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My 3.6L KB Terminator install

11K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  GodStang 
#1 ·
Most of yall know the car. Going to start a build/progress thread hopefully to help me get more motivated. The build is a GT500 3.6LC being adapted to the 03-04 Cobra.

This was the last build on the car here 2.8LC Behemoth inlet 770rwhp/709rwtq. Car ran great but did not have the power I wanted:



Walk around












and bought a 3.6LC to replace it. Here are some pics for comparison:















Then started to test fit everything:

























 
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#12 ·
Pulled the wiring harness to relocate the fuse box under the fender:



Fuse box moved but man needs touch up paint:



Custom spacer for the bypass tube:



Fuse box new home:



Just an overview shot:



Another fuse box shot:



Box hidden now:





Just a pic running lines:



A trickflow part to add 75hp!





new intake tube:





massive diesel filter:



Making a throttle bracket out of shipping material:





The stock vs ours:



After I powder coated it:



three I missed:

Fuel lines done being relocated:



Test fitting intake system:



Testing TB linkage

[video]http://vid23.photobucket.com/albums/b368/GodStang/Blown%2003%20Engine/CA967F63-52AB-45C1-89E6-9D24F2CB17F9_zpsg68wkeey.mp4[/video]
 
#13 ·
If I had a Terminator, for sure I would bolt up a Mammoth KB blower. You can't beat the instant boost and ease of installation. I also like the other top notch parts in this build such as the Maximum motorsports K member. On a side note, I really cannot understand why some people butcher and hack up their street Terminator Cobra's with a turbo kit install that results in insanely high costs and tons of head aches when you can just simply bolt on a massive blower on your terminator Cobra and be done with it. Kennie Bell bolted on mammoth blower to a terminator with a stock short block, stock exhaust manifolds and stock cat converter mid pipe and the result was over 740 HP at the tire so that mammoth blower is no joke.
 
#14 ·
On a side note, I really cannot understand why some people butcher and hack up their street Terminator Cobra's with a turbo kit install that results in insanely high costs and tons of head aches when you can just simply bolt on a massive blower on your terminator Cobra and be done with it.
Massive blowers are fraught with their own set of problems and turbos make gobs more power on less boost. I'll take a 'butchered' turbo Cobra any day of the week, but I don't begrudge anyone for their choice of power adder.
 
#17 ·
Boy did I whip up a hornet's nest with my turbo system comments. Like I said earlier, what GodStang has done with his Terminator in bolting up a huge mammoth blower is outstanding and exactly what I would do If I had a Terminator Cobra. No question about it. At the end of day we all have our preferences when building a car and I'm a blower fan so I would never put a turbo kit on my mustang even if it was given to me at no cost.

Once again, nice work OP in bolting up that Kenne Bell Mammoth blower to your Terminator. For sure, the instant boost and diesel truck load of torque of the Mammoth will make for a super fun street car.
 
#20 ·
Godstang, love the build and am very excited to see your results with the 3.6 KB. The attention to detail and not cutting corners is top notch.
Not sure if I missed it or if it was in a different thread, but what are you gonna use for tuning? SCT?

What kinda ETA do you have for getting it running, tuned and on the dyno?
 
#21 ·
Right now the plan is to use the SCT 2 that tuned the old 2.8LC Behemoth. Car ran really good with that setup.

As far as ETA I have no clue. We where suppose to work all weekend on it but have been doing family things instead.

My main issue is how the heck I will cool this thing. I had a gallon tank and it did not cut it on the 2.8L.
 
#22 ·
I wish you a lot of luck. I researched this a ton when debating on what to do for more power when I had my KB 2.8 Mammoth. I was going to do a 3.2 but I didn't think it would be enough. I debated going to a 3.6 or Whipple 4.0 and everyone said I will break the crank. It wasn't if it would but when. The scary thing was that, after selling the blower, I decided to pull the engine as it was going to need different cams anyway for a turbo setup and I figured that I would ring and bearing it right away. Not only did I find a scored cylinder wall from an overheated piston but I also found that the snout on the crank was beat up pretty good. The pressure on the crank snout caused the crank sprocket to get tore up against the face of the front journal and that caused the balancer bolt to be loose. Luckily the factory pulley cage helped keep it together. The 2.8 was tearing up the crank snout. I'm glad that I didn't to to a bigger blower. Now, I have an automatic car with a loose converter so it was pretty violent in rpm swings. I wish you the absolute best of luck. Hopefully you don't have any issues
 
#24 ·
Make sure you double key the crank, use a good 03 Cobra style SFI balancer, good bolt (maybe even drill deeper into the crank), and use the factory pulley cage
 
#25 · (Edited)
To double key the crank you will need it to be out of the motor, Josh. At a bare minimum I would change the OEM Woodruff key to a 3/16" square tool steel or spring steel key. The OEM key is not only mild steel but also a woodruff key. Woodruff keys are used for indexing, not the type of power transmission necessary to drive a PD blower. The pic below is of an actual OEM Ford key for a Terminator;

Circuit component Rectangle Flooring Font Grass


The portion of the key in the red circle is where the damage begins. While anchored in the damper it has no corresponding ability to anchor in the crank because of its geometry. Modmotor dampers have an ID of 1.25 inches and a press fit length of 0.7 inches. That represents a press fit of 0.56 diameters using a woodruff key with unsupported ends to transmit 150+ HP. this is a formula for failure as many have already discovered.

A better solution is the replacement of the woodruff key with the 3/16" square cut tool steel or spring steel key and a change over from the woefully small class 10.9 12 mm OEM bolt to an ARP 9/16" 8740 steel stud. The description of that process is described in Crank Tech I and II in the TToC. The clamping load difference between the 12mm OEM bolt and the ARP stud is ~10,000 lbs of clamping force vs 24,000 lbs. More importantly the stud clamps everything together on the snout in a sandwich type arrangement while the bolt in the snout approach attempts to pull the snout off the front of the crank. One way you have a tensile and torsional loading the other just a torsional load.

While nothing is perfect, it is noteworthy that no one that has used the snout stud approach with a square 3/16 hardened steel key has yet broken the snout off their crank. The best solution is always the custom billet route with fully radiused fillets, a 1.400 diameter snout that is 0.700" longer than OEM for increased press fit diameters and a 5/8" ARP 2000 stud (when available). The clamping forces rise to something around ~34,000 lbs. The clamping diameters go to 1.0 on a 1.400" snout which starts to approach the wow category. The torquing job is also fairly impressive at 270 ft/lbs. Even the 9/16 8740 stud will work you at around 180 ft/lbs IIRC.

So far no other approach (other than the billet route) has worked as reliably.

Ed
 
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