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Aluminator Gibtec Build

448K views 789 replies 65 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Thread update: Table of Contents

Since this thread has gotten long and I've received many PM's on Facebook and e-mail with questions about the build, I figured a ToC would help anyone searching. It is based on 15 posts per page, and is also broken down in groups and now with hyperlinked post numbers. In the event some quick info is needed, this should make it easy! Also, all hyperlinks, other than the obvious cut-and-paste links are bold so they stand out and are easier to recognize, especially when not logged in.

p.1 (Posts 1-15): Short block, pistons, heads, '98 Cobra cams, bearings, ARP parts list, oil pump & windage tray
p.2 (Posts 16-30): Oil cooler gasket, block heater, head gaskets, more on ARP
p.3 (Posts 31-45): Timing components, cam bolts
p.4 (Posts 46-60): Timing cover bolt modification (aluminum block), upgraded secondary tensioner
p.5 (Posts 61-75): Cam degree tools
p.6 (Posts 76-90): Misc. chat
p.7 (Posts 91-105): Oil slinger discussion
p.8 (Posts 106-120): Oil slinger cont., rear main seal
p.9 (Posts 121-135): Rear main seal cont.
p.10 (Posts 136-150): King bearing tech from Ed
p.11 (Posts 151-165): King bearing tech cont., GT-500 rockers, timing cover hole (Cont. from P.4)
p.12 (Posts 166-180): Degreeing the cams, '98 specs
p.13 (Posts 181-195): Degreeing the cams cont., timing cover, cam follower install
p.14 (Posts 196-210): Primary tensioner ratchet modification
p.15 (Posts 211-225): Primary tensioner spacer modification (update to P.14)
p.16 (Posts 226-240): Primary tensioner spacer modification cont.
p.17 (Posts 241-255): Valve cover mock-up, exhaust manifolds
p.18 (Posts 256-270): Tensioner spacer info from Ed, ready to pull "old" engine
p.19 (Posts 271-285): Oil cooler, PCV fitting for aluminum block
p.20 (Posts 286-300): Quick Seat info
p.21 (Posts 301-315): Old vs. new piston trivia, valve covers
p.22 (Posts 316-330): New engine installed, Centerforce clutch
p.23 (Posts 331-345): Crank damper, accessory belts
p.24 (Posts 346-360): Transmission install, accessory belts cont.
p.25 (Posts 361-375): Power steering pump and A/C install notes
p.26 (Posts 376-390): First start!
p.27 (Posts 391-405): First start cont.
p.28 (Posts 406-420): Notes on PTW clearances from Ed, Vampire introduction
p.29 (Posts 421-435): Rod clearance notes from Ed, block bore information
p.30 (Posts 436-450): OE piston trivia
p.31 (Posts 451-465): Misc. oil pan discussion
p.32 (Posts 466-480): Head stud info & torque notes from Ed, wideband install, PCM harness info
p.33 (Posts 481-495): PCM connector notes
p.34 (Posts 496-510): Gauge install, oil pressure sensor, billet oil filter
p.35 (Posts 511-525): Oil and pump discussion
p.36 (Posts 526-540): Head stud re-torque
p.37 (Posts 541-555): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.38 (Posts 556-570): Head stud re-torque cont.
p.39 (Posts 571-585): Project cost sheet, Vampire install completion
p.40 (Posts 586-600): Vampire adjustments
p.41 (Posts 601-615): AFR and piston notes from Ed, Vampire gauge addition
p.42 (Posts 616-630): More from Ed on detonation, new CAI
p.43 (Posts 631-645): Vampire gauge video clip
p.44 (Posts 646-660): Dyno tune results and video clip (11/1/16), new oil separator
p.45 (Posts 661-675): Switch to Mobil1 0W-40 & UOA, piston wrist pin discussion, updated alternator
p.46 (Posts 676-690): General alternator discussion
p.47 (Posts 691-705): Bolt torque & #5 thrust bearing comments, upgraded tensioner, Whipple 2.3 on the way
p.48 (Posts 706-720): Whipple talk, new intercooler, more fuel system chat
p.49 (Posts 721-735): More on the Vampire, 4.6 vs Coyote discussion, intercooler pictures
p.50 (Posts 736-750): Eaton removed, intercooler comparison pics, Whipple installed, intercooler tech
p.51 (Posts 751-765): Some e85 talk, first drive with the Whipple and new intercooler
p.52 (Posts 766-780): Visit to Gibtec, some info on Prolong
p.53 (Posts 781-): More on Prolong, new Explorer ST to go with the Cobra.

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This project had been in the works for a while: started a few years back when I picked up a brand new set of FRPP heads and a like-new Aluminator block for less than $2,000, which sat in storage until now. The smart thing to do would have been to sell the goods and make some money, especially since my OEM engine only has 21,000 miles on it, but who can resist tinkering. Adding to that, when you can make something leaps and bounds better, might as well enjoy the fruits of your labor while you have the chance.

I'll actually begin with a shot of where I am as of the date I decided to start this thread (fall of '15), but will go backwards to the early stages and update it little by little with as much tech as I can. Since there are not a lot of Aluminator builds out there, hopefully this will be helpful to anyone considering this route. Here's the long block:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering


Before moving on, I have to pass on a world of thanks to Ed for designing the finest 2618 aluminum piston out there through Gibtec of Denver, and for his willingness to help out so many on this forum with the encyclopedia of knowledge he possesses!! For those that haven't seen the Gibtec "Custom ModMotor Piston" thread, here are my specs (0.002" oversize) and pics added from it:



Gas Circle Plastic Electric blue Liquid


Camera lens Camera Camera accessory Digital camera Lens


Helmet Sports equipment Automotive lighting Sports gear Audio equipment


I also intended to add an Aluminator build page up on my own site, but for now it just serves as a link back here since this got long. For anyone curious about the Aluminator block, this Castings page has a bunch of information on what makes it such a great choice! Stay tuned, more to come...
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Here are some of the parts that went in to the Aluminator...

