Manley 300M Pro Series I Beam Connecting Rods - Page 2

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  1. #16

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    Your point about the difficulty in removing pricing from the parts selection process is well made, Robert. Modular engine builders are fortunate to have a relatively wide range of very good component selections in the connecting rod category. With a rich field of superior product selections, the most important consideration becomes what you want and feel good about using. After that, the remainder of any discussion is simply rhetorical noise and artifact. My prediction is that you will be very happy with your selection.



    Ed

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  3. #17
    Senior Member Array cobraracer46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eschaider View Post
    I don't think anyone has critically reviewed your rods as inferior, Jan. If you like them that is excellent and it is all that is required for your purchase to be right for you. That however does not mean it is necessarily the best pick for everyone else. Your rods came to you at a fire sale price. It is significant that you did not previously buy them at full retail price. The obvious implication is that you either did not think they warranted the price or your budget did not provide for that type of component purchase — which goes to my perfect stereo story.

    I think it is great that you found a deal on a nice set of rods. That does not necessarily mean that the same set of rods, at their normal retail price point, would be a good choice for everyone else. In fact when you could have bought them at full retail, you chose not to. That speaks volumes to your unspoken but very real value assessment of the product.



    Ed
    I'll agree with you that one perfect rod that covers every situation simply does not exist. For example, In the Australian Super car series, the majority of the teams use a Carrillo H beam rod that is lighter than the Manley 300M I beam rod I will be using in my engine. However, the engine builder that supplies the majority of the supercar filed will milage out those Carrillo rods at 5K intervals thus trading longevity for lower reciprocating weight and faster engine response and this approach does not cause problems because the rods are regularly replaced. In My case, I can't afford to "milage out" major engine components like rods so from the beginning, my plan was to use the strongest rod possible and thus not worry about an engine failure later on. Now, I will say that in terms of the strongest "put it in there and forget about it" 4.6 Ford mod motor rod without having to worry about the price(or too crazy to care) is the Manley 300M I beam.

    Of corse cost is a consideration for most people and if that's case, then a Manley 4340 I beam rod or the Turbo Tuff H beams paired with the ARP 2000 bolts would be a better choice. I'm not immune to cost considerations either and while it would be nice to use a Bryant billet crank, the factory forged unit will work fine, so I'll spend my money elsewhere.

    As for not buying the 300M I beam rods with the ARP 625+ bolt optional the full retail price, I thought that the Manley 300M I beam rods were worth the cost and I decided a while back that I would be using that rod no matter what. But , I also knew that by the end of the year, the warehouse where I buy most of my go fast Mustang hardware from would offer some really good deals and they did so I bought a set.

  4. #18

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    All good rational reasons and reasoning, Jan. The most important litmus test though is, are you happy with the product and decision. To the extent I can assess that, I would have to say you are, so — that makes the product and purchase as right as is possible for you. I am certain (as I know you are also) that those rods will perform up to your expectations and then some.


    Ed

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