors. Once the valve cover bolts are in and I can snug them down, I'll swap over the wiring harness and drop it in as an almost-complete engine. This was also a good time to bolt the upper alternator bracket on, so it is seen in the picture as well.

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Back at it next week!
 
#285 ·
Hello everyone and Happy holidays. I have been following this thread from the beginning, such a great source of information. I was curious if any has experimented with running Hot water through the engine, or getting the engine to operating temp by means other than combustion to simulate the first start up heat cycle? If something like that would work on the engine stand it would make the cylinder head re-torque process a little less painful. Thoughts?

Thanks -Jordan-
 
#286 · (Edited)
That should work like a champ Jordan!

All you need is a five to ten gallon source of ~230˚ to ~240˚ degree coolant, a good pumping system and a suitable heating device to maintain the coolant temp. After the block and heads come up to coolant temperature and then returns to ambient, you could retorque everything and then shut down your water heating and pumping device.

You might wonder why you need 230˚ plus coolant to heat the block and the answer is you are essentially doing the process backwards. When the engine runs the heat of combustion heats all the engine components and the water takes the heated water out to the radiator to be cooled and then repeat the process. To get water to 195˚ to 200˚ the engine components need to be decidedly warmer. When you run the process backwards so to speak the coolant needs to be the component that tends to be decidedly warmer. It is of course an approximation and the guesses involved could leave you out in the cold looking in, so to speak

To find the actual coolant temperature you will require, it will take some experimenting. After the experiments, assuming you ind the right temperatures, you can retorque the heads as if the engine had been started — but of course after it has cooled to ambient temps. A couple of operational hazards you might want to give consideration to include the danger associated with a heating device that can raise and maintain five or ten gallons of coolant at the required temperatures, the potential for personal injury if the heating fluid experiences a pressure leak due to the required operating pressure which should be at or above the normal pressures a radiator cap is rated at.

All in all a pretty exciting lab experiment. If you feel adventurous you should try out your idea and let us know how it worked out for you.


Ed
 
#287 ·
Sounds good Ed!

I'll be more than happy to experiment and share the results. I'm thinking if everything goes to plan.. I will hopefully be ready around February! So its possible someone else may try it and report back by then.

Also was thinking if a person had a few 03/04 wiring harnesses, it would be neat to try and make say around a 20 ft extension cord. Plug 1 end into your car, and the other onto your engine that is on a break in cart. Use your car and tune to run your engine and make sure everything is cherry before you even install it in your car. However I only have an engine break in cart, no spare wire harness too cut up. Maybe its already been tried and doesn't work.
 
#288 ·
Anybody have any input on using ARP cam tower studs... Seems like a LOT of money for cam tower bolts (about $170 for a 3v motor). I know the general benefits of using studs, but is this just throwing away money? I already have ARP bolts for the cam towers, but I don't know if this is a worthwhile "upgrade"... Given the cost.

Also... I noticed that my instructions that came with my Gibtec Pistons recommend using Total Seal Quick Seat dry film lube on the cylinder walls for ring break in. I've always just used ATF on the walls and a little 30wt. oil on the skirts. Has anybody used the Total Seal Quick Seat?
 
#290 ·
Anybody have any input on using ARP cam tower studs... Seems like a LOT of money for cam tower bolts (about $170 for a 3v motor). I know the general benefits of using studs, but is this just throwing away money? I already have ARP bolts for the cam towers, but I don't know if this is a worthwhile "upgrade"... Given the cost.

Also... I noticed that my instructions that came with my Gibtec Pistons recommend using Total Seal Quick Seat dry film lube on the cylinder walls for ring break in. I've always just used ATF on the walls and a little 30wt. oil on the skirts. Has anybody used the Total Seal Quick Seat?
Me personally, I dont feel they are worth it. Thats cheaper than 4v cam tower bolts but still expensive. I feel some metric 10.9 bolts are sufficient for the cam towers. I've never heard of or seen a cam tower bolt breaking or even stretching but I have seen a cam tower itself break. The bolt was still in tack but the bracing had broke.
 