Gibtec billet pistons, 9.0:1 c/r, for 3.555" bore (0.004" PTW).
Kellog forged crank, STD/STD
3V full-length windage tray
Manley H-beam forged rods with ARP2000 bolts
Total Seal rings (from Gibtec), gapped at 0.024"
King SI Bi-Metal bearings
Cloyes adjustable primary & secondary gears with OEM Ford timing chains & guides
ARP2000 head studs
ARP main cap studs & side bolts
'98 Cobra cams w/ARP Mini-Cooper 12mm bolts
Fel-Pro MLS head gaskets
Shelby GT-500 oil pump with Boundary Engineering billet gears
Canton oil pan w/Terminator pickup tube
Stewart water pump
Cobra Engineering upgrade dowels & secondary passenger tensioner
FRPP ported heads

I'll skip all the boring details like all the torque specs, but anything from ARP will have its own instruction sheet with all those numbers. Those can also be downloaded right from ARP by looking up the individual kit p/n's if anyone wants to get their hands on them before starting a project like this. Whatever ARP doesn't supply, the factory specs and tightening sequences are easy enough to follow.

It all started with this block, which was acquired through a Ford engineer after it was removed from a Pre-Production 3V Mustang. Other than some unusual etchings and paint markings, it looked like it was brand new:

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Automotive lighting Automotive design


For use with the Terminator supercharger and lower intake, the knock sensor bosses in the pic have to be ground down slightly, which I accomplished with my Makita angle grinder before the machine shop went to work on it. Fast forward just a bit and here's the short-block up on the stand (no pics up to here since this thread started a bit late - sorry!):

Automotive engine gasket Vehicle Motor vehicle Engineering Auto part


As an FYI, the main bearing clearances are 0.002", and about the same for the rods at 0.0022". I'd have to look at my notes, but I think the crank end-play is 0.005" as well, but everything went together in spec easily. The King bearings are top notch, and for a street driven car, their Bi-Metal SI series is the way to go. For the rods, they are CR868SI, and the main set is MB5281SI with a slight twist.

Here is a King drawing of the main set, note the two-piece #5 thrust bearing:

Rectangle Font Slope Line Material property


As a suggestion from Ed, and in order to toss the thrust washer, a nice feature from King is the ability for find a one-piece flanged upper for #5, but you actually have to purchase MB5219SI just to snag that one bearing. Here's the drawings for them (although listed under the old p/n):

Rectangle Font Parallel Electric blue Pattern


The lone pack removed from that set, with the upper flanged bearing on the left side (F5219U shown above). It's the one with the oil groove, very important - do not use the other one!!

Blue Automotive tire Road surface Wood Gas


I neglected to get a picture of the bearings in the saddles, but you now have flanged upper AND lower bearings in the thrust cap and rid yourself of the "tinker toy" setup (as Ed calls it). You spend just a few $$$ more, but the extra durability is well worth it. For anyone wanting to read up more on King, there is a great document put together by their R&D manager that Ed has posted more than once, and is attached at the end of this post.

Anyway, the short block getting ready with the Fel-Pro 26187PT & 26222PT MLS head gaskets and just TWO studs at each corner for ease of setting the heads down. You don't need to actually thread in any studs before setting a head down (that's what the locating dowels are for), but I wanted the two in there in case either one of the heads slipped out of my hands! I also set the crank position with the holding tool (from the OTC 4.6 tool set), which put pistons #1 & #6 at TDC. You can also see the new coolant inlet tube and head dowels, which were part of the FRPP M-6026-A46 kit:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper Automotive design


Product Motor vehicle Audio equipment Automotive engine gasket Automotive exterior


Just for the heck of it, here's a shot from underneath, looking at the #7 piston which is at BDC. The wrist pin (tool steel from Gibtec, by the way) is close to the bottom of the bore, but not beyond it in any way like with a stroker:

Gas Auto part Metal Automotive exterior Bumper


Next up, head studs, cam swap, upgraded dowel pins, and oil pump.

Also, King bearing document - well worth the read:

View attachment King Bearing Materials.pdf
 
#7 ·
Thanks, Brandon - it's going to be a beautiful engine when done! The long-block is essentially complete now, but just taking a break so I can acquire all the components to degree the cams. More on the way shortly...
 
#8 ·
Looking very nice Joe!

Whenever you can you should try to have 1 to 2 threads of stud appear above the top of the fully tightened nut. In the pic below you need a little more stud above the nut. See inside the red circle on the outboard 8mm stud

Black Gas Automotive tire Auto part Bumper


Ford does not always help us with their hole drillings - especially when they are a little deep. The easiest fix is to loosen the stud and back it out 1 to 2 turns, spin the nut down and if you have your 1 to 2 threads above the crown of the nut you are good to go. Torque it to spec and go to the next bad boy.

Ed
 
#9 · (Edited)
Looking very nice Joe!

Whenever you can you should try to have 1 to 2 threads of stud appear above the top of the fully tightened nut.

Ford does not always help us with their hole drillings - especially when they are a little deep. The easiest fix is to loosen the stud and back it out 1 to 2 turns, spin the nut down and if you have your 1 to 2 threads above the crown of the nut you are good to go. Torque it to spec and go to the next bad boy.

