Mustang and Ford Performance Forums banner

Waste gated Novi 2000 setup/build-thread

17K views 73 replies 9 participants last post by  96slowbra 
#1 · (Edited)
Looking for opinions on my blower setup. This is my first endeavor in the boosted life and I know most of you guys have been living it for years now.
Basic rundown of the setup:

  • 96 cobra forged teksid with ~10.5:1 comp

  • Hand ported/cleaned up 99 conti heads with 5 angle valve job, btr springs and fully threaded inserts
  • 96 cobra cams installed @ 114/114 centerlines
  • Ported C lower with b upper
  • T56 with 26 spline rxt
  • 4.10 final gears(little steep for current goals but they've been in the car for years)
  • Car put down 323/327 std. With

I am in the beginning stages of installing the Novi 2000 on the car, currently in mockup fitting the blower head unit and aligning pulleys. Ill be pulling the blower off and running with the modified cooling system and pulleys for the rest of the year to address any issues. Final install with fmic will be this winter. The plan is to spin the blower near max rpm(paxton's advertised 55k rpm) at 7,000 rpm motor speed and run it wastegated.

Current parts I have/are installed:

  • Novi 2000 headunit and brackets, making custom aluminum standoff spacers for the 8 rib spacing.
  • CX Racing intercooler kit with 24x12x3 core size (https://www.cxracing.com/intercooler-kit/intercooler-kit-ford/intercooler-kit-ford-mustang-94-04/KIT-MSTG-9604-46SC-IC0022-BOV-OC) Upgraded to the treadston tr1245 intercooler
  • IW 10% overdrive dampner
  • Modified stock crossover, thermostat in upper hose and gt lower hose. Cap on radiator going to overflow.
  • VMP HPX maf and 3" housing(going blow thru with intercooler install)
  • Innovate lc-2, planning on a VEI systems clock housing gauge
  • 80lb injectors
  • Walbro 465 lph pump with stock lines
  • 8 rib f150 ac/power steering/alt pulleys installed
  • Analog boost gauge and digital fuel gauge
Things still needed

  • 8 rib blower pulley, planned on a 3.25" pulley should produce just over 55k at redline, if I even take it there is undecided but it gives me room. Custom 3.25" 8 rib pulley bought from asp racing
  • AFR guage (leaning towards VEI systems dash clock replacement). Went with the vei dash clock replacement and a Innovate lc2 wideband
  • Blowoff valve (size brand preference?) Went cheap route with a tial knockoff 50mm
  • Wastegate (size brand preference?) Went cheap route with a turbosmart 50mm knockoff
  • Manual boost controller
I plan on running one tune with 93 at whatever power level I can manage without detonation. In the future after all the bugs are worked out i'd like to upgrade the fuel lines/rails to run e85 and up the boost a bit more running two tunes and an eboost 2 or something similar to control boost. e85 station opened up down the street from my house so I will likely be going e85 and max out the 80lb injectors at whatever power lever that is with a little room for cushion

My main questions currently are:

  • Does anyone see any issues with my current plan or parts selection?
  • I know i'm going to be venting a ton of air at this pulley combo and likely lower boost with only 93 fuel, what size blow off valve and wastegate do i need to be looking at to flow that much. I was planning a race part solutions 50mm wastegate and bov
  • How much is this intercooler going to hurt me flowing this much? What upgrades would you recommend?

    Current state of the car, don't mind the mangled inlet tube. Came with the blower, just using it to check hood clearance.
    20170902_182326 by tlaster1429, on Flickr
 
See less See more
1
#3 ·
That is another reason I am wanting to run it wastegated with a manual boost controller. I am not really sure what the motor will handle boost wise and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of changing pulleys and belts out on the dyno. I was hoping to make around 12-13lbs and vent the rest.
 
#4 ·
These engines in a condition similar to yours can easily 'handle' boost is the high twenties.