#289 ·
Jordan that's a good idea, can't believe this never crossed my mind. Any heater, 500-600 watts, 120v and suitable for water will work. Shouldn't take long to heat 10-12 gallons of coolant. Just simply a need a thermostat in series with the heater load to control the temp. Electrical and electronics is my trade. Im gonna try to look into this on my free time.
 
#293 ·
Joe, what is your method of application for the Quick Seat? I've read to wipe the bores with ATF or WD40 and then wipe them dry with a clean towel... Possibly repeating until no residue is visible on a white towel. Then apply the Quick Seat powder to the cylinder walls. Then wipe a drop or two of 30wt oil on the skirts. Lastly, wipe a little ATF on the ring compressor so that the rings are essentially dry but have a little lube to get through the ring compressor smoothly.

Any thoughts?

Also... I went with Ed's suggestion for ring end gap.. .023 for my top ring and .020 for the second ring. (BTW the Summit Racing ring filer worked very well and was reasonably priced) I'm looking for a little reassurance here as this is opposite of almost all the literature on the internet which says the second ring should be gapped slightly wider.

Although I trust Ed.. His advice is swimming upstream from nearly all the manufacturers and I'd like some discussion for myself and others reading this thread.

The instructions for the Gibtec / Total Seal rings indicate the exact same gap for the top and the second ring (.020).

Also, why does Ed recommend a gapless second ring ONLY for a "race" application. Why wouldn't you want as little blow-by as possible for a street car?

One last comment for the build thread about the crank snout stud modification. I found 3/16" W-1 tool steel keyway stock on MSC Industrial Supply for $6.38 for 36" of it! The ARP stud, nut, and washer are all available from Summit Racing for about $30. Lastly, my local crank shop (Mile-High Crankshaft in Denver, CO) said they can do the work in a couple days for about $50.

A question for Ed though... I found another thread where he is discussing the crank modification and he says the damper hub should be honed for a slip fit when doing the stud mod. I am using a ATI Superdamper and I believe it relies on the friction fit for some of its dampening ability. Wouldn't a slip fit reduce the transfer of harmonics to the damper? I'm not real concerned with "serviceability" and being able to pull the damper off by hand, so I'm hesitant to hone my damper for a slip fit.

Thoughts?
 
#294 ·
Joe, what is your method of application for the Quick Seat? I've read to wipe the bores with ATF or WD40 and then wipe them dry with a clean towel... Possibly repeating until no residue is visible on a white towel. Then apply the Quick Seat powder to the cylinder walls. Then wipe a drop or two of 30wt oil on the skirts. Lastly, wipe a little ATF on the ring compressor so that the rings are essentially dry but have a little lube to get through the ring compressor smoothly.

Any thoughts?

Also... I went with Ed's suggestion for ring end gap.. .023 for my top ring and .020 for the second ring. (BTW the Summit Racing ring filer worked very well and was reasonably priced) I'm looking for a little reassurance here as this is opposite of almost all the literature on the internet which says the second ring should be gapped slightly wider.

Although I trust Ed.. His advice is swimming upstream from nearly all the manufacturers and I'd like some discussion for myself and others reading this thread.

The instructions for the Gibtec / Total Seal rings indicate the exact same gap for the top and the second ring (.020).

Also, why does Ed recommend a gapless second ring ONLY for a "race" application. Why wouldn't you want as little blow-by as possible for a street car?

One last comment for the build thread about the crank snout stud modification. I found 3/16" W-1 tool steel keyway stock on MSC Industrial Supply for $6.38 for 36" of it! The ARP stud, nut, and washer are all available from Summit Racing for about $30. Lastly, my local crank shop (Mile-High Crankshaft in Denver, CO) said they can do the work in a couple days for about $50.

