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new rotating assy arriving tomorrow

5K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  Mod Mustang Racing 
#1 ·
well i got the email, it will be here tomorrow. rather than mess around with polishing the crank, new pistons and rods were needed too. i went with the 1000hp package with the pistons coated and crank balanced by them. this all shipping from MMR. hope to have the car back together by end of next month. been thinking of doing a K member but don't want to go coil over. any good suggestions? and will this make engine re installation easier?
 
#2 ·
Many of the aftermarket k-members allow you bolt up the OEM a-arms so you can run a conventional spring. If that doesn't tickle your fancy, many after market a-arms can be provisioned in some capacity with a spring perch that will allow you to use a stock-style spring.
 
#3 ·
I hope you didn't purchase the janky 4.75 stroker kit with the make shift coyote crank setup and instead got the 5.0.

AJE works with factory arms and I've liked them.

A tube k makes moving hands around a bit easier, if you have headers it's much easier.

Lastly, if your machine shop can get you running in a month that's impressive.
 
#7 ·
the motor has been there since i placed my order, and has been torn down waiting on parts, so it just has to be put together. didnt think 4-6 weeks was and unrealistic time frame to put it together?

- - - Updated - - -

thanks for the reply, a guy i used to work with now works at Steeda in pompano beach, FL. i might be able to get a deal from them.
after reading your link. i read the part about convertibles. i have one. what does this mean no K-member for verts? or just eliminate the 4 point brace? which does not thrill me. any other options?
 
#4 ·
You aren't going to go wrong with the Steeda K-member: no need for coil-over's, aftermarket A-arms, oil filter relocation, etc. Have had mine for 3+ years and love it. They actually stopped production, but as I spread the word about it, a GB went together and they brought it back. You just missed holiday pricing, but it's still worth every penny.

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/chassis & steering.htm#Steeda_K-member

Plenty of pics in the build thread as well...

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/236857-Aluminator-Gibtec-Build
 
#11 ·
If you think using shims that can easily and HAVE easily failed is not "janky" then I do not know by what definition you define janky. The only person to successfully use a coyote crank without using a terrible shim system is Mike Schill.

Also, you didn't "call me out". MMR has a long history of terrible employees. Mark seemed to try his best at times but for whatever reason the guy can not staff a team that isn't full of lazy and rude people. You can source parts from them but the 4.75 is a money grab using the cheap coyote crank in the cheapest way possible instead of using a proper crank or correctly machining the crank. This issue has been discussed at length by people who've built 600 cars that make 3 times 600rwhp.

You can be proud to run their kit all you want, I'd never use a compromised thrust setup to save a few bucks. There is a reason all the big hp 4.6's don't use MMR 4.75 setups.
 
#12 ·
I actually inspected the shim setup closely. I'm not an MMR fan boy, but I honestly don't see how those shims are going to just pop out if they are installed correctly. I've also only built one mod motor not 600 so take that for what it's worth. Also, the crank they use is hardly a low buck item. It is a Ford Racing Boss 302 crank. Not a coyote crank, unless all coyote cranks are Boss 302 cranks or vice versa. Either way think you're incorrect characterizing it as cheap. Do you know of one breaking? I mean, I'm not making 1800hp so maybe I'll get lucky with their cheap stuff. Also, the journal width is wider on the Boss/Coyote crank so there is no way to machine the crankshaft to work, besides I'm no expert but wider/newer bearing design would seem to be better. The MMR kit uses the OEM Coyote rear main bearing. It isn't machined either. Just two shims. Mr. Shill probably used a wider main bearing cap.

You can also count me as someone that had a positive MMR experience. Keep in mind that bad news travels faster than good. I had a good experience. And I did call them for tech advice. Now I don't know how many MMR rotating assemblies you have ordered and put together. Or how many times you actually called MMR customer service. But unless its more than once than I'd say my word trumps the internet. Besides, the OP already has his cheap compromised MMR assembly ordered so I wish him the best of luck with it. I say he'll be happy with it and he can hit me up if he can't get through to the rude MMR tech support.
 
#13 ·
I actually inspected the shim setup closely. I'm not an MMR fan boy, but I honestly don't see how those shims are going to just pop out if they are installed correctly. I've also only built one mod motor not 600 so take that for what it's worth. Also, the crank they use is hardly a low buck item. It is a Ford Racing Boss 302 crank. Not a coyote crank, unless all coyote cranks are Boss 302 cranks or vice versa. Either way think you're incorrect characterizing it as cheap. Do you know of one breaking? I mean, I'm not making 1800hp so maybe I'll get lucky with their cheap stuff. Also, the journal width is wider on the Boss/Coyote crank so there is no way to machine the crankshaft to work, besides I'm no expert but wider/newer bearing design would seem to be better. The MMR kit uses the OEM Coyote rear main bearing. It isn't machined either. Just two shims. Mr. Shill probably used a wider main bearing cap.