What did you want to accomplish when you decided to supercharge the engine?

Better bottom end,
Better midrange,
Better top end,
Something else.

How did you decide upon your supercharger choice, compression, cams and cam phasing?


Ed
 
#5 ·
Supercharger choice was decided by the used market. I knew I wanted something bigger than your run of the mill s trim but wasn't in a hurry to buy. A deal popped up on this novi 2000 with a few extra parts for a price I thought was not worth passing up.

Cam choice was decided by the wallet. I already had the 96 cams from the rebuild I did before the c head swap. The cams were degreed to 114/114 based on conversations with Todd and my previous setup of a 175 wet shot that never actually ended up being ran on this motor. I figured i can always re-degree the cams later if need

I gaped the rings with boost of around 20 lbs in mind at some point down the road. I forget the actual number, I have it in my notes somewhere, but I believe it was around .026 top and .025 bottom.

I don't race in any classes or even regularly go to the track with the car so power goals aren't really set in stone. I just enjoy wrenching on the car and driving it. In my mind this was the next logical progression of things to do with the car. The idea behind a centri was a more usable torque curve on the street vs a p.d. blower and not as many headaches as a turbo setup.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Supercharger choice was decided by the used market. I knew I wanted something bigger than your run of the mill s trim but wasn't in a hurry to buy. A deal popped up on this novi 2000 with a few extra parts for a price I thought was not worth passing up.
I understand.

Cam choice was decided by the wallet. I already had the 96 cams from the rebuild I did before the c head swap. The cams were degreed to 114/114 based on conversations with Todd and my previous setup of a 175 wet shot that never actually ended up being ran on this motor. I figured I can always re-degree the cams later if need[ed].
The 96/98 cams are excellent cams, especially for the kind of use you are anticipating.

114/114 is factory OEM cam phasing. For street use and in particular if I was after an engine that was responsive to driver throttle positioning commands I would advance the cams substantially over the 114 OEM phasing. While Todd and I agree on many things we hold separate opinions on others. He may not provide you the same encouragement to advance the cams that I would.

I gaped the rings with boost of around 20 lbs in mind at some point down the road. I forget the actual number, I have it in my notes somewhere, but I believe it was around .026 top and .025 bottom.
Whoever coached you on the rings did you no damage. Those are good, safe numbers.

I don't race in any classes or even regularly go to the track with the car so power goals aren't really set in stone. I just enjoy wrenching on the car and driving it. In my mind this was the next logical progression of things to do with the car. The idea behind a centri was a more usable torque curve on the street vs a p.d. blower and not as many headaches as a turbo setup.
For low speed throttle response, the PD blowers own the world. Centri's are next but boost (and therefore torque) does not typically begin to rise rapidly until after about 3000 / 3500 rpm. Torque increases tend to mimic the rise in boost. Both Centris and Turbos do not have the instantaneous boost that the PD family of blowers has. Of the two, Centri's can be easier to work with than Turbos because of their positive drive off the crank snout.

If you have the opportunity to drive a Tesla the first thing you will notice is an unmistakable and immediate response to any movement of the accelerator pedal. Once you become familiar with it you profoundly miss it in any other vehicle you drive - except a car like a PD blown Modular Mustang. There is nothing even remotely close to the instantaneous vehicle response to even very small movements of the gas pedal. Turbos and Centris will not do this. A Centri will not feel like a Turbo but it will also not feel like a PD blown vehicle.

Centri's work the crank snout and drive belt heavily. I would strongly recommend you look in the Terminator Table of Contents (TToC) sticky at the top of the 03/04 SVT Cobra Forum and check out the Crank Tech I and Crank Tech II threads. They will show you how to do the stud. The OEM crank snouts are tender and break from the kinds of loading belt driven superchargers provide. While nothing is perfect this fix is the cheapest and best fix out there for the Modmotor crank snout breakage problem short of a billet crank.

