My Turbo build process
So this wont have no where near the details as the other builds here. I've been accumulating parts for so long I'm just excited to finally put it together. I have alot of patience putting everything together but not enough to get the camera out.
I started with a 96 Teksid engine from a Mark 8 that I purchased for $350. Out of that, I kept the block, oil pickup, valve covers, bolts and some odd and end things, trashed the rest. Picked up a Cobra crank from NMRA last year for $300. Ordered a set of Molnar Power Adder rods, ATI balancer. Before taking the block to the machine shop, I spent some time and fully deburred the block. Took those to the machine shop to get everything cleaned up and checked. The block ended up cleaning up at 3.652 which I wasn't to happy about but its fine for now. Ordered a set of Gibtec's based on what the block cleaned up at. The crank needed some metal added but everything balanced up great. Per Ed's advice, I sent the pistons off to Line 2 Line for some coating. They were super fast, they looked amazing and were very accommodating. I HIGHLY recommend them.
I went with the King 5281si main bearings with the 1329si upper.
Purchased the ring file from Summit. It was very easy to use. I chose to go .028 on the steel upper ring as well as the second napier ring. The steel upper is alot harder than the naiper. It took about 25 or so turns to get close to my goal and about 5-6 to get close for the napier ring. Learning that didn't take as long to file fit them for each bore. Just make sure to turn the diamond grinder towards the inside of the ring, not the outside. Also you need to make sure you smooth the edges of the rings after gapping them, if not, the rings wont seat into the ring lands.
Here you can see then Line 2 Line coating. They require a special break in but the coating wears off quick where it needs too.
The rod bolts were already torqued on very good out of the box. It was a pain to get them off so I had to use air tools, some ******* engineering but got them off. The locks were actually pretty easy to get on but your fingers will feel it the next day. I found if you put the ring gaps in first then press the bottom in then use a screw driver to lightly push them in, then clicks right in place.
While the machine shop had the block, I had them tap the sides of the main caps for the larger 9mm ARP side bolts.
I used Plastigage to check the clearances, the mains came out to .015 while the rods came out to .017. Torqued the inside main bolts to 60ftlbs, outside's to 25ftlbs, jackscrews to 7ftlbs and the side bolts to 45ftlbs. Let the boss torque them down since she wanted to help
I had an old Craftsman piston ring compressor that I always used in the past but when I got the 2nd piston in I turned the crank and noticed something grabbing. Removed both pistons and noticed when I slid #5 piston in, the lower oil ring got damaged and marked up the cylinder wall a bit. Little bit of scotchbrite got it cleaned up. I had an extra one but the gap on that was .035 while the others are .015.
So like an idiot I didn't read the information from Molnar about the bolts. I cleaned them up, used ARP lube and torqued them down to 60ftlbs. Reading the sheet it says to use supplied oil that were already on the rods. Is this ok or should I remove the caps and get some other thicker oil? Oil pan isn't on yet.
Kris Starnes did a great job on the heads. He installed .5mm larger intake Ferrea valves and stock size exhaust, Pac springs, bronze valve guides and a heavy port job.
Got the heads on using 30-60 then 85ftlbs. I went with the Felpro 26222PT and 26187PT.
For the oil pump I went with the GT500 with the billet gear from Boundary and the GT500 oil gasket. The oil gasket required some cutting with the dremel but came out great. I used the Mark 8 oil pick up which also required some cutting.
That's it for now. Next is the custom turbo cams and all the timing. Not looking forward to tackling that, heh.
Let me know any thoughts or something I should check etc.
So this wont have no where near the details as the other builds here. I've been accumulating parts for so long I'm just excited to finally put it together. I have alot of patience putting everything together but not enough to get the camera out.
I started with a 96 Teksid engine from a Mark 8 that I purchased for $350. Out of that, I kept the block, oil pickup, valve covers, bolts and some odd and end things, trashed the rest. Picked up a Cobra crank from NMRA last year for $300. Ordered a set of Molnar Power Adder rods, ATI balancer. Before taking the block to the machine shop, I spent some time and fully deburred the block. Took those to the machine shop to get everything cleaned up and checked. The block ended up cleaning up at 3.652 which I wasn't to happy about but its fine for now. Ordered a set of Gibtec's based on what the block cleaned up at. The crank needed some metal added but everything balanced up great. Per Ed's advice, I sent the pistons off to Line 2 Line for some coating. They were super fast, they looked amazing and were very accommodating. I HIGHLY recommend them.
I went with the King 5281si main bearings with the 1329si upper.
Purchased the ring file from Summit. It was very easy to use. I chose to go .028 on the steel upper ring as well as the second napier ring. The steel upper is alot harder than the naiper. It took about 25 or so turns to get close to my goal and about 5-6 to get close for the napier ring. Learning that didn't take as long to file fit them for each bore. Just make sure to turn the diamond grinder towards the inside of the ring, not the outside. Also you need to make sure you smooth the edges of the rings after gapping them, if not, the rings wont seat into the ring lands.
Here you can see then Line 2 Line coating. They require a special break in but the coating wears off quick where it needs too.
The rod bolts were already torqued on very good out of the box. It was a pain to get them off so I had to use air tools, some ******* engineering but got them off. The locks were actually pretty easy to get on but your fingers will feel it the next day. I found if you put the ring gaps in first then press the bottom in then use a screw driver to lightly push them in, then clicks right in place.
While the machine shop had the block, I had them tap the sides of the main caps for the larger 9mm ARP side bolts.
I used Plastigage to check the clearances, the mains came out to .015 while the rods came out to .017. Torqued the inside main bolts to 60ftlbs, outside's to 25ftlbs, jackscrews to 7ftlbs and the side bolts to 45ftlbs. Let the boss torque them down since she wanted to help
I had an old Craftsman piston ring compressor that I always used in the past but when I got the 2nd piston in I turned the crank and noticed something grabbing. Removed both pistons and noticed when I slid #5 piston in, the lower oil ring got damaged and marked up the cylinder wall a bit. Little bit of scotchbrite got it cleaned up. I had an extra one but the gap on that was .035 while the others are .015.
So like an idiot I didn't read the information from Molnar about the bolts. I cleaned them up, used ARP lube and torqued them down to 60ftlbs. Reading the sheet it says to use supplied oil that were already on the rods. Is this ok or should I remove the caps and get some other thicker oil? Oil pan isn't on yet.
Kris Starnes did a great job on the heads. He installed .5mm larger intake Ferrea valves and stock size exhaust, Pac springs, bronze valve guides and a heavy port job.
Got the heads on using 30-60 then 85ftlbs. I went with the Felpro 26222PT and 26187PT.
For the oil pump I went with the GT500 with the billet gear from Boundary and the GT500 oil gasket. The oil gasket required some cutting with the dremel but came out great. I used the Mark 8 oil pick up which also required some cutting.
That's it for now. Next is the custom turbo cams and all the timing. Not looking forward to tackling that, heh.
Let me know any thoughts or something I should check etc.