Oil pump and oil system

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  1. #1

    Default Oil pump and oil system

    What's everyone doing for oil pump, pan, and RPM on 4.6 mod motors? New to this DOHC platform and with my LS stuff it starts cavitation at high RPM. Is there any similar issues with mod motors? I'm building a Teksid block with Kellogg crank, B heads and stock cobra intake. Is there an RPM limit to that oil pump design like the LS? Really looking forward to this build.

    Thanks Dan

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  3. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxandthefish View Post
    ...Is there an RPM limit to that oil pump design like the LS? ...

    Not really. The OEM gerotor design seems to work well at all useable rpms.

    Ed

  4. #3

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    That's good to know. Trying to cram as much info into my brain as I can next few months before I start into this 4.6 DOHC. This Sat I will be picking up a Kellogg crank with Scat rods and Diamond pistons.

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  6. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxandthefish View Post
    That's good to know. Trying to cram as much info into my brain as I can next few months before I start into this 4.6 DOHC. This Sat I will be picking up a Kellogg crank with Scat rods and Diamond pistons.
    If you haven't bought the Diamonds yet you ought to look at a set of billet Gibtec's. they not only cost less they are a better piston. Check out the Article here => Off the Shelf Custom Pistons.


    Ed

  7. #5

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    The Diamonds .020 over and come with the whole rotating assembly but had planned on new pistons to try to retain stock bore. Ill definitely look at those and likely get a set. Seems from the reading I do here so far, EVERYONE trusts what you say and recommend.

  8. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxandthefish View Post
    The Diamonds .020 over and come with the whole rotating assembly but had planned on new pistons to try to retain stock bore. Ill definitely look at those and likely get a set. Seems from the reading I do here so far, EVERYONE trusts what you say and recommend.
    Here is another article worth a few moments, click here => Why You Want to Use Standard Bore Sizes. In the pre thin wall casting days and in particular when dealing with n/a engines the few additional inches of displacement and horsepower available for competition engines argued that you over bore the block to the extent allowed by the association rules.

    When dealing with thin wall castings and particluarly when dealing with supercharged street driven engines, going to the maximum overbore for the particular block is not your friend. The few horsepower represented by the additional displacement is more easily and less expensively made up with a pulley change in the supercharger drive mechanism. Additionally the thin wall castings will allow the cylinders to distort under maximum cylinder pressure which will not only loose any potential power increases you were anticipating but also eventually crack what is left of the liner in those cylinders.

    Lastly and perhaps most profoundly once a cylinder liner has failed the block either needs to be re-sleeved in all eight bores or simply replaced with a new OEM block — either route is a pricey alternative. Of course don't forget the potential piston replacement issues — unless you overbore the new block to use the old pistons and start the path down the block replacement road once again.


    Ed

  9. #7

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    Id rather pay for new stock bore pistons and a torque plate hone over having the block bored to fit these and keep the cylinder wall thickness. Its a turbo car so I doubt I would see any HP gain from losing structure stability going .020 over. I 100% agree with what you're saying Ed.

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