Lastly, be sure to get a J&S Vampire (Google it). The Vampire is the only detonation detection and prevention device available anywhere today. It is about three decades old and it will detect detonation on a cylinder by cylinder basis in real time, as the engine runs and pull timing for that one detonating cylinder only, before the next ignition event. It does this for all eight cylinders, individually, in real time as the engine runs.

In addition to pulling timing on a cylinder by cylinder basis it will incrementally increase the timing for each detonating cylinder until it hears the sonic signature of detonation again. When it does it backs the timing off to the last known safe timing threshold. There is simply nothing in the market that even begins to approach this level of sophistication. If you have a supercharged engine that you fuel from a station and drive on the street then this is a must have.

Ed
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the run down Ed. I have spent a significant amount of time on this site as well as talking to some very knowledgeable people in regards to engine building. I was lucky enough that my former employer produced some of the best engine refinishing equipment in the industry that they allowed me full access to. My motor also lost a piston skirt in a timely manner as I only worked there for 3 short years. I took 150+ photos of the build process with the intention of posting a build thread at some point. A little over 2 years after the first startup and I have all but given up on it. The album still has some decent engine porn if your into that sort of thing, http://s17.photobucket.com/user/400exr/library/1996 cobra engine

I am aware of the crank snout issue and was hoping the larger damper would allow me to run a larger blower pulley and reduce the amount of tension required to eliminate belt slip. I unfortunately did not take the initiative to stud the snout while the motor was out. At the time I was content with just running the nitrous. We all know how that story goes though. I did take the time to upgrade the chain guide dowels as well as install new chains and cobra engineering secondary tensioner.

The J&S Vampire is an incredibly valuable product that I have been eyeballing for some time now. I've read through the install thread on this site a few times now.It is still on the list of items I would like to purchase. It is one of those things, with a built motor, that you can't afford not to have. With the planned downtime this winter for full supercharger install I will certainly have time to do the install.
 
#8 ·
Depending on what RPM you lay into it, you'll see instant boost, especially with the wastegated setup. It doesn't really matter too much when you have 4.10 gears however.

Looking at your combo, I don't see anything I'd add that Ed didn't mention.

You asked a few questions though:

Blowoff valve (size brand preference?) : Any of them will work. You basically want to pick the one that makes the sound you like. Keep in mind, it won't sound like a turbo car.
Wastegate (size brand preference?) : I run a twin turbo car and use twin 38mm tial wastegates. I've had them for 12 years and never had an issue with them. I don't know how much air you are going to bypass, but I would pick the smallest one that would get the job done. I'm afraid the 50mm would be too big, but then again, maybe it wouldn't.
Manual boost controller: Any of these will work. An electric would be better, as it would double as a boost gauge, and also give you a few boost set points.
 
#9 ·
Most people assume that its only possible to enjoy instant boost on a car that has a positive displacement blower. However on my 2001 Cobra with centrifugal blower, I see instant boost. The path to instant boost comes from eliminating the belt slip and spinning the blower as early and fast as possible by using an 8 rib set up, billet belt tensioner and an overdrive damper.

High compression and using a heavier than stock billet steel flywheel are other tricks on can use to increase the engine response down low on a street car.
 
#10 ·
Most people assume that its only possible to enjoy instant boost on a car that has a positive displacement blower. However on my 2001 Cobra with centrifugal blower, I see instant boost. The path to instant boost comes from eliminating the belt slip and spinning the blower as early and fast as possible by using an 8 rib set up, billet belt tensioner and an overdrive damper.

High compression and using a heavier than stock billet steel flywheel are other tricks on can use to increase the engine response down low on a street car.
You might see instant boost with a centri, but you won't see peak boost until much later in the rpm band (unless you run a wastegate type setup). Centri's are designed to give a linear boost curve, unlike a PD blower that sees near instant / peak boost down low. I see boost at around 2K rpm, but I don't see peak boost until my shift point.
 