A question for Ed though... I found another thread where he is discussing the crank modification and he says the damper hub should be honed for a slip fit when doing the stud mod. I am using a ATI Superdamper and I believe it relies on the friction fit for some of its dampening ability. Wouldn't a slip fit reduce the transfer of harmonics to the damper? I'm not real concerned with "serviceability" and being able to pull the damper off by hand, so I'm hesitant to hone my damper for a slip fit.

Thoughts?
Here's the "instruction sheet" from TS:

Benefits of the QUICK SEAT cylinder lubricant:
1: Quicker ring seating
2: Promotes longer ring life
3: Promotes better leak-downs

Instructions for use of enclosed cylinder lubricant:

After honing and final cleaning of block, cylinders must be thoroughly
cleaned and all honing oils and metal removed from crosshatch. The
best way we have found is to wipe cylinders with a lint free rag using a
lacquer thinner or a brake cleaner. Then the cylinders should be wiped
entirely with a very light penetrating oil (WD-40) and wiped entirely
with clean rag (this will ensure the crosshatch is clean). Apply cylinder
lubricant with finger to the entire cylinder. If the cylinder was clean the
powder will turn the cylinder a greenish tint, and this is the desired
effect. If the powder turns the cylinder a black or silverish color, the
crosshatch was still dirty, clean cylinder and reapply.

A LlTILE BIT GOES A VERY LONG WAY!
CONTACT: 623-587-7400 - TOTAL SEAL PISTON RINGS


As for ring gap, mine were based on the TS instructions, but I don't have the information handy since I am traveling for work. The gaps were 0.024" anyway, but you won't go wrong with Ed's recommendations either.
 
#295 ·
I would also love some advice on degreeing a 3-valve engine. It's the variable cam timing on the cam gears that is throwing me.
Without any oil in them I think they are fully advanced... I don't know how this affects the degreeing process.

Also, without lock-outs in the cam gears how do I keep them from moving during the process? I'm planning on marking the gears inner and outer hubs to be able to keep an eye on them for movement.

And what about chain slack with no oil in the tensioners? I can understand the chains being tight when turning on one direction, but what about the opposite direction?

There is very little information on the internet about degreeing a 3-valve... Please HELP.
 
#296 ·
I would also love some advice on degreeing a 3-valve engine. It's the variable cam timing on the cam gears that is throwing me.
Without any oil in them I think they are fully advanced... I don't know how this affects the degreeing process.

Also, without lock-outs in the cam gears how do I keep them from moving during the process? I'm planning on marking the gears inner and outer hubs to be able to keep an eye on them for movement.

And what about chain slack with no oil in the tensioners? I can understand the chains being tight when turning on one direction, but what about the opposite direction?

There is very little information on the internet about degreeing a 3-valve... Please HELP.
Can't help you there, but this monster 3V Aluminator build thread should be just what you are looking for:

http://www.gtamc.com/showthread.php?116371-Project-3V-quot-Aluminator-quot
 
#298 ·
Does anybody know the preload measurement amount for the lash adjusters... The Sean Hyland book says .040 to .080 but that seems like an awful lot. The book doesn't specify a difference between 2v, 3v and 4v.

I was thinking more along the lines of .010 or .015 preload. I just don't want the oil pressure to lift the valves off their seats (even though I'm running 110 pounds of seat pressure)... But at 6000 RPM with 70-80 psi of oil pressure and 10-15 pounds of boost, floating the valves seems possible with too much pre-load.
 
#302 ·
The diagram dimensions of .45mm to .85mm converts to .018 in. to .033 in.
That is correct. Note that it also specifies the dimensions with "Adjuster fully collapsed", and that it is also a "Quality Audit". Here is the diagram again for anyone that needs it easily and does not want to go back to the original post (on Page #14).

 
#303 · (Edited)
Taking a slight detour today now that I'm home, but will be getting the engine essentially finished up tomorrow by bolting down the valve covers, installing the COP's and COP covers, then installing the wiring harness. Should be just about ready to drop in the engine, so more on that shortly.

