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Oil Filer Adapter Options

2K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  eschaider 
#1 · (Edited)
Oil Filter Adapter Options

I am rebuilding an engine with had a catastrophic piston failure, metal piece everywhere. I'm in the process of cleaning out everything that didn't go to the machine shop and the first issue I am having is cleaning out the oil cooler. Even disassembling it, the inner core that the oil flows through doesn't seem to give you much access to clean it out. I've run solvent through it via parts washer but even after flushing it for some time I'm still getting little metal flakes out now and then. If there a better way to clean this? I'm sure I'm not the first one in this situation. Maybe I just need to continue to flush it longer.

What are my options for a new adapter? Does the GT adapter work I've seen and few people using it but I think they are all turbo so don't have to worry about the alternator placement. I'd prefer not to run a remote filter. There are a few used coolers around but I don't know the condition of these either.
 
#2 ·
The problem with the used pieces is the same as you are experiencing right now. I suspect Ford does not sell new ones any more because of the age of the car. You might find one in the dealer network somewhere but the search is painful and the probability of success is small. You might try having a shop try to clean it using their parts washer for blocks and heads but short of that (and I'm not sure that's any better than what you are doing) it just might be the end of the road for that piece.

The challenge you face is reaching a cleaning point where no additional foreign particulate matter is being flushed out. Thinking you have successfully cleaned the cooler you put it back in service and some additional crud breaks free and goes through the engine damaging parts for you. An ultrasonic clean might be the best bet but, even then you can't see inside to know if you have completed the cleaning job.

Unless you can find a new unit you always run the risk if having foreign contaminants inside the 'new' used piece that you can not see and then you find yourself right back to where you didn't want to be. You may end up being forced into a remote oil filter mount just because ...


Ed
 
#4 ·
The problem with the used pieces is the same as you are experiencing right now. I suspect Ford does not sell new ones any more because of the age of the car. You might find one in the dealer network somewhere but the search is painful and the probability of success is small. You might try having a shop try to clean it using their parts washer for blocks and heads but short of that (and I'm not sure that's any better than what you are doing) it just might be the end of the road for that piece.

The challenge you face is reaching a cleaning point where no additional foreign particulate matter is being flushed out. Thinking you have successfully cleaned the cooler you put it back in service and some additional crud breaks free and goes through the engine damaging parts for you. An ultrasonic clean might be the best bet but, even then you can't see inside to know if you have completed the cleaning job.

Unless you can find a new unit you always run the risk if having foreign contaminants inside the 'new' used piece that you can not see and then you find yourself right back to where you didn't want to be. You may end up being forced into a remote oil filter mount just because ...

Ed
terminator-specific hard parts sure do seem to getting a lot harder to come by (normal for any niche car i suppose).

and ed, as you have alluded to in other threads on this subject, there usually just isn't enough demand/cost-effectiveness for a manufacturer to try to repop them.

i recently had to downgrade my coupe's radiator to the generic mustang gt part because i could not find a direct replacement out there anywhere.
My machine shop seems confident they can flush it out properly but I think I still may swap to the MMR piece for piece of mind.

And yes P49Y-CY it is getting pretty rough, new pieces are essentially non-existant and even used pieces are starting to get scarce. Any reason you opted for a GT radiator vs an aftermarket aluminum? I'm probably going to be in the same boat and curious your thought process.
 
#3 ·
terminator-specific hard parts sure do seem to getting a lot harder to come by (normal for any niche car i suppose).

and ed, as you have alluded to in other threads on this subject, there usually just isn't enough demand/cost-effectiveness for a manufacturer to try to repop them.

i recently had to downgrade my coupe's radiator to the generic mustang gt part because i could not find a direct replacement out there anywhere.
 
#6 ·
I can’t help you with the oil cooler as mine is in the same boat.
However regarding the radiator, the Fluidyne I put in my Cobra dropped right in and required no modding to ac lines or any other lines. Did it about 10 years ago and iirc I did nothing out of the ordinary that I can remember to install it. If I did anything it was extend the upper radiator clips back a little due to it being a thicker than stock radiator. You absolutely can not tell anything was done except for the brighter and shinier aluminum you see when looking down from above with the hood open. Could always hit it with a little matte silver or black if you didn’t want to see that.
Also for what it’s worth I still have my stock radiator that has only roughly 10,500 miles on it if you want a true 2003 Cobra radiator. It will never be put back in and I would sell it if you’re interested.

Ken
 
#7 ·
I can't help you with the oil cooler as mine is in the same boat.
However regarding the radiator, the Fluidyne I put in my Cobra dropped right in and required no modding to ac lines or any other lines. Did it about 10 years ago and iirc I did nothing out of the ordinary that I can remember to install it. If I did anything it was extend the upper radiator clips back a little due to it being a thicker than stock radiator. You absolutely can not tell anything was done except for the brighter and shinier aluminum you see when looking down from above with the hood open. Could always hit it with a little matte silver or black if you didn't want to see that.
Also for what it's worth I still have my stock radiator that has only roughly 10,500 miles on it if you want a true 2003 Cobra radiator. It will never be put back in and I would sell it if you're interested.

Ken
hey that's very nice of you ken :beer: i just may take you up on that someday! thanks

so the fluidyne, huh? i took a look at those at the time and the tanks looks as square all the way down as the others and i thought for sure that it would need modifications. but good to know that it is a direct drop in

- chris
 
#8 · (Edited)
. . . I've run solvent through it via parts washer but even after flushing it for some time I'm still getting little metal flakes out now and then. If there a better way to clean this?
Foundries use a small pneumatic vibrator attached to a pattern to aid in separation from the sand. (see link) Attach the vibrator to the cooler while you are flushing it and you will get it perfectly clean. Just flush & vibrate until no particles are discharged. Yeah, I'm sure there can be a million jokes about this post but contain yourselves. :)

PS: I can't to get the short link to work so here is the full URL.
https://www.freemansupply.com/products/foundry-tools-supplies/other-foundry-supplies/vibrators
 
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