#11 ·
The streetability combined with ease of sourcing parts for install was what drew me to a centri from the get go. Having started with the 96 platform, short of buying a complete long block from a parted 03/04 would have made a pd blower install a nightmare. That being said I also didn't what the torque down low to be anemic so I thought running it wastegated may help that a good amount. I realize from 1-3k rpm may still lag a little but that rpm range is rarely used aside from starts.

Test drove the car with the new cooling system last night. GT lower hose, radiator cap on radiator, meziere inline stat upper hose with a 180° stat and modified stock crossover to work with the placement of the blower. Temps were lower and more consistent than I seem to remember with the stock setup. Unfortunately the car now has a mean stumble/misfire and neglected to throw a code to narrow my search for the cause. Only changes from before are the cooling system, 10% od dampner and stock water pump pulley. I wanted to test belt alignment of the 8 rib pulleys before supercharger install as well which is the reason for the dampner being on already.

I'm going to pull plugs and coils tonight to inspect everything. I suspect it is one of the coils slowly dying on me, I have no idea what mileage or abuse they have seen. I have another set I believe to be lower mileage that I may just swap in if i don't find anything. Hoping i can get it sorted out tonight I had planned on taking it to the streetcar takeover meetup in St.louis friday night. If not the trusty cherokee dd will have to be the oddball in the parking lot.
 
#12 ·
Your thoughts about a coil or perhaps compromised wiring like a poor connection at one of the connectors/plugs might be the bad guy giving you grief, Tommy.

When you said,

I realize from 1-3k rpm may still lag a little but that rpm range is rarely used aside from starts.
I was confused. Did you mean that you normally drive your car over 3000 rpm in daily driving on the street or did you mistype and mean to say you normally drive your car between 1000 and 3000 rpm on the street except for drag racing starts?

Ed
 
#13 ·
I guess I worded that a little odd. Daily driving is usually under 3000 rpm aside from the spirited hop on a highway or desolate road. My intent of that comment was on the strip that range isn't used much at all aside from the start. I also have a n2mb wot box installed that I will be able to tweak once everything is installed to try and build a little boost off the line and hopefully not lose as much between shifts.
 
#16 ·
Misfire fixed. Apparently the coil grounding to the head through the boot is a bad thing. Kind of strange that the other 7 boots are in perfect shape.
20170921_163857 by tlaster1429, on Flickr

Looks like a sweet build but I gotta ask whats up with that dent in the power pipe?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
I bought everything used and it came with that elbow as well as another power pipe that puts the filter in the fender. Both already had the dents in them from the previous owner. My guess is hood clearance as it is pretty tight even with the dent in it. I am going to do my best to smooth the other one out as much as i can before everything gets its final coat of paint.
 
#17 ·
I gotcha. Wasn't bashing or anything. I was just looking over your setup and thinking how clean it looked. Then I noticed the dent and could not quit looking at it. Lol. [emoji106]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
Everything seems to be kosher as far as cooling system mods and belt alignment goes. Currently just running a 6 rib belt until i get the blower on.
20170927_180248 by tlaster1429, on Flickr
Hose route will be under the blower back up to the crossover
20170927_180227 by tlaster1429, on Flickr

Ed,
Are you aware of anyone who has ran the J&S Vampire in combination with the c.o.p. conversion on the earlier coil pack cars? Being that the oem spark is firing 2 cylinders at once would the system be able to distinguish which cylinder is detonating or just pull timing on both cylinder firing at the time. I see that they offer instructions for the 96-98 cars on their website so I know the wiring would not change due to the c.o.p. swap but would performance?
 
#20 ·
The firing of two cylinders simultaneously creates a problem for the primary benefit of the Vampire — individual cylinder detonation control. What I would do is send an email to John at J&S and listen to what he says.


Ed
 
#21 ·
The firing of two cylinders simultaneously creates a problem for the primary benefit of the Vampire - individual cylinder detonation control. What I would do is send an email to John at J&S and listen to what he says.