Ed
Thanks for pointing it out, Ed. Unlike the heads where the studs don't thread down all the way, the outboard mains went in a bit deeper. Will pop the pan off and get them adjusted.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Before I forget, for anyone looking at the ARP bolts for the aluminum block, here are some numbers to get started.

Head studs (2000 series), standard for all 4.6 blocks: 256-4001
Main cap stud kit (3V): 156-5901
Side bolts (3V): 156-5002
Crank snout bolt & washer: 156-2501
Cam bolts (12mm Mini Cooper), Summit p/n for BOLT ONLY: M19AU20851L
Cam washers (7/16" which need to be drilled for 12mm bolts): 200-8717 - only two needed

The Manley rods (14042R-8) came with the 2000 series bolts already, but the bolts can be purchased separately as 200-6207 in packs of eight for those that want to upgrade. I should also mention that the stretch on all of mine was 0.006" at 60 ft/lbs, which is within the limits of what Manley specifies.

Generic shot of the rods for the heck of it, with more details to come...

Bicycle part Automotive lighting Cosmetics Font Audio equipment
 
#11 · (Edited)
Once the heads were set down, I threaded nuts and washers on the two corner studs and got to work swapping each OEM cam out for the '98 set (20° more duration on the intake, same specs as the OE Terminator exhaust cams). I did these one at a time and threaded the remaining studs in since the access was easier (I had also popped all the cam followers out before starting). Each stud was threaded in with a nut driver using a 3/16" hex bit, just "finger tight".

Gear Automotive air manifold Motor vehicle Auto part Camshaft


Be sure to keep the cams straight, but it's easy enough to match the engineering numbers on each, while some will have an indication in the back end cap as to their position (i.e., "LE" for left exhaust). With aftermarket cams, this is obviously different, but here is a screen shot of the OEM cam base numbers for reference to show which position they go in:

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Pattern


The "6A270" and that sequence are the same on the '98 cams, just not the prefix and suffix:

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Pattern


With each cam going back in one by one, I used Clevite assembly lube in the saddles then torqued the caps down in the factory sequence (followers not reinstalled yet). The head studs then were torqued down to 85 ft/lbs (not 100 as ARP specifies!) per the factory sequence as well. Be sure to use plenty of the ARP moly lube, and when it comes to the studs, you'll use it on TOP of the washers, as well as the bottom of the nut and on the threads. The bolt torque sequence, again, is on the spec sheet right from ARP.

Cam cap torque chart:

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Engineering


I was sort of doing this backward by installing the heads first, but it made it easy to get the giant boxes off the floor of my garage. I also got real lucky here in that I ended up trading my original FRPP heads for another FRPP set - also new - that were ported by Roush back in the day. This was too good to pass up, especially since these had new cams and followers even though they are listed as bare (I didn't get my hands on the '98 cams until after, but then sold the new OEM cams for the same price). For anyone curious, here's a blurb on those heads:

Font Engineering Auto part Rectangle Machine


From there, it was on to the upgraded tensioner pins...

I was lucky enough to get a new fixture from James Hellermann at Cobra Engineering that is basically "one-time-use" (no hardened guide bushings), but came out without a mark and then was put away for safe keeping. Here's the plate with the depth marked before drilling (I actually mounted it before I bolted the heads on, but dragged my feet on doing the job):

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle part Automotive design Automotive exterior


After you drill the holes, the plate gets flipped so you can make use of the larger holes for the tap. Pretty clever! I used WD-40 and all went smooth.

White Light Motor vehicle Bicycle part Gas


Here, the pins are screwed in and torqued down. I used red loctite and 18 ft/lbs which is safe for an 8mm thread. With these pins, you also have to acquire a 9mm drill bit to open the holes in the tensioner arm so they fit over the larger pin. I found the bit through Ace Hardware (via a Google search), and had my machine shop drill the arms on a press so the holes were perfectly straight.

Light Rim Nickel Gas Bicycle part


Coming up shortly: upgrading the steel-backed Shelby oil pump with billet gears.
 
#16 ·
With each cam going back in one by one, I used Clevite assembly lube in the saddles then torqued the caps down in the factory sequence. The head studs then were torqued down to 85 ft/lbs (not 100 as ARP specifies!) per the factory sequence as well. Be sure to use plenty of the ARP moly lube, and when it comes to the studs, you'll use it on TOP of the washers, as well as the bottom of the nut and on the threads. For anyone that needs a refresher on the bolt sequence, you can download the spec sheets right from ARP with that information easily enough.
jr - you state that you torqued the head stud nuts down to 85 ft/lbs and not 100 ft/lbs as ARP specifies with the instructions sent with the studs. What is the purpose for this?
 
#13 · (Edited)
The Shelby GT-500 oil pump in next. There is an Oil pump section on my own site with a bunch of info, but I'll add some here. The latest Shelby pump (also the same as the Melling M360), is actually a 3V HV/HP version, but with a monster steel backing plate to keep oil from flowing out there due to flex. The pump can be purchased through Tousley or Tasca for about $75, which is a great deal (p/n DR3Z-6600-A). Also added to the mix is a set of billet steel gears from Boundary Engineering which were just over $200, making this a great bang for the buck.

While Boundary Engineering isn't as common as some of the other shops out there making these gears, I am fully confident that their gears are every bit as good, if not better than the others. If you get a set in your hands, you'll most likely think the same. The company's owner, Travis, had this to say from another thread:

"...I manufacture and design the gears myself. These are made in America, made by me actually. There aren't many that actually know how to design a trochoidal gerotor pump, but I'm one of them. I didn't hit the copy key, these use a unique pattern that mitigates the torsion moments on the teeth and creates a bigger pumping chamber. We have thousands of my designed gears floating in different vehicles, and many house name my brand. I challenge you to find one that has failed."

