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10-08-2019,†01:56 PM #1
MS3Pro Terminator Version Arrives!!
It looks like Santa Claus came early last night. As I went out to pick up the mail I found a package on the porch and it was from DIYAutoTune. This is what it looked like;
When you open the package you find the ECU and cables enclosed in a protective black sponge like material and neatly arranged like the photo below;
When you lay out the box contents on a table you have an ECU, an RS232 programming cable a 6 foot length of vacuum line, a vacuum line "T" fitting to an tap into an existing vacuum / boost source along with a plastic electrical connector and wiring to access the expansion ports on the back of the ECU.
That's pretty much it! You also get a small thumb drive with the Tuner Studio Tuning Software and Datalog Viewing Software, a tune file for the stock 40 lb injectors. The ECU's serial number is the registration key for the Tuning and Datalog Viewer software.
Inside the ECU Box there is a jumper switch to either set the internal 4Bar map sensor as the boost reference source or use an external sensor like the 2Bar OEM sensor. If you are running at or over 2BAR of boost (14.7 psi gauge) you ought to use either the internal 4 BAR sensor built into the MS3Pro or buy a 3 or 4 BAR Bosch sensor with integrated IAT2 temp capabilities. The 3 BAR sensor is Bosch Part# 281 002 845 and the 4 BAR sensor is 281 002 576. Bosch can provide the necessary calibration data for the ECU. As a general rule of thumb don't buy more than you need. A 3 BAR sensor will handle up to 29.4 psi of manifold pressure and a 4 bar sensor will handle 44 psi of manifold pressure. The 3 BAR sensor is almost always the correct choice unless you are running a high boost turbocharged application.
An interesting side to the Bosch sensor is that because the sensor is imbedded into the manifold where our IAT2 sensors go it will respond more quickly to boost changes than a similar sensor connected to 3 feet of vacuum line, Presumable quick more accurate boost reference numbers are better than slower ones ó but real world experiences will tell the final story.
An interesting point to remember is that because the Bosch sensor is actually right in the manifold, if you experience an intercooler failure you will likely melt the plastic sensor from the high IAT2 temps and need to replace it with a new one.
The doc on the thumb drive and the free downloadable MS3Pro Ultimate user manual will be very handy references.
I am pumped about my new toy and I think when yours arrives you will be too!
Almost forgot, there is a waaaaay cool Bluetooth to RS232 adapter that EFI Analytics (authors of the tuning s/w) offers that allows your laptop to wirelessly communicate with the ECU for tuning and downloading data logs so you no longer need the equivalent of an X-Cal or cabling to work on the tune. This is a pic of the gizmo;
And this is where you can get it, click here => RS232 / Bluetooth Adapter
This is a better selection for the RS232 / Bluetooth Adapter.
The first adapter (the white one above) does not use pin 9 power on the RS232 cable and therefore requires a Lithium battery to power it.
The adapter below does use the pin 9 power on the RS232 cable so it will operate without the need for a battery ó a much better alternative.
And this is where you can get it, click here =>RS232 / Bluetooth Adapter
p.s. Almost forgot, here is a pic of the business end that plugs into our OEM wiring harness;
Last edited by eschaider; 10-09-2019 at 01:00 PM. Reason: Added RS232 / Bluetooth Adapter info
10-08-2019,†02:59 PM #2
I canít wait until you get deeper into this and start reading your notes on install and get your hands on the tuning!! Definitely looking forward to it. I just received my shipping update and I will have mine Thursday!!
Gonna order the Bluetooth adapter right now.
Thanks again for everything!
10-08-2019,†05:45 PM #3
10-08-2019,†09:26 PM #4
I have had a minor setback on the engine, guys.
I was torquing the heads down this last weekend when one of the ARP studs pulled all the threads out of the head stud bolt well. Yuppers, clean as a whistle and it happened on the first torque step at 50 ft/lbs, actually before I even got to 50 ft/lbs! Now if that isn't bad enough it was on one of those oh-so-high dollar Hyland blocks! I thought the mains seemed a little wimpy as I torqued them down and then a head stud strips out all the threads in one of the driver side cylinder bank stud wells ó how nice ...
Now I suspect the mains are equally fragile so that means both mains and head stud holes need repair. Can't wait to see what this is going to sort down to.
Looks like Josh is leading the MS3Pro PNP installation charge right now.
Go get 'em Josh!
10-08-2019,†09:46 PM #5
I don't know if this is appropriate or if it will help anyone but here is the MSPro tune for my car in a zip file. You won't be able to use this tune directly but maybe while someone is learning the software they will be able to see how some features are setup. I know when I was setting the system up I just wanted a similar tune to look at to learn from. Load it into Tuner Studio and check out the settings.
4.6 TT 2V
Auto Trans (not controlled with MSPro)
32psi boost (controlled with EBoost2)
Flex Fuel (I think this is only a base tune so I can run pump gas when needed. No official tune b/c I never took it in to be tuned on pump gas)
Three 340 fuel pumps. Two pumps come on at 7psi.
NOTE: I DO NOT know anything about tuning. I had my tuner work his magic after I got the system working so don't ask me any details about the tune.
I hope it helps someone.
10-08-2019,†11:15 PM #6
Thanks for sharing, Kevin.
