Normal valve-train noise? - Page 2

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  1. #16

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    Again, Nick, the #5 thrust bearing has no effect on the oiling to the heads. Each head is oiled with a 'private' supply off the main oil galley that has no relation to #5 thrust bearing — other than they both derive their oil, though separate passages, off the main oil galley. A #5 failure would not represent an oiling consideration for the heads other than particulate contaminants the oil filter might have bypassed.

    A 20 psi oil supply should take all the clearance up in the lash adjusters. If it doesn't, and the lash adjusters are not dead, then there is a blockage somewhere in the oil system preventing the oil from getting to the heads and this blockage must be found and corrected.


    Ed

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  3. #17
    Senior Member Array 03yllwcobra's Avatar
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    I will try that, and just to clarify it took out all the main bearings and shoved the stock crank forward. It took out the oil pump and all when that happened, not just the thrust bearing.

  4. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by 03yllwcobra View Post
    I will try that, and just to clarify it took out all the main bearings and shoved the stock crank forward. It took out the oil pump and all when that happened, not just the thrust bearing.

    I run a garbage disposal with an unventilated counter top in my kitchen but even though it is not ventilated, it still doesn't have any effect on the oil supply to the heads on your engine, the two are totally unrelated. So is #5 thrust main. The oil pump failure is a different kettle of fish, however. An oil pump failure will take out oil pressure to the entire engine — which will hurt your heads.

    That said you do not have a failed oil pump right now and your heads are either not getting any oil pressure to their oil galleys or your lash adjusters need to be replaced. The easiest fix (which does not require engine removal) is replace the lash adjusters. If that cures the valvetrain noise, you have found (and fixed) the culprit. If it doesn't, then it is time to pull the engine, something more significant is amiss.


    Ed
    Last edited by eschaider; 11-19-2019 at 03:45 AM. Reason: Spelling and Grammar

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  6. #19
    Senior Member Array 03yllwcobra's Avatar
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    Alright fair enough, would you happen to have any information on where the lifters get their oil from? Does the oil come from the plunger underneath the cam caps?


    Thanks

    Nick
    Last edited by 03yllwcobra; 11-19-2019 at 10:49 AM.

  7. #20

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    Here is a 1 minute Youtube video showing how to remove the cam followers with a flat blade screwdriver. I know it sounds barbaric but it works and it is safe to do. Some of the underhood paraphernalia may get in your way and need to be moved to get at all the cam followers. Click here for the vid => Cam Follower Removal / Install

    After all the cam followers are out go in with a set of needle nose pliers and remove the old lash adjusters replacing each one with a new lash adjuster.

    The lash adjusters receive their oil from their own private oil galleys. The pic below shows where the intake and exhaust lash adjuster oil galleys are located on the front and back of the heads;

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    Ed
    Last edited by eschaider; 11-19-2019 at 11:17 AM. Reason: Fixed broken pic link

  8. #21
    Senior Member Array 03yllwcobra's Avatar
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    Thanks Ed, I also thought about pulling one lash adjust out and spinning the peterson pump to see if oil is actually coming to the lifter also.

  9. #22

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    That is not a bad idea either. The Peterson remote gives you that capability so you don't have to put engine internals at any more risk than necessary. It will get you a quick answer to the, "is there oil at the lash adjuster" question w/o firing the engine.


    Ed
    Last edited by eschaider; 11-19-2019 at 11:21 AM.

  10. #23
    Senior Member Array 03yllwcobra's Avatar
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    It appears that I am getting oil to the lash adjusters. I bleed one down and try to get it to pump back up and it would not, at that point I decided to order some more adjusters. The problem seems to be limited to just the intake side though, I don't know if it has something to do with the adjust being smaller on the intake side versus the exhaust since they're GT500 heads.




  11. #24

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    Your idea of using the Peterson priming pump to test for oil delivery was an excellent one, Nick! Now that you know you are getting oil to the galleys, the fault appears to be old lash adjusters that have given up the ghost. A much preferred problem over any of the other alternatives. BTW that Peterson priming pump and remote filter gizmo while a bit pricey really earns its keep at times like this. Way cool product!

    When you get the new lifters they are essentially going to be be dry with a light coat of oil on the inside. Their internal spring should keep them in the fully expanded condition even without being filled with oil. That is important because it leaves the movable plunger in the center of the adjuster above the oil fill hole to the inside of the adjuster.

    Before you start the engine do a quick check on the Quality Audit clearance dimension in post #2 to make sure everything is in the right ballpark before you fire up the engine. Once you do, allow it to idle for a bit until the adjusters fill and take up that lash. The clatter should go away as the engine idles. Remember, after you replace the intake adjusters it will take a few moments for the new adjusters to fill and the valve train to quiet down so give them a moment to settle in.

    I think you are out of the weeds, now. Great detective work and even better execution.


    Ed

  12. #25
    Senior Member Array 03yllwcobra's Avatar
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    I’ve saw some people let the lash adjuster sit in oil for an hour or so before installing them, is that necessary or does it just help them pump up faster?

  13. #26

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    It doesn't hurt, Nick. The idea is to allow oil to seep inside the lifter so ir is lubed and also the oil pump has less work to do. The challenge is if you get the lifter filled with oil before you install it, you will need to slowly compress it in a vise to squeeze the oil out so you can install them in the heads. I think either way works, it just comes down to personal preferences.


    Ed

  14. #27
    Senior Member Array 03yllwcobra's Avatar
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    Here's a video after the new lifters and shims, there still a noise but you don't here the metallic ticking of the loose valve train. I can't tell if it's an exhaust leak or it just sounds like this because the straight downpipe


  15. #28

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    That is night and day better, Nick. That said, there is still a rhythmic metallic tapping sound that should not be there. An automotive stethoscope might be helpful in pinpointing it.


    Ed
    Last edited by eschaider; 12-04-2019 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Spelling and Grammar

  16. #29
    Senior Member Array 03yllwcobra's Avatar
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    I think this is finally over, I had to go back and add more shims. I guess I should have asked this before but are valve cover gaskets on these cars reusable? I think I've spent 300 bucks on gaskets as much as I've done this lol. I had to add a total of 4 shims to the passenger side and 5 on the drivers side. I really don't understand how it could be out like this. It has been like this the whole time before the thrust bearing got taken out. The car never cammed this hard to begin with and I knew it should. I guess thats what happens when you lose half your duration and lift. I don't know if the heads could be the issue or not they're 98 Cobra R pre-production heads. I'm still puzzled by this and would like to understand it more but I'm glad it's over for now.



  17. #30

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    I think you've finally got it, Nick. I would still use an automotive stethoscope just to make certain there are no adjusters that require a little additional loving. BTW the rocker cover gaskets are reusable.


    Ed

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