Fine by me. Anyway, here are the billet gears next to the powdered metal stock set:

Ball Grey Football Font Circle


Adding these gears to a pump is a no-brainer: unscrew the back plate, remove the old set, and insert the new (with some lubricant as well). This pump in the picture is actually a standard 3V pump that I had and decided not to use, but you get the idea:

Bicycle part Rim Auto part Circle Nickel


The steel backing plate goes back on easily on the actual Shelby pump and the screws get torqued down to 89 in/lbs. after just threading them in by hand first. I tightened them in a criss-cross pattern and marked each as shown just to be sure I got all of them - fairly important! Before mounting it, I also added a small bead of anaerobic gasket maker around the port just to keep it completely sealed with the block (some "upgraded" pumps will have an o-ring here):

Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Musical instrument Auto part


The pump initially attached with three bolts, with a fourth (lower right) added when the timing chain guide is bolted on. You also have to align the two flats inside the gears with those on the crank, but it's pretty straightforward:

White Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Machine


Once the pump and windage tray are on, it's time to add the pickup. The nice thing about this 3V block is the full-length tray - an "upgrade" over the standard 4V half-length tray. The ARP studs are also specific if you use the tray, and it bolts right back on easily. For guys that have a WAP block and want to add the 3V tray, it's inexpensive through Ford (about $25) as 4R3Z-6687-BA. Here's how it looks, and note the "stand" on the #4 cap:

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Engineering Automotive wheel system Auto part


With regards to the pickup, the OEM Terminator (4V) version is pefect since the length allows it to sit about 1/4" above the pan bottom (also measured this with Silly Putty in my Canton pan). Additionally, it is considered a "high-flow funnel type" by Ford, so it never hurts to have the ability to get more oil up top. Here is a comparison picture with a newer style on the left (I have no idea why Ford made the change):

Road surface Circle Gas Font Metal


One caveat now with the 4V tube is the "scraper" that runs along the front edge. If you are using the full-length tray, it will have to be cut off, which is easy enough. As an alternative, the '05-'10 (3V) pickup will work since the depth is identical, but I believe it is the newer style as seen above left (this one in the picture is for the 5.8 Shelby). In any case, here is a side view of a new pickup - part of the scraper was simply removed with a cut-off wheel tracing the contour of the tube with about 1/2" clearance:

Bicycle part Sports equipment Musical instrument Grass Bicycle accessory


Once that is done, it bolts on to the bottom of the pump (don't forget the o-ring!) and to the #4 cap stand. With an upgrade to the ARP stud kit, you have to have about 0.070" removed from the stand, but that is shown clearly on the instruction sheet that comes with the stud kit (the machine shop handling my block took care of this for me). Here's the final product, and in the second picture, you can also see the new rear main seal plate in place as well:

Hood Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Car


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


From here, the Canton "road race" pan, 15-784 (which was the same used on the 2000 Cobra R), was mounted up. There is also an Oil pan section on my site with some more information there, but bolting on the pan is real simple. Since the rear main seal plate is attached with a bead of RTV under it (I used the Permatex black, which is the same used when the engines were originally built) I also added two small beads at the rail joints before putting the gasket and pan in place. All my gaskets were from FelPro, by the way.

With the timing chain guides in place, and ready to move on. The upper bolt for the driver's guide is not shown since it was left out of my FR timing kit (shown in Post #35), but it was sent later along with a couple others that were missing.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood


Applicable page from the assembly manual:

Font Map Parallel Engineering Line art


Stay tuned for the rest of the timing gear!
 
#27 ·
The Shelby GT-500 oil pump in next. There is an Oil pump section on my own site with a bunch of info, but I'll add some here. The latest Shelby pump (also the same as the Melling M360), is actually a 3V HV/HP version, but with a monster steel backing plate to keep oil from flowing out there due to flex. The pump can be purchased through Tousley or Tasca for about $75, which is a great deal (p/n DR3Z-6600-A). Also added to the mix is a set of billet steel gears from Boundary Engineering which were just over $200, making this a great bang for the buck.

While Boundary Engineering isn't as common as some of the other shops out there making these gears, I am fully confident that their gears are every bit as good, if not better than the others. If you get a set in your hands, you'll most likely think the same. The company's owner, Travis, had this to say from another thread:

...I manufacture and design the gears myself. These are made in America, made by me actually. There aren't many that actually know how to design a trochoidal gerotor pump, but I'm one of them. I didn't hit the copy key, these use a unique pattern that mitigates the torsion moments on the teeth and creates a bigger pumping chamber. We have thousands of my designed gears floating in different vehicles, and many house name my brand. I challenge you to find one that has failed.

