Cobra engine removal how-to videos

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  1. #1

    Default Cobra engine removal how-to videos

    Hey everyone! I'm rebuilding my buddy's Cobra and making how-to videos in the process. Check them out!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFZVIkDmgY8

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Array oldmodman's Avatar
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    Watched all three. Very nicely done. Nice clear HD video.

    But I was waiting to see you remove the pulley support.
    Always interesting to see how different people go about it.
    My method of making it easier is to use PLENTY of heat on the center of the allen hole. The factory threadlocker seems to be epoxy and is a bear to break loose unless you get it so hot that it melts.

  4. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldmodman View Post
    Watched all three. Very nicely done. Nice clear HD video.

    But I was waiting to see you remove the pulley support.
    Always interesting to see how different people go about it.
    My method of making it easier is to use PLENTY of heat on the center of the allen hole. The factory threadlocker seems to be epoxy and is a bear to break loose unless you get it so hot that it melts.
    Yeah, unfortunately that's what I'm up against right now. I know hey are tough to get off, but didn't think about it when pulling the engine on such short notice. We'll have to see what I can come up with

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  6. #4
    Senior Member Array oldmodman's Avatar
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    Last one I removed the engine was lying on an old tire.
    I made a steel strap to hold the clutch flywheel from turning. Then I got out my little propane torch and heated the allen socket to 400 degrees. It hardly took any force to break it free. I'm sure you know that it is reveres threaded. So turn it right to remove it.
    A lot of people have had the crappy Sear sockets snap right off. So here is what I found that seem to be bulletproof. It a one piece forged too.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  7. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldmodman View Post
    Last one I removed the engine was lying on an old tire.
    I made a steel strap to hold the clutch flywheel from turning. Then I got out my little propane torch and heated the allen socket to 400 degrees. It hardly took any force to break it free. I'm sure you know that it is reveres threaded. So turn it right to remove it.
    A lot of people have had the crappy Sear sockets snap right off. So here is what I found that seem to be bulletproof. It a one piece forged too.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Thanks! Just ordered it. I appreciate it

  8. #6

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    The next video is up! Follow the rebuild!

    https://youtu.be/1JYtqYm8v3U

  9. #7
    Senior Member Array soap's Avatar
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    Cool videos, certainly will help someone out! FYI, the sensors at the 7 minute mark of video #3 are capacitors that filter out noise from the COP's. 03-04 Cobra's do not have knock sensors.

    --Joe

  10. #8

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    mine was filmed for no reason.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE8VdQ4_oz8 entire motor together.... chain on one hole on front of block and chain on top hole where bellhousing goes... flawless... no worries... just put soft rags as chain goes across blower... it does not twist tweak or mess with blower.. enjoy.

  11. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldmodman View Post
    Watched all three. Very nicely done. Nice clear HD video.

    But I was waiting to see you remove the pulley support.
    Always interesting to see how different people go about it.
    My method of making it easier is to use PLENTY of heat on the center of the allen hole. The factory threadlocker seems to be epoxy and is a bear to break loose unless you get it so hot that it melts.
    There is a special OTC tool that holds the flywheel solidly. With no play in it, the monster pulley is much easier to break loose.

    Pic from my build thread in this post:

    https://www.modularfords.com/threads/...=1#post2157569

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