Turbo Engine Re-Build - Page 3

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  1. #31

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    Ed, I am unfortunately the owner of the 3/8 flange. I’ve sent them out to be (re) thermal coated, and plan on getting new bolts. I’d like to put a flat edge on the flange to see if it’s still straight and true. I may end up measuring the depth allowable in the head for the manifold bolt, and try to find a longer one for increased clamping load.

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  3. #32

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    On many of the heads I have looked at, Matt, Ford did not use the entire bolt hole depth for threading. They often stopped a quarter of an inch or more short of bottom. You might want to check yours and see how much thread engagement you have and how much you can increase it.. If there is more unused hole depth a bottoming tap can frequently give you a quarter of an inch to sometimes ⅜ of an inch more thread engagement.

    If the flanges are warped slightly a light surface cut may be helpful. If they are warped a lot, new flanges might be in order. If you go the new flange route you might want to investigate the half inch thick alternatives. A lot of the exhaust high priests might tell you you are running the EGT's too high which is what is causing the warpage problem. A little more fuel can help that problem.


    Ed
    Last edited by eschaider; 11-16-2019 at 01:27 AM. Reason: Spelling and Grammar

  4. #33

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    Ed, the TFS heads measure 1.20” thread depth at the exhaust face, give another 3/8” for the flange, a bit for the gasket, and it’s easy to see these 7/8” bolts aren’t up to snuff!

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  6. #34

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    I am reading the tea leaves the same way, Matt. You need longer bolts or better yet studs and as much thread as you gan get in the head castings. As a rule of thumb you want 2.5 to 3 diameters of thread engagement in aluminum. Highly stressed parts even more. Look at a head stud and check how long the coarse threaded M11 side is that goes into the block. Now divide that by 11 mm and look at how many diameters of thread engagement you are working with.


    Ed

  7. #35

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    Boring details tonight, got all the mounting tabs for the radiator, trans cooler, scavenger pump, and intercooler welded on. Will have to finish the fender tabs and hood support, disassemble everything and paint.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  8. #36

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    Been recently compiling a “things I probably need list”

    J&S Vampire knock sensor (I have none)

    Peterson remote filter housing with pump (ability to pre-lube)

    Peterson oil regulator

    Anything else?

  9. #37

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    hhmmm....

  10. #38

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    Since we were on the topic of oil drains do you have, or will it help to have, drain extensions on the bottom of the turbos? I made mine after fighting access to the fittings on the bottom if the bearing housing and they are a huge time saver. If you need them you can buy them but I made mine before I knew then existed.

    For fittings, the fancy anodized AN fittings look pretty but if you don't need the bling in certain areas McMasterCarr.com has them in zinc plated steel and they are far more durable than aluminum ones.


    ks

  11. #39

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    I don't recall what type of ECU you are running, Matt. Is it OEM or aftermarket?


    Ed

  12. #40

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    Yes I want extended drains, and I need to maximize the inside diameter. Some of the -10 flanges you can see are pretty necked down. I need a full 5/8-3/4” inside diameter.

  13. #41

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    Ed, it’s Oem, you gonna push me into the ms3?

  14. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by CrucialProspect View Post
    Ed, it’s Oem, you gonna push me into the ms3?

    The price of a performance oriented ECU with engine fail safes, flex fuel capability, knock detection and control, traction control etc, etc. is not just cheap money, in the case of the MS3Pro PnP system it is smart money. No matter what goes bump in the dark once the engine comes out the ante at the poker table is gong to be multiples of what the $1349 MS3Pro price tag was.


    Ed

  15. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by eschaider View Post
    The price of a performance oriented ECU with engine fail safes, flex fuel capability, knock detection and control, traction control etc, etc. is not just cheap money, in the case of the MS3Pro PnP system it is smart money. No matter what goes bump in the dark once the engine comes out the ante at the poker table is gong to be multiples of what the $1349 MS3Pro price tag was.


    Ed
    Ed,
    Is the MS PnP compatible with his 2V computer? If it is then I agree that it's a great direction for his wallet to lean towards but only if he as the knowledge or the availability to get it tuned. Should he forfeit the Vampire system and use the MS for knock control then that would be a good portion of that cost right there. Will it work with the factory 2V coils? I needed coil drivers for my non PnP version for my 2V.

    Matt,
    If you're curious you can download the manual and browse through it, too.

    ks

  16. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by KEVINS View Post
    Ed,
    Is the MS PnP compatible with his 2V computer? If it is then I agree that it's a great direction for his wallet to lean towards but only if he as the knowledge or the availability to get it tuned. Should he forfeit the Vampire system and use the MS for knock control then that would be a good portion of that cost right there. Will it work with the factory 2V coils? I needed coil drivers for my non PnP version for my 2V.


    If you're curious you can download the manual and browse through it, too.

    ks

    I can't say with absolute certainty Kevin but I believe the 99-04 Mustang GT version will work with the 2V heads. I don't believe the number of valves is necessarily the gating factor. I suspect it is the harness pin assignment and the special peripheral equipment that needs to be supported. An example would be the Terminator intercooler system. On the cars that were originally n/a from the factory most if not all of the special stuff is gone and the basic engine control system, I think, is quite similar 2V to 3V to 4V. Lots of words for a probable yes.

    I'll give the guys at DIYAutoTune a call Monday to see what they have to say.



    Ed



    p.s. Matt, what year is your chassis?


    p.p.s. They put the coils drivers in the PnP version just opposite of the way they handled the Ultimate configuration, Kevin. The reason for the difference was the OEM coils are dumb coils with the drivers internal to the OEM ECU. That meant the coil drivers had to be built into the MS3Pro PnP so it could run the OEM dumb coils. If the smart IGN1-A coils are used extra pushups will be required. Actually the "dumb' IGN1 coils put out about 15 or so mj more energy than the IGN1-A coils and are a direct swap w/o additional electronics. Extra added attraction is that they are about ⅔ the price of the smart coils. Interesting side note an OEM COP puts out 15 to 18mj of spark energy so either of the IGN1 coils represent a huge step up in spark energy at the plug.
    Last edited by eschaider; 11-23-2019 at 04:05 AM. Reason: Added Postscripts

  17. #45

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    Ed, chassis is 2004, stock oem computer. I can’t justify funds this year but am actively following the ms3 thread for next year. I do still want to run the vampire sensor in the meantime.

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