Fine by me. Anyway, here are the billet gears next to the powdered metal stock set:

View attachment 135665

Adding these gears to a pump is a no-brainer: unscrew the back plate, remove the old set, and insert the new. This pump in the picture is actually another 3V pump that I had and decided not to use, but you get the idea:

View attachment 135673

The steel backing plate goes back on easily on the actual Shelby pump and the screws get torqued down to 89 in/lbs. Before mounting it, I also added a small bead of anaerobic gasket maker around the port just to keep it completely sealed with the block (some "upgraded" pumps will have an o-ring here):

View attachment 135681

The pump initially attached with three bolts, with a fourth (lower right) added when the timing chain guide is bolted on. You also have to align the two flats inside the gears with those on the crank, but it's pretty straightforward:

View attachment 135689

Once the pump and windage tray are on, it's time to add the pickup. The nice thing about this 3V block is the full-length tray - an "upgrade" over the standard 4V half-length tray. The ARP studs are also specific if you use the tray, and it bolts right back on easily. For guys that have a WAP block and want to add the 3V tray, it's inexpensive through Ford (about $25) as 4R3Z-6687-BA. Here's how it looks:

View attachment 135697

With regards to the pickup, the OEM Terminator (4V) version is pefect since the length allows it to sit about 1/4" above the pan bottom (also measured this with Silly Putty in my Canton pan). Additionally, it is considered a "high-flow funnel type" by Ford, so it never hurts to have the ability to get more oil up top. Here is a comparison picture with a newer style on the left (I have no idea why Ford made the change):

View attachment 135705

One caveat now with the 4V tube is the "scraper" that runs along the front edge. If you are using the full-length tray, it will have to be cut off, which is easy enough. As an alternative, the '05-'10 (3V) pickup will work since the depth is identical, but I believe it is the newer style as seen above left (this one in the picture is for the 5.8 Shelby). In any case, here is a side view of a new pickup - part of the scraper was simply removed with a cut-off wheel tracing the contour of the tube with about 1/2" clearance:

View attachment 135713

Once that is done, it bolts on to the bottom of the pump (don't forget the o-ring!) and to a "stand" on the #4 cap. With an upgrade to the ARP stud kit, you have to have about 0.070" removed from the stand, but that is shown clearly on the instruction sheet that comes with the stud kit (the machine shop handling my block took care of this for me). Here's the final product, and in the second picture, you can also see the new rear main seal plate in place as well:

View attachment 135721

View attachment 135729

From here, the Canton "road race" pan, 15-784 (which was the same used on the 2000 Cobra R), was mounted up. There is also an Oil pan section on my site with some more information there, but bolting on the pan is real simple. Since the rear main seal plate is attached with a bead of RTV under it (I used the Permatex black, which is the same used when the engines were originally built) I also added two small beads at the rail joints before putting the gasket and pan in place. All my gaskets were from FelPro, by the way.

All done, with the timing chain guides added as well:

View attachment 135737

Stay tuned for the rest of the timing gear!
This is one great upgrade Joe! Thanks for taking the time to document it with both words and pictures.

Ed
 
#18 ·
Well since I'm using the factory cast iron block, would 85 still be a good number or go higher? I'm just a victim of the 90s 5. 0L stuff and you had to torque the head studs down until they almost broke if you wanted to keep the heads from lifting off the block from all the nitrous we were using. And even that seldom worked (o-ringing the block was the only real cure). So I assume 85 would still seal up plenty good for 18+ lbs of boost?
 
#22 ·
Was going to jump over to the timing gear, but since I left off with the oiling (and also listed the Stewart water pump), I wanted to add some comments about the oil cooler adapter gasket. I don't remember off hand if these are still available through Ford any longer, but no matter - if you buy the FelPro "Crank set", CS97904, you will get them for the iron and aluminum blocks. Here's that kit:

Rectangle Line Font Material property Auto part


At one point, that standard was orange for iron block and blue for aluminum, but these things have come in a few different colors via FelPro, so the easiest way to tell which one you need is by the size of the coolant opening. In the gasket kit I bought, both of them were actually blue (and I have seen red and orange still as well):

Azure Font Electric blue Circle Gas


For the Aluminator and Teksid blocks, the blue one on the right is correct: it is the one with the slightly larger coolant port. With it loosely attached to the block, the correct fit is obvious.

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior Engineering Gas


For some useless trivia, the Aluminator and WAP blocks have only one freeze plug, which is located on the driver's side at the rear of the block. I happened to have been storing a New Old Stock block heater kit, and even though I don't drive my Cobra in the winter, I added the fitting (seen to the right), which will allow me to pre-heat the block during the cold season for the weekly start-up's. If you are a Candian customer, these are standard, but were an option as well for owners in other cold climates. Not really necessary, but just some extra insurance against the cold temps.

Just for the heck of it, here is an official Ford drawing of where the fitting goes. Back to the build stuff shortly.

Font Parallel Design Screenshot Document
 
#62 ·
I put mine at 90lbs on my Teksid block. Let the motor sit for 24 hours, loosened them then torgued them again. It's been over 5 yrs now (DD) with no issues what so ever. And im at 842rwhp on pump gas.
 
#24 ·
I wouldn't say "only" 85 ft/lbs - that is plenty. If you use the standard 8740 studs, the number is lower - as already mentioned. There are plenty of guys using the OEM MLS head gaskets with factory head bolts and running much higher levels of boost than I ever will.
 
#29 ·
One additional comment on the Teksid and WAP gaskets for the oil and water manifold on the driverside of the block. These things can get tricky. If you have any doubt lay the gasket up against the block and visually check before buttoning things up.

The gasket on the right with the provision for a taller water inlet is the WAP block gasket and also the 99 Teksid block gasket.

Azure Font Electric blue Technology Circle


The gasket on the left with the shorter water inlet is the pre-99 Teksid gasket and also a variety of iron blocks.

Ed
 
#44 ·
One additional comment on the Teksid and WAP gaskets for the oil and water manifold on the driverside of the block. These things can get tricky. If you have any doubt lay the gasket up against the block and visually check before buttoning things up.

The gasket on the right with the provision for a taller water inlet is the WAP block gasket and also the 99 Teksid block gasket.

The gasket on the left with the shorter water inlet is the pre-99 Teksid gasket and also a variety of iron blocks.