You can also count me as someone that had a positive MMR experience. Keep in mind that bad news travels faster than good. I had a good experience. And I did call them for tech advice. Now I don't know how many MMR rotating assemblies you have ordered and put together. Or how many times you actually called MMR customer service. But unless its more than once than I'd say my word trumps the internet. Besides, the OP already has his cheap compromised MMR assembly ordered so I wish him the best of luck with it. I say he'll be happy with it and he can hit me up if he can't get through to the rude MMR tech support.
I gave MMR 4 chances. First time, I bought an oil pan. I ordered black, was told they didn't have black and I'd have to get a red one. I purchased during a free shipping offer, but was charged shipping. When I asked the guy said I didn't order the red one under free shipping. I gave them 3 more chances and each time the sales person either lied or seemed completely uninterested in helping me. It wasn't until I posted about my issues that Mark offered to deal with me direct. He was very kind but I had already moved on and purchased what I needed.

I do not walk around trashing them, they sell some good parts and Mark has publicly posted multiple times about finding good help is hard. However, their 4.75 as I said above is a money grab move. It's significantly cheaper to use the coyote crank than a Manley 4.6 crank.

The GT crank and boss cranks are both forged. The boss crank is readily available from Ford Racing at bit over 300 bucks MSRP.

The process of which Mike works the crank has been posted on here in the coyote crank thread. There is also a long detailed list of the inherent faults possible with the shim system.

Again, I'm glad you are having good luck with the setup but there is zero reason to add risk when you are building an engine just to save a few bucks.
 
#14 ·
Bullet, what Cody (Nightmare302) is telling you is worthy of your consideration.

Even more significantly the custom assembly and atypical parts choices required to make that crank fit / work in a ModMotor will most likely be all but forgotten at some point in the future should you decide to freshen the engine. The potential to correctly use the incorrect 4.6 component in a hybrid Mod/Coyote shortblock is stunningly high for the original builder and virtual certainty for anyone who works on the engine after it has been sold. If the previous sentence sounds confusing the real world experience will have you setting your hair on fire.

Attempts to simplify build choices and practices almost without exception play to the advantage of the builder. On the other hand attempts to complicate / sophisticate build choices and practices almost without exception play to the disadvantage of the builder, usually at some future build date. Why, as Cody so appropriately suggests, do you want to poke the sleeping bear in the cave — especially if you don't have to. :deshade:



Ed
 
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#16 ·
Ok, so this is a stock iron block, and I only see one shim, which appears to go between harmonic balancer and crank. Is there no need for other shims on an iron 4 valve block? Bullitt5566 I PM'd you , please give me a call, I would like to ask a few questions. This is not a track car, and I am an original owner , its kinda sentimental
 
#18 ·
In regards to the comments about the 4.75 kits / engines. The MMR 4.75 liter kits are one of the best selling in the industry, there are thousands of them out there, with the majority of them running perfect. Seems more mistakes have been from those purchasing DIY kits and not assembling them properly and/or mixing parts that are not compatible. The rear thrust shim system is a simple, reliable method that has proven itself over the last 7 years. Have there been thrust failures, of course, but these failures are also equally as common on the 4.6 or 5.4 - most of them created by improperly assembled rotating assemblies or incorrect torque converter clearance or excessive transmission pressure and nothing to do with the design itself.
 
#19 ·
Lastly, I wanted to touch on customer service. We have been around a very long time, from the beginning of the Ford Modular Engine for all practical purposes. We have seen many competitors come and go. We have remained a innovative, record holding and solid business to purchase both engines and components from. Unfortunately, the longer you are around, the more likely you are to have unhappy customers, likewise, companies that have been around a long time certainly do not exist by having poor customer service or product. As we all know, you cannot keep everyone happy. Factual Ratings however, such as our 100% Positive Ebay are indicative of most of our customers experience. We are certainly not perfect however, both myself and my staff make mistakes, (we deal with 1000's of customers every year) but we are always quick to make them right given the opportunity.
 
#20 ·
Just got off the phone with customer service. Got the answers I was looking for and Greg was as nice as could be. Sometimes you get what you give. Be nice you get nice! I am a distributor for outdoor products, everyone sells the stuff. But if you set yourself apart from the heard you excel!
 
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