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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



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Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


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I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#316 ·
I was hoping you'd beat me to it, Jon!!!

Should be pretty straightforward, but I'll just be tapping in to the PCM harness behind the kick panel, and it's always a pain digging in there. Fortunately, the aluminum blocks have some perfect spots for the knock sensor, and I had John @ J&S add a few feet to that harness so I won't have any issue running under the passenger seat. Will hopefully get on it real soon, and pictures will be on order!
 
#319 · (Edited)
For some reason, reaching for a torx head driver to remove the COP cover, ... while I do have them, keeping them handy as typical armamentarium as part of routine maintenance for checking/changing plugs, seems nauseating lol.
 
#320 ·
Not a big deal - getting the Torx bit is no more laborious than grabbing the metric socket from the same drawer in my tool box. I just happen to like the look of these over the factory "gold" bolts.
 
#321 · (Edited)
Dropped the engine in today finally, what a chore. I ended up making this a solo project which added some time, but considering I pulled the original engine with no help, I figured it would work out fine here. Having the load leveler helped immensely since the engine needed to shift at several points as it was getting close, and the ability to slide it made this tolerable without an extra set of hands around.

Being cautious - a lot of painters tape and some cardboard strategically placed to keep any parts of this beauty from getting scratched. With the lifting eyes bolted on, the COP covers had to be removed, but that is not a big deal.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Automotive exterior


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From this point on, it was a matter of lowering it in real small increments then adjusting slightly to line things up or make sure nothing was going to get damaged. The sheet of cardboard between the exhaust manifold and strut tower also helped to keep anything from banging around, and having the "Fender Gripper" front end cover really was nice. I also wrapped some painters tape on the engine mount studs to keep them from gouging in to anything, but the cardboard sheet still took a beating. Since the beam of the cherry picker was a few inches shorter than ideal, it took some real effort to swing the engine over towards the drivers side while being able to make real small adjustments on the valve as it lowered.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Electronic engineering


Almost...

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In, and engine mount studs snugged down to keep everything in place. With no clutch and flywheel on the back, it balances perfectly, but as the weight goes on, I imagine it will shift back a bit. With this block, the Steeda K-member, and the H.O. Fibertrends/FRPP Cobra R hood, that is about 105# of weight off the nose.

Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Car Automotive design


I have to also mention that getting the lifting eye out of the passenger head was a real pain! I knew it would be a squeeze with the manifold in place, but since I only snugged the bolts down, a stubby ratchet did the trick (I wanted to be precise on the torque of the manifold studs, and it was easier with the engine on the stand). This bracket should have been angled to stand a bit more vertical, since it really presses against the A/C line adjacent to it. Once the bolts came out, I had to actually rock the engine just a hair forward to slide the bracket back then lift it out of the way. The driver's side, however, is not a problem. Just an FYI for anyone that may get their hands on these.

In the next week or so, I'll start getting the front put back together and then will move on to the clutch (Centerforce Dual Friction) and re-installation of the transmission. As usual, more to come!
 
#325 · (Edited)
A little more progress today: got the new clutch installed, along with the bell housing. I almost could have hoisted the transmission back in, but I needed to get some non-car things done, so I knocked off for the afternoon.

My clutch of choice here is a Centerforce Dual-Friction, and I think it will be a good one. I've driven a couple Mustangs in the past that had these and I liked them, plus I got a fantastic deal on everything, so that made it worthwhile (just over $400 for the pressure plate, clutch disc, TOB, PB, bolts, and a "new" flywheel from McLeod!). For anyone curious about the DF clutches, there is a blurb on my own site here:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/drivetrain.htm#Centerforce_clutch

Just for the heck of it, I'll also include a nice "brochure" from Centerforce that lays out the finer points of this clutch line:



I should also mention that the small stuff here was all acquired from Ford and Ford Racing. I picked up all new flywheel bolts from Steve @ Tasca (they came with the rear main seal, crank slinger, and a couple other small items), and the rest was FRPP stuff that I acquired little by little.