Ed
Thanks for adding that tidbit, Ed. I wasn't aware of differences in the earlier Tesksid blocks, but there is no doubt the best way to ensure the match is to just line them up. I knew the larger one would work fine, but no sense in not verifying it while the project is ongoing!

Well done write up
Wow! I will definitely be referring back to this thread when i get to this point in my build! Thanks for all the detail!
Thanks for the comments! Will be probably adding little details here and there before I get on to the next step.
 
#30 ·
On my car I'm running the 8740 head studs and the instructions they came with said torque to 80ftlb. These head studs were purchased back in the spring of 2015. I'm running them with Felpro
Part # 26222PT (right)
Part # 26187PT (left)
head gaskets at almost 23 psi on my terminator. So far no issues *knocks on the wooden desk*..:)
 
#32 ·
Ed, very good info on the torque specs. 85 ft lbs it is. Like you said, these mod motors are in many ways superior to the old push rod v8 SBF's of yesteryear. And it seems that head gasket sealing is one of those areas since it is rarely, if ever, reported someone experiences a head gasket leak/failure. I'm just being paranoid since I fought that for years back in the 90s. I distinctly remember with vivid clarity putting those motors together with head studs torqued to a ridiculous amount and Fel Pro 1011-1 head gaskets and as soon as you hit the second stage of nitrous, you got a gallon of coolant splashed all over the windshield from the heads literally lifting off the block and compression flooding the cooling system... Good times lol.

Great documentation Jr. Like someone else commented, these build threads never get old. Your build is very impressive. Your meticulous attention to detail in admirable. I wish I had the cash flow to fund some other parts, but I have spared no expense on the must have parts. For what I'm doing and the power level I'm at, I'm quite certain that with good fuel, this will be the first - and last - time I have to do this... Lesson learned, albeit the hard way, for me ;)
 
#35 · (Edited)
Next up: timing components!

I had initially thought - well, for a brief moment - about just putting in stock gears and settings the stock cams all at "zero" based on the Ford procedure. Fortunately, I saw the light and realized that DOHC cams have to be precisely set, especially when a lot of dollars are going in to the engine (again, I also picked up a real nice set of '98 cams - nothing too radical). Since this is a new build, I wasn't going to scavenge any parts off another engine, so the first addition to the timing components pile of parts was the FRPP M-6004-A464 kit:

Body jewelry Bicycle part Font Art Jewellery


For what is contained within, it really is a fantastic deal at just over $400, especially with the all-iron tensioners. While I'll be using those tensioners, the OEM chains, guides, and intake cam spacers, it was also convenient to get a whole lot of little stuff like new timing cover bolts and gaskets, front crank seal, and even the crank trigger wheel. If you buy all these items from Ford (even at Tousley or Tasca prices), you'll still come in at over $600. If you are someone who is planning to use the OEM sprockets, the kit is an even better deal since the price for all those items will still add another $200 or so.

As for seeing the light, the degreeing process will be accomplished thanks to all new Cloyes billet gears. For anyone that has tackled this, the Cloyes gear really can't be beat (not counting a couple manufacturing glitches from back in '07 or so). Unfortunately, factor in another $450 or so on their adjustable cam sprockets (buy all four), the billet one-piece crank gear, and a real nice primary gear kit. Adding to that, you'll still have to pick up the appropriate tools to to the job, so figure another $300-ish there.

Here are those items and the prices I paid through Autoplicity (drop-shipped right from Cloyes, and arrived in three days).

#S790HP9 cam gears, 4 @ $37 ea:

Crankset Gear Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system


#S869HP crank gear, $36:

Font Auto part Automotive wheel system Circle Gas


#93169A primary gear set, $256:

Gear Bicycle part Rim Bicycle drivetrain part Tool


Cloyes also sells all these items as a complete kit, with the exception of the cam gears where only two are adjustable there, AND they include chains. For anyone serious about this, just stay with the OEM Morse chains - they really can take a beating, although I think the new "Z" chain of theirs may be on par with the factory secondary. Just in case, if you decide that this is the easier way to go, this kit carries the Cloyes p/n 93175A, which was about $460 the last time I checked:

Crankset Gear Bicycle part Font Motor vehicle


Anyway, here is a page from the Cloyes catalog that lays out all the DOHC parts, but it's a bit easier to read if you go to their site and download the whole thing in PDF format (http://www.cloyes.com/Images/CloyesHP_Catalog.pdf):

Motor vehicle Font Material property Poster Advertising


For now, everything was installed in the "zero" positions in preparation for dialing it all in (more details on that when I get it documented), so here is a run through on getting everything set up. Incidentally, the Ford shop manual has this process documented quite well as do the instructions for the FRPP kit. If you need a service manual, whether the electronic version or the monsted PDF document, they are both available on my SVT Documents page. Also, the FRPP instructions, in PDF format, are available right from the FRPP site (which also includes a parts list for the kit).

Moving right along. With the aid of the OTC 6498 DOHC cam kit, I made sure the crank was set so piston #1 (& #6) was at TDC using the special tool. The key will actually be at the 315° position, not straight up. The chain guides are also in position, and once the crank is lined up correctly, you remove the tool and set the crank gear on with the small flange facing out (the timing dot will be visible as seen in the picture up above).

