Coil Stuff
The OEM pencil cops have a dwell speed limit right around 2ms give or take and I think it is a take situation but I can't recall. If you run them at a 3 ms dwell, like you are, you will likely overheat them, boil the oil in the coil packs and experience a physical failure where the plastic outer cover bursts to release the pressure from the boiling oil. Even if you don't which, I doubt, you are at best still way short of the mark (spark energy-wise) that you need to be at in a boosted engine.
Brand new OEM pencil cops are only good for about 20mj of spark energy. Just about what it takes to light a naturally aspirated mixture. Once you boost the engine, depending on how used up the cops are, you begin to experience spark blowout. The fix is exactly what you are investigating right now. Ignoring CD coils there are two broad classes of inductive coils available, smart (with igniters built in) and dumb w/o igniters. If you go the dumb route you may need to use igniters along with the coils. If you go the smart route you will not. Smart coils deliver about 103mj oof spark energy, dumb coils deliver about 118mj spark energy - close but not identical.
The reason igniters are required for the dumb coils is that most aftermarket ECU's are not designed to internally handle the current draw from the dumb coils. There are a couple of notable exceptions to this, one of which is from MegaSquirt. The MS exception is their new Plug and Play (PnP) MS3Pro for Terminators and SN95 cars that uses a stock wiring harness and OEM cops. The circuit board was built to handle the current draw from the stock dumb coils.
As it turns out the use of dumb coils and external igniter circuitry closely approximates the cost of just the IGN1-A smart coils but adds wiring complexity and additional points of failure, in the igniter electronics, to deal with. As painful as it is, price wise, the name brand IGN1-A coils are a better choice than the cheaper IGN1-A knock-off coils available through Amazon and eBay. The knock off coils not only have a higher failure rate but tend to wilt under load after a short life.
You might consider setting up the spark at a low dwell (2ms or so) until you are under boost and above some target rpm (4000?). The benefit, with the IGN1-A coils, or any coil for that matter, is a cooler running coil that still fires at high boost and does not overheat or prematurely fail.
Valve Spring Stuff
With respect to the valve springs there are basically two manufacturer choices you have and three spring choices between those two. The two manufacturers are PAC and Associated Spring. Pac has two offerings and Associated has one. The Associated spring is sold by Manley as their Nextek spring. The PAC offerings are sold as Pac springs. The Nextek spring is essentially a cop of the PAC 1223 spec-wise.
The two spring offerings in the PAC line up are the PAC 1223 spring with is an excellent spring that seats at 90 lbs with a 324 #/inch spring rate. The second spring is a PAC 1217X with a 308 3/in spring rate that seats at 135 lbs. The 1217X spring was a three valve spring that is used with a special PAC retainer to increase the installed height to 1.530" if I recall correctly. The PAC retainer is their R346 retainer that adds 0.060" to the installed height allowing you to get to the 1.530" installed height spec. I personally use this spring because of the 135 lbs seat pressure on th intakes. When yo use the 1217X spring on the intake you still use the 1223 spring on the exhaust.
For a while, although not currently, Pac offered a 1523 spring which was a nitrided version of the 1223 spring. The 1523 spring is a toughened 1223 spring that seats at 101 lbs. To my knowledge they no longer offer this spring but might make a set on a special order basis. By and large the cost does not warrant the effort. The 1223 and 1217X offerings do an excellent job.
Spring retainers required are PAC because their springs are narrower at the top than OEM. The 1223 springs need a PAC R312 retainer and the 1217X springs need a PAC R346 retainer. The retainers are steel, pretty inexpensive and super light. I believe mine were 5 grams and 6 grams each.
Ed
p.s. As a cheapo first step, you might want to try an NGK TR6. I know they send proletariate but they just seem to work everywhere, all the time. If by chance they seem too warm go down one step to a TR7. I think you might be surprised at how well the TR6 plugs perform.