Throwout bearing: M-7548-A
Pilot bearing: M-7600-B
Pressure plate bolt kit: M-6397-A46

Here's that pile, although it turns out all the pins weren't necessary since McLeod had already installed them (there are three):

Automotive tire Natural environment Road surface Asphalt Gas


Anyway, here's the view to get started - the nice clean backside of this aluminum block with the new rear main seal retainer and seal already installed. You can also see the back of the rubber inspection cover - another item that was in the mix from Tasca:

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Automotive wheel system Gas


The pilot bearing was tapped in easily enough with a dead-blow hammer, then I also tapped the slinger on the end of the crank (there is a discussion about the seal and slinger starting back on Page #7). Unlike the rear main seal that is pressed in to the plate and does not turn, the slinger sits on the end of the crank flange and rotates in the seal housing.

Along with those two items, I also hung the inspection plate just to get it out of the way. I left the original plate on my outgoing engine, and picked up a new one through Ford racing for about $35 (M-7007-A). Since they are just bare steel and will rust, I had it powder coated silver along with the timing cover and cam covers.

Automotive tire White Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Alloy wheel


Next up, the flywheel. This was actually a lightly used one, but it was sent directly to McLeod by the person I bought it from. For $125, they put in a new steel insert, and for the $225 I have in it, it is still cheaper than buying one new. Once it is lined up, I started finger tightening the bolts down just so I'd be sure it wouldn't drop on my head.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Alloy wheel Rim


The bell housing is also shown in the picture above since I loosely mounted it so I could make use of the OTC flywheel holding tool. Here's the tool in place again (also previously mentioned back on Page 18). It definitely has come in handy.

Automotive tire Wheel Automotive design Motor vehicle Hood


From here, I torqued all the bolts down in a criss-cross pattern (using blue Loctite as well), and marked them so I was sure they were all tight. In this view, you can also just see the OTC tool holding the flywheel. No need to jam a long screwdriver against the teeth!

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake


Once the bolts were tight, I popped the bell housing and tool back off and went to work on the rest. The DF clutch disc is a nice piece, and just to make sure it goes on correctly, they put a label on it telling you which side faces the flywheel! The second picture also shows it lined up with the alignment tool before I grabbed the pressure plate.

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Simple enough, and next comes the pressure plate, which will sit on the three alignment dowels. I also made sure that the flywheel and back surface of the pressure plate got a good wipe down with brake cleaner before getting to this point.

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It was easier to torque the bolts down here by just holding the pressure plate with my hands, so after that was done, the bell housing went back on for the last time. There is also a bracket at the top that holds the end of the transmission harness and the front right O2 sensor plug, so don't forget that!

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Tire Automotive design


From here, I bolted the OTC tool back in, and went to work getting the harmonic balancer installed along with the inner belt and pulley cage. Gotta' run for now, but more on that stuff shortly!
 
#329 ·
My clutch of choice here is a Centerforce Dual-Friction, and I think it will be a good one. I've driven a couple Mustangs in the past that had these and I liked them, plus I got a fantastic deal on everything, so that made it worthwhile (just over $400 for the pressure plate, clutch disc, TOB, PB, bolts, and a "new" flywheel from McLeod!).
On the Centerforce website, it says all over the place "Do Not Re-use O.E. Alum. Flywheel." Soooo, it sure looks like you can use this clutch with an OEM flywheel. I tend to think it might have something to do with the counterbore in the flywheel being larger...but I dunno. What gives?
 
#328 · (Edited)
No worries, Ken. One of the mod's over there removed the trouble and cleaned it up. With the other site finally finished, you'll know where to find me!

Very nice job Joe and as usual excellently illustrated and documented.

Ed
Thanks, Ed. It's definitely winding up quicker than I thought, and hopefully I'll be ready to turn the key real soon. What am I going to write about when this is all done?!?!
 
#332 ·
What TOB are you planning on using? The centerforce one started squeaking within a month back when I was still running the t56.
 
#337 ·
Well, I haven't put a number to it, but with the OE TOB and a firewall adjuster, it was just "slightly" riding on the pressure plate. That seemed to work fine, and the original bearing still appears to be in somewhat decent shape. I'll be experimenting a bit with this once all four tires are back on the ground!
 
#340 · (Edited)
Just a couple extra pictures I snapped after finishing with the clutch: crank damper and pulley cage.

With the flywheel holding tool in place, it was perfect to get these installed. I had picked up a spare damper from an engine with less miles than my original, which made it nice to leave my first one in place. Installation was easy, but since I neglected to do the stud mod on the crank, I needed to rent the OEM 27144 install tool from AutoZone. You do not want to pound the damper on, nor do you want to use the stock bolt to draw it down! One way could lead to thrust bearing damage, the other could destroy the threads in the crank.