Ed
Ed, since the subject was brought up, I would like to hear your explanation of the wasted spark tech.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
#22 · (Edited)
The Waste Spark ignition method was an early attempt to provide computer controlled ignition in vehicles with early generation ECU's, Ken. The problem the design engineers were attempting to work around was the limited cpu power available in early OEM ECU's. The limited cpu power had to simultaneously handle ignition, injectors, vehicle accessories and most importantly EPA mandated emission levels. BTW for the same reason we had waste spark ignition systems we also had batch fire fuel injection so the ECU only had to do a single pulse width calculation and a single injector firing calculation.

As ECU power came up the injectors became sequential firing and we went to individual COP style ignitions. Even with the increased CPU speed in say an EEC-V CPU it is not uncommon to find the CPU 'misses' or is a smidgen tardy in calculating these events above 7000 rpm or in an engine that rpms quickly. It is possible to shut down a lot of the 'other stuff' Ford has asked the ECU to do and if our tune is not set to run the ECU at the highest clock speed we can alter that in our tunes and pick up a smidgen of head room.

By and large however, there is about as much reason to run wasted spark ignition systems today as there is to switch back to batch fire injectors. Wherever they exist you must swap out the ECU for a later generation CPU if you intend to go the COP route. I would recommend something from 2007 or later. Best approach however is to go aftermarket.

Usually when you look at the aftermarket systems the heavy weight champs like Motec, Haltech, BigStuff-3 will do anything you want and do it up to 10,000 rpm and beyond. The problem invariably is the pricing. Complete systems will end up between $4K and $5K unless of course it is Motec. Motec has a qualifying question they ask prior to sale. They want to know if you own your own home. :)

There is however an excellent alternative available today that will give you the entire CPU and wiring harness for $1,495, it is MS3Pro-Ultimate <= clickable. You take your sensor and injector connectors off your existing OEM harness and put them on the ends of the wiring harness that came with the ECU and you're done buying stuff unless you want to add EGT sensors, dual widebands (an excellent idea) etc. A real nice feature is the ECU can be calibrated to your existing sensors so you do not have to buy special new sensors from the EFI manufacturer.

Originating in 1993, The MegaSquirt software is among the oldest and most mature of any system out there today and it offers probably 95% or more of the features that the top end Motec and Haltech systems do. The MS3Pro system also comes with a Lifetime Warranty! This stuff is definitely worth a look see especially if you are bumping into the ceiling with the OEM EEC-V ECU.

BTW with an aftermarket ECU you can then use the LS2 Truck coils with about 5X the spark energy of the OEM COPs. Brett Watson did an excellent writeup on implementing the coils in a very clean fashion. You can see what he did over here =>LS2 Truck Coils

Ed
 
#23 ·
Apparently the combination of over spinning the water pump with the 10% lower and old hoses created a situation that the upper hose did not like. The hose between the inline theromostat and the crossover burst coming home at about 1 am Saturday night/ Sunday morning. It split close to the crossover with close to a 3" split. Luckily I had just left a friends place who regularly drifts his 240 so he had a bunch of water and antifreeze laying around and came to give me a hand. Since I had the hoses routed around the blower which is not yet mounted I was able cut the bad section out, rotate the hose at the radiator and reattach and the crossover. I am planning on replacing the rad. to stat with a silicone 90 degree hose and the stat to crossover with a gates vulco flex hose to aid in going around the blower. The lower hose is a new gt unit so it should negate any future issues with over pressurizing. I lost about a gallon of coolant because I had to get off the highway to a side street to safely work on it. Washing the car Sunday morning turned the driveway green and the car still smells like antifreeze which is nice.
 