Land vehicle Tire Wheel White Automotive tire


Once the cams are in, their keyways need to be set to the six o-clock position in relation to the head (perpendicular to the deck) and then held in position, also with a tool from the OTC kit. Here's how it looks from behind the head (driver's side shown for reference):

Product Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior


When getting the secondary chains ready to go, pay attention since the cam gears go on differently for each side. It isn't real obvious with any of the documentation, but the sprockets have a flange that faces out for the passenger side, but in (towards the back of the head) on the driver's side. If you don't figure it out when sliding the chains over the tensioner pads, it will become obvious when you try to mount the primary gears. Here is the passenger side chain and gears with the dots on each gear adjacent to the marked link, and the flange facing out:

Automotive tire Rim Electric blue Automotive wheel system Bicycle part


The driver's side, with the flange oriented at the rear (the dots are marked on both sides, so don't worry):

Office supplies Body jewelry Automotive tire Font Jewellery


Before installing the secondary chains on the cams, you also want to install each tensioner there since the chains slip over them (although it is actually a real snug fit when the chains are new). On that note, three of the four tensioners actually are placed against the "slack" side of the chain, which is correct. That would be both primary chains, and the driver's side secondary chain (the one in between the cams). Think of a bicycle sprocket turning, looking at it from the right - the drive side is the upper chain, and the slack side is underneath. For whatever reason, Ford used a fourth tensioner on the passenger side that faces down, like on the driver's side, but this is not the slack side of the chain - the top is.

Not to worry though, since James at Cobra Engineering has made a billet tensioner body that you simply swap out the parts from the OEM verision, and mount this on in the correct fashion. It's simple, and perfect (details here). It literally takes just a minute to make the modification, which is well worth it for the timing to be precise. Here are the tensioners bolted on ready to go (with the Mini Cooper bolts and washer shown for reference):

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Automotive design Auto part


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Camera lens Auto part


From here, the chain/sprocket assembly slides on to the cam pairs (also with the cam keys installed, but with the bolts, washer, and intake spacer removed first!). Here's the driver's side for reference - note the keyway position:

Product Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Engineering


Once these chains are on, you have to pull the pins in each tensioner before moving on to the primary gears which mount on each exhaust cam. Just to be safe, verify that each chain is centered on the tensioner pad (in case you got the cam sprockets on backwards). The drivers side looks like this, and it's similar on the passenger side (note the pin is still in, but it was removed right after):

Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Office equipment Hubcap


Coming up shortly, the big chains!
 
#37 ·
Next up: timing components!

I had initially thought - well, for a brief moment - about just putting in stock gears and settings the stock cams all at "zero" based on the Ford procedure. Fortunately, I saw the light and realized that DOHC cams have to be precisely set, especially when a lot of dollars are going in to the engine (again, I also picked up a real nice set of '98 cams - nothing too radical). Since this is a new build, I wasn't going to scavenge any parts off another engine, so the first addition to the timing components pile of parts was the FRPP M-6004-A464 kit:

View attachment 135889

For what is contained within, it really is a fantastic deal at just over $400, especially with the all-iron tensioners. While I'll be using those tensioners, the OEM chains, guides, and intake cam spacers, it was also convenient to get a whole lot of little stuff like new timing cover bolts and gaskets, front crank seal, and even the crank trigger wheel. If you buy all these items from Ford (even at Tousley or Tasca prices), you'll still come in at over $600. If you are someone who is planning to use the OEM sprockets, the kit is an even better deal since the price for all those items will still add another $200 or so.

As for seeing the light, the degreeing process will be accomplished thanks to all new Cloyes billet gears. For anyone that has tackled this, the Cloyes gear really can't be beat (not counting a couple manufacturing glitches from back in '07 or so). Unfortunately, factor in another $450 or so on their adjustable cam sprockets (buy all four), the billet one-piece crank gear, and a real nice primary gear kit. Adding to that, you'll still have to pick up the appropriate tools to to the job, so figure another $300-ish there.

Here are those items and the prices I paid through Autoplicity (drop-shipped right from Cloyes, and arrived in three days).

#S790HP9 cam gears, 4 @ $37 ea:

View attachment 135897

#S869HP crank gear, $36:

View attachment 135905

#93169A primary gear set, $256:

View attachment 135913

Cloyes also sells all these items as a complete kit, with the exception of the cam gears where only two are adjustable there, AND they include chains. For anyone serious about this, just stay with the OEM Morse chains - they really can take a beating, although I think the new "Z" chain of theirs may be on par with the factory secondary. Just in case, if you decide that this is the easier way to go, this kit carries the Cloyes p/n 93175A, which was about $460 the last time I checked:

View attachment 135921

Anyway, here is a page from the Cloyes catalog that lays out all the DOHC parts, but it's a bit easier to read if you go to their site and download the whole thing in PDF format (http://www.cloyes.com/Images/CloyesHP_Catalog.pdf):

View attachment 135929

For now, everything was installed in the "zero" positions in preparation for dialing it all in (more details on that when I get it documented), so here is a run through on getting everything set up. Incidentally, the Ford shop manual has this process documented quite well as do the instructions for the FRPP kit. If you need a service manual, whether the electronic version or the monsted PDF document, they are both available on my SVT Documents page. Also, the FRPP instructions, in PDF format, are available right from the FRPP site (which also includes a parts list for the kit).

Moving right along. With the aid of the OTC 6498 DOHC cam kit, I made sure the crank was set so piston #1 (& #6) was at TDC using the special tool. The key will actually be at the 315° position, not straight up. The chain guides are also in position, and once the crank is lined up correctly, you remove the tool and set the crank gear on with the small flange facing out (the timing dot will be visible as seen in the picture up above).