In any case, here's the tool (a threaded shaft with adapter(s), along with a large nut and bearing to draw the damper down):

Automotive lighting Tool Automotive wheel system Bumper Auto part


Tightening sequence if you've stayed with the OE bolt, as an FYI:

Font Parallel Motor vehicle Auto part Engineering


The "new" pulley installed along with the new inner belt. With the ARP bolt and washer, it went on at 125 ft/lbs (like the cams) with their lube on the thread and under the bolt head. Don't forget to add some RTV in the keyway to seal it as the pulley moves back. I used the same black RTV as I have on the other required areas of the engine.

Automotive design Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Auto part


I did also pick up new belts and went with the Gatorback line, which is now made by Continental as their "Elite". I dig their tires, so I figured these belts will be a great addition as well. The inner belt is six-rib, 96". I goofed on the outer belt and should have grabbed one in 75" or maybe 74.5" (it is eight-rib), but I inadvertently got one that is 75.5". I'll check to see if it fits, but most likely it will have to be exchanged - not a big deal. They are definitely nice belts.

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Inner belt routing diagram for good reference:

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After that, I mounted the pulley bridge back on, then installed the cage. As a refresher, it takes a 14mm hex bit, and has a left-hand thread (counter-clockwise to tighten!). Also, do yourself a favor and put some anti-seize on the threads in case you have to remove it again. Despite how much of a pain it can be to break free (mine was easy, fortunately), it only goes on with 74 ft/lbs of torque. Once this was done, I pulled out the flywheel tool and re-installed the starter. Also shown are the idler pulleys that I believe are from VMP, which were acquired from Jon Pavia last year (they look like those made by Billet Pro Shop). The two on the right (upper and lower) are 100mm, and the center is a 90mm. I prefer the clean look of these over the other ones out there.

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Install diagram for reference:

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Pulley bridge diagram in case you forget where the bolts and studs go (the one upper bolt won't be used since I have the Idlers & tensioner):

Font Engineering Auto part Parallel Circle


This was about where I left off, and at this point, just need to re-install the alternator, torque down the rest of the bolts & studs, attach the brackets that hold the wiring harness, then add the belt. Here is the secondary belt drive diagram:

White Organism Font Pattern Art


Once the transmission is up, the coolant hoses and tanks will go back on, then I'll finish up the small stuff on top of the engine. In no time at all, I'll be adding the oil, priming the pump, and getting ready to turn the key! More later in the week.
 
#788 ·
Just a couple extra pictures I snapped after finishing with the clutch: crank damper and pulley cage.

With the flywheel holding tool in place, it was perfect to get these installed. I had picked up a spare damper from an engine with less miles than my original, which made it nice to leave my first one in place. Installation was easy, but since I neglected to do the stud mod on the crank, I needed to rent the OEM 27144 install tool from AutoZone. You do not want to pound the damper on, nor do you want to use the stock bolt to draw it down! One way could lead to thrust bearing damage, the other could destroy the threads in the crank.

In any case, here's the tool (a threaded shaft with adapter(s), along with a large nut and bearing to draw the damper down):

View attachment 142665

Tightening sequence if you've stayed with the OE bolt, as an FYI:

View attachment 167178

The "new" pulley installed along with the new inner belt. With the ARP bolt and washer, it went on at 125 ft/lbs (like the cams) with their lube on the thread and under the bolt head. Don't forget to add some RTV in the keyway to seal it as the pulley moves back. I used the same black RTV as I have on the other required areas of the engine.

View attachment 142673

I did also pick up new belts and went with the Gatorback line, which is now made by Continental as their "Elite". I dig their tires, so I figured these belts will be a great addition as well. The inner belt is six-rib, 96". I goofed on the outer belt and should have grabbed one in 75" or maybe 74.5" (it is eight-rib), but I inadvertently got one that is 75.5". I'll check to see if it fits, but most likely it will have to be exchanged - not a big deal. They are definitely nice belts.