#24 ·
Well I replaced the busted hose with a gates flex hose. Thought all was good on the first drive yesterday but the hose came off the crossover overtaking a car where the road merged from 2 lanes down to 1. After getting rescued with some coolant and a new hose clamp It seemed good to go again. Before taking off we were checking for leaks and and noticed blipping the throttle was making the hose between the crossover and thermostat swell a decent amount for a new hose.

Here are pictures of the setup currently. The radiator is an aftermarket with cap provisions. I have the cap overflow ran to a overflow tank with port on the bottom to allow it to purge if needed but draw back through the bottom when it cools. Stock crossover was cut and raised 2" and one of the ports capped. Crossover goes to a meziere inline thermostat housing, thermostat has 3 3/16" holes drilled in it for a bypass and then to the upper radiator hose location. Radiator output goes through a gt hose with a inline drain replacing the original "t" fitting and then to the gt oil filter adapter. Water pump is of the stock variety with a stock pulley and the 10% overdrive dampner.
20180430_202301 by tlaster1429, on Flickr
Disregard the zipties, once the intercooler piping is installed im going to create a mount for the hose
20180430_202305 by tlaster1429, on Flickr
Lower gt hose I took the t out of an installed an inline drain
20180430_202331 by tlaster1429, on Flickr
Gt oil filter housing to gt hose
20180430_202349 by tlaster1429, on Flickr
Stock crossover raised about 2" to clear the blower
20180430_202433 by tlaster1429, on Flickr
I thought the hose pressurizing could have been due to a head gasket issue but pulling the plugs and looking at the carbon buildup on the pistons says otherwise. It also shows no sign of coolant usage or smoking.
Checked the plugs for verification.
20180430_202110 by tlaster1429, on Flickr

My only conclusion is that the overdrive pulley with the stock diameter water pump pulley is flowing to much for the bypass holes and building pressure pre thermostat. The hose after the stat housing didn't seem to have a swelling issue like the flex hose did.
 
#25 ·
This project hasn't been completely forgot about, things certainly aren't moving quickly however. I have made some decent progress in fabbing up intercooler pipes and intercooler as well as some of the oil feeds and crank vent lines. I have taken a ton of pictures but am not sure where I should host them since everyone with 3rd party hosting capabilities is charging an arm and leg for premium memberships.

Ed,
After digging into the details of my build and what my end goal is I started looking more seriously at the Megasquirt systems. I wanted to be able to switch between 93 and e85 as well as be able to adjust the boost on the fly with the wastegate. To accomplish that on the stock PCM I was looking at ~$500 for the eBoost 2 plus another minimum $500 for dyno and tuning time and that's if everything went smoothly at the tuners. This would still leave me with a flip switch and boost levels I would have to manually adjust.

With the MS I would gain these functionalities plus the addition of knock detection, larger LS2 truck coils, gratification of tuning it myself, and a host of other features should I choose to implement them. I regrettably did not start researching the MS offerings when you suggested it nearly a year ago so I am slightly behind the gun. From my research so far I think my setup would be appropriate for a MS3 with a few additions such as knock control and the MS3x expansion. This would get me in the door under $1000 or roughly what I would have invested in a boost controller and custom tunes. Then the next step would be to the MS3Pro EVo which would gain me a slew of other options. I am not sure I will ever use the extra functionality of the Ultimate in this car.

It looks like going with the MS3Pro evo would cost ~$300 over what I would have in an MS3x with required addons. This would also save me hours of assembly and come with their lifetime warranty. Putting this all together looks like the MS3Pro Evo starts to look like a no brainer in terms of engine management.

I know I still have a lot of research to do on this and the car still has a while before it is mechanically buttoned up but this will be the largest electrical undertaking I have attempted to date. So anyone that can give any pointers or tips on how to make this as stress free as possible would be greatly appreciated.
 
#27 ·
So anyone that can give any pointers or tips on how to make this as stress free as possible would be greatly appreciated.
Best pointer I can give you is to skip the MS3 and go with a Holley plug n play EFI. You could do everything you need with with the 550-617N system. Having everything integrated into one box makes everything so much easier IMO.