In the meantime, decided to have a bit of fun and post some comparison shots of my Gibtec piston next to the OEM "Zollner" piston. I had found some leftover pistons from a blown engine, and got my hands on one - especially since I don't think anyone has ever documented their weight (it will now become a paper weight). It's really just morbid curiosity, but I thought the side-by-side shots were interesting. The OEM piston needed a trip through a bead blaster to clean it up, especially since the details are much more visible now.

Just for the heck of it, here's a picture of a new piston and rod to get started:



First off, the OEM wrist pin is actually pretty solid. It has a 0.200" wall, and weighs in at 133 grams. I don't have the weight of the Gibtec tool steel pins handy, but whenever I get that information, I'll update this. If any of the guys that have purchased pistons from Gibtec have them still in the box and want to snap any pictures or get weights to add, feel free. Here's one of the Ford pins:

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As far as piston weight goes:

OEM - 343 grams
Gibtec - 377 grams (at least in my case).

You can definitely tell the difference in how solid the Gibtec pistons are compared to the factory set when you have them in your hands. The factory piston is dished for an 8.5:1 C/R, and mine are about 9:1 with just a very slight dish. A top angle view of both (note the "valve reliefs" in the OEM piston!):

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Here are the thrust faces of both. The Ford piston had an "anti friction" coating on it that was only slightly worn when I got it, but it came off during the blasting process. You can really see the difference in land thickness, and note the oil feed holes are drilled in the entire circumference of the Gibtec piston whereas there are only four in the OEM piston (two above each thrust face):

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Side view of each. As an FYI, the upper ring land in the Zollner piston is about 0.210", and the second is roughly 0.160". With my Gibtec set, those numbers are 0.280" and 0.180". The OEM rings, by the way, are the standard 1.5, 1.5, and 3.0mm with a ductile iron first, and napier second. If anyone wants any more measurements out of curiosity, I'll be glad to snag them.

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Bottom view, where you can really see the difference in wall thickness. Both also have the "slipper skirt" design. Nice job by the guys at Gibtec for making theirs so much more bullet proof.

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Just for some more useless trivia, the OEM pistons actually originated with Zollner, but the company had been bought by Karl-Schmidt Unisia (part of Germany's Kolbenschmidt Pierburg AG) by that time but were still manufactured down in Ft. Wayne, IN. For even more trivia, Fred Zollner, the company's founder, was also a basketball fan and founded the Ft. Wayne Zollner Pistons back in 1941. As the NBA expanded, the team was moved to SE Michigan in 1957, where they remain today as the Detroit Pistons!
 
#305 · (Edited)
Thanks - and I got a cool paper weight out of it!

The finishing touches went on the engine today after all the cam cover bolts finally arrived. I did also space out and completely forgot to include the grommet stands that are needed when bolting the covers down (they aren't part of the FelPro gasket kit). Fortunately, I pirated them off the outgoing engine, so the new owner will have to score some on his own. I think if you order them from Ford, they also come with the bushing, under p/n XL1Z-6C519-AA. Don't forget these if you are ordering everything new (20 total):

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Each grommet needs one, and they simply pop in before you push the grommet in place (again, I think they come this way from Ford). Not a great picture, but you get the idea:

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All new bolts (18) and studs (2) form Ford. Not cheap, but I wanted to stay OEM. They also put a teflon coating on them for what it's worth.

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Before lining up the covers, an important step is to put two dabs of silicone on the head at the joints where the timing cover bolts up. The new gasket (from FelPro) has a wider flange in each area, but it's a good idea to seal it up just like at the lower joints as well as those behind the timing cover. Here's the passenger side as reference:

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I only popped in a few of the grommets initially since I wanted to eye-ball how well I lined the covers up. Once I snugged a couple of the bolts down, they stayed in place just fine.