View attachment 142681

Inner belt routing diagram for good reference:

View attachment 142689

After that, I mounted the pulley bridge back on, then installed the cage. As a refresher, it takes a 14mm hex bit, and has a left-hand thread (counter-clockwise to tighten!). Also, do yourself a favor and put some anti-seize on the threads in case you have to remove it again. Despite how much of a pain it can be to break free (mine was easy, fortunately), it only goes on with 74 ft/lbs of torque. Once this was done, I pulled out the flywheel tool and re-installed the starter. Also shown are the idler pulleys that I believe are from VMP, which were acquired from Jon Pavia last year (they look like those made by Billet Pro Shop). The two on the right (upper and lower) are 100mm, and the center is a 90mm. I prefer the clean look of these over the other ones out there.

View attachment 142697

Install diagram for reference:

View attachment 142705

Pulley bridge diagram in case you forget where the bolts and studs go (the one upper bolt won't be used since I have the Idlers & tensioner):

View attachment 142721

This was about where I left off, and at this point, just need to re-install the alternator, torque down the rest of the bolts & studs, attach the brackets that hold the wiring harness, then add the belt. Here is the secondary belt drive diagram:

View attachment 142713

Once the transmission is up, the coolant hoses and tanks will go back on, then I'll finish up the small stuff on top of the engine. In no time at all, I'll be adding the oil, priming the pump, and getting ready to turn the key! More later in the week.
Hi Jeff, where did you find the torque spec for the ARP crank bolt as 125? I've seen a wide range of figures on my search for the correct spec-90/100/112/125.
 
#343 · (Edited)
Should be back at it this weekend getting everything buttoned up.

In the meantime, the Vampire arrived today (the control unit is removed from the nice velvet bag just for the picture!):

Jewel case Gadget Data storage device Font Tread


Ed would have never let me hear the end of it if I didn't splurge for this, but it is something that is beneficial for anyone with a modified Terminator. With the Aluminator block, there is a perfect spot for the knock sensor on the driver's side, right behind the engine mount, so even better. I'll definitely add more to this when I tackle the wiring project, but I suspect it will be straightforward.

Great service also from John Pizzuto of J&S: he shipped it Priority Two-Day and did a real nice job of packaging it. I went with the "basic" kit and just added the 10mm knock sensor (just over $600 shipped), but I may dig it so much that the gauge could be on order soon. I know John is a vendor here as well, but hopefully I'll add more details on the kit after it is out of the box! Also, there is an Install thread in the TToC, so I'll checking that out - again - before I dive in.
 
#344 ·
...

Ed would have never let me hear the end of it if I didn't splurge for this, but it is something that is beneficial for anyone with a modified Terminator.
Truer words ...

Great service also from John Pizzuto of J&S: he shipped it Priority Two-Day and did a great job of packaging it. I went with the "basic" kit and just added the 10mm knock sensor (just over $600 shipped), but I may dig it so much that the gauge could be on order soon. I know John is a vendor here as well, but hopefully I'll add more details on the kit soon! Also, there is an Install thread in the TToC, so I'll checking that out - again - before I dive in.
John is great to work with and his Safeguard product (aka Vampire) is the absolute best knock detection and control unit commercially available today. Most importantly it is way less expensive that repairing a hurt engine.

Ed
 
#346 ·
Very true there, Ken. I just always have Terminator on the brain, so I'm a little biased! It appears that there are actually a lot of guys using these for all kinds of applications, so John has really built up a following due to it being such an excellent product.
 
#353 · (Edited)
No real reason, just an oversight on my part. Got caught up in all the other details, and just forgot about this. Probably not a big deal, though, since I'm staying with the stock crank cage.

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Finished up this weekend and the engine is all done. Had to stop just shy of firing it up since I completely forgot that I needed to pick up a new drain plug for the radiator (Dorman 61138), so I did not add the coolant or oil yet. I have several gallons of the Motorcraft VC-7 (gold) to mix with distilled water, and as for oil, I'll be using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 for the "break-in" (the Shell oil was suggested by Ed since it has higher levels of Zn & Ph - what I definitely wanted). Even better, I needed eight quarts, and Wal-Mart sells it in gallon jugs for about $16 - grabbed two since I'll be running eight quarts with the Canton pan. Just in case anyone wants to see what the jug looks like:

