My new -16 Turbo Drains

+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1

    Default My new -16 Turbo Drains

    After a lot of difficulty I THINK I have a drain system that will work. This drain system eliminates the two different scavenge pumps I have tried (and failed to make work) and instead should allow the turbos to drain directly into the pan.

    I was told that my -10 setup was still too small and that I needed a -12 to have effective drainage. Well, if I'm going through all this hassle to weld bungs onto the oil pan while it's still in the car then I'm going a lot larger. I ended up with a -16 drain system that has a pretty decent drain angle right into the front of the pan for each turbo.

    I machined and welded -16 fittings onto 1" OD X .06" wall steel tubing extensions then welded the extensions to the front of the pan. Getting the welding tip between the top of the tubing and the pan flange was a ROYAL PITA and I am hoping I got it to seal.

    Then I made drain tubes from the bottom of the turbos to -16 fittings that connect to the pan extensions via -16 couplers which then connect to the tube extensions on the pan. As much as possible the ID is the same .87" all the way through to the pan, even at the bungs there is no step for oil to get trapped. Whenever possible I ground the welds on the I.D of the tubing with the die grinder then used a sanding scroll to make it as smooth as possible.

    As long as my welding doesn't leak I think this SHOULD work..


    Shown below: -10 drain and the -16 drain.
    Name:  IMG_2910.JPG
Views: 253
Size:  159.5 KB

    Name:  IMG_2911.jpg
Views: 246
Size:  42.8 KB

    Name:  IMG_2912.jpg
Views: 250
Size:  38.3 KB

  2. Remove Advertisements

  3. #2


    Very nice Kevin!
    I LOVE the “don’t have it, then make it” mentality you continue to share with us all!
    Great work! Hopefully that takes care of the drainage problem!


  4. #3


    Thanks Ken. Although I try to keep things simple/quick by buying parts, more often than not I seem to find limitations on purchased parts so if something is questionable, and I can make it better, I will go that route. Sometimes it's cheaper for me to make/modify it and sometimes it's more costly but usually when I'm done I feel the design is more in my favor.

    With this project I wasn't going to take a chance with -12 lines being large enough which only has approx. 3/4" ID. I also don't like braided lines near the exhaust pipes especially the ones feeding the turbos, those can get damn hot. Using -16 braided lines are huge so the only way I can keep the OD as small as possible and the ID as large as possible was to use steel tubing. Also, using hard lines allows me to form it away from the exhaust and exactly where I need it to go and it will stay put.

    Bending the tubing took some fab work also b/c a bender for 1" tubing is $400 or so. I ended up using a 3/4" conduit bender ($25) then clearancing the inside a bit to fit the 1" od I was using. The only drawback is that I was limited on the bend radius and it really wasn't as sharp as I wanted but again I made it work..I hope.

    Last edited by KEVINS; 12-27-2019 at 06:51 PM.

  5. Remove Advertisements

  6. #4


    Beautiful! I’m taking notes!

  7. #5


    Thought I’d post up my flanges I made today, Since I copied your idea I felt obligated to give you credit!
    Name:  82A24A64-43AF-4FDD-AE39-B90410B2ABD2_1584911450887.jpg
Views: 221
Size:  35.4 KBName:  5CC42922-7AE7-4D01-8E8A-061E1EB57166_1584911504554.jpg
Views: 213
Size:  48.4 KBName:  7AEA61BB-6C6E-4636-8C7C-0B4B84A902B9_1584911481423.jpg
Views: 219
Size:  31.3 KB

    The old drain was too close to the inlet for the hose clamp, so mine is extended 1 1/2”
    I used the same diameter pipe you did and welded to a 1/4” plate drilled for the mounting holes.

    The inlet is now .640 versus the old .590

  8. #6


    Excellent! Sometimes it takes some home fab work to make things a bit better..


  9. #7


    Slowly over the last few months I got it to a point where I could pressurized the crankcase then used soapy water to see if the welds leaked. Low and behold no bubbles!

    After the leak test passed I got it together this week but I put off running it until I was mentally prepared for failure. Well tonight was the night to see how things went. I let it run for about 30 minutes with the occasional 3500RPM rev to build up some heat and once the film burned off the exhaust and elsewhere I didn't see any oil smoke coming out the tailpipes! I think this is a success although only street testing will determine it.

    Currently the oil feed pressure to the turbos is regulated at 30psi at 3500rpm but I may lower it to 25psi later.

    Whew, but still crossing my fingers..

  10. #8


    Good luck on the street testing! Hope all goes well Kevin.


  11. #9


    Had some ups/downs giving false negatives during tests over the last week due to oil leaks dripping on the exhaust. So I made all new power steering lines and oil lines then tested in the garage again only to discover I forgot to tighten a power steering line which made another mess.

    With everything cleaned and tightened I went for several small drives today and so far so good!

    No boost runs but cruised around 50mph in 2nd gear for a few miles then did a 1st to 2nd gear 5000rpm pull (no boost) and so far so good. Seems to be a bit of smoke from somewhere but could be residue from inside the pipes or outside the pipes not not bad at all. So it's time to simply drive the car and put some miles on it.

    Still crossing my fingers!!


  12. Remove Advertisements

+ Reply to Thread