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Thread: Holley hp part list help
10-02-2017, 08:45 PM #1
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
Holley hp part list help
Hey guys. Need some help gathering up what I need in total to run a Holley system. I emailed Holley and asked them if the HP 550-617N would have enough inputs/outputs for my needs. I want they system to runs my cooling fans, 1 stage nitrous, dual knock sensors, and a.c. system. Holley said the HP system would work for me. He said he would send me a list of all parts needed to run what I want and said 550-617N HP system, x2 554-102 pressure transducers, and 554-107 map sensor was all I needed with no mention of knock sensors or additional harness. From what I have been reading Ill need to add a Holley 558-400 J1A/B aux harness for the fans and the 554-111 relay for the nitrous. I'm just getting confused on what all add ons I need to fully run this system and any help would be grateful.
So far I think I need
Holley HP system 550-617N
x2 0-100 psi pressure transducers (Looking at Autex transducers as the Holley's are expensive)
Holley J1A/B harness 558-400 (For fan Control)
Holley nitrous harness 554-111 (For nitrous control. Also could a high amperage solid state relay work in place of this harness for the pwm nitrous control?)
Holley map sensor 554-107 (been looking at gm 3bar map sensor 12223861 instead of the Holley unit)
x2 Gm knock sensors 10456288 (anybody else have input on good knock sensor setup for the Holley)
As for the a.c. hook up I'm not sure what I need for this. (any input for this would be helpful. I know it'll have to bump the idle and turn the fans on somehow.)
Again, thanks for the help guys.
10-03-2017, 07:34 AM #2
Join the Holley Mod Motor Group on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1728023557521559/
You can use the China eBay pressure transducers, I've been using them for over a year with zero issue. Read the pinned post in the group above on which ones to get.
What fuel are you planning to use? If you have a teksid, you can just use OEM knock sensors.
10-03-2017, 07:58 AM #3
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
I am using a teksid block but the original sensor bosses have been ground already. So my sensor locations will be on the side of the block. But I didn't think about using the ford knock sensors.
For fuel it will be on e85.
2 main reasons for switch to a standalone is engine protection and increased rpm potential.
Thanks for the help badcobra.
10-03-2017, 08:05 AM #4
I wouldn't bother with knock sensors on e85.
I run the Holley EFI system and love it. Been beating the living snot out of my car with new engine and Holley EFI for the last year, 5000 miles and 30lbs boost at over 1000whp with absolutely no issue. It's a fantastic system, easy to install and tune.
10-03-2017, 08:21 AM #5
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
Build is teksid block, 12to1 gibtec, Molnar rods, mild head work, Pac springs, studded factory crank, ati balancer setup, king bearings, arp studs, 2.3 tvs, nitrous and talked to Todd about custom cams. Trying to work this standone stuff out before order cams from him. We talked and he said I should try and peak the engine around 7500 or so for my setup and goals.
Thanks again badcobra for the help. Appreciate it.
10-03-2017, 09:04 AM #6
You can build some safety's into the Holley tune of your choosing, just an FYI. Certainly if knock sensors make you more comfortable, you can go that route as well. Definitely going the right route on your build! I am about to order cams from Todd as well!
FYI, here is my parts list.
Holley HP EFI 4V 550-617N
Holley Digital Dash 553-106 (Steinman Performance makes a nice cluster insert to hold the display in the stock location)
Holley GPS module 554-140
Holley J1 A/B Harness 558-400
Holley 160lb Injectors 522-168
Qty 2 Ebay 100psi Pressure Transducers
Motorcraft screw in air temp sensor DY-1159
Holley 3.5 Bar Map Sensor 554-134 (screws into Vacuum block)
10-03-2017, 12:24 PM #7
Stuntstere, I presume you are running turbos at that boost level. FWIW ethanol and methanol both have stunningly high detonation thresholds. Methanol is very consistent in its performance as long as you don't let it absorb moisture from the air. While ethanol has a similar moisture grabbing issue it is usually pretty easy to manage as long as you keep the tank capped and the empty space above the ethanol in the tank to a minimum.
If you are not cautious, where ethanol will throw you a curve ball is the actual ethanol content. Unless you buy from a race fuel supplier like Rocket or VP, the DOE allows the ethanol sold at the pump to vary widely and can go as low as 51% and as high as 83% but usually ranges between the low 70's to somewhere in the mid to high 70's because of a variety of blending considerations including additives.
There is an excellent booklet published by DOE on ethanol based automotive fuels. They typically publish the book every 5 years. The previous two issues were published in 2008 and then 2013. The current issue came out two years early in 2016. The book is Handbook for Handling, Storing, and Dispensing E85 and Other Ethanol-Gasoline Blends. The document is available on the afdc energy.gov website. Click the doc title above if you want a copy and it will take you to a downloadable pdf version of the document.
The most challenging issue you will have to work with at the boost and compression ratio you are contemplating is the actual percentage of ethanol present in the fuel you purchase. The DOE doc will provide guidance for seasonal changes but in the end you will need to be the % policeman for your engine. As I am sure you recognize lower ethanol content initially will bring on incipient detonation and later devastating detonation.
There are a number of testing tools available. Sadly they all are volumetric based tools. In order to accurately know the ethanol content you need to do a gravimetric measurement. That means a thermometer, hydrometer and a hydrometer jar for measuring the specific gravity of the fuel, which is the only way to actually know the % ethanol. For a street application, while 12:1 is absolutely doable with E85, you have to know what you actually have in the tank to make appropriate corrections to your tune. A lower compression ratio and/or lower boost would provide you increased wiggle room in your tune and engine operation.
Best protection however is careful measurement of the fuel's ethanol content and diligent selection of your retail distribution points. From the distribution point of view you want high volume resellers that frequently refill their inventories. When ethanol sits underground in half empty tanks it can leach a surprising amount of water out of the ambient air which enters the underground tank through the tank's vent to atmosphere. At lower boost, compression and power levels the need to be as diligent diminishes somewhat but not entirely. At your power level a bad tank of fuel can be an impressively costly experience.
Last edited by eschaider; 10-04-2017 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Spelling & Grammar
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