Product Tire Automotive tire Liquid Fluid


Anyway, the weekend started with hoisting the T-56 back in. It's definitely easier removing than installing, but I made it work. Even with only 22,000 miles on the original engine, the Ford TOB was pretty beat up - very loose and dry. Big difference with the new one, again from FRPP. I was also pleasantly surprised after when I was finally able to step on the clutch pedal: the effort was about half of what it was with the OEM Valeo clutch. I think I'll like this one. Here's the transmission ready to go:

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After the transmission, shifter, and driveshaft went back in, and before I connected the mid-pipe, I took a moment to bolt the knock sensor on the block. There is a perfect spot on the driver's side, and with the Vampire kit, John also supplies the bolt (I'll get to wiring the kit in the next couple of weeks). Here's the Bosch knock sensor, and also visible is the power wire for the block heater:

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior


After that, it was a matter of the Secondary drive belt and the rest of the stuff up front. I used a spare Goodyear Gatorback 74" belt for now, but it's a real pain to get on, so I'll exchange my new Continental belt for one that is 74.5" soon enough. Some obligatory pics of the accessories all finished and ready for the radiator, hoses, and tanks:

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Motorcraft oil filter for the first run:

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A few more pictures from underneath:

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And done (with the pulley cover to go back on when I switch belts one more time):

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Along with the coolant and oil, also have to re-connect the oil separator, drop the battery back in, then it's time to turn the key. May be pretty busy this week, but hopefully the big day will be here soon. I'm also staying with my own "custom" 170° thermostat since it did such a great job before (I would install a new one, but it has been if for just under 1,000 miles and worked perfectly). I'm still selling them as a side venture and the site is finally up for them: Termi-Stat.

Unfortunately, no driving for a few months, especially since I need to decide on the tune, but it will be great to fire it up, especially since this project has come together so well. More soon!

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EDIT. Another tidbit about coolant: these aluminum blocks don't use as much as the iron blocks. I had Terminator on the brain again and mixed up about four gallons (50/50), but realized after that I only needed just over three gallons. I dug up an owners manual for the '05-'10 Mustang (the source of this block), and the coolant capacity shows as 13.5 quarts compared to 16 for the Terminator. I know I can't make a direct comparison with the earlier GT due to all the differences in the system, but so far, it seems in the ballpark. I imagine there is a difference with the Teksid block as well, but I did not look in to it.
 
#354 ·
Nice job Joe... I'll have to follow your lead on the knock sensor for the J&S. I wondered where I was going to mount mine. Do you have another picture showing where you mounted it? I can't really tell from the photograph where on the drivers side it is.
 
#359 · (Edited)
At least 100 miles on this oil, but no solid decision yet. I suppose it depends on how much idling I do before the weather warms up and I can actually drive. In any case, it won't make it through the first season, and I'll probably send a sample to Blackstone just for the heck of it. Once the Shell oil comes out, I'll be running this regularly after:

Arm Rectangle Automotive care Automotive tire Auto part


In case anybody wanted a comparison of the hardware on the Crank Stud Mod... On the bottom is the stock 12mm x 1.5 bolt... In the middle is the ARP bolt (Part # 156-2501), and on the top is the 9/16 x 5.25" stud (part # AQ5.250-1LB) and matching 9/16" ARP nut. (Part # AQN12-1)

I also had my crank snout keyed with 3/16" square W-1 Tool Steel (Available from MSC Industrial Supply for about $7.00).

I am re-using the ARP super-washer but I had to have the hole machined at a machine shop to fit over the 9/16 stud. The shop didn't charge me and it only took the guy about 5 minutes on a lathe, including set up.

Mile High Crankshaft (@ 888 S. Lipan St., in Denver, CO) did the crank mods (keyway and drilling and tapping) for a very reasonable price.
Great info, and thanks for the comparison pic. That stud is a monster for sure - hope I won't regret not having the mod done!
 
#358 ·
In case anybody wanted a comparison of the hardware on the Crank Stud Mod... On the bottom is the stock 12mm x 1.5 bolt... In the middle is the ARP bolt (Part # 156-2501), and on the top is the 9/16 x 5.25" stud (part # AQ5.250-1LB) and matching 9/16" ARP nut. (Part # AQN12-1)

I also had my crank snout keyed with 3/16" square W-1 Tool Steel (Available from MSC Industrial Supply for about $7.00).

