Is my rear differential shot?

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Array SVT_Troy's Avatar
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    Default Is my rear differential shot?

    Well I just finished installing my new Viking DA shocks, H&R race springs and Gforce axles. Upon finishing I spun one tire and the other side did not spin at first. After playing with it both spun like they should but then I started second guessing the diff. After looking up an old thread by Rick (Senkak) I'm leaning towards just rebuilding my OEM diff. Basically I am not confident with the amount of resistance I have when spinning one wheel with the other on the ground, I dont have alot of resistance but do not know what is normal.

    I drained the oil and no metal so I'm assuming the gears are good, just the clutches are worn. I will find out forsure once I pull the diff.

    My car is a street car that I was building to attend road race track days but due to convenience I have been drag racing more often. With that said I think sticking with the OEM diff versus a trutrac or Torsen is the better option.


    As Ed would say I want to make sure I am reading the "Tea Leaves correctly!" Are these all the parts I need? Is there anything else I should consider?

    Ford Performance Traction - LOK Rebuild Kit w/ Carbon Discs (Use the alternating stack method and add one friction plate from my old setup)
    ARP 250-3004 stud kit
    ARP 300-8324 (X2) 12 pt nuts (3.250" length)
    Mark Williams 8.8 Billet steel main caps

    I am considering disassembling the diff and sending the housing and studs to MWE to have them install it. I just know shipping would be a pita.

    I currently have a Ford racing diff and think I read that Ed recommended to not torque the covers main cap supports. Is this accurate?

    Am I forgetting anything else?


    Troy
    Last edited by SVT_Troy; 01-29-2017 at 09:38 PM.

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  3. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by SVT_Troy View Post
    Well I just finished installing my new Viking DA shocks, H&R race springs and Gforce axles. Upon finishing I spun one tire and the other side did not spin at first. After playing with it both spun like they should but then I started second guessing the diff. After looking up an old thread by Rick (Senkak) I'm leaning towards just rebuilding my OEM diff. Basically I am not confident with the amount of resistance I have when spinning one wheel with the other on the ground, I dont have alot of resistance but do not know what is normal.

    I drained the oil and no metal so I'm assuming the gears are good, just the clutches are worn. I will find out forsure once I pull the diff.

    My car is a street car that I was building to attend road race track days but due to convenience I have been drag racing more often. With that said I think sticking with the OEM diff versus a trutrac or Torsen is the better option.


    As Ed would say I want to make sure I am reading the "Tea Leaves correctly!" Are these all the parts I need? Is there anything else I should consider?

    Ford Performance Traction - LOK Rebuild Kit w/ Carbon Discs (Use the alternating stack method and add one friction plate from my old setup)
    ARP 250-3004 stud kit
    ARP 300-8324 (X2) 12 pt nuts (3.250" length)
    Mark Williams 8.8 Billet steel main caps

    I am considering disassembling the diff and sending the housing and studs to MWE to have them install it. I just know shipping would be a pita.

    I currently have a Ford racing diff and think I read that Ed recommended to not torque the covers main cap supports. Is this accurate?

    Am I forgetting anything else?


    Troy

    I agree with your diagnosis Troy. I suspect you have worn out the friction clutches in the diff. The short way home is the rebuild kit you spec'd out above. The Torsen is a very nice diff and has taken quite a beating from a lot of guys and as John Cameron Swasey used to say, "It just keeps on ticking." That said when I bought my replacement diff I went the Wavetrac route because it had 2x the pinions in it that the Torsion had but most importantly it had a lifetime warranty even if you raced it! It also is not cheap running about 2x the Torsen pricing.

    I suspect the comment I made had to do with the FRPP HD rear cover and tigntening down the load bolts on the aluminum OEM diff bearing caps. IMO (It's only an opinion) it does not mitigate cap breakage and possibly encourages it by putting stress risers in the cap where the bolt foot contacts the cap. IIRC you are using steel caps on your housing, in which case I would say no additional reinforcements are necessary. If you are not, this might be a good time to call Mark Williams about those billet steel caps he sells. They are as close to bullet proof as you will get on an 8.8.


    Ed

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    Senior Member Array SVT_Troy's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot for the reply Ed. I will pass one the wavetrac for the time being. My mod money is alittle low. I've done too much since breaking the axle in November and she still isn't running.... if it breaks again I will go that route. I think I can get my current diff rebuilt for under $500 which will work.

    I do need a case spreader right? Any leads to a decent piece?

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    Someone built a home brew version of one a while back. I looked but didn't find it with a quick search. I would look on the net for a used piece for sale. New Rotunda pricing will bring tears to your eyes.


    Ed

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    Should not need a case spreader. You should be able to put new clutches in without removing the diff. Check out some you tube videos. Those always help me when I'm not sure about something.

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    Do I need or should i install a new Ring & Pinion Installation Kit? It replaces all the shims, seals and bearings.

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    If its not making noise or leaking from the pinion seal I would say no. If you are not familiar with setting up backlash and pinion depth to match the pattern that is worn in the gear. You will end up with a noisy/whining gear. If it was me I would just swap clutches out. Thats if you plan on keeping the stock diff. If your planning on a aftermarket diff. You might as well tear it down and start from scratch. Again, these are just my opinions. In the end it's your car. Do what makes you happy

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  10. #8
    Senior Member Array SVT_Troy's Avatar
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    I am planning on keeping the stock diff and swapping the clutch disc doing the alternate method add a disk and swapping to the MWE bearing caps. I have the ring & pinion kit already so i figured i would just replace the bearings since i have it and its out.

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    Senior Member Array smashedheadcat's Avatar
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    I know we're past it, but I want to second the wavetrac option. I went this route after eating up a spider gear in the eaton posi, and my goodness, is it a beauty. I know it is a very expensive option, but when a manufacturer has the confidence to say it has a lifetime warranty, even if you race it, I had to find a way to dig up the extra money.

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    Been there too with busted spider gears. Went to a spool after that. And rest was history........

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  13. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by SVT_Troy View Post
    I have the ring & pinion kit already so i figured i would just replace the bearings since i have it and its out.
    You're asking for trouble replacing bearings if they are not in need of replacement.

    If you're not changing the ring and pinion, leaving the differential in place is the best option. You can rebuild the trac-lok in place.

    You really can't change the bearings without re-shimming the entire setup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by driller View Post
    You're asking for trouble replacing bearings if they are not in need of replacement.

    If you're not changing the ring and pinion, leaving the differential in place is the best option. You can rebuild the trac-lok in place.

    You really can't change the bearings without re-shimming the entire setup.

    Ok thanks a lot. I have zero experience with differentials but I am about to dive in.

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    Hardest part of doing the clutches is spinning the spider gears back in. Which isn't really that hard. You will be fine. Diving into **** is how I learned.

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    I just looked up the wavetrac...... $1200 is not a price I'm ready to drop right now.... if/when my clutches or diff goes again I will re-evaluate though.

  17. #15

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    [QUOTE=smashedheadcat;2218226]I know we're past it, but I want to second the wavetrac option. I went this route after eating up a spider gear in the eaton posi, and my goodness, is it a beauty. I know it is a very expensive option, but when a manufacturer has the confidence to say it has a lifetime warranty, even if you race it, I had to find a way to dig up the extra money.




    Very nice looking diff there, Josh

    Any comments about how it feels to drive the car with the Wavetrac?


    Ed

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