View attachment 135937

Once the cams are in, their keyways need to be set to the six o-clock position in relation to the head (perpendicular to the deck) and then held in position, also with a tool from the OTC kit. Here's how it looks from behind the head (driver's side shown for reference):

View attachment 135945

When getting the secondary chains ready to go, pay attention since the cam gears go on differently for each side. It isn't real obvious with any of the documentation, but the sprockets have a flange that faces out for the passenger side, but in (towards the back of the head) on the driver's side. If you don't figure it out when sliding the chains over the tensioner pads, it will become obvious when you try to mount the primary gears. Here is the passenger side chain and gears with the dots on each gear adjacent to the marked link, and the flange facing out:

View attachment 135953

The driver's side, with the flange oriented at the rear (the dots are marked on both sides, so don't worry):

View attachment 135961

Before installing the secondary chains on the cams, you also want to install each tensioner there since the chains slip over them (although it is actually a real snug fit when the chains are new). On that note, three of the four tensioners actually are placed against the "slack" side of the chain, which is correct. That would be both primary chains, and the driver's side secondary chain (the one in between the cams). Think of a bicycle sprocket turning, looking at it from the right - the drive side is the upper chain, and the slack side is underneath. For whatever reason, Ford used a fourth tensioner on the passenger side that faces down, like on the driver's side, but this is not the slack side of the chain - the top is.

Not to worry though, since James at Cobra Engineering has made a billet tensioner body that you simply swap out the parts from the OEM verision, and mount this on in the correct fashion. It's simple, and perfect (details here). It literally takes just a minute to make the modification, which is well worth it for the timing to be precise. Here are the tensioners bolted on ready to go (with the Mini Cooper bolts and washer shown for reference):

View attachment 135969

View attachment 135977

From here, the chain/sprocket assembly slides on to the cam pairs (also with the cam keys installed, but with the bolts, washer, and intake spacer removed first!). Here's the driver's side for reference - note the keyway position:

View attachment 135985

Once these chains are on, you have to pull the pins in each tensioner before moving on to the primary gears which mount on each exhaust cam. Just to be safe, verify that each chain is centered on the tensioner pad (in case you got the cam sprockets on backwards). The drivers side looks like this, and it's similar on the passenger side (note the pin is still in, but it was removed right after):

View attachment 135993

Coming up shortly, the big chains!
Great write up with excellent pics and explanation.... bravo sir.
 
#40 · (Edited)
The primary gears and chains are up next...

I didn't want to forget, but with the '98 cams, one of the benefits - again - are the larger 12mm bolts compared to 10mm from '01-'04. As already mentioned, the Mini Cooper 12mm set is perfect, and offer some extra length compared to a Mustang-specific bolt. Additionally, these can be torqued down to 125 ft/lbs (off the top of my head) once the timing is set, so the cams won't be going anywhere. Just for reference, here is a new bolt & washer compared to a 10mm Ford bolt and matching washer - quite the difference:

Audio equipment Gas Font Auto part Circle


Again, if you go the same route as I have, you can get four of the bolts through Summit (without the washers) and then you add two specific 7/16" ID washers that will be drilled out to fit the new bolts. You only need two washers since the hub of each Cloyes primary gear takes the place of that washer.

On to those gears, they are obviously specific to each side. Unlike the stock photo I used in post #35, these gears are solid, which is also shown in the Cloyes ad. The drivers side gear has the tab on the front for the cam position sensor unlike the passenger side, but more importantly, they have different flanges on the back which allow them to mate properly to the appropriate secondary sprocket. If you happen to mix those up, it will become evident when you try to tighten the bolt and find that the gear does not sit flush to the cam face. Here's how they look from the back just for general reference:

Door Rim Circle Automotive wheel system Auto part


Another nice feature, other than them being ridiculously solid billet steel, are the cam locating pins. They have to align in the keyway of the cam, yet can still be adjusted 5° either way. Once the set screws and the cam bolt is tightened, they are definitely not moving! This is a larger blow-up from Cloyes, but worth showing while I keep giving this gear set props!

Automotive lighting Font Auto part Parallel Circle


Mounting these gears is real simple, and like the secondary set, you wrap the chain with the locating link adjacent to the timing dot on the gear, then slip the chain over the crank sprocket with its timing mark lined up with the correct link. The driver's side goes on first. Here's that gear mounted up (also showing the ARP bolt):

Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim


The chain is obviously on the crank gear before you move on to the passenger side, but both line up the same way on the bottom (I marked the dot just to see it easier). These next two pictures show the other primary gear, as well as a close-up of the crank gear, also with its bolt and washer loosely in place:

Automotive tire Flash photography Automotive design Automotive wheel system Font


Automotive tire Wheel Product Bicycle part Rim


From here, you are in the home stretch and slip on each tensioner arm followed by their tensioners (they are side-specific, by the way!). It's simple, but just in case, here is a tech drawing of them that won't leave any doubt as to where they go:

Human body Map Organism Line Font


Also, when it comes to the intake cams, there will be a spacer that slips on to the cam, followed by the washer and bolt. If you goofed and got the secondary gears on incorrectly, you won't have made it through the installation of the primary gears, but here is how it all looks from the top (showing the passenger side this time):

Automotive tire Gas Rim Automotive exterior Camshaft


The cam bolts are all installed finger-tight for now, and at this point, I'm back to post #1 with the long-block all together. Note in the picture that the pins have not been pulled from the primary tenstioners. Once the degreeing process is started, if the primary gear needs to be slipped off to access the secondary cam sprocket, there is enough slack in the chains to allow this, but the chains are tight enough to maintain accuracy (some guys use clamps on the chain(s) when setting the cams).

When the cams are all in position and it's time to prepare for the timing cover installation, the pins will come out. Now, I take a break, but soon enough, I'll document the process of getting these cams dialed in. If any random - and important - thoughts pop in to my head from now and until then, I'll be sure to share them.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering
 
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