I am re-using the ARP super-washer but I had to have the hole machined at a machine shop to fit over the 9/16 stud. The shop didn't charge me and it only took the guy about 5 minutes on a lathe, including set up.

Mile High Crankshaft (@ 888 S. Lipan St., in Denver, CO) did the crank mods (keyway and drilling and tapping) for a very reasonable price.

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#360 ·
I'm curious why the 0w-40 weight oil. I'm under the impression that the lash adjusters (primarily in a mod motor) determine the viscosity oil. Factory lash adjusters we engineered for 30 weight, while the GT500 lash adjusters were engineered for 50 weight weren't they?
 
#365 · (Edited)
If you ask ten different people their opinion on oil, you'll probably get ten different answers! Ford has definitely been all over the map with the viscosity of the oil they have used in these mod motors. The early Cobra 4.6 engines used a 5W-30 oil, which was relatively consistent until the 5W-20 came in to play to appease the CAFE standards that rolled in about 2001 (or was it '02?). Also, you have the Cobra R with the 15W-50, the '05/'06 GT which uses a 5W-50, and the variances of the Coyote engine using anything from a 5W-30 up to the 5W- and 15W-50 oils as well. Although I'm not aware of any specific differences in the lash adjusters (other than their physical size), I am sure the bearing clearances have been fairly standard.

For a break-in, it's generally accepted to use a non-synthetic oil, although opinions vary there since many new engines come with synthetic oil right from the factory. As for specific break-in oils, they typically contain higher levels of the "anti-wear" additives Zinc (Zn) and Phosphorus (Ph), which is something the Shell diesel oil has. Even better: it can be found easily. If it hadn't been a 40-weight, I would have been okay with that, but it just so happened to work out this way.

I could probably do just fine staying with a 30-weight oil down the road, but in my opinion, the 40-weight offers a nice compromise, especially when the engines are operated "aggressively" (the oil will "shear" down with wear). Adding to that, the M1 0W-40 also has slightly higher levels of Zn & Ph, and I'm of the opinion that it is one of their better oils as the "Euro Spec", with the better "HT/HS" rating (High Temperature, High Shear). This goes the same for their 5W-50, and 15W-50, and partially so for their "High Mileage" formulas.

I've used Mobil1 going back 25+ years and it has never let me down, so I've stayed pretty loyal to them since they are a known quantity. Again, lots of opinions on brands, but M1 has always been fine by me, which has been documented with oil analysis. As an FYI, the M1 Product Guide has all their specs in it.

Adding a bit more to that, the "0W" part of the 0W-40 represents the cold-flow "pumpability", and an oil that flows better when cold is always a good choice for start-up, so even better (the lower the number, the better the cold flow). Granted, the Shell isn't there with the "15W", but it won't be in that long. Again, I would probably be fine with a 5W-30, and although I don't plan to beat the hell out of this new engine, I won't be granny-driving it either. I think the 0W-40 is a solid choice since I may have stepped up to something along those lines for any track outings. On that note, I had been using the M1 High-Mileage 5W-30 in the outgoing engine, even with less than 22,000 miles on it, and the lab reports always showed it holding up real well (it has similar levels of Zn & Ph). Hope that is a good start for my $0.02 on this.

I'm very curious about this. I *hated* the high pedal effort of the OEM clutch. It quickly wore out my OEM cable, fork, and release bearing sleeve. I've learned the OEM Cobra clutch was around 500 lbs. TOB load. I believe the Centerforce is about 350 lbs. of TOB load, which jives very well with your assessment. I have a Centerforce DYAD, and the pedal effort is perfect. With a lower TOB load usually comes a lower clamping pressure, and thus lower torque capacity (all other things being equal). With that in mind, I'd like to hear how well your single-disc Centerforce holds up to your torque (once the engine and clutch are broken in, of course.) Please keep us posted regarding the clutch.
Good things to think about, Wes, and hopefully Centerforce has made this easy. Adding to what Ed already wrote, I think the relationship between clamp load and pedal feel is something they addressed with the ball-bearing pivot points, and it appears to have worked. Since they also made used of the "puck" style friction inserts on the flywheel side to focus the clamping force, along with the centrifugal weights, it hopefully means this will be a decent clutch to use, even with elevated power levels. Once I'm on the road, I'll definitely report back!
 
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