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Insert the rest of the grommets and torque the bolts to spec. The two studs are in positions 10 & 17 (the front inside corners) for the harness, but the diagram also shows the "squares" at 9 & 20 which is incorrect. At least the text description at the bottom is right:

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After that, I torqued down all the Denso IT-22 plugs (I use 8 ft/lbs, with anti-seize always), installed the COP's, ran the engine harness and hooked it all up. Here are a few shots of the ready-to-install engine.

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No more Romeo build label either, so I thought this looked neat (I saved the one that was on the engine, plus have two new pates that were given to me by one of the original builders):

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The Torx head COP cover bolts are also matched to the covers from the FGT program - another nice touch. They are still available from Ford as p/n W701621-S437:



Hopefully the original long block will be coming out today or tomorrow. I just ordered the J&S Vampire, so I'll most likely install the knock sensor on the block and feed the wire for it through before I drop the engine in, so more details on that coming up soon.
 
#307 ·
I have a similar HCM that uses the modified factory coolant tubes, but since the EGR stayed, I decided not to use it (the driver's side fitting is too large). The heads are the final revision anyway, and since I'm not planning to beat the hell out of it, I figured I will be fine as-is.
 
#308 · (Edited)
The original engine is out. I took some time yesterday to get the hoist all set up, which also involved dropping the front end off the Race Ramps (with a 10" lift), and setting it down on the Rhino ramps that are 4" shorter. Actually, the passenger side wheel needed to come off as well, and that side was supported with a jack stand so the legs of the hoist had room to slide under the frame. It actually worked out to slide the hoist in from the side, but I also had enough room to swing it to the front of the car. Either way, if the beam was about 3" longer, it would have been perfect, but with a load leveler on the hoist, I was able to slide the engine over a hair to add the extra reach.

The lifting eyes made it easy, although it would have been simple enough to attach chains and small mounting plates to the four holes on the front and rear of the block valley. With the supercharger installed on the new engine already, the lifting eyes will be perfect. Since the clutch was left on and there was some extra weight at the back of the engine, I set a small piece of 2x4 between the heads and the firewall just to keep the block from leaning back and putting more stress on the engine mounts (Energy Suspension poly, so still pretty tough). I didn't remove the hood either - it is standing up vertically thanks to a strap on one of the struts of my garage door opener.

Hood Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive design


Kind of weird seeing this, but it will be well worth it soon enough (didn't have to un-bolt the hyrdo-boost either). After just a bit of clean up and a decision on which way I'll route the knock sensor wire for the Vampire, the new engine will be hopefully making a one-way trip in. Since I don't have any work to do on the transmission, it stayed put on its jack. You can also see the A/C compressor and P/S pump sitting on the sway bar: no need to disconnect those lines. Also visible is the MM four-point brace, which happens to fit perfectly on the Steeda K-member.

Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design


This will be on the way to the new owner soon. With only 22,000 miles, there should be a ton of life left in it. The garage is a bit of a mess at the moment, but not too much longer and there will be plenty of room again.

Motor vehicle Chair Engineering Gas Electronic engineering


More to come as '16 gets underway!
 
#311 ·
(Energy Suspension poly, so still pretty tough).
Not to sidetrack, but I'm surprised you have polyurethane engine mounts. When I switched to my Maximum Motorsports K-member, I installed poly engine mounts (albeit Prothane), but the NVH penalty was so bad, I pulled the K-member and reinstalled the OEM mounts. The vibration with the poly engine mounts was so bad, the interior would "buzz." Did you notice any NVH issues with your Prothane mounts?
 
#309 ·
Who did the port on the Eaton Joe? I would guess you but I've missed it and my computer is to slow to go through 21 pages.
 
#310 · (Edited)
It's nothing fancy Brian, but our pal Gerry was trying his hand at this a couple years back with your specs. I imagine it's still a hair shy of making the same power as a CNC port, but it still made a huge difference over stock. Here's a comparison of one of yours and his home job:



Almost forgot this one as well:

 
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