Whenever we start out on a new technology initiative it is always helpful to see how someone else approached a similar challenge. The opportunity to learn from other's efforts is always a welcome event. Thank you for sharing this with the rest of us.
10-09-2019,†05:35 PM #7
Damn Ed! Sorry to hear that. What is the fix for that with the head and main studs? Does lock-n-stitch make repair inserts for both?
10-09-2019,†07:08 PM #8
They don't, Ken.
The problem is one of possibly two different whoopses, hopefully not both but possibly both. The first could be that the heat treat on the block was done incorrectly and the aluminum threads were soft and just pulled out. This is a show stopper because aluminum can not be re-heat treated. The second is that the thread engagement could have been less than spec for a high stress fastener like a head stud. I believe, but have not verified yet, that the % thread engagement for a stud style fastener in a high stress application anchored in aluminum is 75% or greater. If the % thread engagement were less, the anchoring thread in the aluminum would fail and the stud would again pull out.
While it could be either one of these mistakes it could also be both of the mistakes ó which is a double whammy because again the inability to re-heatreat aluminum renders the block useless! If the heat treatment whoops is the real whoops then the block is scrap. If the thread was simply not tapped to the correct % thread engagement but the aluminum is properly heat treated then it is possible to drill and retap the block for head studs like JM's Ĺ inch studs with their giant 9/16 inch anchoring threads that you form deep down in the block.
Even in a best case scenario it looks like about a $2K to $3K fix. John has the studs priced at $700 and then you need to add the cost of drilling and thread forming the block. The extra zinger is that the mains will need to be done also for all the same reasons. So add the cost of some 11mm Coyote main studs and the machining expense and you can crest the $2.5K to $3.0K mark pretty easily.
It just irritates me because I spent the outrageously high price for the Hyland block because I was looking for the best alternative ó little did I suspect ...
p.s. On a totally different and unrelated matter spake sure you get the Bluetooth to USB adapter for the MS3Pro. It is the tuning equivalent of getting WIFI internet access after having to use an ethernet cable connection for years. It is just waaaay cool. Once you try it you'll wonder why no one did it sooner. Of course we know why SCT didn't, the wired approach allowed them to sell X-Cal's ó what nice guys ...
Last edited by eschaider; 10-09-2019 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Spelling & Grammar
10-09-2019,†09:12 PM #9
I am sick to my stomach for you Ed. Even if the heat treat is good, the fix is utterly painful!! 😞
I am so sorry to hear this. Especially for someone who has so unselfishly given his time and knowledge to our community to help us. Iím sure that is spread far beyond just what we see and benefit from here too.
On your other note I did pick up the first Bluetooth adapter you had mentioned. I just now seen the pin 9 powered adapter you added above. I will be picking up the powered one next to use instead.
10-10-2019,†09:22 AM #10
Damn Ed, hate to hear that for you. There's nothing worse than spending good money on what's supposed to be a quality product but seems it happens frequently in this game
And to think how annoyed I was when realizing the shop had missed a broken manifold stud, that's not **** in hindsight (and thankfully a reverse bit backed it right out)
10-10-2019,†09:38 AM #11
Ed is this a new block or have you had it? I just have not heard the name Sean hyland in years. Forgot all about him.
My MS3Pro should be here today and install tomorrow/Saturday.
10-10-2019,†10:13 AM #12
I know exactly where you are coming from Jerry. When I did the initial inspection of the Hyland block there were little whoopses (neither of the two block decks at the same height and neither at the correct height) that I thought were inappropriate for a high dollar aftermarket piece but you just swallow and continue to march. Shortly after I took delivery JM and I were talking about the block and he informed me of his similar problems but on the mains with two different castings from Hyland. I was hoping that was just a early run problem but it appears it was present on more than a few blocks.
It was a brand new block, Josh. I purchased it at or just after Hyland had sold his block business to Koenigseg to be used as the engine platform in their One:1 supercar offering. It literally sat in the box (after finish machining).for ten years before I pulled it out to use it. Bitter pill but sadly, that's the way it goes sometimes. I need to do more investigation into the origins of the failure.
Congrats on the early Christmas. The out of box experience is excellent. It looks like you are going to be the first out of the gate. I think you will do excellently and love the ECU. If I can help, don't be bashful about asking.
All the best, guys.
Last edited by eschaider; 10-10-2019 at 01:43 PM. Reason: Spelling & Grammar
10-10-2019,†02:47 PM #13
10-10-2019,†04:26 PM #14
Mine did too. I would post a pic as well but itíll look just like yours
Did you sales receipt specify it was the 03-04 Mustang Cobra unit?
My sales receipt reads it being the 1999-2003 Ford Mustang with manual transmission!
I really want to verify that itís the 03-04 Cobra PnP that I have.
Model number reads MSPNPPro-EECV_8DM_ECU fw rev .1.5.1
Just really want to make sure there wasnít a mix up when packaged and shipped!!
10-10-2019,†04:44 PM #15
My receipt reads identical to yours, Ken. It is the Terminator version. Your tune file will be named 03 Cobra 40lb inj final.msq. Just like the naming convention implies the tune file is setup to use the stock 40 lb injectors. Be sure to change this to whatever size injector you are running prior to first start.