If you are on Facebook, join the Holley group that Swerve started. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1728023557521559/
 
#26 · (Edited)
You are reading the tea leaves exactly correct, Tommy. Although the EVO version would add to the price tag, you pick up the factory manufactured and lifetime warranty attributes. I have known several guys who had Haltech and Motec units, which are top shelf items and they, out of pure happen stance, found them selves in positions where a Lifetime Warranty would have been welcome — especially at Haltech and Motec price points. The Ultimate version of the MS3Pro essentially adds an easier I/O expansion path if you later decided you wanted EGT sensors yada yada.

It is not my intention to be dismissive with the yada yada commentary but if you are fairly confident the build will not expand to include additional data acquisition down the road, then the additional I/O capabilities of the Ultimate version is money that doesn't need to be spent. On the other hand if you suspect you will be enhancing the electronics and data acquisition down the road then the cost of the Ultimate upgrade at the front end is well worth it.

Engine control electronics tend to be a lot like modding the actual engine. The more we learn the more we want to explore and play. If you already have the foundation for that exploration in place it is still a bridge to cross but, importantly, it is not a bridge too far. The MegaSquirt add on list is impressively large. The Ultimate version might just be worth a second look ...



Ed
 
#28 ·
I've been wanting to pull the entire harness for a little while anyway to pull out some of the wires from egr , sai, and a few other things that have been deleted. So doing the wiring for the MS3Pro isn't what i'm most hesitant about, I think I can struggle through most of it and will be able to clean up the wiring a bit in the process. The tuning portion is whats most foreign to me. From everything I have read the Holley would make that portion a lot easier but I am not sure the cost difference is worth it for me. I am not afraid to learn how to tune even if the learning curve is a bit steep. I'm still weight my options but I am heavily leaning towards the MS3Pro Evo or Ultimate at this point.

Edit: Also what is everyone using for photo hosting now that photobucket and flickr are charging an arm and leg for third party hosting and any sort of real storage options.
 
#29 ·
I think I understand where your head is at in terms of price vs capabilities, Tommy. Just in case you missed it there is a fairly impressive self tuning logic component integrated into the Tuner Studio software used to operate the MS3Pro units, see below;

Hair Font Terrestrial plant Paper Number


Holley offers a good system, Haltech offers a better one and Motec is, well Motec. Almost all third party systems place a wiring harness burden of one type or another on you. That is a one time tax. The ongoing tax is the breadth and scope of capabilities. For a first timer the self tuning benefit will appear to loom big on the horizon. Follow the Ms3Pro manual guidelines, use their built in self tuning capability to get you out of the blocks, visit the support website if necessary and you will do quite well.

If you are looking for something that can remove a lot of the hands on aspect in the conversion phase to one of these systems, the Holley system is a great alternative. You will pay a price for the benefit. Down the road, again depending on how curious you are / become the depth of the MS3 tuning options could become increasingly important to you. At that point you can always convert to something offering those options or you could soldier on. The decision in the end is a personal one that only you are qualified to make.

Ed
 
#30 ·
Took the plunge this morning. Local shop was selling a used setup with the sensors and plugs required for a modular setup. I'll be switching a few things around to fit my needs better but I think this was the right direction to go


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#32 ·
Got the ls2 coils mocked up over the weekend. Pretty happy with the outcome. Debating how I want to wire it all up now. Thinking about dropping the motor to run all the new wires I'll have. I cut up a few factory harnesses at the junkyard over the weekend so I could add pins to the factory connectors to make it a clean swap.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#33 ·
We had another member and I can't remember who anymore, either Redstanger or UltraSpeed, who did the same coil conversion, the same way (through the coil covers) and it worked out excellent for him. I am sure you will have a similar experience, Tommy. The through the coil cover approach eliminates the usual how do I go about mounting these things challenge.


Ed
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top